Oil pump solenoids




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-Ku9efaZTk&t=20s
Classic engines have no hydraulic VVT Gears and no dual-rate pumps.
It seems that MB engine designers ignored that as well. Surging the VVT position royally corrupts ECU timings.
The real fix for this ordeal is electrically positioned VVT.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 12, 2025 at 02:42 AM.




There's enough "MB Approved" lubricant left on cylinder walls to function with low tension piston rings.
Piston squirter's are activated whenever enough pressure becomes available. 25psi does not make them effective. If only one squirter plugs up... engine's history!

MOD-4 is not really a lubrication fix but a pressure fix.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 12, 2025 at 02:52 AM.




- vary by engine type
- driving style
- MOD-Level/progress
- oil current mileage
- coolant temp
- exchanger Rpm circulation
so numbers are somewhat meaningful.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 12, 2025 at 03:38 AM.
completely normal driving
i would say MOD-1 because my current Motul is SN and not SP... i think when is SP goes to MOD-2?
oil mileage: 2k km
also IC pump always ON




The primary goal is to wet your hard baked rings.
Ultimately oil will be hotter than coolant but on MOD-2 you're effectively spraying only above 2500Rpm. You have a partisl seal and this well for transition time while rings are poor.
✌️
Cool oil + hotter coolant witness hot dry pistons

Hot oil + cooler coolant witness cooled wet pistons
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 12, 2025 at 04:09 AM.
The primary goal is to wet your hard baked rings.
Ultimately oil will be hotter than coolant but on MOD-2 you're effectively spraying only above 2500Rpm. You have a partisl seal and this well for transition time while rings are poor.
✌️
The Best of Mercedes & AMG








MOD-1 0W40 sprays around 3000.R
MOD-2 5W40 sprays around 2500.
MOD-3 15w40 sprays around 2200
MOD-4 5W50 sprays around 1600
MOD-5 10W50 should spray 1400
Numbers get derated as super heated stock oil polymers sheers viscosity!
A w50 oil derates into w40 with heat + mileage...
Keeping effective spray at driving Rpm preseve oil from extreme conditions a 5/10W50 is used to keep a small head reserve under most conditions.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 12, 2025 at 04:31 AM.
MOD-1 0W40 sprays around 3000.R
MOD-2 5W40 sprays around 2500.
MOD-3 15w40 sprays around 2200
MOD-4 5W50 sprays around 1600
MOD-5 10W50 should spray 1400
Numbers get derated as oil sheers viscosity!
A w50 oil derate into w40 with heat + mileage...
To keep effective spray at driving Rpm to preseve oil from extreme conditions a 5/10W50 is used to keep a small head reserve under most conditions.

and for MOD 2 we can do some little magic and pour a shot of 1-200ml of w50 to boost w40 which can serve with a bit better spraying and potential sealing




> This stuff is both complex & simple !!
-- The science of petroleum distillate, additives package, friction modifiers is ultra complex.
-- The best way to preserve the blend is not challenge oil to extreme heat of dry piston.
-- Keeping engine temps in the zone preserve the oil useful viscosity VVT need. (MOD-4).
The vicious cycle is the more you heat the oil the lower its viscosity, the less its gonna spray the hotter its gonna get... wasted! So you use shots to prevent that when VVT positioning becomes marginal until you transition to w50 that will positively seal your cylinders balanced or not.

+++ THE NOT SO FINE PRINTS: +++
> MB un-approved viscosity can cut both way:
--- HELP seal gets better timings, better fuel maps
--- HURT under high load if stuck rings are not sealed.
-- So I recommend being conservative by not rushing to hide drafty ring with W50.
-- ECU is really gonna get you WAY MORE POWER and your engine better be PHYSICALLY READY to handle high demands else be CONSERVATIVE: don't go extreme above 4kRpm and let it get vibration-free

