New CLS55 AMG Owner.....and needing HELP!
12-03-2021, 07:43 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
New CLS55 AMG Owner.....and needing HELP!
It was recommended to move my original post into the 211 thread since our cars are virtually the same and with hopes to get a little more reply's
Good Afternoon everyone, so as the title states i am new owner of a CLS55, a little about the car and the story of how i was able to get her. I found the car on cars.com from a mom and pop dealer near Lake Erie Ohio for price of just $6K with only 94K miles. So of course i had to call and get the details or what the catch was. After talking with the sales manager he told me that the car had been sitting for over a year, the transmission was removed due to not shifting correctly, trans leaks and who knows what else for a rebuild. There was a big story about the mechanic doing the work had passed away but ultimately the trans was just pulled out and nothing else done so she just sat. So I made the decision to leave a deposit and take the 580mile trip one way from Virginia Beach to OH. I get up there the car is pancaked out, and the air suspension is not coming on. There mechanic was able to use a Autel scanner to get the car back to normal ride height by airing up each shock individually through the scanner using a test feature. I received the car with the trans still out and a box of bolts and parts to include the trans and torque converter. One good note the cars body and interior are in great shape. Fingers crossed the engine is as well once running!!
I do all my own work on my cars and am much more fluent with BMW's, this is actually my first MB. I have just last night acquired a torrent copy of Xentry pass throu software, still in the process of the install and waiting for the OBD2 to come in. hopefully i can get it all to work with the car.
I have done my research but still looking for a couple answers in regards to my suspension and all things i should take care of while the trans is out.
First my air suspension is still not working, all suspension buttons in the center console stay lit while the ignition is on and do nothing when pressed. The entire passenger side has maintained its air but both driver front and rear have been leaking down. I have the car on a charger and when i popped the trunk yesterday after it sat charging overnight to check voltage all of a sudden the compressor cut on and the driver side started rising but for maybe 30-45sec (no key in the ignition just the truck opened up). This is making me think i have a issue at the valve block versus both bags leaking at the same rate. Will the air or should the air suspension work without the car running? Will the buttons work with the Transmission out? What do you all think?
Like I said before since the trans is out i plan on doing the routine maintenance things like the rear main seal, i also plan on buying the FCP Euro trans service kit with conductor plate and plug, Maybe a Sonnex kit for the valve body too. Is there anything else you all recommend i do since the trans is out. I read that the 722.6 is pretty stout but the pump can go bad. What do you all think about this? Should I at least replace the pump Oring and seal. Do you all think this is a good idea or not necessary? Are there any other trans seals i should be replacing? Also the torque converter is not factory, its panted blue. I have only seen torque converters this color remained by a companys on ebay called Recon Certified and Alliance, it is not a brand new TC so the internal condition and stall is unknown. I know i have a lot of unknowns and wish I could have trouble shot the car prior to the trans being pulled. Any and all suggestion on how i should go about doing this are much appreciated
With the flex plate not engaging with the starter i turned the car over via a flex plate tool i have and it did freely. Should the starter still engage with the flex plate with the TC and trans removed or would what im experiencing be common?
Can anyone provide me with a list of tools needed, manual to include torque specs and replacement items like bolts for reinstalling the transmission? Again i didn't remove it and its my first MB.
I really love the looks of this car and am looking forward to getting it all back together. I know she will have some gremlins I'll need to work out just from her sitting so long but i really cant wait to get her back on the road.
I really appreciate all the help and look forward to being a member on this forum.
Happy Holidays,
Mike
Good Afternoon everyone, so as the title states i am new owner of a CLS55, a little about the car and the story of how i was able to get her. I found the car on cars.com from a mom and pop dealer near Lake Erie Ohio for price of just $6K with only 94K miles. So of course i had to call and get the details or what the catch was. After talking with the sales manager he told me that the car had been sitting for over a year, the transmission was removed due to not shifting correctly, trans leaks and who knows what else for a rebuild. There was a big story about the mechanic doing the work had passed away but ultimately the trans was just pulled out and nothing else done so she just sat. So I made the decision to leave a deposit and take the 580mile trip one way from Virginia Beach to OH. I get up there the car is pancaked out, and the air suspension is not coming on. There mechanic was able to use a Autel scanner to get the car back to normal ride height by airing up each shock individually through the scanner using a test feature. I received the car with the trans still out and a box of bolts and parts to include the trans and torque converter. One good note the cars body and interior are in great shape. Fingers crossed the engine is as well once running!!
I do all my own work on my cars and am much more fluent with BMW's, this is actually my first MB. I have just last night acquired a torrent copy of Xentry pass throu software, still in the process of the install and waiting for the OBD2 to come in. hopefully i can get it all to work with the car.
I have done my research but still looking for a couple answers in regards to my suspension and all things i should take care of while the trans is out.
First my air suspension is still not working, all suspension buttons in the center console stay lit while the ignition is on and do nothing when pressed. The entire passenger side has maintained its air but both driver front and rear have been leaking down. I have the car on a charger and when i popped the trunk yesterday after it sat charging overnight to check voltage all of a sudden the compressor cut on and the driver side started rising but for maybe 30-45sec (no key in the ignition just the truck opened up). This is making me think i have a issue at the valve block versus both bags leaking at the same rate. Will the air or should the air suspension work without the car running? Will the buttons work with the Transmission out? What do you all think?
