Oil pump solenoids








-- Calcium is through the roof (SN!)
-- Viscosity 13 are very similar
Personally I would concider using cleaner API-SP formula for "LSPI protection".
Some contamination will remain during first oil change that will serve as a rince cycle.
Find the best oil that meets your criterias:
- Group 3-Synt. or 4-PAO
- Viscosity grade: 5W-40 or 5W-50
- Formulation SN or SP
- MB Approved or greater
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 22, 2025 at 06:10 PM.
-- Calcium is through the roof (SN!)
-- Viscosity 13 are very similar
Personally I would concider using cleaner API-SP formula for "LSPI protection".
Some contamination will remain during first oil change that will serve as a rince cycle.
Find the best oil that meets your criterias:
- Group 3-Synt. or 4-PAO
- Viscosity grade: 5W-40 or 5W-50
- Formulation SN or SP
- MB Approved or greater
Pennzoil it is for you Cali?




I think @JettaRed has tried the PennzOil/Shell with satisfaction.
I was surprised by similar high level of calcium in both your oil samples. It would be better to stay with one formulation either SN or the cleaner SP. These oils lubricate & clean with a different mix of chemicals.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 22, 2025 at 08:13 PM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG












Mr. Goodwrench may have worked on the car.

Ford, GM and others use it in some of their connectors.
Mercedes has their version.
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/MB-002...RoC-PcQAvD_BwE
Since tech and owner reported it as having “grease” consistency I.e soft. And visually, it looks like what that Dielectric Grease looks like once it has aged a bit. Consistency is similar to Vaseline, see pics below
Good Luck!
Last edited by crconsulting; Apr 24, 2025 at 11:51 AM.
Last edited by dspecialistb; Apr 24, 2025 at 03:05 PM.




-- 2-pins VVT Solenoids (aka. "magnets") are the ok actuators. Located on timing cover front.
-- 3-pins Camshaft Position Sensors (CPS) Mfg. by Continental are the failed ones. Located on valve covers top. Use pigtails!!
Using dielectric grease on hot ECU related connectors brings out question...
-- Will melted grease travel around hot engine harness towards ECU like engine oil does??
-- Is dielectric grease helping or hurting low-voltage connections ??
In the long run... I have a preference for dry metal-to-metal connections without any anti-oxide oily film. When "protective film" hardens, the connection get marginal.
This is what happens with DeOxit magic spray. It helps then hurt to need repeated applications.
We know the hot/cold changes the qualities of thin film. Granted silicone can take 1500F temps...

> This can be a split topic:
Does protecting ECU connections with silicone hurt reliability??
Personally I think it does. Protective film can become an extra maintenance item.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 24, 2025 at 05:22 PM.




Control heat at the source...
then FAN can stay OFF with normal heat ECU can manage.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 24, 2025 at 05:16 PM.





LOL!
As far as using it in this application….You may not have gotten my joke about Mr. Goodwrench (old term for factory trained GM mechanic) who probably had worked on the MB mentioned in the FB post.

Several years back GM and Ford (and others) used to use Dielectric grease on their exposed connectors such as parking and brake lights, etc... These connectors weren’t as sophisticated as what we see today, as far as sealing and would corrode over time. MB nowadays does a decent job of sealing their connectors. (Though that grease works well on spark plug boots). I believe that was probably the handiwork of an independent or DIY’er, who probably applied dielectric grease inside the connector.
Agree, It’s the wrong product for this application and we definitely need to keep Mr. Goodwrench away from our MB’s

Cheers!

RIP Mr. GOODWRENCH!
Last edited by crconsulting; Apr 24, 2025 at 06:46 PM.
i am contemplating a TCU tune but am on the fence. Do I need it? Defintely not, but I have FOMO of having power that I can’t access in the lower gears. Opinions and experiences welcome!
Last edited by dspecialistb; Apr 25, 2025 at 01:07 PM.
I really don't understand your FOMO comments about missing out on power.




i am contemplating a TCU tune but am on the fence. Do I need it? Defintely not, but I have FOMO of having power that I can’t access in the lower gears. Opinions and experiences welcome!
Concentrate on shaping up the engine so ECU can gains fine throttle control. That's will transform tranny work to near perfect.
What sucks buckets about powertrain... :
- the wrong gear choice: 5th gear at 20mph
- the shift timings: delays bangs gears up/down
- the sloppy shifts: slipery clutch instead of instantaneous
Sloppy slippery:
Given enough slippery long shifts the fancy "gas saving" thin blue ATF gets heated up ultra thin. Controlling clutch pressure becomes increasingly challenging.
Normal shifts happen seemlessly where gearbox keeps engine Rpm in the zone for it to run well.
Normal gearbox shifts keeps engine running around 2000Rpm with great ability to rev up. It can readily hang on to 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears as needed.
Shifts can easily be delayed by throttle pressure to Rev up engine much higher.
Throttle doesn't need to be floored to redline. It can easily control consistent shifts at 2500, 3000, 4000 ... awesome driveability control by accelerator pedal.
This precise throttle is made possible by self-adapted matching fuel maps. Chaos makes Rpm control uneasy to challenge tranny.
If you recognize your tranny is struggling, take it easy with your high-power shifts. Deal with engine conditions.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 25, 2025 at 03:00 PM.
From my understanding is that the torque limits are lower than what the (tuned) ECU can provide within the first 3 or 4 gears, so the TCU tune would raise the limits in earlier gears. Now, I have definitely read conflicting information about TCU tunes so I am taking my time making the decision. Here are a few blurbs from various reputable tuners on TCU tuning:





