Oil pump solenoids
12-18-2023 | 05:40 PM
#301
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 2,018
From: Maryland, United States
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
For everyone worried about a stuck solenoid, by definition it is STUCK and connecting or disconnecting the wire is not going to change that. Remember, the normal state is normal/high pressure and only when the car is ON does the solenoid change to low pressure. That's the failsafe. If your solenoid is stuck in the low pressure state, then it's going to stay in that state.
Last edited by JettaRed; 12-18-2023 at 05:44 PM.
12-18-2023 | 05:41 PM
#302
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 2,018
From: Maryland, United States
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
12-18-2023 | 05:41 PM
#303
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 175
From: Chicago
E63 SL55 996TT C5Z06
Right after every engine start, the ECU deactivates the pump solenoid to expedite purging air bubles out of the oil galleries and hydraulic devices:
.
As pointed out during cold start oil is more viscous than at working temperature. I can't imagine the viscosity in standard engines when oil is sprayed on overheated pistons???
I think vaporized oil viscosity is off the charts.
> FANCY PUMP:
-- The dual-rate single stage pump is not actually based on pressure but VOLUME alone.
-- There is no pressure control in this engine oiling circuit except for each squirter around 20/25Psi ball on spring and the VVT positioning given minimun pressure is available to counter HPFP drag.
-- Pump Low internal volume can't supply enough quantity so low pressure is the result.
-- Pump Normal internal volume supplies more quantity and is able to build up more pressure that what's being drained through.
Idle oil pressure is nearly identical regardless of solenoid being on/off.
- These engines like good viscous oil to run VVT gears... not a marginal xW40 viscosity that quickly becomes a weak xW30.
> PRESSURE WATCHDOG:
I don't understand why Bosch could not bother to use a $5 pressure sensor to limp-mode the engine when solenoid jams open -
We can limp-mode the engine ourselves by disabling CKP on low pressure condition above 1,200.Rpm.... sounds like an Arduino project !!!
+++ Now LAUNCHES from idle...
> PEDAL:
-- I need to relearn driving this car: I am not used to my car launching forward as soon as I touch the accelerator at a stop light. The response is very solid like a Tesla.
-- The more you press down the harder it pushes forward. What a concept!
-- Hesitations are gone: no mo jello.
It was caused by ECU idle timings matching the de-tuned engine.
> TRANNY: lots of learning!!
-- Transmission keeps learning best behaviors based on our accelerator demand.
I know we sport different hardware inside the gearbox BUT our firmware control works the same and disfunctions for the same reasons as well:crappy poor TCU timings just like ECU.
-- Before tranny was working hard shifting up/down but overall doing a poor responsive job.
-- Now tranny understands when to hold, when to shift. It drops readily super quick.
-- Tranny is no longer confused about what the engine wants to do. Always in the right gear like a direct wheels connection.
All this because ECU has stabilized so TCU can recognize shift paterns.They both work intimately.
The bottom line is strong new power with very little pedal movement -
Good deal
- 3x chain tensioners
- 4x "magnets" valves
- 4x VVT Phasers
.As pointed out during cold start oil is more viscous than at working temperature. I can't imagine the viscosity in standard engines when oil is sprayed on overheated pistons???
I think vaporized oil viscosity is off the charts.
> FANCY PUMP:
-- The dual-rate single stage pump is not actually based on pressure but VOLUME alone.
-- There is no pressure control in this engine oiling circuit except for each squirter around 20/25Psi ball on spring and the VVT positioning given minimun pressure is available to counter HPFP drag.
-- Pump Low internal volume can't supply enough quantity so low pressure is the result.
-- Pump Normal internal volume supplies more quantity and is able to build up more pressure that what's being drained through.
Idle oil pressure is nearly identical regardless of solenoid being on/off.
- These engines like good viscous oil to run VVT gears... not a marginal xW40 viscosity that quickly becomes a weak xW30.
> PRESSURE WATCHDOG:
I don't understand why Bosch could not bother to use a $5 pressure sensor to limp-mode the engine when solenoid jams open -
We can limp-mode the engine ourselves by disabling CKP on low pressure condition above 1,200.Rpm.... sounds like an Arduino project !!!
