jhoov01

I have my 2010 E63 (with performance package) for a little over a year now and I am in need of new tires. Any suggestions?

E-Ridium 63

Already?

Vic55

ummmm get new ones?

Not sure what you are looking for in regards to your question?????

Do you have abnormal wear, do you drive your car like a bat out of hell? Do you light up your tires?

More info would help us here. Or are you looking for a certain brand?

220S

How many miles? "A year" doesn't mean much....

I ate up my rears in a year and at 17k which I think was pretty decent. Fronts were fine of course.

If only the rears are gone, then cheape$t route is stick with same brand as before and keep the fronts. I didn't like the Conti IIIs that came on my 2009 W211, so I replaced all corners with PS2s. PS2s are a nice match with the W211 chassis.

Not sure what people prefer with the later W212 chassis, and it's a bit early to probably really know. But owners will be changing out tires soon on the earlier W212. Can't really go wrong with PS2s in general, but maybe there's something better for the W212(?)

jhoov01

Sorry newbie here. I am looking for suggestions as I am not real pleased with tires only lasting 10k miles. I don't drive crazy. In fact, I have never driven in RS mode or taken off the traction mode. I do have a heavy foot at times but nothing unreasonable given the car. This is my first amg so I really don't know much about what tires are best for this type of car.

Vic55

10k miles with the tq in these machines is quite reasonable. My tires wont last that long.

Which tires do you have on the car currently? You can always go to TireRack and pick matching pairs (front and rear OEM sizes) that will have a higher treadwear rating. These tires will last longer but you will sacrifice performance and possible ride quality since they will have a harder compound. Its all up to you... and what your needs are.

Racing Dad

really only 10K?which tires again?

i have the Pzero's and I'm at 9K and I think i can at least go another 9K.

Although i have to admit i've been looking at tires too. but i don't mind the short life. Although, mine isn't as short as yours. And I think i drive with a heavy foot. I love listening to those rear tires loose tranctions and it chirping. :-)

Anyway, I would reviiew this page and see which tires based on your needs.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/index.jsp

I'm looking in the ultra performance section, but if you're looking for a little more well rounded performance in good weather conditions I would stay at max performance or Ultra high performance. read the reviews and the survey about noise, wet traction, etc.

Racing Dad

Shoot. I just checked my rears from under my car and i was astounded to find they were almost flat!

My fronts look almost new. The rears, on the outer look almost new as well. But once i got down on my hands and knees, it was obvious i was worn to the tire replacement mark already. I drive virtually in sport suspension, the rear wheels ending having a good amount of angle. The inside of the tires are very worn, there's definitely uneven wear.

Well, be careful what you wish for, i was looking at new tires the last few weeks, very eager and curious for the time when i needed new tires. This is sooner than I expected. :-)

i'll probably do another 1K on it, then get the new tires.

I guess you (johoov) and I are pretty on track for tire wear.

220S

I was going to say something but I held my tongue

If you run in sport mode (and/or have the car lowered) the camber will wear the insides like no tomorrow.

I was surprised when you said 9K with another 9k to go still

I got 17k but that was really squeezing it and the insides were toast.

Fronts are no issue. But if you want to change brands, then bite the bullet now and replace all four. Then you can just do the rears again next time. imho, that's why it's important to choose the brand/model you want now, and stick with them to keep the fronts for every other cycle that you do the rears.

KonradE63

From the Tire Rack:
$700 will get you a full set of Hankook's for the 18" rims
$800 will get you the same set for the 19" rims
and up from there....

Less than your average B service

Racing Dad

don't know what to say except for you are right! :-)

I ordered my tires already. I'm probably gonna get some beef for this, but am experimenting a little.
I was deciding between the Yokohama Advan A08 or the Bridgestone RE-11.

Only bad thing is neither of them have a perfect fit for the rear. The Yoko are 295 and the Bridgestongs are 35 not 30.

I'll be the guinea pig for everyone, in case anyone ever wanted to do this.

I ended up going with the Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 285/35R19. OK, please no flaming! :-) I know what I did is potentially horrible.

I know if off spec.
1. it's different brands.
Hopefully if it works well, i will get matching fronts
2. i know it's wider, but i keep peeling out and having some problems transferring that power to the ground. So I wanted either wider or taller tires. I'll loose a little torque, but hopefully will be able to transfer more power to the ground.
3. if i don't like them, i'll burn through them, i was surprised how cheap they were, especially compared to the PZeros.

If they don't work well, I'll get the Yoko's and see who they work. :-)

I'll keep you guys posted.

KonradE63

Am I to understand that the alignment values change when you change the suspension setting?

If this is true, I have a bunch of follow up questions...

Vic55

start the followup ??'s


Whenever you lower or raise your car; the toe, camber, and castor can be and usually are changed. This clearly adjusts your driveability in a negative manner.