When all cylinders are maxed out you get the most power. When only few cylinders are contributing it's danger around the corner.
> TOUCHY MIXTURES...
-- You know how GDI timing is injecting multiple shots in the compression stroke.
-- If parts of a Cyl. compression is leaked out the A/F mixture is wrong and the contribution is hardly controlled.
-- We help ECU work for us, not against us.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 12, 2025 at 05:59 AM.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-Ku9efaZTk&t=20s
Hi guys, long time lurker of many years including the Tasos files. Finally decided to create an account. Local of Virginia and likely not too far from @JettaRed and @Baltistyle (I hope to get an Estate E63 soon!).
Had my solenoid swapped with the above since Sept, '24 on my '15 RWD E250 with 90k miles (140k km). Not too difficult to change, just a lot of patience. Not sure if this gets tricky with 4Matic. While this resolves the issue of switchable oil pressures, it does not resolve the piston cooling jets issue. With the cold weather and driving easy, my oil temps can take as much as 20 min to reach 160F (71C). I have always questioned why this is happening while all the gas folks are reporting fast warm up times with just the oil pump solenoid disconnected. On my 2nd batch of Motul 8100 X-CLEANGen2 5W-40 (API SP, MB 229.52 | VW 511 with low ash-saps for diesels)
At least for the diesels, there is another solenoid specific to activating the cooling jets.
MB's reason: See attached PDF
Fig. 4: Technological Elements, OM 651 Euro 6 and BIN5
Switchable Piston Cooling
The piston-cooling units are actuated via a separate oil duct, which is switched using an electric valve. After a cold start and during warm-up, the heat-up behavior improves markedly due to the deactivation of the piston-cooling units. Owing to the reduced heat dissipation, the critical raw HC and CO emissions drop appreciably in the phase before high conversion rates are achieved by the oxidation catalyst – a phase that is extremely significant in terms of emissions. The exhaust enthalpy is also increased.
Video below. I sent the guy a message for that, But he wanted $400 US

In the meantime once this snow melts I will try to see if I can reach in and disconnect that 2nd solenoid. Hoping for no CEL and a fast warm up afterwards.
Last edited by Sargy; Feb 12, 2025 at 10:23 AM. Reason: Found more info to add




Hi guys, long time lurker of many years including the Tasos files. Finally decided to create an account. Local of Virginia and likely not too far from @JettaRed and @Baltistyle (I hope to get an Estate E63 soon!).
Had my solenoid swapped with the above since Sept, '24 on my '15 RWD E250 with 90k miles (140k km). Not too difficult to change, just a lot of patience. Not sure if this gets tricky with 4Matic. While this resolves the issue of switchable oil pressures, it does not resolve the piston cooling jets issue. With the cold weather and driving easy, my oil temps can take as much as 20 min to reach 160F (71C). I have always questioned why this is happening while all the gas folks are reporting fast warm up times with just the oil pump solenoid disconnected. On my 2nd batch of Motul 8100 X-CLEANGen2 5W-40 (API SP, MB 229.52 | VW 511 with low ash-saps for diesels)
At least for the diesels, there is another solenoid specific to activating the cooling jets.
MB's reason: See attached PDF
Fig. 4: Technological Elements, OM 651 Euro 6 and BIN5
Switchable Piston Cooling
The piston-cooling units are actuated via a separate oil duct, which is switched using an electric valve. After a cold start and during warm-up, the heat-up behavior improves markedly due to the deactivation of the piston-cooling units. Owing to the reduced heat dissipation, the critical raw HC and CO emissions drop appreciably in the phase before high conversion rates are achieved by the oxidation catalyst – a phase that is extremely significant in terms of emissions. The exhaust enthalpy is also increased.
Video below. I sent the guy a message for that, But he wanted $400 US

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSIAbOvRENI
In the meantime once this snow melts I will try to see if I can reach in and disconnect that 2nd solenoid. Hoping for no CEL and a fast warm up afterwards.
#1 engine oil pump control.
#2 pistons squirters control.
This setup is different than gasoline engine.
I am not familiar with your squirter solenoid (disconnect vs. connect??) - You'll want to experiment with active piston cooling enabled ie. disable dry pistons feature for normal engine lifespan.
Q: Have you noticed your engine storing extreme heat??
Q: Does your engine uses VVT Camshaft positioning system? If so viscosity experiment may be in your near future.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Feb 12, 2025 at 10:52 AM.
But those are just my 2 cents (which are probably worth less now).
Only had the car since August, so my experiencing with storing extreme heat is limited. To answer this question, I have not noticed anything from this.
But those are just my 2 cents (which are probably worth less now).
With that, I did do a long test drive from DC to NY in a 213 All road and found myself feeling mixed with it. Might need more seat time. Of course its a bigger discussion better served on another thread