Like I said before since the trans is out i plan on doing the routine maintenance things like the rear main seal, i also plan on buying the FCP Euro trans service kit with conductor plate and plug, Maybe a Sonnex kit for the valve body too. Is there anything else you all recommend i do since the trans is out. I read that the 722.6 is pretty stout but the pump can go bad. What do you all think about this? Should I at least replace the pump Oring and seal. Do you all think this is a good idea or not necessary? Are there any other trans seals i should be replacing? Also the torque converter is not factory, its panted blue. I have only seen torque converters this color remained by a companys on ebay called Recon Certified and Alliance, it is not a brand new TC so the internal condition and stall is unknown. I know i have a lot of unknowns and wish I could have trouble shot the car prior to the trans being pulled. Any and all suggestion on how i should go about doing this are much appreciated
With the flex plate not engaging with the starter i turned the car over via a flex plate tool i have and it did freely. Should the starter still engage with the flex plate with the TC and trans removed or would what im experiencing be common?
Can anyone provide me with a list of tools needed, manual to include torque specs and replacement items like bolts for reinstalling the transmission? Again i didn't remove it and its my first MB.
I really love the looks of this car and am looking forward to getting it all back together. I know she will have some gremlins I'll need to work out just from her sitting so long but i really cant wait to get her back on the road.
I really appreciate all the help and look forward to being a member on this forum.
Happy Holidays,
Mike
12-03-2021, 09:55 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
@E55Greasemonkey Mechanical abilities..... there is not anything i cant do on a car. I have built anything from vintage hot rods from the ground up to BMW's, motorcycles and dirtbikes. Engine, transmission and differential tear down and rebuilds, ETC. I am an enthusiast to say the least and have a love affair with the automobile. However like i stated originally this is my first MB and when it comes to Euro vehicles i am more experienced with BMW's and some VW's. I'm really looking for insight on the things im experiencing as stated above. What all i should be replacing in the trans prior to reinstalling it. Some type of directions in regards to bolt order for the bellhousing to engine block, torque specs, recommended bolt replacement and specialized tools i might need. I am still attempting to download Xentry Passthru, i think i have a handle on that now but dont have WIS yet.
Thanks for the reply
Thanks for the reply
12-03-2021, 10:32 AM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: America
Posts: 2,361
Received 179 Likes
on
146 Posts
1999 C43 AMG, 2005 E55 Wagon
I would have happily paid that for the car, knowing it's a gamble that the motor could be bad but I doubt it. These motors, if left unmodified, are very reliable and stout. If the car has factory exhaust and pulley then it's likely not modified. Meaning really your only problems here are sorting out the trans and airmatic.
First, I would get the trans sorted and figure out airmatic last. No point chasing airmatic without an otherwise functioning car.
Drop the pan and check for crud/metal in the bottom of the pan. Sounds like you know what to look out for. Drop the valve body and do the conductor plate, this is a common 722.6 failure that happens when they are around 10 years old and a bunch of people were incorrectly told "you need a rebuild or new trans" when they really just needed the $200 conductor plate done. Google it, there are youtube videos explaining it very thoroughly. Conductor plate, filter, gasket, seal, and put it in the car. Test the starter with 12v first to make sure it hasn't died in this process. Don't get a "reman" and only get Bosch OEM. Pricey, but will outlast the car.
Put the trans back in and get the car running. If the trans and TC are completely dry of fluid I think it takes a TON, like 12 quarts? I'm sure that info is out there. With engine at 80c fill it 1-2 quarts at a time via the fill tube behind the passenger side surge tank. You probably already know how to slowly fill an automatic with fluid.
Tools:
I don't know of anything specific since I haven't had to pull a 722.6 out of my cars (I service them in the car). You'll need a 10mm, 13mm, 8mm (for plastic splash guards), but I forget which torx bits you'll need to drop the trans pan and valve body. Be careful not to strip the torx heads on the valve body. Even being careful and using a quality bit I've stripped 2 of them before.
Once trans is in and engine is running, you can then start the car and try to find out what's up with the airmatic. Probably a slow leak that let the car collapse over the year that it sat. Can't begin to discuss this issue until it's narrowed down. I love the airmatic and I hate the idea of spending $1200 to rip it all out and replace with coilovers. I prefer to just spend a little more and redo all my airmatic to maintain the softer ride and sport 1, sport 2 options. Contrary to what a salesman my say, no it's NOT NORMAL that "these cars settle over time and rise back up when you start them." Properly functioning airmatic never lowers as the car sits. That's always indicative of air escaping when it shouldn't be (leak or failed valve, etc).
First, I would get the trans sorted and figure out airmatic last. No point chasing airmatic without an otherwise functioning car.
Drop the pan and check for crud/metal in the bottom of the pan. Sounds like you know what to look out for. Drop the valve body and do the conductor plate, this is a common 722.6 failure that happens when they are around 10 years old and a bunch of people were incorrectly told "you need a rebuild or new trans" when they really just needed the $200 conductor plate done. Google it, there are youtube videos explaining it very thoroughly. Conductor plate, filter, gasket, seal, and put it in the car. Test the starter with 12v first to make sure it hasn't died in this process. Don't get a "reman" and only get Bosch OEM. Pricey, but will outlast the car.
