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can you block the BOV or deactivate it to see if it'll allow then engine to make full power (given that it's the issue) ? The shop can do this for you
That's a good idea, assuming the tune doesn't react to the flow from the diverter valve. I hope the R1 tune is simply made for hitting numbers and not dependent on BOV response, but that may narrow it down to the issue being the BOV anyways.
iCarsoft MB II specifically on Amazon is sold out but I see these other two ones. Amazon has the fastest shipping I could see which is only reason I'm looking there.
Renntech definitely has the name recognition power.
When I was looking into buying a 212, there were a few R3 pack cars for sale. They all had issues, and the owners weren't able to get the cars "running right," so they eventually gave up and sold.
Lots of great ideas in this thread, but I would start by uninstalling all of the mods. Then re-install one at a time and see what is causing the issue. Best of luck, I hope you can get it figured out. These cars are a ton of fun when tuned.
Wastegate shut to 5% during tuned run. I should have asked for the logs earlier.
This was unfortunately not accurate to what happens normally. The car felt incredibly slow for this run, even slower than what I was experiencing before. iCarsoft MB V3.0 scanner is on its way.
your wastegate is stuck open thus turbos cannot make boost, on stock run they are working fine, can you reflash stock file and check if wastegates are working as it should like before? if yes so it is a bad tune, if not failing wastegate.
edit: i just saw first seconds of the tuned run on the left of the graph, the wastegate has closed too high about 90-100% and boost went to roof and beyond target boost then the ecu has shutdown the wastegate, something went wrong i think bad tune.
Last edited by Robert AMG; 05-12-2023 at 02:40 PM.
Get rid of that BOV first or block it, run a lap tuned and see how you do.
if this is their canned stage 1 (mild) tune it's hard to believe it's bad given it's working on other cars, but anything is possible, did they report how many psi you're peaking with the tuned run? Stock run? A bad tune is always always a possibility.
you have overboost on the tuned run - still would like that BOV checked, but I agree the tune is awfully suspect since, again, the stock run data and street performance is fine.
Also you're not getting a p0299 underboost code stock or tuned, p0299 would trip a CEL, and suggest wastegate problem or vacuum line problem. Also your stock performance is spot on.
Last edited by PeterUbers; 05-12-2023 at 03:12 PM.
your wastegate is stuck open thus turbos cannot make boost, on stock run they are working fine, can you reflash stock file and check if wastegates are working as it should like before? if yes so it is a bad tune, if not failing wastegate.
edit: i just saw first seconds of the tuned run on the left of the graph, the wastegate has closed too high about 90-100% and boost went to roof and beyond target boost then the ecu has shutdown the wastegate, something went wrong i think bad tune.
This was the email detailing what they believe is wrong.
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
Get rid of that BOV first or block it, run a lap tuned and see how you do.
if this is their canned stage 1 (mild) tune it's hard to believe it's bad given it's working on other cars, but anything is possible, did they report how many psi you're peaking with the tuned run? Stock run? A bad tune is always always a possibility.
you have overboost on the tuned run - still would like that BOV checked, but I agree the tune is awfully suspect since, again, the stock run data and street performance is fine.
Also you're not getting a p0299 underboost code stock or tuned, p0299 would trip a CEL, and suggest wastegate problem or vacuum line problem. Also your stock performance is spot on.
Most confusing part is that stock is still perfect.
Originally Posted by Robert AMG
take out the vacuum line from the bov, that should close it and do a run to check.
I’ll have to try something, only thing I am worried about is cutting off normal flow, the diverter valve replaced the inlet tube, so I don’t want to restrict something that is part of stock system too.
Ran some more dragy tests after clearing “fault” codes with the car.
0-60 was as low as 3.32 and as high as 3.69.
60-130 was as low as 10.3 and as high as 13.1.
1/4 mile was as low as 11.42 and as high as 11.89. Trap speed lowest was 113.5 and highest was 120.7.
The 60-130 was by far the most noticeable difference. Running a 13.1 felt almost sickening…
IAT stayed between 37 and 56 degrees Celsius, didn’t really notice a difference between stock and tuned temperatures.
I have the iCarsoft MB V3.0 now and haven’t seen any crazy differences with live data and no codes have popped up that didn’t exist before or have no effect (instrument cluster or camera errors).
I’m attaching pictures of all measurable live data. If anybody has an idea of measurable things to compare to possibly narrow down issues, let me know, thanks.
Soft fault code P061B00 came up for torque calculation issue in transmission. First time I’ve noticed it and seems very generic, but let me know if anybody has an idea if it might narrow anything down.
Soft fault code P061B00 came up for torque calculation issue in transmission. First time I’ve noticed it and seems very generic, but let me know if anybody has an idea if it might narrow anything down.
that's ecu tcu tune likely ... maybe bad file ... and maybe why your car went into limp mode the one time
I wish you could just get a refund and get an EC tune and try that - likely your hardware could all be perfectly fine and like was mentioned already - you may have a bad tune file (ecu > tcu)
I wish you could just get a refund and get an EC tune and try that - likely your hardware could all be perfectly fine and like was mentioned already - you may have a bad tune file (ecu > tcu)
Would RENNtech be willing to do a refund on the HHT? They don’t seem to think anything is wrong with their end. I can eat the cost of diverter valve assuming it’s not the part causing issues, but since stock works perfect with it still active, I’d be surprised.
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
Still would like to see what the tune does without the BOV active
I emailed RENNtech asking best way to disconnect without completely removing, waiting on answer for now.
Still would like to see what the tune does without the BOV active
Been a while since I last updated, but so far…
Tried different tune: same results.
