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thank you. This I understoood, just did not understand why the specified value was less than 50.
apparently 50rpms or less and you can continue down the diagnostic pathway to check the oil valve. Essentially: shut off the engine to move forward in the algorithm
I see you get this now - cheers and let us know what you find in a week or two with driving feedback
Joined the Unplug Club yesterday. Initially had very hard shifts. Reset the trans, went on a 2 hr drive and everything seems pretty normal. Response from stop is MUCH better...even in C. May disconnect Sprint Booster.
Joined the Unplug Club yesterday. Initially had very hard shifts.
Reset the trans, went on a 2 hr drive and everything seems pretty normal.
Response from stop is MUCH better...even in C.
May disconnect Sprint Booster.
You need an ounce of patience for full maximum benefits to develop: ECU+TCU. Normal oiling is more than "un- Plug'N Play" ✌️
> NOW right from the begining the first transformation is from the tensioners and VVT phasers working well instead of locked.
> LATER about 1KMi cylinders blow-by is reduced (vacuum brakes booster improves!) and cleaner Lambdas help build super precise trim maps down to near idle RPM.
> ACCELERATOR response now is strong and accurate right from idle with diminishing hesitation as trims get improved.
-->Before response was laggy with spongy pedal caused by lean trims (bad MAP + VVT Lock).
-->Now pedal is super responsive and hard (zero sponge) either linear when you drive slowly in traffic or exponential when you press quickly the power soars: the car launches from idle.
-->The crappy pedal struggle was NOT from pedal software but from ECU inabilities to produce power from low RPM.
> GREAT MIXTURE:
-- The ECU only gives the engine what it already knows it can handle.
-- To have amazing power at RPM when turbos quick in, you need good mixture below that all the way to idle.
- Before response was funky poor all the way to 1500.RPM.
- Now mixture is super nimble.
-- Great power is not brute-force rich trims, it needs everything involved:
HPFP valve,
spark advance,
spray timings,
VVT,
TCU...
all mapped to work together with fine granularity. Every cylinder is individually tracked and served: that's a lot of data to optimize. Little by little performance is restored from each dry runned cylinders that begin to seal better as rings cleanup.
Of course now you can step on it and it flies under great control. This whole exercise is to work with the beast to let it rediscover lost tricks. Give your cylinders 500Miles to lube up well and 1KMi for ECU->TCU->ECU->TCU to work interactively under improved laws.
You'll notice the heads clunkiness is reduced by lube film over lobes and by very fine timings of HPFP control valve.
> Great bang for the bucks:
This the season to spend a little on performance tune up list. Here is my TOP LIST of high maintenance parts that easily de-tune output.
These CHEAP PARTS are what directly impact your accurate power map.
Hit the nail with one easy job:
Weak secondary tensioners
Carbonized upstream Lambda
Overgapped spark plugs
(Cooked Thermostat)
(Toasted CPS)
Besides all general favs: (Oil, ATF, Mounts!, ...)
Let the cylinders seal themselves up to stop burning oil before renewing clean Lambda... like 5kMi.
Enjoy the Holidays with more power + patience while your engine tunes itself.
+++ WAIT!
I do not advocate to reset ECU/TCU to rush progress.
The engine rings need time to clean themselves up. Can't wack data then everything's fresh.... I don't even recommend cleaning treatment (debris).
> ULTIMATE EFFICIENCY:
-- The recipe to get outstanding timings is to cancel as many chaos factors as possible.
-- X86/Arms stacks are de-tuned exactly the same way: (slow + hot ) = poor efficiency.
-- EFFICIENCY is the best way to make performance soar: [less HEAT + more OUTPUT]!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-14-2023 at 06:15 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I think your engines burn more oil than the M276. Even so, my 2015 SL Operator's Manual says something like 0.8L/1000km is acceptable. Really? Almost 1 qt per 600 miles? I would have a hard time with that. Thankfully, my oil consumption is negligible, maybe ½ qt in 5000 miles.
I owned this car for 8 years. Most of the time long distance fast German Autobahn driving. I don't have the 155mph limiter.
I do the scheduled oil changes every year, never had to top it off in between.
I drive approximately 6 to 7k miles/year.
I had oil in the harness from cps, changed thermostat and turbo coolant lines.
Sofar so good. I frequently check cps and solenoid plugs for new oil.
Car seems to run just fine, no hiccups to report.
I hope I don't regret this post, knock on wood.
I posted my review of it this morning.
I'm happy with it, I think it's most noticeable for me, cruising at 60 in sport mode, and flooring it. It just seems to come on so much more instant than while I was much of a softer gain of power before
I hope I covered everything in this post, I gave credit to the engineers, Cali and s-paradi. thanks guys
I'm happy with it, I think it's most noticeable for me, cruising at 60 in sport mode, and flooring it. It just seems to come on so much more instant than while I was much of a softer gain of power before
I hope I covered everything in this post, I gave credit to the engineers, Cali and s-paradi. thanks guys
Great video! I appreciate you presented the complexity surrounding this simple fix.
Pulling the plug is easy, understanding the intricacies is truly interesting.