+++ Now LAUNCHES from idle...
> PEDAL:
-- I need to relearn driving this car: I am not used to my car launching forward as soon as I touch the accelerator at a stop light. The response is very solid like a Tesla.
-- The more you press down the harder it pushes forward. What a concept!
-- Hesitations are gone: no mo jello.
It was caused by ECU idle timings matching the de-tuned engine.
> TRANNY: lots of learning!!
-- Transmission keeps learning best behaviors based on our accelerator demand.
I know we sport different hardware inside the gearbox BUT our firmware control works the same and disfunctions for the same reasons as well:
-- Before tranny was working hard shifting up/down but overall doing a poor responsive job.
-- Now tranny understands when to hold, when to shift. It drops readily super quick.
-- Tranny is no longer confused about what the engine wants to do. Always in the right gear like a direct wheels connection.
All this because ECU has stabilized so TCU can recognize shift paterns.They both work intimately.
The bottom line is strong new power with very little pedal movement -
Good deal
You mentioned these points below that have improved as a result of the unplug.... so that horrible LAG in 1st from a dead stop is finally gone after doing this? The obsession with trans/adaptations all this time wasnt truly the issue causing the lag, it was the oil pump solenoid???
So better oil coverage for the motor AND the LAG removed are huge wins from this if I understand it correctly!
> PEDAL:
-- I need to relearn driving this car: I am not used to my car launching forward as soon as I touch the accelerator at a stop light. The response is very solid like a Tesla.
-- The more you press down the harder it pushes forward. What a concept!
-- Hesitations are gone: no mo jello.
It was caused by ECU idle timings matching the de-tuned engine.
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CaliBenzDriver (12-18-2023)
12-18-2023 | 05:46 PM
#304
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 6,277
Likes: 3,884
From: Silicon Valley
MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
RISKS ASSESSMENT...
From what I’ve gathered yes, unless your solenoid(s) are stuck in the low oil flow position?
Which begs the question, is there any simple way to verify that the solenoids are functioning before unplugging(I’ve already unplugged lol, but asking for others)?
Secondly, everyone that’s done this including me, are we just keeping our fingers crossed and hoping that our engines don’t blow up? Which begs the additional question, if stuck, how soon would the engine fail?
Which begs the question, is there any simple way to verify that the solenoids are functioning before unplugging(I’ve already unplugged lol, but asking for others)?
Secondly, everyone that’s done this including me, are we just keeping our fingers crossed and hoping that our engines don’t blow up? Which begs the additional question, if stuck, how soon would the engine fail?
Modding is strictly a personal choice. I could be wrong and don't want anyone to engage in experimental testing with $100k vehicle. So my only advice is to be "safe", stay stock, don't do it
When the valve is deactivated it stays shut for ever, nice!
Prior it would open/close/open until it got jammed and couple overheated pistons wasted the engine.
Cylinder scoring is from "gentle scraping" below 3500.Rpm literally with fumes of vaporized oil.
There's hardly a way to know what your engine is up to on the journey to its last day. We know it is around the corner. So you stay curious and keep it as-is.
> How to tell valve condition:
If your solenoid was jammed open your engine would be history in less than 5mn.
> How to prevent it from ever getting jammed: My choice was to unplug mine to keep it shut for normal pressure.
The easy way is to clean your oil pan to remove contaminants. I know its not fun but that's great insurance.
> Oil Pressure Gauge:
-- You can kook up a dial or a sensor then eyeball that or use some form of alarm watchdog.
Test that with solenoid connected to see what's happening with limited oiling.
-- I can tell you without solenoid on a good engine, the oil pressure tracks RPM from 15Psi all the way to 55Psi. Just what engines need.
-- Dry pistons are ok for a while until enough shavings pillup. ( YT "I do cars" shows postmortems: "forbidden glitter" contaminations)
- One day you unplug nasty solenoid, non-ferous glitter accumulate against shut valve.
- You reconnect the valve for fun. It gets jammed and waste your prized possession. You know who caused that but blame your actions on others.