Blocked off BOV: minimal change in performance.
Brought to dealer: no issues with wastegate.
Checked DTCs and codes: nothing showing up.
Used scanner/data to check: nothing out of the ordinary that I can see.
At this point, I feel hopeless. Spent way more money trying to make this work than I would have ever liked and I’m essentially back to where I started, stock performance. Car still runs well in stock, tune is consistently worse besides 0-60.
I may give my old tuner from previous cars a call and see what he thinks but he’s more JDM oriented. Any ideas, thoughts, suggestions, or help is welcome.
you still haven't logged the car with hptuners so people can look at it
hptuners will have a log which is captured over as long a period of time as you want, where people can see if something looks off
capturing a couple point-in-time measurements with iCarSoft is pretty pointless, and relies on luck to happen to see something interesting at that moment
The waste gate duty log was way off in your graph above, maybe renntech is correct and more than a stock demand is fleshing out its weakness; maybe it's deficient beyond stock demand
not sure how extensively a dealer is testing a waste gate that is functioning in stock trim appropriately
and this would presumably be the case with another tune you tried as well as you indicated you tried two tune files so far
Used scanner/data to check: nothing out of the ordinary that I can see.
At this point, I feel hopeless. Spent way more money trying to make this work than I would have ever liked and I’m essentially back to where I started, stock performance. Car still runs well in stock, tune is consistently worse besides 0-60.
I may give my old tuner from previous cars a call and see what he thinks but he’s more JDM oriented. Any ideas, thoughts, suggestions, or help is welcome.
Maybe not the answer you want to hear, but I keep going back to this:
Originally Posted by cotmfk
Renntech definitely has the name recognition power.
When I was looking into buying a 212, there were a few R3 pack cars for sale. They all had issues, and the owners weren't able to get the cars "running right," so they eventually gave up and sold.
Lots of great ideas in this thread, but I would start by uninstalling all of the mods. Then re-install one at a time and see what is causing the issue. Best of luck, I hope you can get it figured out. These cars are a ton of fun when tuned.
Before you give up and sell, I would just take all the Renntech stuff off.
If turbo or wastegate fail ecu should give error low boost on that bank, which you don't have, ecu feel something abnormal and shut off (open) the wastegate,
you mentioned up that you tried different tunes, you mean diff files for same tuner?
you still haven't logged the car with hptuners so people can look at it
hptuners will have a log which is captured over as long a period of time as you want, where people can see if something looks off
capturing a couple point-in-time measurements with iCarSoft is pretty pointless, and relies on luck to happen to see something interesting at that moment
HPTuners ordered and just came in the mail earlier today. We’ll see if it shows anything out of the ordinary…
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
The waste gate duty log was way off in your graph above, maybe renntech is correct and more than a stock demand is fleshing out its weakness; maybe it's deficient beyond stock demand
not sure how extensively a dealer is testing a waste gate that is functioning in stock trim appropriately
and this would presumably be the case with another tune you tried as well as you indicated you tried two tune files so far
Dealer seems to believe wastegate is perfect and refuses to touch tune-related problems which is obviously understandable.
Read through a little, my battery voltage is fine and dealer believes vacuum lines are all in good shape. Going to do some more reading through but I do have an ‘Auxiliary Battery Malfunction’ right now but it seems to be a very irrelevant fix to something like this. They wanted to charge $408 for it so I’ll just get on YouTube and figure it out myself, assuming it’s easy.
Originally Posted by Robert AMG
If turbo or wastegate fail ecu should give error low boost on that bank, which you don't have, ecu feel something abnormal and shut off (open) the wastegate,
you mentioned up that you tried different tunes, you mean diff files for same tuner?
Different tuners… so X factor is definitely something with the car and not the tune.
Has anyone mentioned checking that vacuum pump nipple that fails on these? That controls vacuum signal to the boost solenoid that in turn controls the wastegates, and is a really cheap repair. Worth a few bucks and 15 minutes to check and replace, there should be a thread or two on it!
Has anyone mentioned checking that vacuum pump nipple that fails on these? That controls vacuum signal to the boost solenoid that in turn controls the wastegates, and is a really cheap repair. Worth a few bucks and 15 minutes to check and replace,
there should be a thread or two on it!
So now problem in the car and not with tuners, let's check those logs you sent before, i can see that those screenshots are not at full throttle, why?,and your iat are at 57 degrees Celcius (135F) which is high for cruising, second your coolant temp is at 100C which is weird cause those cars never goes above 93/94 C.
I was just looking at this post, thanks for mentioning.
Originally Posted by Robert AMG
So now problem in the car and not with tuners, let's check those logs you sent before, i can see that those screenshots are not at full throttle, why?,and your iat are at 57 degrees Celcius (135F) which is high for cruising, second your coolant temp is at 100C which is weird cause those cars never goes above 93/94 C.
Throttle was full on, I ran two 1/4 mile runs in those tests and the tune seemed to be even worse during the run than it normally was, had 4.5 0-60 instead of 3.3-3.7 and horrible roll numbers.
Cruising temperatures stay around 35-45 C, go up to 55-60 during/after a run and then back down to 35-45C. My temperatures don’t seem very far off or abnormal from anyone else I’ve seen online.
Originally Posted by GinDistiller
Has anyone mentioned checking that vacuum pump nipple that fails on these? That controls vacuum signal to the boost solenoid that in turn controls the wastegates, and is a really cheap repair. Worth a few bucks and 15 minutes to check and replace, there should be a thread or two on it!
05-11-2023, 07:39 PM