Taking knowledge sanity to the masses:
How about helping to clean the SMOG from so much needlessly BURNED OIL?
This limited oiling feature comes from Robert Bosch in COUNTLESS engine controls worldwide.
Scope based on benefits:
Engine known to burn oil: MB, VW, BMW, TOYOTA, HONDA, FORD, GM, ....
Engine with carbonized valves: this helps identify oil burners unless Toyota dual injected.
Engine with VVT Gears need proper operation oil pressure.
The above scope needs to check how dual-rate pump is controlled by solenoid. We positively know how M276/8 solenoid work therefore we can disconnect it.
Beware... other makes may use opposite reverse logic that requires active solenoid to gain normal pressure. We can expect things to get blurred with mixed logic and associating Limp-mode to prevent anyone from cancelling "limited pressure".... obviously testing speaks the true reality.
I enjoy troubleshooting conditional issues. It's not often something so transformative gets untangled. Understanding all the pieces of the puzzle is exciting to see it benefit widely.
This is probably one of the most important threads going on MBWorld.org.
I am ready to do this fix on my SL63, but I’m Going to wait until next week after my pulsation damper comes in… I’d like the rest of the car to be in good working order before making the change so I can drive it the way it’s meant to be driven.
Watched the video and saw the graphs of the oil pump actuations, and would love to see those pictures here on this thread, if that is what is referenced in the statement above.
M276 research credit due to CaliBenzDriver and S-Prihadi. But, they have M276 powered vehicles. As far as I know I was the first to try it on an M157, which was the very question I posed in my original post.
Thanks for using my pictures without crediting me.
.... besides I think you're also thread starter, right? Thank you @kevm14 for trying this and hosting this topic.
Nothing ever perfect, we have this Bosch nightmare as example. They messed the software, Mercedes engines run their ECU modules... we foot the bill, for that amazing man made struggle for idiots Perfect!
If i had my hands in video # 2: I would focus on describing all the countless benefits and not so much the step of how to pull what plug. I discourage teaching people to pull plugs. Instead I favor educating folks.
> BENEFITS of undoing this game feature :
eliminated vaporized oil SMOG
more reliable engines life
limited abnormal engine wear
reduced maintenance necessary
normal driveability at 900.Rpm
improved shifting below 2000.Rpm
reliable Cylinders/Pistons/Rings use
Our target is to improve conditions so that ECU/TCU logic can build honest realistic performance maps.
> "MB performance with Toyota reliability"
Other unnecessary issues are setup with marginal GND and CAN-Bus. Similary this impacts normal ownership expectations. Not 5mn basic fixes!
No reason these great cars need to rival with legendary FIATS. Some of us can tweak things to a new normal.
Together we can make good things happen as a team of good ppl. Let's focus our positive energy on issues instead of individual egos. We each bring something towards the community's bottom line.
Sanity is restored for all literate members.
+++ Thread is linked: @kenneyd YT Video does reference source threads 👍 screencap showing source links ✌️
+++ Forward :
I propose we focus our energy on doing more positive stuff like that :
Quick question… on my SL I can easily reach the connector from the top - how does the connector pop off? Looking at the picture above, I cannot tell right off. Thanks is advance!
Quick question… on my SL I can easily reach the connector from the top - how does the connector pop off? Looking at the picture above, I cannot tell right off. Thanks is advance!
Yep… whoops. I watched the video but didn’t get to that part… got interrupted.
Might be easier to go from underneath.
One thing I noticed when putting my hand down there, there’s definitely signs of oil leaks. I know that the timing cover has been done, etc. Guess I have some cleaning to do.
Same exact mech as a cam magnet/solenoid plug. Slide up/ out the white part (not shown on this pic) and then squeeze white tab and tilt slightly away from white side and pull directly off. I did mine from the top side using a small s hook like a pic. From below will be much easier and will allow inspection as needed.
Last edited by Baltistyle; 12-16-2023 at 07:23 AM.
Same exact mech as a cps. Slide up/ out the white part (not shown on this pic) and then squeeze white tab and tilt slightly away from white side and pull directly off. I did mine from the top side using a small s hook like a pic. From below will be much easier and will allow inspection as needed.
Until now I did not mind this connection to stay opened.
Are you saying this connectors matches the CPS Pigtails?
I have a few left overs V6/8 difference
spare eBay goodies
Pull wiring out of pigtail cord
silicone the unused holes
use M/F connectors as plugs
Zip tie down harness side
+++ is not CPS style plugs!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-15-2023 at 10:07 PM.
Reason: WRONG!!
Try it. However, I suspect it will trigger a cell and put the car in diminished power mode to protect the motor because the ecu can't see it vs it getting in the stuck position and not throwing a code.
I'm of similar mindset as you in that oil pressure under no load is not a bad thing.
It doesn't set off any CEL, it does throw a code, but a background code. The technical service bulletin starts that is a none essential part. Also in the unplugged and off position you have 100% oil flow all the time instead of losing half of your oil flow. This is the reason your seeing cylinder wall damage and other oiling related issues.
12-14-2023, 09:35 AM