- Don't mess with pump solenoid! Mine is positively staying shut off, no back tracking.
Does that help?
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-18-2023 at 05:50 PM.
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JCM_MB (12-18-2023)
12-18-2023 | 05:46 PM
#305
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 2,018
From: Maryland, United States
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
12-18-2023 | 05:52 PM
#306
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 2,018
From: Maryland, United States
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I have mentioned elsewhere that I had a Stage 2 tune on my SL400 and removed it because the car would momentarily lag/bog when going from off-throttle to light on-throttle, such as giving it a little gas after coasting. It would feel like it was momentarily stuck in a too high gear. But, since disconnecting the solenoid, I have re-loaded the Stage 2 file and the difference is AMAZING! No more lag or bogging. I don't really know how or why that would make a difference, but it has.
12-18-2023 | 06:14 PM
#307
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 6,277
Likes: 3,884
From: Silicon Valley
MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
FORWARD TO THE TOP...
@CaliBenzDriver really appreciate all your research and insights shared on this! Truly amazing this oil pump solenoid situation is just getting visibility after so many years since the M157 engine came out...
You mentioned these points below that have improved as a result of the unplug.... so that horrible LAG in 1st from a dead stop is finally gone after doing this?
The obsession with trans/adaptations all this time wasnt truly the issue causing the lag, it was the oil pump solenoid???
So better oil coverage for the motor AND the LAG removed are huge wins from this if I understand it correctly!
> PEDAL:
-- I need to relearn driving this car: I am not used to my car launching forward as soon as I touch the accelerator at a stop light. The response is very solid like a Tesla.
-- The more you press down the harder it pushes forward. What a concept!
-- Hesitations are gone: no mo jello.
It was caused by ECU idle timings matching the de-tuned engine.
You mentioned these points below that have improved as a result of the unplug.... so that horrible LAG in 1st from a dead stop is finally gone after doing this?
The obsession with trans/adaptations all this time wasnt truly the issue causing the lag, it was the oil pump solenoid???
So better oil coverage for the motor AND the LAG removed are huge wins from this if I understand it correctly!
> PEDAL:
-- I need to relearn driving this car: I am not used to my car launching forward as soon as I touch the accelerator at a stop light. The response is very solid like a Tesla.
-- The more you press down the harder it pushes forward. What a concept!
-- Hesitations are gone: no mo jello.
It was caused by ECU idle timings matching the de-tuned engine.
I have come to realize these are great cars with a few traps that de-tune overall performance. These games can be cancelled.
The tranny adaptations is like the importance of plug indexing on dry pistons... LOL
The lagy hesitations where entirely caused by poor fuel timings that match poor camshaft positioning.
ECU responds to its inputs: no cheating earns the best mixture.
Improvements are very gradual over about 1500Mi depending on engine pre-existing conditions. You'll know you're there when your car launches forward from 900Rpm... you'll be positively impressed!!!!
Other factors used to de-tune timings are CAN-C traffic jams. Follow links in my signature to your interest. Remove one pebble at the time is best to keep tab on what's what.
Get your engine running great, let your tranny learn to tango with it gradually. It does that very well by itself when conditions are fair. Then will reassess course.
Enjoy awesome ownership.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-18-2023 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Root cause
12-18-2023 | 06:40 PM
#308
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 6,277
Likes: 3,884
From: Silicon Valley
MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
NICE N EASY...
I have mentioned elsewhere that I had a Stage 2 tune on my SL400 and removed it because the car would momentarily lag/bog when going from off-throttle to light on-throttle, such as giving it a little gas after coasting.
It would feel like it was momentarily stuck in a too high gear. But, since disconnecting the solenoid, I have re-loaded the Stage 2 file and the difference is AMAZING!
No more lag or bogging. I don't really know how or why that would make a difference, but it has.
It would feel like it was momentarily stuck in a too high gear. But, since disconnecting the solenoid, I have re-loaded the Stage 2 file and the difference is AMAZING!
No more lag or bogging. I don't really know how or why that would make a difference, but it has.
The lag is exactly what poor mixture does.
The ECU is unable to make the engine re-accelerate after coasting.
