When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Has anyone accessed this from above on the w212? If so - how did you do it (saw someone above with a 2013 do this from above ...)
Unless u got small hands, I wouldn't recommend it. Oil lines and other plastic fittings upfront that can easily break if not careful. Underneath its 10min job honestly.
Last edited by Mojo20032004; 12-15-2023 at 09:37 PM.
Unless u got small hands, I wouldn't recommend it. Oil lines and other place fittings upfront that can easily break if not careful. Underneath its 10min job honestly.
what's in the way of accessing it from underneath when the car is on ramps?
what's in the way of accessing it from underneath when the car is on ramps?
Front plastic belly pan cover comes off, reach through radiator hoses and unplug the sensor. Ziptie the sensor to the rubber hoses away from the belts.
If you look closely you can see the black ziptie where I ziptied the sensor away from the belt when unplugged. I circled it in red.
Last edited by Mojo20032004; 12-15-2023 at 09:42 PM.
Has anyone accessed this from above on the w212? If so - how did you do it (saw someone above with a 2013 do this from above ...)
Yes Peter, I did it. its super tight and I dont have large hands but did not remove anything but the beauty cover over the oil cap. However, you will not be able to zip tie it or protect it. I will be going under this weekend to protect it since I saw no issue so far. I faced the car and used my left hand on the passenger side of the plastic coolant line that connects to the engine block. The pick going in that way needs to be tiny. My fingernails could not do it at the odd angle.. Honestly, you are more than competent but for the struggle, just take off the eight bolts underneath. It took me twenty minutes but I still have to go under, though more to clean and track if this solenoid is leaking and will be replaced under warranty.
@BDC90 mentioned "I had an extra camshaft magnet sacrificial harness on hand. I cut the wires , taped it up to look like it was normal and plugged it in the solenoid and the harness. Same plug as oil solenoid."
Very early in the thread.
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Until now I did not mind this connection to stay opened.
Are you saying this connectors matches the CPS Pigtails?
I have a few left overs V6/8 difference
Same exact mech as a cps. Slide up/ out the white part (not shown on this pic) and then squeeze white tab and tilt slightly away from white side and pull directly off. I did mine from the top side using a small s hook like a pic. From below will be much easier and will allow inspection as needed.
ok, it is not a 3-wires CPS pigtail
but the 2-wires timing gear solenoid that everone calls "magnet" short for electro-magnetic solenoid.
That pigtail I don't have and now with normal lubing VVT "Magnets" likely will never get toasted.
Useless pump solenoid going to remain unplugged as-is.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-15-2023 at 10:17 PM.
So drove the car 300 miles today to visit Mom. Left in the morning with an outside air temp of 34 F. Garage temp 50 F . Oil temp went blue to white in 15 mins. That's quicker than before the unplug for Me.
I posted my review of it this morning.
I'm happy with it, I think it's most noticeable for me, cruising at 60 in sport mode, and flooring it. It just seems to come on so much more instant than while I was much of a softer gain of power before
I hope I covered everything in this post, I gave credit to the engineers, Cali and s-paradi. thanks guys
Very informative video and a great job at summarizing everything discussed in this thread. I would like to know more about your setup for a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Did you use the fitting on the bottom of the oil filter housing?
So appreciate the research and testing done here on this oil pump mod which is quite interesting.
quick question - what happens if you unplug it for a period of weeks and then plug it back in? I thought I read the thread that there could be issues if you do that or is that not correct?
So appreciate the research and testing done here on this oil pump mod which is quite interesting.
quick question - what happens if you unplug it for a period of weeks and then plug it back in?
I thought I read the thread that there could be issues if you do that or is that not correct?
thanks a bunch
That is correct. Did you see the very first post where a brand new engine blew up when the valve got jammed open?
I don't whish that on anyone.
Some solenoid valves are not screened. If the valve has not circulated oil for a while there a chance for piston particulate (carbon or aluminum) to have accumulated in the solenoid gallery ready to get forced in.
That valve is nothing but trouble.
If you suspect your engine has accumulated forbidden glitter then clean the oil pan for peace of mind. Carefully change the pick up tube O-Ring.
Instead of using a fancy dual-rate pump the design team could have limited the pressure using PWModulation to dump part of the normal output. No need for fancy pump.
Right now all we have is 2Bar switched over to 4Bars above 3500.Rpm, after start up and couple shots some times based on load calculations...
Performance suck below 2000.Rpm when VVT Gears are locked by low pressure.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-16-2023 at 03:10 AM.