My camber is almost 2.50 degrees in the rear but the more important factor in tire wear is toe. This is the measurement that if not set correctly leads to scrubbing and the quickest wear.

Fyi there is no camber adjustment on our E63's. You can install camber bolts if you like which allows for adjustment.

KonradE63

Ok, I understand the concept that when you lower the car, the alignment settings change.

??s:
When you change the suspension from normal to one light (sport?) and 2 lights on (sport+) what happens to the car?

What I feel is the suspension gets stiffer, but I am not sure how this happens.
In addition to stiffening up, is the car lowered in these two settings? By how much?

Also I feel less roll. Do the settings on the anti-sway mechanism change as well?

What else changes on these two modes?

This is fun stuff.....

Vic55

When you change the stiffness of the shocks your alignment should not change. Stiffening shocks does change the geometry of the parts meaning the aligment is intact.

To my experience in reviewing my car, the stiffness settings do not affect the ride height but they do allow the car to flex more under undulations and uneven pavement. But at a standstill the heights are the same.

The anti-sways are fixed and do not adjust when you change the suspension settings inside. The dampenening is the only thing that changes.

E-Ridium 63

You ask about wiper stalk positions but have all this in your back pocket???

Vic55

I never read the manual.

csumt76

Stay with the stock size. Do NOT put a 295 on the factory wheel. I say this from my own experience.

Wider/Taller tires are not the answer for rear traction. The solution would be more weight transfer, a stickier tire, less psi, a wider tire on a properly fit wheel, etc. It's not a drag car.

Racing Dad

I know the sport setting lowers the car about 1". I've seen it happen. you can test it yourself, after you start the car, set it sport. sometimes it'll do it within a few minutes. Sometimes, you need to start driving a hundred feet or so, then at your first stop, it'll happen within 20 second. I notice it always happens when i start my car, wait for it to warm up, then when i stop outside my gate and get out of the car to close the gate.

not sure if S+ lowers it additionaly. stands to reason it would. but who knows.

thanks for the input. I appreciate it. I went with a taller tire, not wider. But that's good to know wider i definitely not the solution.

Thanks for the suggestions, but i feel that i've already tried all of that. weight transfer doesn't happen until you get can actually apply the power to the ground.
I feel like my Pzero's are plenty sticky for tires already. But hopefully with the extreme performance category, it'll be stickier. But only problem again is they don't have that size... :-(
Lower PSI is good, but i'm hesitant to go too low with 30 series tires.

Well, at least we know wider is definitely not the answer. i've tried taller tires on my previous cars. It was great, but we'll see if that holds true with this car. :-)

E55_GT3wheels

Really? I have not heard that before. I would go wider if I wanted more traction and I think the stock 19s are good for a 295 tire? No? Can you elaborate?

Vic55

Mine does not vary remotely close to an inch in Comfort vs Sport and Sport II. Must be due to lowering in the rear.

Also since the fronts our our AMG's are at a fixed height via steel springs I think it would very odd for the rear to raise or lower based on the stiffness settings. Not saying it doesnt happen though just not here.

csumt76

295 PZERO = torn wheel liners and cut wiring harness to the shocks/level sensors

Seems that the fitment is much tighter on the 212/207. I have also seen a bent(slightly) front wheel on a E550 coupe cause it to contact the strut body and make a horrendous noise while cornering. Just be sure and triple check the fit... in any case.

Racing Dad

OK, I'll test it out and let you guys know then. :-) getting it installed next week. need to make some time for it, they're just sitting at the installers. But knowing that their there to change out at anytime sure has made my lead foot even heavier.

Racing Dad

Just got them installed this morning.

haven't pushed them too much, want them to settle into place. But overall, it's nice to have a slightly smoother ride in the rear, because tire is a little taller. Overall, seems to be nice.

Based on appearance, I forgot how wide these tires are when you have fewer breaks in them. 285 is huge! Especially when there is very little treads on the tire.

I'll update in a couple of days.

Racing Dad

OK, update on my tires.

first, general impressions. It's been nice how it slightly takes the edge off of jerkiness, especially he 1st gear. When i do a cali rolling stop, right when i drop down to just below 7 mph, it downshifts to 1st gear. Then right when step on the gas my car tends to be a little jerky.
if i were to get new tires, I think i would do it again. MUCH better traction, i can barely break free now, even at WOT.

Pros:
1. Gentler ride
2. MUCH better traction
3. takes the jerkiness off of 1st gear
4. wheel ratio is higher so less likely to have traction control kick in on a little slipping

Cons:
1. makes my 19's look like 18's
2. makes my rear tires looks like drags
3. even more camber

@vic, are you sure there's not camber adjustments for our rears? My wheels are so angled now. I imagine it's the same for you with your 20's!