When you squeeze the mushy pedal harder then you get delayed response until you reach a more favorable mixture area.
Perfect timings can be somewhat easy to reach. Engine needs clean Lambdas, tight tensioners and working VVT phasers... all cheap stuff!
Go burn some rubber!
+++ Elephant in the room...
The factory setup causes copious lag struggle to tweak tranny, muffler, cats, plugs, priceless injectors, valve cleaning, never mind pistons.
All along it's the ECU doing best efforts to keep clean mixtures.
When the VVT low pressure has them locked, the ECU has a hard time dialing cam timings for truly amazing low torque.
As a result HPFP proportional timings are unpredictable - The outcome is a conservative clean lean.
We need a fairly matched mixture all the way to idle RPM for good pickup.
Set the conditions and ECU will deliver power.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-18-2023 at 08:34 PM.
12-18-2023 | 07:29 PM
#309
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 363
Likes: 120
E63 AMG
If that were a risk, Mercedes wouldn't essentially say to ignore the condition.
For everyone worried about a stuck solenoid, by definition it is STUCK and connecting or disconnecting the wire is not going to change that. Remember, the normal state is normal/high pressure and only when the car is ON does the solenoid change to low pressure. That's the failsafe. If your solenoid is stuck in the low pressure state, then it's going to stay in that state.
For everyone worried about a stuck solenoid, by definition it is STUCK and connecting or disconnecting the wire is not going to change that. Remember, the normal state is normal/high pressure and only when the car is ON does the solenoid change to low pressure. That's the failsafe. If your solenoid is stuck in the low pressure state, then it's going to stay in that state.
So the danger only exists for those who decide to plug the harness back in, thus resuming normal lo/hi pressure operation and once again facing a potential for the solenoid(s) getting stuck due to contaminant build up around the small openings in them?
Last edited by CZ 75; 12-18-2023 at 07:37 PM.
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12-19-2023 | 01:24 AM
#310
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 6,277
Likes: 3,884
From: Silicon Valley
MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
100% 👍IMPORTANT LOGIC👍
Ahhh ok I think I get what you're saying:
--1-- Unplugging it will not send it into a stuck open state after the fact.
+++ EXACTLY!
It would have had to be like that from the get go hence why folks are getting engine failures due to the solenoid(s) getting stuck during normal operation WITH the sensor functioning. Correct?
+++ EXACTLY!
--2-- So in a sense those of us unplugging are eliminating the possibility of a stuck solenoid in the future by forcing things to always be in hi pressure mode only?
+++ THAT'S THE CORE VALUE!!
--3-- So the danger only exists for those who decide to plug the harness back in, thus resuming normal lo/hi pressure operation and once again facing a potential for the solenoid(s) getting stuck due to contaminant build up around the small openings in them?
+++ EXACTLY -- You can write 1 sentence parapgrah: you're a certified geek
--1-- Unplugging it will not send it into a stuck open state after the fact.
+++ EXACTLY!
It would have had to be like that from the get go hence why folks are getting engine failures due to the solenoid(s) getting stuck during normal operation WITH the sensor functioning. Correct?
+++ EXACTLY!
--2-- So in a sense those of us unplugging are eliminating the possibility of a stuck solenoid in the future by forcing things to always be in hi pressure mode only?
+++ THAT'S THE CORE VALUE!!
--3-- So the danger only exists for those who decide to plug the harness back in, thus resuming normal lo/hi pressure operation and once again facing a potential for the solenoid(s) getting stuck due to contaminant build up around the small openings in them?
+++ EXACTLY -- You can write 1 sentence parapgrah: you're a certified geek
Your detailed understanding of this thread has lead you to capture a great formula.
I like well crafted statements because they are gems.
It's like gun training: its all good until you do this and that then if it was loaded, it fires.
I am trying to teach how to make friend with that cheap valve. You've laid it all down. 👏
Today I was thinking this hand-made bug may well be a perfect use case for Hybrid boost off the stop line. If it was I'd hope Bosch to enable squirters at 1200.RPM not 3500
Read the top quote again to feel better about your smart choice. Help us figure other issues.
> HAPPY HOLIDAYS ✌️
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-19-2023 at 01:45 AM.
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CZ 75 (12-19-2023)
12-19-2023 | 02:06 AM
#311
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2022
Posts: 67
Likes: 40
From: New Zealand
2015 ML63
When you add evidences up... your engine had a bottom end job, more likely a repair than a casual inspection.
Now you want to run the experimental oil pump mod, right?
Again this is not a miracle cure: it may HELP OR HURT your engine. Tasos fixes blown Mercedes all day.
What is the runing condition of this engine (CPS, VVT, Tensioners, service, oil)?
MB connectors use a dual lock. The first one has disappeared thanks to the tech who also used touch MB sealant.
Your brocken lock is pretty safe as is, no problem... they don't just pop.
Now you want to run the experimental oil pump mod, right?
Again this is not a miracle cure: it may HELP OR HURT your engine. Tasos fixes blown Mercedes all day.
What is the runing condition of this engine (CPS, VVT, Tensioners, service, oil)?
MB connectors use a dual lock. The first one has disappeared thanks to the tech who also used touch MB sealant.
Your brocken lock is pretty safe as is, no problem... they don't just pop.
My 2015 M157 has 60k miles. This year it has had all new CPS and Cam Solenoids. Timing chains/tensioners replaced under warranty five years ago (due to secondary chain failure). First two oil change intervals at 12k miles then regular changes between 3k and 6k miles after that. Also engine had new short block at 42k miles under MB warranty (I'm sure you can guess why).
So, have gone for a quick highway blast this evening with the mod applied... most noticeable difference is how quickly oil operating temperature is reached, at least twice as fast. Improved acceleration under 3k rpm is noticeable. Engine seems to run quieter/smoother at idle? Could detect transmission was adapting to the new setup the first few miles, seems good now.
Last edited by jcarsnz; 12-19-2023 at 02:12 AM.
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12-19-2023 | 02:21 AM
#312
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 363
Likes: 120
E63 AMG
Yes siry: congratulations + many thanks.This so perfectly matches our matter.
Your detailed understanding of this thread has lead you to capture a great formula.
I like well crafted statements because they are gems.
It's like gun training: its all good until you do this and that then if it was loaded, it fires.
I am trying to teach how to make friend with that cheap valve. You've laid it all down. 👏
Today I was thinking this hand-made bug may well be a perfect use case for Hybrid boost off the stop line. If it was I'd hope Bosch to enable squirters at 1200.RPM not 3500
Read the top quote again to feel better about your smart choice. Help us figure other issues.
> HAPPY HOLIDAYS ✌️
Your detailed understanding of this thread has lead you to capture a great formula.
I like well crafted statements because they are gems.
It's like gun training: its all good until you do this and that then if it was loaded, it fires.
I am trying to teach how to make friend with that cheap valve. You've laid it all down. 👏
Today I was thinking this hand-made bug may well be a perfect use case for Hybrid boost off the stop line. If it was I'd hope Bosch to enable squirters at 1200.RPM not 3500
Read the top quote again to feel better about your smart choice. Help us figure other issues.
> HAPPY HOLIDAYS ✌️
Last edited by CZ 75; 12-19-2023 at 02:29 AM.
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CaliBenzDriver (12-19-2023)
12-19-2023 | 07:36 AM
#313
Thread Starter
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Likes: 698
04 E55 AMG (totaled), 07 S550 4Matic, 14 E63S
From what I’ve gathered yes, unless your solenoid(s) are stuck in the low oil flow position?
Which begs the question, is there any simple way to verify that the solenoids are functioning before unplugging(I’ve already unplugged lol, but asking for others)?
Secondly, everyone that’s done this including me, are we just keeping our fingers crossed and hoping that our engines don’t blow up? Which begs the additional question, if stuck, how soon would the engine fail?
Which begs the question, is there any simple way to verify that the solenoids are functioning before unplugging(I’ve already unplugged lol, but asking for others)?
Secondly, everyone that’s done this including me, are we just keeping our fingers crossed and hoping that our engines don’t blow up? Which begs the additional question, if stuck, how soon would the engine fail?