Put the trans back in and get the car running. If the trans and TC are completely dry of fluid I think it takes a TON, like 12 quarts? I'm sure that info is out there. With engine at 80c fill it 1-2 quarts at a time via the fill tube behind the passenger side surge tank. You probably already know how to slowly fill an automatic with fluid.
Tools:
I don't know of anything specific since I haven't had to pull a 722.6 out of my cars (I service them in the car). You'll need a 10mm, 13mm, 8mm (for plastic splash guards), but I forget which torx bits you'll need to drop the trans pan and valve body. Be careful not to strip the torx heads on the valve body. Even being careful and using a quality bit I've stripped 2 of them before.
Once trans is in and engine is running, you can then start the car and try to find out what's up with the airmatic. Probably a slow leak that let the car collapse over the year that it sat. Can't begin to discuss this issue until it's narrowed down. I love the airmatic and I hate the idea of spending $1200 to rip it all out and replace with coilovers. I prefer to just spend a little more and redo all my airmatic to maintain the softer ride and sport 1, sport 2 options. Contrary to what a salesman my say, no it's NOT NORMAL that "these cars settle over time and rise back up when you start them." Properly functioning airmatic never lowers as the car sits. That's always indicative of air escaping when it shouldn't be (leak or failed valve, etc).
The following users liked this post:
AhEmGee (12-05-2021)
12-03-2021, 12:22 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
@Sulaco Thanks for that lengthy reply. I definitely did my research about the 722.6 trans prior to buying and learned about the conductor plate and plug. I have recently found videos of the trans oil pump going bad, the pump seal causing leaks or the pump bearing/bushing spinning loose then causing leaks. I'm not sure how common that is but something ill take a look at. Like i said ill also do the Sonnex kits on the valve body and shift kit as well.
The questions in regards to the engine not spinning over: so the starter does turn over and stays running when the key is turned to the full on position in an attempt to start the car. What my car is doing is only engaging the flex plate for a split second then all you hear is the starter still spinning until you turn the key off. Its a symptom im familiar with if the starter is not shimmed correctly to the flexplate or flywheel. i was just curious if the alignment would be off considering the TC and trans are removed.
The car is completely stock.
Thanks again for the reply
The questions in regards to the engine not spinning over: so the starter does turn over and stays running when the key is turned to the full on position in an attempt to start the car. What my car is doing is only engaging the flex plate for a split second then all you hear is the starter still spinning until you turn the key off. Its a symptom im familiar with if the starter is not shimmed correctly to the flexplate or flywheel. i was just curious if the alignment would be off considering the TC and trans are removed.
The car is completely stock.
Thanks again for the reply
12-03-2021, 12:42 PM
#6
Senior Member
@Sulaco Thanks for that lengthy reply. I definitely did my research about the 722.6 trans prior to buying and learned about the conductor plate and plug. I have recently found videos of the trans oil pump going bad, the pump seal causing leaks or the pump bearing/bushing spinning loose then causing leaks. I'm not sure how common that is but something ill take a look at. Like i said ill also do the Sonnex kits on the valve body and shift kit as well.
The questions in regards to the engine not spinning over: so the starter does turn over and stays running when the key is turned to the full on position in an attempt to start the car. What my car is doing is only engaging the flex plate for a split second then all you hear is the starter still spinning until you turn the key off. Its a symptom im familiar with if the starter is not shimmed correctly to the flexplate or flywheel. i was just curious if the alignment would be off considering the TC and trans are removed.
The car is completely stock.
Thanks again for the reply
The questions in regards to the engine not spinning over: so the starter does turn over and stays running when the key is turned to the full on position in an attempt to start the car. What my car is doing is only engaging the flex plate for a split second then all you hear is the starter still spinning until you turn the key off. Its a symptom im familiar with if the starter is not shimmed correctly to the flexplate or flywheel. i was just curious if the alignment would be off considering the TC and trans are removed.
The car is completely stock.
Thanks again for the reply
The following users liked this post:
AhEmGee (12-05-2021)
12-03-2021, 12:47 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
@MJBelcher500 thanks for the reply and saving me the time and money, is this due to the AMG programing for the TCU versus the regular models?
Trending Topics
12-03-2021, 12:51 PM
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 971
Likes: 0
Received 239 Likes
on
200 Posts
2006 CLS55 AMG, 2005 SLK 350 AMG
Don't install a "shift kit". From what I understand, the ones that are commonly available for the 722.6 do not work in the AMG transmissions and will cause a number of problems when installed. I have recently installed the Sonnax shift overlap valve sleeve kit and that went well and worked correctly.
Last edited by machild; 12-03-2021 at 12:53 PM.
12-03-2021, 12:53 PM
#9
Senior Member
@MJBelcher500 thanks for the reply and saving me the time and money, is this due to the AMG programing for the TCU versus the regular models?
12-03-2021, 01:03 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
@machild i will take a look at the website, thanks for the reply
@MJBelcher500 huh, ok well again thanks for that heads up. Between you and machild responses it seems like the reprogrammed TCU would be a better option
@MJBelcher500 huh, ok well again thanks for that heads up. Between you and machild responses it seems like the reprogrammed TCU would be a better option
12-03-2021, 10:13 PM
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 3,324
Received 977 Likes
on
760 Posts
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
It was recommended to move my original post into the 211 thread since our cars are virtually the same and with hopes to get a little more reply's.
