Here are 2 videos measuring oil pressure with the test kit. 50 psi was the highest pressure reached. In the first video, I had the video going before starting the car, so initially I thought I plugged into the wrong port because there was NO PRESSURE measured. That could be because I had air in the pressure gauge hose that had to compress. I did not bleed the hose because I basically didn't want oil squirting all over. At idle, I have about 20 psi. At 1500 RPM I have 45 psi. It doesn't go much above that.
Another thing, when I scanned my car with my LAUNCH Creader Elite BENZ using the OBDII function, the DTC is not detected, though it is when I use the Mercedes scan.
Another thing, when I scanned my car with my LAUNCH Creader Elite BENZ using the OBDII function, the DTC is not detected, though it is when I use the Mercedes scan.
The Launch CReader is a great piece of kit for Benz community with easy access to many coding variables (turn signals, sunroof, ECO, Accelerator pedal style,...) - So much power to tweak is a bit overwhelming
Your scanner is reporting 15.3Volts... that seems above threshold, right?
Are you hooked up to an external power supply for scanning purposes?
15.3V !!! I am running on 14.6V (14.4V to 14.9V)
These cars voltage regulation can get pretty amazing given all the components involved.
I only drive with voltage/amps displayed.
Not necessarily a physical difference, buy rather a tuning difference, which may require oil pressure readings to affect some other control. Back in the day, there was a tuner for VW/Audi that used cat temps to affect other controls, such as timing, boost, fueling, etc. The same may be true her. Apparently there are two versions of the M157, the performance pack vs. non-performance pack.
For information-sake, mine is a performance pack M157.
I would have expected a little more pressure out of it especially at higher rpm. I think the minimum spec is about 50 psi above 3500. That’s across the M276, M278, and M157 engines.
Mechanical gauges usually do not have much of a lag to show a reading, though it is somewhat dependent on what the oil gallery sees in terms of flow/pressure. The filter housing is some distance from the pump so there is that.
Thanks for conducting the test and posting results!
I would have expected a little more pressure out of it especially at higher rpm. I think the minimum spec is about 50 psi above 3500. That’s across the M276, M278, and M157 engines.
Mechanical gauges usually do not have much of a lag to show a reading, though it is somewhat dependent on what the oil gallery sees in terms of flow/pressure. The filter housing is some distance from the pump so there is that.
I was expecting more pressure, too. I wouldn't think load would make a difference, but the car was in Park. The oil test port is the location identified in the WIS procedures when testing oil pressure. I may try it again with the car in Neutral or take a drive to see if it matters. I am also using a $30 test kit.
Video#2 makes it more obvious we are on a different page regarding this oil pump solenoid.
Tasos stresses that the former gear pumps and the vains pumps are not to be compared.
The pump input shaft is rotating directly in magnesium and aluminum and after 300kKM it wears out during starting with thicker oils.
Thing is no mater what, these engines are started on nomal pressure until ECU commands low pressure, shortly after starting. To me the starting comp is about equal.
Ultimately Tasos race track activities dont benefit with this mod because WOT is always normal full pressure anyway, nothing more & nothing less, right?
The missing part is about driveability issues, slow-poke accelerator, dry cylinders, crankcase pressure, vaporized oil,...
Nothing really new. Same message. Cold or thick oil will stress pump more. He's not recommending to disconnect or connect. Old style pumps are different from current pumps. Up to the owner.
From what Tasos has indicated so far I'm happy for my plug to remain disconnected. I target 7500km oil changes, and while I experience colder temps in winter my car is always garaged, would never approach freezing in there. Loving the engine temperature after a long run, today was 30C/86F and the garage temperature was significantly cooler. A night and day difference. Feels like there is more torque up to 3000rpm but I don't think my car is any faster with the plug disconnected. Oil temps increase much faster during normal 'warm-up' driving, as I've mentioned previously.
He refers to the M113k when talking about not comparing pumps and he is right in this case as the M113k uses a gear style pump however the M272 and M273 engines use vane style pumps without pressure control solenoids and I'm not aware of pump failures being a common occurrence in those models.
From what Tasos has indicated so far I'm happy for my plug to remain disconnected.
I target 7500km oil changes, and while I experience colder temps in winter my car is always garaged, would never approach freezing in there. Loving the engine temperature after a long run, today was 30C/86F and the garage temperature was significantly cooler. A night and day difference.
Feels like there is more torque up to 3000rpm but I don't think my car is any faster with the plug disconnected.
Oil temps increase much faster during normal 'warm-up' driving, as I've mentioned previously.
I noticed the same difference in garage temperature with normal oiling.
The oiling is doing a normal job at removing pistons heat as it gets produced.
Oil is able to help seal cleaner loose rings. It no longer gets vaporized randomly over dry pistons.
These cars are plenty fast enough, now they are more responsive.
The engine is more predictable with solid torque. After a while the ECU/TCU adopt agreement to operate in unison and quit hunting after wrong ratios.
The engine low end becomes solid.
The tranny work is no longer goofy.
Temps are much better regulated.
(Note: can we tweak the TempGauge in IC Module with CReader ??)
(Note: can we tweak the TempGauge in IC Module with CReader ??)
Not sure what you want to do, but I suspect the answer is "No" with Creader. These Mercedes-specific scanners may be able to do limited tweaking (such as lowering top speed or reseting certain modules), but are not really capable of enabling hidden features -- that's what @BenzNinja does.
If you want this, he needs to enable the AMG menu for non-AMG cars.
I don't understand why he's on a tangent for the vane style oil pump. I mean, I know he is focused on it because it's not the best style of pump for racing type applications. But the whole theory of higher oil pressure leading to oil pump wear or something - that's ridiculous. Well let me be more precise - the whole theory that letting the oil pump run the native amount of pressure, instead of a reduced pressure, is a concern for oil pump life, is ridiculous, and IMO, is totally outweighed by all the other downsides of running with reduced pressure. If we were talking about running a modified relief to force higher pressure, now the oil pump is running outside of its design parameters. But it is NOT outside of its design parameters if you just disconnect the solenoid.
And furthermore, NOTHING in the original design indicates that the purpose of the valve is to reduce wear on the oil pump or something. It is 100% for fuel economy.
I also don't understand how the solenoid state affects the pump at all. I would think restricted oil flow would make the pump work harder. But, apparently that would contradict the whole claim of reducing power consumption, so I don't know what I am talking about.
I know it's kinda weird seeing above 15V...
I trust what the car display more than what CReader shows in its upper left corner.
Double-checked this morning. Creader is still showing 15+V, but iCarsoft shows ~14.5V and my multimeter shows the same. So, the Creader voltage reading is unreliable. Also, I confirmed once again that the P06DA00 DTC is not detected by a generic OBDII scan.
The first image is using the Mercedes program. The second image is using the generic OBDII function. The third image is the voltage reading from iCarsoft.
Tried to pull the plug on my W166 yesterday but couldn't get the connector off. I was able to pull back the grey clip but it didn't want to come off. I was afraid of breaking it and having to plug it off like TomZVB had to as I'm not talented enough to do that job!
If there is anyone in Alberta, Canada that is willing to lend a hand I will provide beers!!
I helped my brother in law unplug on his new 2017 GLS550. It was stubborn but believe it or not he sprayed a little WD-40 on the plug and it unplugged easily. Go figure. So try that. You need to snap the gray lock tab away from the engine then gently squeeze and pull.