Last edited by kevm14; 12-19-2023 at 07:42 AM.
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12-19-2023 | 08:04 AM
#314
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 2,018
From: Maryland, United States
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Remember, there is the low pressure state (2 bar) caused by activating the solenoid and the NORMAL state (4 bar) when the solenoid is deactivated (off) at higher RPM. Disconnecting the solenoid, oil pressure rises linearly from minimal pressure at idle to a maximum of 4 bar (~60 psi), versus a two-stage rise from 2 bar to 4 bar suddenly at 3500 RPM.
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12-19-2023 | 10:46 AM
#315
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Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 69
Likes: 39
From: FL
2015 E63 AMG S
If it was stuck, then it was already stuck before you unplugged it. The solenoid can't force it closed - that's the spring's job. You'd hope that vibration and thermal cycles would at least give a stuck solenoid a fighting chance of closing. Certainly, a better chance than if the solenoid is constantly tugging the valve open all the time.
12-19-2023 | 10:52 AM
#316
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 69
Likes: 39
From: FL
2015 E63 AMG S
The engine oil is conditioned.
It's both heated and cooled through a heat exchanger with coolant that is regulated by the ECU through a smart thermostat.
Some engines even feature an additional oil Tstat.
Let your idle come down after start to circulate air out of conduits all the way back to HPFP oil port.
What sort of oil do you use??
I believe it's better to spray pistons with cool oil than to overheat them without oil, right?
It's both heated and cooled through a heat exchanger with coolant that is regulated by the ECU through a smart thermostat.
Some engines even feature an additional oil Tstat.
Let your idle come down after start to circulate air out of conduits all the way back to HPFP oil port.
What sort of oil do you use??
I believe it's better to spray pistons with cool oil than to overheat them without oil, right?
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CaliBenzDriver (12-19-2023)
12-19-2023 | 11:12 AM
#317
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Likes: 120
E63 AMG
I reset my adaptations by unplugging the battery overnight. Started the car up and it went straight to idle. Also noticed that the rpm's were slightly fluctuating, 100rpm. Is this normal?
Last edited by CZ 75; 12-19-2023 at 11:15 AM.
12-19-2023 | 11:20 AM
#318
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 2,018
From: Maryland, United States
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
If you are uncertain about it, just scan for codes. There should be no codes other than the P06DA00 DTC. I'm not sure simply disconnecting the battery resets everything. Some modules can only be reset using XENTRY or higher-level scan tools.
I remember doing a transmission reset on my 2004 SL500 years ago using XENTRY/DAS and the car shifted like crap until it adjusted back to where it was before.
12-19-2023 | 11:25 AM
#319
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From: US
First of all, thanks for all the insights into this matter! Secondly, what oil would you recommend to use? I'm in FL and temps are usually hot, now in winter OAT in the mornings can get down to just above 38F to 60F. As an idea, when I cold start my E63 in the morning, Oil Temp is typically 60F-69F. In non-winter months, its usually sitting around 80F on a cold start.
1 - my vehicle (not a turbo charged as M278/M157) was drinking about 1 to 1 1/2 quart per 10K miles service. Now, it does not drink a visible amount in the dipstick in a @5/6k miles service. Was it the brand, or the weight change? No clue, but I am happy with that anyway.
2 - in a separate post @CaliBenzDriver pointed to the Mobil 1 0W40 pseudo W40 properties, more like a high W30.
3 - advised to always wait for the engine to reach operating temperature before having fun, with more emphasis on those with turbo. In particular, to never floor a relatively cold engine. The turbine wheel will touch the casing in seconds and will shorten the turbo life considerably.
4 - hinted that 0W40 is recommended and tested of course for "ECO" regulations, but using 5W40 or even 10W40 weather-dependent was better. These engines are already tested for those weights as well (see manual)
On the mod being discussed here, I finally did it last Saturday to the E350 (the ML is next) and I can confirm what everyone has been sharing, and after 200 miles I can tell
1 - quieter idle
2 - snappier throttle response even parked (now even more careful not to rev the engine when cold). --> The spongy feeling is GONE.