Very informative video and a great job at summarizing everything discussed in this thread. I would like to know more about your setup for a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Did you use the fitting on the bottom of the oil filter housing?
very temporary, very ghetto lol. It like behind the belt and close to the fan, I just wanted to verify it had oil pressure.
It's a 6mm plug, so you need 6mm Allen socket, a swivel head 3“ extension. Then some creative zip tires to get it out of there belt and fan, I just ran the line back to the engine door and hand held the gauge
I suppose if you have a 90° brass connector, you could probably permanently install one, but it was too sharp of a bend and mine was only straight out with like 2 thread size adapters.
So, cuz of access I can do barely more than hand tight
Has anyone accessed this from above on the w212? If so - how did you do it (saw someone above with a 2013 do this from above ...)
just removed mine from the E350 from above. I used a mirror to get my bearings.
Then, used a short flat screwdriver to push out the grey tab. Garage was quiet, so I heard the click clearly. Wiggled the connector a bit and back pushing it out softly and it just slides out.
I bent the harness on itself and zip tied next to the ziptie that is already there. Cut to length
Checked with Xentry, the code is now there. Warmed it up. Quieter at the start, and pedal feels more like S than E mode. Need to go out, and give it something throttle
So appreciate the research and testing done here on this oil pump mod which is quite interesting.
quick question - what happens if you unplug it for a period of weeks and then plug it back in? I thought I read the thread that there could be issues if you do that or is that not correct?
thanks a bunch
It seems risky. An approach could be to rig up a test harness to apply 12V and ground directly, and cycle it a few dozen times. Assuming you can hear it click through the timing cover, crisp clicking would seem to indicate the plunger is not seized. Not definitive proof but at least the seized one Tasos showed was totally seized and not clicking at all.
put my GLE63s on the lift last night after reading this thread top to bottom. Watched @kennyd 's video. I pulled the plug and zip tied it to some coolant hose. I don't have xentry so I can't see the invisi-code, but no CEL's for me. I don't have much to contribute to discussion. I did take these videos though.
So during My Friday 3XX mile run to Mom's , 80% highway so below 3000 rpm I didn't see any measureable change in MPG. Too close to normal even considering OAT , traffic, wind etc.
So everyone, who’s going to manufacture a block off plate? Can this unit be replaced “while in there” with a plug that will also prevent further leaking. Any negative to the thought?
Yep… whoops. I watched the video but didn’t get to that part… got interrupted.
Might be easier to go from underneath.
One thing I noticed when putting my hand down there, there’s definitely signs of oil leaks. I know that the timing cover has been done, etc. Guess I have some cleaning to do.
do you have the leaks on the passenger side? I am sorting this out myself. I see some oil on my alternator and the drip pan and under the pan where the oil level sensor sits.
This started about a year ago and still just very minor drop. my timing covers and seals are original at 51,000 miles on a 2015 e63s
do you have the leaks on the passenger side? I am sorting this out myself. I see some oil on my alternator and the drip pan and under the pan where the oil level sensor sits.
This started about a year ago and still just very minor drop. my timing covers and seals are original at 51,000 miles on a 2015 e63s
These engines are built to be greasy with undersized seals.... NO Problem, it's only cosmetic unless it gets into the harness and alternator.
As soon as you seal one leak, you'll get another one and another one as replacement, until rear main gets activated.
Leaks only witness the high crankcase pressure of piston blowby and vaporized oil. Fix that then done!
With pump mod, as soon as crankcase pressure improves (~ 1000Mi) the oil leaking will quiet down and the brake booster vacuum will be noticeably improved by reduced vacuum pump intake pressure.
> 2¢... I think the collection of plastic TT cooling pipes are much greater concern. A perfect winter project in the North-East.
put my GLE63s on the lift last night after reading this thread top to bottom. Watched @kennyd 's video. I pulled the plug and zip tied it to some coolant hose. I don't have xentry so I can't see the invisi-code, but no CEL's for me. I don't have much to contribute to discussion. I did take these videos though.
Just did this mod. Watched Kenny’s video. Once I put the car up on ramps, it took about 10 minutes from removal of splash pan to unplugging the sensor. Used a right angle pick to pull the clip up, then my hands to pull the harness off. No oil present on the harness.
Is there a way to see oil pressure (or a proxy) in xentry? Would be nice to see pressures before/after and confirm solenoid is not "stuck" as in Tasos' video
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by san40
Is there a way to see oil pressure (or a proxy) in xentry? Would be nice to see pressures before/after and confirm solenoid is not "stuck" as in Tasos' video
No, because there is no oil pressure sensor. Even in the WIS, you are instructed to attach a temporary external oil pressure gauge to measure oil pressure at different RPMs.
12-15-2023, 09:28 PM