Correct. Same cars but with different sheet metal and interiors. In STAR, same diagnostics. Looking forward to having you as a contributing member posting DIYs.
I do all my own work on my cars and am much more fluent with BMW's, this is actually my first MB. I have just last night acquired a torrent copy of Xentry pass throu software, still in the process of the install and waiting for the OBD2 to come in. hopefully i can get it all to work with the car.
Good, as it will be a steep learning curve. Save yourself time, money, and trouble and contact BenzNinja via PM and sign up with him for tech support. He'll set you up with STAR/Xentry, WIS (Workshop Information System) which provides mechanical and tech specs/values, STAR Finder to help you locate modules on the car, etc. Bookmark mbepc.net on your computer and use it! Search by VIN to obtain your vehicle's data card, hit the hyperlink in the initial description box up top and it will take you to the parts used in the build of your car to include initial parts install and then upgraded/modified parts numbers.
I have done my research but still looking for a couple answers in regards to my suspension and all things i should take care of while the trans is out.
Here is where I picture Yoda telling you to be one with the force and feel the power. Take care of the transmission first. Leave the car stock while you figure out the issues and correct them. Then, and only then, plan on modifying the car. WIS is not very useful once you begin adding aftermarket modifications.
With the flex plate not engaging with the starter i turned the car over via a flex plate tool i have and it did freely. Should the starter still engage with the flex plate with the TC and trans removed or would what im experiencing be common?
I cannot advise on this having not dealt with it before. Listen to the others' advice on this sub-forum.
Like I said before since the trans is out i plan on doing the routine maintenance things like the rear main seal, i also plan on buying the FCP Euro trans service kit with conductor plate and plug, Maybe a Sonnex kit for the valve body too. Is there anything else you all recommend i do since the trans is out. I read that the 722.6 is pretty stout but the pump can go bad. What do you all think about this? Should I at least replace the pump Oring and seal. Do you all think this is a good idea or not necessary? Are there any other trans seals i should be replacing? Also the torque converter is not factory, its panted blue. I have only seen torque converters this color remained by a companys on ebay called Recon Certified and Alliance, it is not a brand new TC so the internal condition and stall is unknown. I know i have a lot of unknowns and wish I could have trouble shot the car prior to the trans being pulled. Any and all suggestion on how i should go about doing this are much appreciated
The rear main seal is NOT "routine maintenance". Requires removal of the plate that holds the rear main seal, scrupulous cleaning and no gouging of the surfaces, special MB sealant, and a special tool to reinsert the rear main seal. E55GreaseMonkey has a post on this; he's performed a couple of hundred or more but if it were me, I would fly him to San Antonio and put him up in a fine hotel on the Riverwalk in exchange for guiding me through the first time replacement of a rear main seal on the M113 engine. Me? I'd rebuild the transmission through a company such as Southern Hot Rod(?). Even at $4K to $5K you are still at least five to ten thousand under what I would have been willing to pay for the car if in fully running condition. Again, return it as close to stock as possible. FWIW, my '99 M113 with >160K miles leaves ~1 drop of oil on the garage floor every month. My '05 M113K with >207K miles leaves not a drop on the floor although the underside of the bell housing is wet.
Can anyone provide me with a list of tools needed, manual to include torque specs and replacement items like bolts for reinstalling the transmission? Again i didn't remove it and its my first MB.
Internal Torx bits, size T4 through T55. External Torx bits, size T8 through T50. If working on the rear suspension, Triple-square bits for the internal suspension mount and 3/8" or 1/2" socket 10mm and 12mm allen head bits. Solar BA-50 battery tester as the W211/W219 are power hogs; basically a distributed micro-processor controlled network carried around by a supercharged V8 engine. If you have not done so yet, replace both main and emergency backup battery; keep the main battery charged with a battery tender 'til you get the car running. Low battery voltage plays havoc with the computer system. FWIW, you can pull up the bus voltage on the instrument cluster; I won't tell you how to do it but you can find it on Youtube and on post on this sub-forum. Handy little tool. Think of it as an exercise in finding an "Easter Egg".
WIS will provide you the torque specs and schematics; be sure to read the notes as there are quirks such as the hubs on the non-AMG uses 12mm bolts while 14mm Grade 10.9 bolts are used on the AMG. Tremendous differences in torque values! Additionally, do NOT, do NOT, do NOT, confuse the electrical harness of the non-AMG with the AMG harness. Multiple differences about which I have posted.
Key points:
-Fuel system electrical relays is one of the weakest points on this car. '03-'05 suffered the most, '06 finally went to a modified dual-relay system that reduced failures. That fuel system failure would put one on the side of the road in rush-hour traffic on an elevated expressway and not throw a code. No need to ask me how I learned.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...intenance.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ify-parts.html
(Go to Post #29 and compare part numbers on the fuel pumps [passenger side] and fuel filter/regulator [driver side] with the latest numbers in the parts list. Remove rear seat by depressing the tab on passenger and driver's side on the bottom of th rear seat. Remove metal covers over fuel pumps and filter/regulator, observe part numbers. If the first ones in the list, possibly never changed and that is bad. BTW, it will cost ~$1000 dollars for the pumps, filter/regulator, O-ring seals, and the two adapter cables. Replace every 60,000 miles or so or however trusting you are in your ability and your car. First and second generation fuel filter/regulators [three generations] are NOT compatible with the second generation fuel pumps [two generations] due to different mechanical connections in the fuel tank and modified electrical harness to the car's OEM harness which is the reason for the two adapter cables. ) AMG fuel pumps and filter/regulators are NOT compatible with non-AMG W211 vehicles! Remember, AMG = All Money Gone.