3 - continuous acceleration w/o hesitation from a stop. My wife started asking if I was in a hurry because I seemed to accelerate faster from the stops.
4 - smoother up/down shifting
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CaliBenzDriver (12-19-2023)
12-19-2023 | 11:25 AM
#320
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Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 363
Likes: 120
E63 AMG
Normal? Probably for what you did. I think it was posted elsewhere NOT to do that as it doesn't offer any real benefit and will just delay the adaptations of all the other modules affected. Or...maybe not.
If you are uncertain about it, just scan for codes. There should be no codes other than the P06DA00 DTC. I'm not sure simply disconnecting the battery resets everything. Some modules can only be reset using XENTRY or higher-level scan tools.
I remember doing a transmission reset on my 2004 SL500 years ago using XENTRY/DAS and the car shifted like crap until it adjusted back to where it was before.
If you are uncertain about it, just scan for codes. There should be no codes other than the P06DA00 DTC. I'm not sure simply disconnecting the battery resets everything. Some modules can only be reset using XENTRY or higher-level scan tools.
I remember doing a transmission reset on my 2004 SL500 years ago using XENTRY/DAS and the car shifted like crap until it adjusted back to where it was before.
12-19-2023 | 11:47 AM
#321
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 2,018
From: Maryland, United States
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
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JCM_MB (12-19-2023)
12-19-2023 | 11:49 AM
#322
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 2,018
From: Maryland, United States
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
That is interesting. Initial idle control is intended to heat up the catalysts quickly, so the "reset" may have affected the temp sensor for your cats. It will be interesting if it stays that way.
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CaliBenzDriver (12-19-2023)
12-19-2023 | 11:55 AM
#323
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 363
Likes: 120
E63 AMG
Ya I'll see if it changes the next time I fire her up from cold. I let the car run for a couple of minutes before I started driving. Drove very gingerly the entire time. It heated up to normal in the normal span of time that it usually does.
12-19-2023 | 03:00 PM
#324
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 6,277
Likes: 3,884
From: Silicon Valley
MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
TIP No3: REBOOT!
There you have this good step figured out and practiced already: REBOOT YOUR CAR!
We are going to de-glitch your chassis a bit as follows:
-- BRAKES "HOLD":
Do you see it being moody? Sometimes easy to get some time you need to mush the brakes to get a HOLD...?
-- REAR KICKS:
Do you sometimes feel your rear is kicking sideways ?
Sometimes the same roads feel smooth sometimes rocky?
-- CAR BEEP:
Locking the car makes a short beep.
Sometimes that beep is longer sometimes its real short like "peep".
The above conditions are easy to recognize without doing any instrumenting. This is actually your sleepless Front SAM adding CAN lag to your all data including our fav VIP: ESP/ECU/TCU.
The quick fix No3 is to unplug all batteries (Main/aux) for 15mn. (Do NOT short (+ to -) to speed up discharge).
Rebooting twice a month does not dump any configuration settings or adaptations. It resets buggy software stack in CAN-bus Gateways to perform faster as intended.
While the battery GND is disconnected from the car you can run an AGM Voltage equalization charge to lower impedance. Disconnected prevents frying cheap Audio AMP 16V Caps).
(Honest caps are rated 35V!!). Clean your poor engine-Chassis main strap to lower alternator impedance as well.
This cancels the glitch factory that upsets computers REBOOTS are intended to temporarily fix.
All this easy stuff is happy holidays for your chassis.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-19-2023 at 03:04 PM.
12-19-2023 | 03:19 PM
#325
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 6,277
Likes: 3,884
From: Silicon Valley
MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
MOTUL is next...
First of all, thanks for all the insights into this matter! Secondly, what oil would you recommend to use? I'm in FL and temps are usually hot, now in winter OAT in the mornings can get down to just above 38F to 60F. As an idea, when I cold start my E63 in the morning, Oil Temp is typically 60F-69F. In non-winter months, its usually sitting around 80F on a cold start.
My go-to oil expert is @juanmor40 reference with MOTUL X-CESS 10W40 that is stable and not easily vaporized like amazing Mobil-1 5W40.
I've just order 2 gallons to go along that new filter I got with new stab-links.