Now a 2014-16 E400 wagon from Canada as a daily? That would be a sweet package for the money.
Last edited by Sargy; Feb 12, 2025 at 11:42 AM.
But those are just my 2 cents (which are probably worth less now).
Only had the car since August, so my experiencing with storing extreme heat is limited. To answer this question, I have not noticed anything from this.
As far as I know through research, the OM651 does not utilize a VVT system. With this being introduced in 2008 I believe the first diesel to have it was from Mitsubishi around 2010.
I appreciate you looking out and couldn't agree more. The traffic here is terrible! I do not plan on having it as a daily driver. More so as a vehicle to enjoy long trips in. I am a fan and I think I would prefer it to a 213 for the "somewhat simpler DIY maint experience"
With that, I did do a long test drive from DC to NY in a 213 All road and found myself feeling mixed with it. Might need more seat time. Of course its a bigger discussion better served on another thread

Now a 2014-16 E400 wagon from Canada as a daily? That would be a sweet package for the money.
and yes if you are fine with a six cylinder and don't have to get a V8, do get a vehicle with the M276 engine.
Hi guys, long time lurker of many years including the Tasos files. Finally decided to create an account. Local of Virginia and likely not too far from @JettaRed and @Baltistyle (I hope to get an Estate E63 soon!).
Had my solenoid swapped with the above since Sept, '24 on my '15 RWD E250 with 90k miles (140k km). Not too difficult to change, just a lot of patience. Not sure if this gets tricky with 4Matic. While this resolves the issue of switchable oil pressures, it does not resolve the piston cooling jets issue. With the cold weather and driving easy, my oil temps can take as much as 20 min to reach 160F (71C). I have always questioned why this is happening while all the gas folks are reporting fast warm up times with just the oil pump solenoid disconnected. On my 2nd batch of Motul 8100 X-CLEANGen2 5W-40 (API SP, MB 229.52 | VW 511 with low ash-saps for diesels)
At least for the diesels, there is another solenoid specific to activating the cooling jets.
MB's reason: See attached PDF
Fig. 4: Technological Elements, OM 651 Euro 6 and BIN5
Switchable Piston Cooling
The piston-cooling units are actuated via a separate oil duct, which is switched using an electric valve. After a cold start and during warm-up, the heat-up behavior improves markedly due to the deactivation of the piston-cooling units. Owing to the reduced heat dissipation, the critical raw HC and CO emissions drop appreciably in the phase before high conversion rates are achieved by the oxidation catalyst – a phase that is extremely significant in terms of emissions. The exhaust enthalpy is also increased.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...d084391c41.png
Video below. I sent the guy a message for that, But he wanted $400 US

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSIAbOvRENI
In the meantime once this snow melts I will try to see if I can reach in and disconnect that 2nd solenoid. Hoping for no CEL and a fast warm up afterwards.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...9b3395de4e.png
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/t-Used...C-Wagon-t70289
EDIT: Be careful. About half of those cars are "Salvage Reported".
Last edited by JettaRed; Feb 12, 2025 at 11:39 AM.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/t-Used...C-Wagon-t70289
EDIT: Be careful. About half of those cars are "Salvage Reported".
You can easily and safely get around 400+ hp on the M276.8xx engine with a simple ECU tune. The 6 cylinder is easier (more space) to work on.
Yep. Im getting more reliable pressures at the crank and everywhere else while the pistons are likely getting super heated from that 2nd solenoid haha. Correct me if i'm wrong but are the diesel combustion chambers MUCH hotter vs gas? Especially when the DPF is regenerating. I cant imagine the numbers.
Similar to the gas cars I would read stories of million mile taxi/sprinter OM651s while others blow up under 50k miles because of potentially stuck solenoids with oils lacking flow/pressure at higher rpms. Im definitely after reliability so if pistons can get cooled, what does that mean for everything else in the combustion process....I shall find out!
I also wonder what MPGs I would get with that 2nd solenoid defeated. best was 44mpg with the AEM recall and 50 cetane driving to NC vs some parts of Europe getting well over 60MPGs with less emissions requirements
Last edited by Sargy; Feb 12, 2025 at 03:21 PM.
Yep. Im getting more reliable pressures at the crank and everywhere else while the pistons are likely getting super heated from that 2nd solenoid haha. Correct me if i'm wrong but are the diesel combustion chambers MUCH hotter vs gas? Especially when the DPF is regenerating. I cant imagine the numbers.
I also wonder what MPGs I would get with that 2nd solenoid defeated. best was 44mpg with the AEM recall and 50 cetane driving to NC vs some parts of Europe getting well over 60MPGs with less emissions requirements