-Brakes
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post8444437
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7160126
Electrical fuses and relays
-https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/486278-w211-fuses-relays-sam-modules-chart.html
Read the entire thread and pay attention. Discusses differences between the AMG and non-AMG harnesses. My post #20 should be of particular interest to you but I give great credit to Kropf for his efforts in building the database. He did fantastic work.
Maintenance and checks, sensor locations, services
-See attachments
PM me your email address and I can send you several tens of megabytes of technical data on the car to assist you learning it.
EDIT: If you do not have service history on the car, so long as it was maintained by a dealer, competent independent, or competent private owner, you can pull the service history out of the CGW (Central GateWay) using STAR and ASSYST PLUS. I've posted on this in the stickies.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7250102
Correct. Same cars but with different sheet metal and interiors. In STAR, same diagnostics. Looking forward to having you as a contributing member posting DIYs.
I do all my own work on my cars and am much more fluent with BMW's, this is actually my first MB. I have just last night acquired a torrent copy of Xentry pass throu software, still in the process of the install and waiting for the OBD2 to come in. hopefully i can get it all to work with the car.
Good, as it will be a steep learning curve. Save yourself time, money, and trouble and contact BenzNinja via PM and sign up with him for tech support. He'll set you up with STAR/Xentry, WIS (Workshop Information System) which provides mechanical and tech specs/values, STAR Finder to help you locate modules on the car, etc. Bookmark mbepc.net on your computer and use it! Search by VIN to obtain your vehicle's data card, hit the hyperlink in the initial description box up top and it will take you to the parts used in the build of your car to include initial parts install and then upgraded/modified parts numbers.
I have done my research but still looking for a couple answers in regards to my suspension and all things i should take care of while the trans is out.
Here is where I picture Yoda telling you to be one with the force and feel the power. Take care of the transmission first. Leave the car stock while you figure out the issues and correct them. Then, and only then, plan on modifying the car. WIS is not very useful once you begin adding aftermarket modifications.With the flex plate not engaging with the starter i turned the car over via a flex plate tool i have and it did freely. Should the starter still engage with the flex plate with the TC and trans removed or would what im experiencing be common?
I cannot advise on this having not dealt with it before. Listen to the others' advice on this sub-forum.
Like I said before since the trans is out i plan on doing the routine maintenance things like the rear main seal, i also plan on buying the FCP Euro trans service kit with conductor plate and plug, Maybe a Sonnex kit for the valve body too. Is there anything else you all recommend i do since the trans is out. I read that the 722.6 is pretty stout but the pump can go bad. What do you all think about this? Should I at least replace the pump Oring and seal. Do you all think this is a good idea or not necessary? Are there any other trans seals i should be replacing? Also the torque converter is not factory, its panted blue. I have only seen torque converters this color remained by a companys on ebay called Recon Certified and Alliance, it is not a brand new TC so the internal condition and stall is unknown. I know i have a lot of unknowns and wish I could have trouble shot the car prior to the trans being pulled. Any and all suggestion on how i should go about doing this are much appreciated
The rear main seal is NOT "routine maintenance". Requires removal of the plate that holds the rear main seal, scrupulous cleaning and no gouging of the surfaces, special MB sealant, and a special tool to reinsert the rear main seal. E55GreaseMonkey has a post on this; he's performed a couple of hundred or more but if it were me, I would fly him to San Antonio and put him up in a fine hotel on the Riverwalk in exchange for guiding me through the first time replacement of a rear main seal on the M113 engine. Me? I'd rebuild the transmission through a company such as Southern Hot Rod(?). Even at $4K to $5K you are still at least five to ten thousand under what I would have been willing to pay for the car if in fully running condition. Again, return it as close to stock as possible. FWIW, my '99 M113 with >160K miles leaves ~1 drop of oil on the garage floor every month. My '05 M113K with >207K miles leaves not a drop on the floor although the underside of the bell housing is wet.
Can anyone provide me with a list of tools needed, manual to include torque specs and replacement items like bolts for reinstalling the transmission? Again i didn't remove it and its my first MB.
Internal Torx bits, size T4 through T55. External Torx bits, size T8 through T50. If working on the rear suspension, Triple-square bits for the internal suspension mount and 3/8" or 1/2" socket 10mm and 12mm allen head bits. Solar BA-50 battery tester as the W211/W219 are power hogs; basically a distributed micro-processor controlled network carried around by a supercharged V8 engine. If you have not done so yet, replace both main and emergency backup battery; keep the main battery charged with a battery tender 'til you get the car running. Low battery voltage plays havoc with the computer system. FWIW, you can pull up the bus voltage on the instrument cluster; I won't tell you how to do it but you can find it on Youtube and on post on this sub-forum. Handy little tool. Think of it as an exercise in finding an "Easter Egg".
