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All back to normal. Took my machinist a little time but said bores are perfectly straight so real happy about that.
They cleaned up perfect ! The small scratch looking lines are just from the dial bore gauge.
You have great attention to detail, of the attention to detail.
I missed the cross hatching, until you mentioned it, even though I know a properly honed cylinder would have a clear cross hatch finish.
Keep honing that attention to detail.
Crank going in but ran into snag with bolt one bolt. There is one of the oil pump bolts that the pump bolts to and is the larger 10 mm wide,they call it in the bolt discriptions stuff, cap bolt that I can’t seem to even get a part number for.
Strange that I don’t even remember this particular bolt lol and there is only one bolt this size as well. Can't even find it in a picture anywhere.
pistons coated with PC-9 and cylinder wall to skirt clearance right about where it should be….slightly more but it’s fine.I saved the pistons from replacement and cylinder walls are perfect so that’s ok with me if clearance isn’t on the tighter side of what is considered perfect.
Rings have to be installed in bores,measured and than filed to 25 thousands on the top and second rings and matched to each bore. Very very time consuming!
So after thinking about my piston to wall clearance I decided to waist even more time and mony LOL and send the pistons to a company called Line 2 Line.....yep right after I got them back from Swain Coatings.
They will recoat the skirts in a very hard but abradable coating that will form itself to the cylinder walls. My skirt mesurement was a little "iffy" and I wanted it perfect. The Line 2 Line coating will allow me to get a very tight piston to wall clearance and even tighter than what the piston manufacurer calls for so there will be minimal piston rock at BDC and TDC and I will sleep better with that. I plan to make more boost so this will help alot with ring seal longevity.
On a side note I have a pair of ported heads off the car with the spring cups and valves if anyone is interested. Also have ARP rod bolts used but great condition.
I decided to run a Hellcat throttle body but did not want the fire wall clearance issues so I cut the snout down very low and then welded the adapter plate on. Then hogged everything out including internal blockages in the snout.I also made an adapter to put my 82 or74 throttle back on in case I have a drivability issue and then I would not have to pull the blower off every time. Hopefully she will run fine like every one else’s.
All back together.The plate sitting on top will be my adapter plate I am working on to go back to a stock throttle body in the event there is some sort of drivability issue, then I will not have to pull the blower off to do the swap.
Not a pretty set up but at least I can get my intake tube right back in the stock location.
It was more work than I thought and had to weld a lot of extra material in order to grind the inlet hole bigger to match the gasket since I was breaking through every where on the snout. Still not as big as I wanted but big difference from where it was.
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I mean this in a good way...you are borderline insane! Your car is a beast! Even though I don't do the all-out mods anymore, I love this kind of stuff.
Could be as my wife looks at the car all apart in the garage and says "There's something wrong with you" LOL
My responce is....not my problem, you stood at the weding alter long ago and said "I Do" LOL
Hopefully I will not need to and it runs great but can quickly swap back and forth for diag if needed. My 82mm would throw an "implausable idle speed control" every now and again and even though it effected nothing I didnt need that at emission's inspection. Plus I can't stand any light on the dash on....looks tacky to me.
Since I am running bigger ring gaps I wanted to make sure I had plenty of crank case breathing. I used Motionworks valve cover breathers that will go into my catch can and then into the supercharger intake tube. I had a pretty good system but stepped it up a little for the hell of it. Of courseI have to screw with everything so that little bolt you see in front holds a better shield undernieth than can provided, in my opinon, excess oil from being sucked in under hard boost as there are two 5/8"" holes under the breather
On a side note the factory system that plumbs to the throttle body has a .020 hole in the valve cover on the passenger side which is incredibly small but shows how tight the ring gaps are from factory with no blow by.
Ok so pistons are back and all is well in Gary land lol !!
Top picture I am measuring the bore, you want to set the gauge to zero,than measure the piston,then take the caliper and measure the bore gauge and that reading on the gauge is now my piston to wall clearance….perfect at around 4 thousands. Much better than the 7 I had.
Pictures are out of order but you get the jest of it.
On a side note since I am looking to put down at least 750-800 to the tires and I have talked to some really sharp guys and we decided to have even better data to tune the car. It was felt that even though the engine was at a safe AFR it was was to lean so…….
I am going to run an EGT meter to log temperatures from each exhaust header pipe and see what cylinders are doing what and adjust the overall AFR from there.
It will be mounted in the car and is easily removed so I don’t have to see it all the time.
Now is it really needed….no, are these engines crazy expensive to build today,yep and I can’t afford an issue at 160 mph or more,I hope,next year going down the track.
I will post the sensors being installed soon.
I used them in my big block. Supposed to be super tight then wear in to a good clearance.
I like the breather idea. I guess I may have to pull the cam covers off to open that hole at the very least. I opened the rings a bit on the stock rebuild.
or maybe I could just finish the car and burn that bridge when I get to it.
I learned a mechanic trick back in the day. I didn’t like how all the oil and grease got under my fingernails, when servicing and wrenching, and was so hard to clean up. If you dig your fingers into a bar of soap, so that you get slivers of soap under your nails. Even when the slivers drop out, it will leave behind a film that will keep grit, dirt, grime, oil, and grease from getting in there. When you go to wash your hands at the end of your wrenching session, you will notice underneath your nails are clean.
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Making headway with EGT set up. Bungs are in and welded so now I just have to get them coated by either Jet hot or Bonehead Performance.The company that did them a couple years ago did a sheety job,redid them and still is flaking off. I have used Jet Hot but even those over years of use start to look chalky and dull over years of use.
Hey man....
That is what is on there right now and it comes right off after a while,few months, so the prep work must be wrong or the coating is no good for the heat.
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Even though I don't do the all-out mods anymore, I love this kind of stuff. 
