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Right after every engine start, the ECU deactivates the pump solenoid to expedite purging air bubles out of the oil galleries and hydraulic devices:
3x chain tensioners
4x "magnets" valves
4x VVT Phasers
Normal pressure only last for a minute or less... to save gasoline .
As pointed out during cold start oil is more viscous than at working temperature. I can't imagine the viscosity in standard engines when oil is sprayed on overheated pistons???
I think vaporized oil viscosity is off the charts.
> FANCY PUMP:
-- The dual-rate single stage pump is not actually based on pressure but VOLUME alone.
-- There is no pressure control in this engine oiling circuit except for each squirter around 20/25Psi ball on spring and the VVT positioning given minimun pressure is available to counter HPFP drag.
-- Pump Low internal volume can't supply enough quantity so low pressure is the result.
-- Pump Normal internal volume supplies more quantity and is able to build up more pressure that what's being drained through.
Idle oil pressure is nearly identical regardless of solenoid being on/off.
- These engines like good viscous oil to run VVT gears... not a marginal xW40 viscosity that quickly becomes a weak xW30.
> PRESSURE WATCHDOG:
I don't understand why Bosch could not bother to use a $5 pressure sensor to limp-mode the engine when solenoid jams open -
We can limp-mode the engine ourselves by disabling CKP on low pressure condition above 1,200.Rpm.... sounds like an Arduino project !!!
+++ Now LAUNCHES from idle...
> PEDAL:
-- I need to relearn driving this car: I am not used to my car launching forward as soon as I touch the accelerator at a stop light. The response is very solid like a Tesla.
-- The more you press down the harder it pushes forward. What a concept!
-- Hesitations are gone:no mo jello.
It was caused by ECU idle timings matching the de-tuned engine.
> TRANNY: lots of learning!!
-- Transmission keeps learning best behaviors based on our accelerator demand.
I know we sport different hardware inside the gearbox BUT our firmware control works the same and disfunctions for the same reasons as well: crappy poor TCU timings just like ECU.
-- Before tranny was working hard shifting up/down but overall doing a poor responsive job.
-- Now tranny understands when to hold, when to shift. It drops readily super quick.
-- Tranny is no longer confused about what the engine wants to do. Always in the right gear like a direct wheels connection.
All this because ECU has stabilized so TCU can recognize shift paterns.They both work intimately.
The bottom line is strong new power with very little pedal movement -
Good deal
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-17-2023 at 05:10 PM.
No, because there is no oil pressure sensor. Even in the WIS, you are instructed to attach a temporary external oil pressure gauge to measure oil pressure at different RPMs.
Only certain models of the M157 get a oil pressure sensor, i.e. S63 models.
So last question before I fire up the car. I have all 4 new solenoids and sensors that I installed less than a year ago. So I should be good to go as far as turning on the car and not expecting it to blow up right?
Just got back from the test drive. I unplugged the valve, went for a short drive, and then pulled 3 psi from each tire and went for a longer drive. First, the ride is way better so I think I'll keep it that way and second, I couldn't stop driving the car in general. Let me explain.
I cannot believe how snappy it is on a free rev right from idle. This translates to the rest of the improvements which I will summarize.
1) The part throttle response/torque delivery from a low RPM is totally smoothed out and stronger. I'm talking like 1000-2000 rpm situations where you roll into the throttle. It was unsmooth and would kind of surge before. I even threw a wastegate vacuum harness at it as well as a vacuum pump check valve, thinking that might help. Nope, it was the damn VVT not reacting right to low oil pressure due to the oil pump valve bleeding pressure at low RPM.
2) Idle quality is improved in general. It's just smoother.
3) Revving response in park/neutral as the video shows is extremely crisp. I can't believe it actually.
4) And here's one that really blows me away. I thought I had MCT clutch chatter, like when slowly moving off the line, up a slight hill or something. I just figured, hey, it has 102k on it, it's going to chatter a little bit. Well, the MCT engagement is COMPLETELY smooth now. Like I said, I am blown away. Forward, reverse - it's totally smooth. I was convinced it was the MCT! It was just the engine running unsmoothly.
5) Actually the transmission shifting itself seems smoother to me (up and down).
Now do I think this really adds any peak power? No, because the oil pump valve would already be closed in those situations. But for all the situations where you are at part throttle, especially at lower rpm, this made a huge difference. Oh, and no CEL. Engine sounds healthy and strong. I have zero concerns about any downsides to this. I think it is all upside, incredibly.
Alright, now someone else try it! You're welcome in advance for bringing this to the W212 AMG forum, even though it seemed to be known to the M276 community already. Cali, are you the one who made the comment on a Youtube video that said to unplug this valve? That comment is what started this whole evolution for me.
Between this and the tire pressure change, like I said above, I couldn't stop driving it when I was done.
omg I just experienced the exact same!!! This thing revs so hard and fast in park now, scared me!! And ya, the throttle response, omg, is it snappy when initially accelerating. The throttle is so much more sensitive now!!
omg I just experienced the exact same!!! This thing revs so hard and fast in park now, scared me!! And ya, the throttle response, omg, is it snappy when initially accelerating. The throttle is so much more sensitive now!!
I am glad to see you guys can enjoy a similar experience
> The MAGIC:
I wrote earlier about getting the new exponential response... this describes how hesitations got replaced by a great kicker.
Now we can get a hell of power from 900.RPM without waiting for extreme RPM's.
Now you can rush over a half block distance: real strong, real quick, real short.
POWER IS BRUTAL.... now likely engine safe !!
That's when you know you're there:
Good crankcase blow-by
Cleaner Lambda
Stable timings
Great maps
Zooom!