WIS will provide you the torque specs and schematics; be sure to read the notes as there are quirks such as the hubs on the non-AMG uses 12mm bolts while 14mm Grade 10.9 bolts are used on the AMG. Tremendous differences in torque values! Additionally, do NOT, do NOT, do NOT, confuse the electrical harness of the non-AMG with the AMG harness. Multiple differences about which I have posted.
Key points:
-Fuel system electrical relays is one of the weakest points on this car. '03-'05 suffered the most, '06 finally went to a modified dual-relay system that reduced failures. That fuel system failure would put one on the side of the road in rush-hour traffic on an elevated expressway and not throw a code. No need to ask me how I learned.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...intenance.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ify-parts.html
(Go to Post #29 and compare part numbers on the fuel pumps [passenger side] and fuel filter/regulator [driver side] with the latest numbers in the parts list. Remove rear seat by depressing the tab on passenger and driver's side on the bottom of th rear seat. Remove metal covers over fuel pumps and filter/regulator, observe part numbers. If the first ones in the list, possibly never changed and that is bad. BTW, it will cost ~$1000 dollars for the pumps, filter/regulator, O-ring seals, and the two adapter cables. Replace every 60,000 miles or so or however trusting you are in your ability and your car. First and second generation fuel filter/regulators [three generations] are NOT compatible with the second generation fuel pumps [two generations] due to different mechanical connections in the fuel tank and modified electrical harness to the car's OEM harness which is the reason for the two adapter cables. ) AMG fuel pumps and filter/regulators are NOT compatible with non-AMG W211 vehicles! Remember, AMG = All Money Gone.
-Brakes
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post8444437
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7160126
Electrical fuses and relays
-https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/486278-w211-fuses-relays-sam-modules-chart.html
Read the entire thread and pay attention. Discusses differences between the AMG and non-AMG harnesses. My post #20 should be of particular interest to you but I give great credit to Kropf for his efforts in building the database. He did fantastic work.
Maintenance and checks, sensor locations, services
-See attachments
PM me your email address and I can send you several tens of megabytes of technical data on the car to assist you learning it.
EDIT: If you do not have service history on the car, so long as it was maintained by a dealer, competent independent, or competent private owner, you can pull the service history out of the CGW (Central GateWay) using STAR and ASSYST PLUS. I've posted on this in the stickies.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7250102
Last edited by bbirdwell; 12-03-2021 at 10:50 PM.
12-03-2021, 11:36 PM
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Barry that write up you did in the PDF file is really good. To the point and something everyone should read before and after buying an E55.
You should post this in its own thread and have the mods sticky it on the main W211AMG topic page.
You should post this in its own thread and have the mods sticky it on the main W211AMG topic page.
The following users liked this post:
bbirdwell (12-04-2021)
12-04-2021, 05:11 PM
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
It was recommended to move my original post into the 211 thread since our cars are virtually the same and with hopes to get a little more reply's.
Correct. Same cars but with different sheet metal and interiors. In STAR, same diagnostics. Looking forward to having you as a contributing member posting DIYs.
I do all my own work on my cars and am much more fluent with BMW's, this is actually my first MB. I have just last night acquired a torrent copy of Xentry pass throu software, still in the process of the install and waiting for the OBD2 to come in. hopefully i can get it all to work with the car.
Good, as it will be a steep learning curve. Save yourself time, money, and trouble and contact BenzNinja via PM and sign up with him for tech support. He'll set you up with STAR/Xentry, WIS (Workshop Information System) which provides mechanical and tech specs/values, STAR Finder to help you locate modules on the car, etc. Bookmark mbepc.net on your computer and use it! Search by VIN to obtain your vehicle's data card, hit the hyperlink in the initial description box up top and it will take you to the parts used in the build of your car to include initial parts install and then upgraded/modified parts numbers.
I have done my research but still looking for a couple answers in regards to my suspension and all things i should take care of while the trans is out.
Here is where I picture Yoda telling you to be one with the force and feel the power. Take care of the transmission first. Leave the car stock while you figure out the issues and correct them. Then, and only then, plan on modifying the car. WIS is not very useful once you begin adding aftermarket modifications.
With the flex plate not engaging with the starter i turned the car over via a flex plate tool i have and it did freely. Should the starter still engage with the flex plate with the TC and trans removed or would what im experiencing be common?
I cannot advise on this having not dealt with it before. Listen to the others' advice on this sub-forum.
Like I said before since the trans is out i plan on doing the routine maintenance things like the rear main seal, i also plan on buying the FCP Euro trans service kit with conductor plate and plug, Maybe a Sonnex kit for the valve body too. Is there anything else you all recommend i do since the trans is out. I read that the 722.6 is pretty stout but the pump can go bad. What do you all think about this? Should I at least replace the pump Oring and seal. Do you all think this is a good idea or not necessary? Are there any other trans seals i should be replacing? Also the torque converter is not factory, its panted blue. I have only seen torque converters this color remained by a companys on ebay called Recon Certified and Alliance, it is not a brand new TC so the internal condition and stall is unknown. I know i have a lot of unknowns and wish I could have trouble shot the car prior to the trans being pulled. Any and all suggestion on how i should go about doing this are much appreciated
The rear main seal is NOT "routine maintenance". Requires removal of the plate that holds the rear main seal, scrupulous cleaning and no gouging of the surfaces, special MB sealant, and a special tool to reinsert the rear main seal. E55GreaseMonkey has a post on this; he's performed a couple of hundred or more but if it were me, I would fly him to San Antonio and put him up in a fine hotel on the Riverwalk in exchange for guiding me through the first time replacement of a rear main seal on the M113 engine. Me? I'd rebuild the transmission through a company such as Southern Hot Rod(?). Even at $4K to $5K you are still at least five to ten thousand under what I would have been willing to pay for the car if in fully running condition. Again, return it as close to stock as possible. FWIW, my '99 M113 with >160K miles leaves ~1 drop of oil on the garage floor every month. My '05 M113K with >207K miles leaves not a drop on the floor although the underside of the bell housing is wet.
Can anyone provide me with a list of tools needed, manual to include torque specs and replacement items like bolts for reinstalling the transmission? Again i didn't remove it and its my first MB.
Internal Torx bits, size T4 through T55. External Torx bits, size T8 through T50. If working on the rear suspension, Triple-square bits for the internal suspension mount and 3/8" or 1/2" socket 10mm and 12mm allen head bits. Solar BA-50 battery tester as the W211/W219 are power hogs; basically a distributed micro-processor controlled network carried around by a supercharged V8 engine. If you have not done so yet, replace both main and emergency backup battery; keep the main battery charged with a battery tender 'til you get the car running. Low battery voltage plays havoc with the computer system. FWIW, you can pull up the bus voltage on the instrument cluster; I won't tell you how to do it but you can find it on Youtube and on post on this sub-forum. Handy little tool. Think of it as an exercise in finding an "Easter Egg".
WIS will provide you the torque specs and schematics; be sure to read the notes as there are quirks such as the hubs on the non-AMG uses 12mm bolts while 14mm Grade 10.9 bolts are used on the AMG. Tremendous differences in torque values! Additionally, do NOT, do NOT, do NOT, confuse the electrical harness of the non-AMG with the AMG harness. Multiple differences about which I have posted.
Key points:
-Fuel system electrical relays is one of the weakest points on this car. '03-'05 suffered the most, '06 finally went to a modified dual-relay system that reduced failures. That fuel system failure would put one on the side of the road in rush-hour traffic on an elevated expressway and not throw a code. No need to ask me how I learned.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...intenance.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ify-parts.html
(Go to Post #29 and compare part numbers on the fuel pumps [passenger side] and fuel filter/regulator [driver side] with the latest numbers in the parts list. Remove rear seat by depressing the tab on passenger and driver's side on the bottom of th rear seat. Remove metal covers over fuel pumps and filter/regulator, observe part numbers. If the first ones in the list, possibly never changed and that is bad. BTW, it will cost ~$1000 dollars for the pumps, filter/regulator, O-ring seals, and the two adapter cables. Replace every 60,000 miles or so or however trusting you are in your ability and your car. First and second generation fuel filter/regulators [three generations] are NOT compatible with the second generation fuel pumps [two generations] due to different mechanical connections in the fuel tank and modified electrical harness to the car's OEM harness which is the reason for the two adapter cables. ) AMG fuel pumps and filter/regulators are NOT compatible with non-AMG W211 vehicles! Remember, AMG = All Money Gone.
-Brakes
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post8444437
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7160126
Electrical fuses and relays
-https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/486278-w211-fuses-relays-sam-modules-chart.html
Read the entire thread and pay attention. Discusses differences between the AMG and non-AMG harnesses. My post #20 should be of particular interest to you but I give great credit to Kropf for his efforts in building the database. He did fantastic work.
Maintenance and checks, sensor locations, services
-See attachments
PM me your email address and I can send you several tens of megabytes of technical data on the car to assist you learning it.
EDIT: If you do not have service history on the car, so long as it was maintained by a dealer, competent independent, or competent private owner, you can pull the service history out of the CGW (Central GateWay) using STAR and ASSYST PLUS. I've posted on this in the stickies.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7250102
Correct. Same cars but with different sheet metal and interiors. In STAR, same diagnostics. Looking forward to having you as a contributing member posting DIYs.
I do all my own work on my cars and am much more fluent with BMW's, this is actually my first MB. I have just last night acquired a torrent copy of Xentry pass throu software, still in the process of the install and waiting for the OBD2 to come in. hopefully i can get it all to work with the car.
Good, as it will be a steep learning curve. Save yourself time, money, and trouble and contact BenzNinja via PM and sign up with him for tech support. He'll set you up with STAR/Xentry, WIS (Workshop Information System) which provides mechanical and tech specs/values, STAR Finder to help you locate modules on the car, etc. Bookmark mbepc.net on your computer and use it! Search by VIN to obtain your vehicle's data card, hit the hyperlink in the initial description box up top and it will take you to the parts used in the build of your car to include initial parts install and then upgraded/modified parts numbers.
I have done my research but still looking for a couple answers in regards to my suspension and all things i should take care of while the trans is out.
Here is where I picture Yoda telling you to be one with the force and feel the power. Take care of the transmission first. Leave the car stock while you figure out the issues and correct them. Then, and only then, plan on modifying the car. WIS is not very useful once you begin adding aftermarket modifications.With the flex plate not engaging with the starter i turned the car over via a flex plate tool i have and it did freely. Should the starter still engage with the flex plate with the TC and trans removed or would what im experiencing be common?
I cannot advise on this having not dealt with it before. Listen to the others' advice on this sub-forum.
Like I said before since the trans is out i plan on doing the routine maintenance things like the rear main seal, i also plan on buying the FCP Euro trans service kit with conductor plate and plug, Maybe a Sonnex kit for the valve body too. Is there anything else you all recommend i do since the trans is out. I read that the 722.6 is pretty stout but the pump can go bad. What do you all think about this? Should I at least replace the pump Oring and seal. Do you all think this is a good idea or not necessary? Are there any other trans seals i should be replacing? Also the torque converter is not factory, its panted blue. I have only seen torque converters this color remained by a companys on ebay called Recon Certified and Alliance, it is not a brand new TC so the internal condition and stall is unknown. I know i have a lot of unknowns and wish I could have trouble shot the car prior to the trans being pulled. Any and all suggestion on how i should go about doing this are much appreciated
The rear main seal is NOT "routine maintenance". Requires removal of the plate that holds the rear main seal, scrupulous cleaning and no gouging of the surfaces, special MB sealant, and a special tool to reinsert the rear main seal. E55GreaseMonkey has a post on this; he's performed a couple of hundred or more but if it were me, I would fly him to San Antonio and put him up in a fine hotel on the Riverwalk in exchange for guiding me through the first time replacement of a rear main seal on the M113 engine. Me? I'd rebuild the transmission through a company such as Southern Hot Rod(?). Even at $4K to $5K you are still at least five to ten thousand under what I would have been willing to pay for the car if in fully running condition. Again, return it as close to stock as possible. FWIW, my '99 M113 with >160K miles leaves ~1 drop of oil on the garage floor every month. My '05 M113K with >207K miles leaves not a drop on the floor although the underside of the bell housing is wet.
Can anyone provide me with a list of tools needed, manual to include torque specs and replacement items like bolts for reinstalling the transmission? Again i didn't remove it and its my first MB.
Internal Torx bits, size T4 through T55. External Torx bits, size T8 through T50. If working on the rear suspension, Triple-square bits for the internal suspension mount and 3/8" or 1/2" socket 10mm and 12mm allen head bits. Solar BA-50 battery tester as the W211/W219 are power hogs; basically a distributed micro-processor controlled network carried around by a supercharged V8 engine. If you have not done so yet, replace both main and emergency backup battery; keep the main battery charged with a battery tender 'til you get the car running. Low battery voltage plays havoc with the computer system. FWIW, you can pull up the bus voltage on the instrument cluster; I won't tell you how to do it but you can find it on Youtube and on post on this sub-forum. Handy little tool. Think of it as an exercise in finding an "Easter Egg".
WIS will provide you the torque specs and schematics; be sure to read the notes as there are quirks such as the hubs on the non-AMG uses 12mm bolts while 14mm Grade 10.9 bolts are used on the AMG. Tremendous differences in torque values! Additionally, do NOT, do NOT, do NOT, confuse the electrical harness of the non-AMG with the AMG harness. Multiple differences about which I have posted.
Key points:
-Fuel system electrical relays is one of the weakest points on this car. '03-'05 suffered the most, '06 finally went to a modified dual-relay system that reduced failures. That fuel system failure would put one on the side of the road in rush-hour traffic on an elevated expressway and not throw a code. No need to ask me how I learned.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...intenance.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ify-parts.html
(Go to Post #29 and compare part numbers on the fuel pumps [passenger side] and fuel filter/regulator [driver side] with the latest numbers in the parts list. Remove rear seat by depressing the tab on passenger and driver's side on the bottom of th rear seat. Remove metal covers over fuel pumps and filter/regulator, observe part numbers. If the first ones in the list, possibly never changed and that is bad. BTW, it will cost ~$1000 dollars for the pumps, filter/regulator, O-ring seals, and the two adapter cables. Replace every 60,000 miles or so or however trusting you are in your ability and your car. First and second generation fuel filter/regulators [three generations] are NOT compatible with the second generation fuel pumps [two generations] due to different mechanical connections in the fuel tank and modified electrical harness to the car's OEM harness which is the reason for the two adapter cables. ) AMG fuel pumps and filter/regulators are NOT compatible with non-AMG W211 vehicles! Remember, AMG = All Money Gone.
-Brakes
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post8444437
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7160126
Electrical fuses and relays
-https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w211/486278-w211-fuses-relays-sam-modules-chart.html
Read the entire thread and pay attention. Discusses differences between the AMG and non-AMG harnesses. My post #20 should be of particular interest to you but I give great credit to Kropf for his efforts in building the database. He did fantastic work.
Maintenance and checks, sensor locations, services
-See attachments
PM me your email address and I can send you several tens of megabytes of technical data on the car to assist you learning it.
EDIT: If you do not have service history on the car, so long as it was maintained by a dealer, competent independent, or competent private owner, you can pull the service history out of the CGW (Central GateWay) using STAR and ASSYST PLUS. I've posted on this in the stickies.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post7250102
Via PM, thanks again!
