Remember, the wastegate is open when not under a load, so no strain on the turbo. Sure, it spins, but not as fast as when under a load and the wastegate is shut.

One of the biggest shortcomings on our turbo cars (as far as I know) is no boost pressure gauge. A boost gauge would show that at idle the engine is in vacuum, meaning the engine is drawing more air volume than that being provide by the turbo compressor.

 

Part numbers, please!

 

If your vehicle has a boost pressure sensor, it does however show a bar but with no numeric value on newer MBs especially if it is an AMG.

 

I have a 2015 non-AMG car with the good old traditional analog dials. I can measure boost pressure with my scan tool, but it's not the same as having a boost gauge.

 

Lot's of back and forth on this facebook page regarding the solenoid:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...o&opi=89978449

 

Been discussed here before. Supposed MB AMG engineer dismissing wannabe engineers w/o even knowing who participated in these local discussions.

Likely a colleague with an inflated ego because went to school and got the dream job of his life

 

I'm a fan : )

 

I disconnected my alternator wire today, so we'll see if I notice any immediate improvement (not expecting any). I do get the following DTC (as would be expected).

 

Facebook is always my go-to source for reliable, accurate, authoritative information.

 

JR! I hear you about "not expecting any"... I was the same way : not expecting anything.
I was Miles away from expecting unstable voltage was hurting powertrain adaptations.

Chassis Voltage really should not affect anything but it's really obvious it does right away: no hair splitting necessary.

I soon as I started engine idled a bit higher than normal at operating temperature until throttle relearned idle Rpm automatically over 50Mi.

This is coming from a chassis with working variable voltage 12.6V/14.9V (many factors can disable the 12.6V float voltage range for a fixed voltage only). It took me a long time to get this 12.6V float managed by the REAR-SAM over > CAN-B > CGW > ECU > ALT-LIN.

> ALT-LIN Enhancement:

1. Disconnect Batt GND at brass stud + AUX GND (Reboot step1)
2. Unplug ALT-LIN!
3. CTEK float Batt on "AGM setting" while unplugged
4. Reconnect Batt Main/Aux (Reboot step2)
5. Set IC to display shop menu: Volt/Amp: 14.15Volts /1Amp.

You do need to reboot + float AGM.

I find this stable voltage further refine the throttle granularity to help low RPM Lag associated with 2nd gear shift quality. This definitely help engine run more predictably.

This may further help settle good temp regulation (learned map control) I see as a bit moody. With MOD-1 coolant was steaming, now engine temp is just about nice and stable ie. no fan running!

Personally I think this is directly helping CAN network timings (just like "solderless" does), not only ignition coil secondary voltage or 3-phase pump output volume.

Plan is to go rework F-SAM artificial wiring bug and then try that vs. ALT-LIN stable vs. stock variable voltage.

The long story short is variable voltage contributes to LAG (poor throttle granularity) and by domino effect disable necessary tranny adaptations (confused: slugging + banging).

Where there is lag from poor throttle control there is confused tranny shifts. This is positively helped with smoother timings.

+++ Let me link my REBOOT procedure...
I use jumper cable to prevent sparking grumblings awake.

+++ Cancelling LAG yields strong responsive linear gas pedal with seemless shifts... like a good engine.

This is for civil driving style under 3500Rpm.
Lots of responsive torque with pressure sensitive pedal. No need to climg in the R's

 

Just got back from running errands. I did not do a chassis reboot, etc., just unplugged the wire on the alternator. Probably placebo, but the car started and idled very smoothly.

A couple of things I did notice right away (again, placebo?): shifting was smooth and responsive. Lately, especially in the cold weather, shifting had instances of being harsh. I noticed none of that. The other thing is that both the tranny and throttle seemed more responsive. This "mod" no way adds 10hp, but it sure felt like it.

As mentioned, I do have a DTC with it, but no warning light or any indicator that the ECU has lost communications with the alternator and starter. I believe @S-Prihadi stated that he has had this disconnected for a long time without any problems. So, what's the downside?

