I've concluded that whatever the inputs are and algorithm is, they work to provide an accurate and reliable number.

Yes this was discussed before in this same thread. I think (?) if I recalled correctly only vehicles like the AMG S 63 has an actual oil temperature sensor, that said, the algorithm and the calculations all works and relatively accurate on the rest of the MB models so that is good.

just did it to my 15 s550, transmission is now shifting smoothly and will even cruise at 900 rpm. Most of the downshifts occur between 800 and 900 something that wasn't happening previously

Congrats, happy to have you join us : ) look into the ALT-LIN as well : ) https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...s-voltage.html

Thanks I'll have a look

I'll be going through this with my car one step at a time
I got an engine light that came on last week on my car that is just a generic code w/e that is called again ( i'm not at home to put the scan gun on the car ). I'm suspecting and hoping i'm wrong that oil is tripping one of the sensors from the cams

Initially your gearbox has not made progress and keeps slugging the engine too low and still has limited oil pressure close to idle.

Eventually this should automatically get relearned with normal Rpm driving around 1750 where heat removal can become effective.

There are many engine faults that can get your car parked. Try not to ignore schedule maintenance or repairs as they snowball. Scan for faults report ASAP.

One of the rewards of improved engine control is normal heat management.
Currently your engine has extreme heat even in winter with easy driving.

> STOCK SETUP :
Laggy engine + confused gearbox + extreme heat

​​​​​​> STABLE SETUP:
Strong engine + nimble gearbox + cool engine

Given normal conditions engine timings will come under excellent ECU/TCU control.

MOD 8: sell the thing 😂



(MOD 7: chrome all the things)

Yes get that CEL fixed and.... I like that tagline, make mb great again : )

Hi to all
Did anyone report the problem to MBUSA customer service? Did Mercedes recognize the mistake and get the responsibility for the repair (recall??!!!)
It's not exeptable on over $70000.00 car to have issues like that!

???

Report what?

I guess related threads might be the culprit. You can disable I think let me see if I can find out where.

Found it https://mbworld.org/forums/profile.php?do=editoptions
Choose the Disable related threads radio button and hit save changes.

@Big VYou are so right about that!!
MB is definitely not in business to compete with Lexus.

They carefully design and build cars to help sustain a thriving business. Luxury service is an essential part of the Mercedes ownership experience.

Please follow up with us about MB USA feedback. They have top specialist ressources on staff. Rest assured your request will be dispatched professionally.
Thank you.


++++ JUST REALIZED...
Defeating extreme heat means very positive things:

Cam sensors will stop leaking oil
It will stop "10k-oil-in-harness" lottery
Extreme heatsoaks will stop
long lived radiators and heat exchanger

Kinda related. Another problem with 2-stage pumps.

Thanks for all the info and contribution

I'm doing my first steps thanks to an error message P06DA00 (f) which is recorded under the MED177 section N3/10.
It's since 2000 miles for a total of 10 occurrences

I'm understanding that what is named by MB Xentry "Valve of the oil pump" seems to be the same part but other naming of "oil pump solenoid"

The full error message is "The actuation of the valve of the oil pump in the combustion engine has an electrical fault or open circuit"




On the basis of the xentry test section I was able to read the valve %. in different condition.
:

• 0% at initial warmup
• 0% when above 3500
• 0% when using "engine braking" to slowdown
• 45% when running between 800 and 3500

Just to be sure :

1. 0% means that the full oil pressure is released
2. 45% means half pressure (to reduce consumption)
3. Value displayed is the signal sent by the ECU to the valve ?
   In other words, could I trust the displayed xx% as the true position/flow and therefore consider that my valve is not defective or is the recommended test (listening the noise) the only way ?
   It seems surprising that the voltage doesn't change whatever it is 0% or 45%
4. On the basis of the previous thread, if I wish to "desactivate/unplug it" it's better to do it after Oil pan cleaning / change

Thanks

Thierry

The ECU P06DA00 fault suggest your oil pump solenoid is faulty. It being over 2000Mi suggest it died in the default normal pressure, thank God... else the engine would already have blown up one of its cylinders.

This is usually coined as "LUCKY CODE": you now have a natural MOD-1.
Initial engine improvements from better lube will be limited by the your choice of oil viscosity.