++++ The Road Ahead Is Opened
Once you realize where you at and where you can go then you begin to take decidions to match your choices.
Silver bullets are extremely rare like nuggets.
Usually improvements come with hard work, sweat and tears. We've got shortcuts free to learn.
Thanks to this forum of great people, you have fresh opportunities on-hand to make your Benz great again!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-17-2023 at 05:50 PM.
Reason: DANKE SCHOEN
I am glad to see you guys can enjoy a similar experience
> The MAGIC:
I wrote earlier about getting the new exponential response... this describes how hesitations got replaced by a great kicker.
Now we can get a hell of power from 900.RPM without waiting for extreme RPM's.
Now you can rush over a half block distance: real strong, real quick, real short.
POWER IS BRUTAL.... now likely engine safe !!
That's when you know you're there:
Good crankcase blow-by
Cleaner Lambda
Stable timings
Great maps
Zooom!
++++ The Road Ahead Is Opened
Once you realize where you at and where you can go then you begin to take decidions to match your choices.
Silver bullets are extremely rare like nuggets.
Usually improvements come with hard work, sweat and tears. We've got shortcuts free to learn.
Thanks to this forum of great people, you have fresh opportunities on-hand to make your Benz chassis great again!
Dude fr! Like look at all of the top Benz engines - all engines of yesteryear. Why? Cause of amazing performance with none of the BS from all of these “eco” features being implemented. Like previously mentioned, to save a minuscule amount of fuel or put out a couple of micrograms less of emissions.
When you add evidences up... your engine had a bottom end job, more likely a repair than a casual inspection.
Now you want to run the experimental oil pump mod, right?
Again this is not a miracle cure: it may HELP OR HURT your engine. Tasos fixes blown Mercedes all day.
What is the runing condition of this engine (CPS, VVT, Tensioners, service, oil)?
MB connectors use a dual lock. The first one has disappeared thanks to the tech who also used touch MB sealant.
Your brocken lock is pretty safe as is, no problem... they don't just pop.
removed by unlatching while pulling towards you
> Plan-B Quick Shortcut:
Leave broken connector as-is.
(No need use of dummy plug)
cut one of the two wires only.
Zip-tie loose wire back to its harness away from any moving parts.
then use patience for next 1500Miles
thick overflow
Overflow silicone has the potential to brake off internally and plug up something vital.
I don't make up reality :
Master Tasos' recent video above mentioned exactly that regarding both check-valves feeding secondary tensioners - It seldom happens but no one welcomes catastrophic loses. Just so you know what's in your cards. Mod can not fix severe cylinders issues: scoring, misfires, cracks
I wouldn't beat it passed 4500.RPM: plenty of power on tap already.
All the best.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-18-2023 at 05:29 AM.
So is the consensus that this is a good idea on our E63s? If so, I'll get this done on Wednesday. Is there any reason/circumstance to NOT do this mod?
From what I’ve gathered yes, unless your solenoid(s) are stuck in the low oil flow position?
Which begs the question, is there any simple way to verify that the solenoids are functioning before unplugging(I’ve already unplugged lol, but asking for others)?
Secondly, everyone that’s done this including me, are we just keeping our fingers crossed and hoping that our engines don’t blow up? Which begs the additional question, if stuck, how soon would the engine fail?
From what I’ve gathered yes, unless your solenoid(s) are stuck in the low oil flow position?
Which begs the question, is there any simple way to verify that the solenoids are functioning before unplugging(I’ve already unplugged lol, but asking for others)?
Secondly, everyone that’s done this including me, are we just keeping our fingers crossed and hoping that our engines don’t blow up? Which begs the additional question, if stuck, how soon would the engine fail?
Looking to do this on my m278, anymore info on location of the plug?
From what I’ve gathered yes, unless your solenoid(s) are stuck in the low oil flow position?
Which begs the question, is there any simple way to verify that the solenoids are functioning before unplugging(I’ve already unplugged lol, but asking for others)?
Secondly, everyone that’s done this including me, are we just keeping our fingers crossed and hoping that our engines don’t blow up? Which begs the additional question, if stuck, how soon would the engine fail?
That's my thought as well. How can we check the solenoid's current status without jerry-rigging a physical pressure gauge? Would my Indy mechanic have an actual way tool to check the oil pressure before I do this? Etc.
I can only see how this is very beneficial for the engine beside the solenoid being stuck open? Say if someone were to unplug it and it were stuck open before the unplug… would that user be able to tell right away or only time will tell with engine issues. Other than that this sounds like something everyone should consider doing as the results are right there and they’re all positive!
I hope those tiny piston spray nozzles stay put when the oil is at freezing 🥶 temps.
The engine oil is conditioned.
It's both heated and cooled through a heat exchanger with coolant that is regulated by the ECU through a smart thermostat.
Some engines even feature an additional oil Tstat.
Let your idle come down after start to circulate air out of conduits all the way back to HPFP oil port.
What sort of oil do you use??
I believe it's better to spray pistons with cool oil than to overheat them without oil, right?
From what I’ve gathered yes, unless your solenoid(s) are stuck in the low oil flow position?
Which begs the question, is there any simple way to verify that the solenoids are functioning before unplugging(I’ve already unplugged lol, but asking for others)?
Secondly, everyone that’s done this including me, are we just keeping our fingers crossed and hoping that our engines don’t blow up? Which begs the additional question, if stuck, how soon would the engine fail?
Am curious about this too... can MB Xentry / Star/ Das be used to test the oil pump solenoid function and flow low/high mode?
12-17-2023, 12:51 AM
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