 

Another increase of 0.0001% in fuel consumption .

Smart alternator lower the load on the engine as well.

 

JR! indulge a little do:
"AGM Voltage" float while disconnected
reboot to get CAN in learning mood

MS! has been missing on some chaos unknowingly...


My finish line will be: best throttle & CAN.
Recipe: cancelling chaos from built-in instabilities (Oil MOD/ ALT-LIN Voltage/ CAN F-SAM)

 

Yes, I will need to do that, too.

I haven't gotten to the SL yet. I tried to reach the connector, but I just can't reach it from the top well enough to disconnect it. I was able to do it on the C350 easily by removing the airbox on the M276. It's going to be a while because today was the warmest until Friday. I will need to attack the problem from underneath the car.

 

choice are underneath, from top or at the ECU connector...

ALT-LIN modification guarantees to have a fault code without a way of cancelling code.

So here is "back and forth" Plan B:
You can safely go back and forth whenever you need a "error free ECU" for SMOG Test purposes...

In fact we could make ALT-LIN MOD a tinny switch hidden inside ECU connector hood...

 

... did you help them see more daylight??

 

can you expand on the ecu connector? Snipping wires instead of pulling connector?
I want to do this too but it is crazy cold in Ontario so getting under the car is not fun right now lol. Barely did the oil solenoid but got that mod out of the way finally.
Also what do you mean by CTEK AGM Float while disconnected?

 

http://CTEK MXS 5.0, Cargador De Batería De Coche Y Moto 12V 5A Con Compensación De Temperatura Incorporada, Cargador Inteligente Baterias, Mantenedor De Batería Con Opción De AGM Dedicada https://amzn.eu/d/09Es0oQ

 

deleted

 

Can't believe I missed this, looks like I am missing out again, I am in, where do I sign up? Where about is this on an M276 TT? How should I unplug it?

 

-- We know what kind of nose bleed it is to work around your turbo charge pipes in frozen Ontario land...
-- since this ALT-LIN can be safely On/Off to pass inspection or get unrelated shop service,
-- it may be very desirable to interrupt or switch LIN inside the ECU harness back cover.

-- Use the WIS chassis diagram to identify what ECU pin wire color drives Alternator LIN serial data line. Pop off the connector cover then cut LIN line or wire an ON/OFF switch.

small electronic toggle $1 switch incl. wired tail

Having a switch will allow you to sort of remove the ECU fault on demand.


> ABOUT CTEK AGM FLOAT:
CTEK smart charger has a dedicated "AGM mode" to re-balance battery cells using a slightly higher voltage.


details of steps vs. settings


available operation modes


smart electronic float charger

Using this cycle optimizes the battery to be more powerful with lower internal resistance.
The draw back is higher voltage is not good for some of the chassis electronics that use cut throat margins (Main amplifier uses 16Volts caps!). So its best use while battery is out of circuit else use normal float mode, (just not AGM).


battery sensor shows it doing nothing

Again stable voltage is a nice thing but the key is what it does to module interoperation.

Speaking of LED HL, I think ALT-LIN stable voltage make them a tiny bit less bright than stock voltage swings. So electronic control adapts better to fixed voltage.

 

We should get ALT-LIN off the Oiling PUMP MOD thread.

The one thing these two fixes have in common is cancelling the powertrain weaknesses... at normal everyday driving Rpm.

I think lean misfire is a common form of that miss adapted lean laggy fuel map. With stable timing we cancel the stock chaos.

I have just realized that all this fun amount to the ECU ability to detune itself.
Every factor used to impact timing stability makes the engine work poorly. It sounds obvious when you think of it...
The hard part is knowing what to do!

Now we can experiment with..:
Stable Oil Pressure + ​​​​​​​Stable Voltage + Stable CAN

 

Sorry about that, please direct me to the appropriate thread.

 

> Let Me Fix That problem ... HERE!!

 

Thank you : ) subscribed to your thread.