The solenoid PWM signal is used by the ECU to sense the coil current, not to actuate various pressure against the dual-rate single-stage pump return spring.

​​​​​​If you decide to get effective VVT positioning your engine will further benefit from stable voltage.
ALT-LIN without MOD-4 may register limited timing improvements.

Gas savings vs. oil pressure :
Power is produced more efficiently with less gas and less frictions.
MOD-4 uses less gas than stock by building better fuel map.

As Cali said, the P06DA00 is a "good" fault and I would not spend the $$$$ to fix it (very labor intensive) when the preferred configuration is to be disconnected. In the previous 2600 posts, we discuss how Mercedes actually issued a technical bulletin telling dealerships to ignore the code. There was also technical literature describing the two-stage pump solely used to improve gas mileage, emissions, etc.

So, if you want to be sure you don't have a problem, I would actually disconnect the wire to the connector on the block (so it doesn't mysteriously start working again) and actually measure the oil pressure. There is a test port near the oil filter. If you have a copy of the WIS, look it up. Once satisfied that the solenoid is in the default, non-restricting position, plug in a dummy/sacrificial solenoid so you don't get the code. Again, this has been covered above.

Yes, the % value is what ECM wants the oil pump solenoid to do, whether oil pump solenoid actually actuated to that level is not known,
as there is no feedback sensor to verify that position.
But the ECM does monitor power consumption of the solenoid and if the driver in the ECM for oil solenoid powering..... get overloaded as in short circuit, ECM will declare DTC.

Open circuit of oil solenoid or its wiring will also produce DTC.
That zero volt you are getting maybe the result of open circuit .

However, that 2V limit voltage of oil pump is wrong, I do not know why Xentry software is "faulty" for that section. Mine is M276.820 engine.
The power delivered to Y130 oil pump solenoid is 12V but PWM pulsed.
Watch here :


===========

A failed oil solenoid valve or its wiring, means the oil valve stop working, but in OPEN state and thus no more lowered oil pressure by ECM.....
However, if you want to confirm that the oil solenoid did not "die" in a semi-closed position, only mechanical oil pressure test can verify that.
Stuck semi-closed oil solenoid valve has happened, but rare. Master Tasos video has the rare sample of such failure.

.

Thank you so much.

That is a lot of "premium" information. I did my first research in the pdf hosted on this website and found a document explaining "howto measure oil pressure".

It took me more time than expected, believing that B42 xentry test was giving the ability to retrieve the pressure (as highlighted in the thread). Too bas, it is not the case for my 157.981 version (no oil pressure sensor).

I double checked the above xentry screen (which are normally designed for "TEST" and not for displaying value while driving.
If I press on the test RUN, it will close at 90% with a V value of 1

The provided explanation is brilliant. It's full of sense that potential defect will be detected by the lack or too high current intensity.
Being "an open circuit diagnostic", I guess that we could not directly "it's oil leaked in the connector".

Since I have discovered thanks to you, how the lack of pressure could cause potential issues, I'm systematically using the "engine braking" (which seems to fully open the valve).

Does it bring any value to plug an "on purpose external valve" to let the ECU believe that it is still operational or the fact that the ECU diagnoses the valve as defective doesn't impact the way that it is normally operating ?

One more time, thank you, thank you so much for your help and time to share all this valuable expertise.

JettaRed, me, and several others have disconnected the solenoid, and connected a ‘dummy’ solenoid to the connector, so the ECU thinks everything is normal, and doesn’t throw a code.

If you are talking about the addition of a "dummy" solenoid to trick the ECU into believing all is good, then the benefit is not triggering a DTC. The DTC does not appear to affect the operation of anything. Most people do not get a CEL, so the DTC can truly be ignored. But for the few people that do get a CEL, it's necessary to use the dummy solenoid to turn it off.

I disconnected about 3 months ago before I changed the oil. I switched from Molygen 5w-40 to Liechtlauf 5w-40 with 1.5 bottles of Ceratec. Checked the oil yesterday and it was amber, I have driven about 1000 or so miles and definitely noticed a more responsive pedal and smoother acceleration across the board. I just installed an ECU tune 2 weeks ago and I have a few hard shifts every so often, I am guessing the TCU is trying to relearn driving patterns.

Take it easy at the beginning. The TCU needs time to adapt.