Oil pump solenoids
I've got to believe the RPM speed is a variable in the code and not hard-coded. But, I'm not a software engineer. Using the RPM value as a variable may add milliseconds of processing delay over a hard-coded value, so maybe the folks at Bosch did write 3500 RPM into the code. Changing that may be impossible without having the source code.
Last edited by JettaRed; Jan 18, 2024 at 12:04 PM. Reason: Corrected the RPM threshold.




I've got to believe the RPM speed is a variable in the code and not hard-coded. But, I'm not a software engineer. Using the RPM value as a variable may add milliseconds of processing delay over a hard-coded value, so maybe the folks at Bosch did write 3500 RPM into the code. Changing that may be impossible without having the source code.












In fact what you intuitively brush on is exactly what makes these engines laggy slow-pokes!
Unfortunately the solenoid status and VVT management have no software connection where in reality VVT depend on oil pressure ie. solenoid activity, right?




Bosch likely delivers the hardware, the programming instructions, and some skeleton software (examples). MB programs the hardware. If the program has the set points for the oil control solenoid as variables, they could be changed to another set point.




Bosch likely delivers the hardware, the programming instructions, and some skeleton software (examples). MB programs the hardware. If the program has the set points for the oil control solenoid as variables, they could be changed to another set point.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I am reaching out again to someone who would know and will post what I hear.
Last edited by JettaRed; Jan 18, 2024 at 09:37 PM.
Last edited by JettaRed; Jan 19, 2024 at 07:19 AM.
Last edited by JettaRed; Jan 19, 2024 at 07:17 AM.




For the mod itself, I definitely would rather the entire connection not be present to actuate the solenoid at all. It's just a personal preference, but that's the only way to ensure it's not doing it's terrible job.
And yes, Cali really likes to espouse the Bosch system as being pretty good in most areas, especially for the age of the system. It's definitely a well written system that can adapt to many engine circumstances to try to keep best performance, thus why this mod has been so successful.




Here I was paying attention to jury duty instructions while replying to a hack question:
I have too much respect for a working computer then to tamper with its software. The executable code compiled for the target CPU is virtually unmodifiable, even by the original team that wrote the source.
We are not talking about an HTML page... we are talking about MBytes of instructions of proprietary software. To modify object code requires the proprietary source tree before it gets packaged.
> Maps vs. Logic:
Mixture Maps can be modified because there's a whole cottage industry and hacking tools to rework these tables with different offset values.
Understand that tempering with the logical processing code is not on the horizon.
> Finite ressources:
Days are 24Hr long... I am biased towards working solutions. This translates into this statement: pulling the solenoid can be a free 5mn job to completion easily reversed
vs.
Pioneering the impossible taske recoding a working ECU. I bow to that!!
> PATH to SW TWEAKS:
Ok now that I'm thinking, how about this:
One free way to go get lucky is through the exposed settings. This doesn't require to brake any executable binary code. Related options are either exposed or not exposed. Finding these SETTINGS is the KEY HERE! It is still very possible to mess up the ECU with messed up inputs.
I don't believe 3500RPM is going to be offered as a setting but perhaps Active/Inative basic toggle.
I don't think this range of deep settings are going to be available... the hunt is on: Vediamo/Monaco gurus... Look up options under engine control module.
We want to run the solenoid PWM such that
-- ECU knows pp solenoid is plugged in factory condition.
-- ECU does not activate low pressure pump output
-- Test options to be sure of preliminary results.
> High cold start idle correlation:
Ppl expect miracles, plurial. At least you got the first one soon after unplugging.
Further miracle comme tied to first stage then reaching second stage then another stage where door pops open - very much like the Russian doles.
The cold start idle is like a live VVT shift activation test. The RPM and length won't improve until your engine mechanicals improve. We looked earlier at steps to help the engine run seriously well.
✌️
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 19, 2024 at 06:37 PM.
I also adjusted my cams back to stock to see if that makes any difference, and it didnt. Soon I will be loading the oem tune, to get a smog, so we'll see if that gets a reaction. Since I know its not VVT giving the gains, at least in my car, it leaves throttle responseq which is no doubt a result of torque control. Since some say it netted more torque, it makes perfect sense.
I also adjusted my cams back to stock to see if that makes any difference, and it didnt. Soon I will be loading the oem tune, to get a smog, so we'll see if that gets a reaction. Since I know its not VVT giving the gains, at least in my car, it leaves throttle responseq which is no doubt a result of torque control. Since some say it netted more torque, it makes perfect sense.
What kind of tune do you have? I have a Stage 2 that just never ran well before. Disabling the solenoid allows me to run the Stage 2 file without any negative effects.
Are your readiness codes never set with the tune? Is that why you're loading the factory file?
I heard a rumor they're doing checksum checks to catch tunes, which I'd fail. Even if they are not I'd still be better to use the oem, which is easy to load up.
Yes I do have a readiness check issue; Evap System - Incomplete
It appeared some four or so months ago and won't go away. My gas cap seems fine, but I cleaned and lubed it with fingers crossed., Still fails. I guess I'll get a new cap but I doubt it'll be that easy.I have an O2 Heater fail readiness as well, but with a little tweak in the tune, more stockish on cold start, I can make it go away.
My oil leak is apparently on the valve cover, which drips on the ex manifold. I dread it because I have to pull the fuel lines. If I didn't floor it then no leak, or at least I wouldn't smell it. Now I smell oil all the time and it's worse than ever.
I heard a rumor they're doing checksum checks to catch tunes, which I'd fail. Even if they are not I'd still be better to use the oem, which is easy to load up.
Yes I do have a readiness check issue; Evap System - Incomplete
It appeared some four or so months ago and won't go away. My gas cap seems fine, but I cleaned and lubed it with fingers crossed., Still fails. I guess I'll get a new cap but I doubt it'll be that easy.I have an O2 Heater fail readiness as well, but with a little tweak in the tune, more stockish on cold start, I can make it go away.
My oil leak is apparently on the valve cover, which drips on the ex manifold. I dread it because I have to pull the fuel lines. If I didn't floor it then no leak, or at least I wouldn't smell it. Now I smell oil all the time and it's worse than ever.
Your increased oil leak may be coincidental. I would check your PCV valve to see if it is working correctly because the whole purpose is to relieve pressure and recirculate vapors to be consumed in the combustion process.
Check this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post8909191
Last edited by JettaRed; Jan 20, 2024 at 08:49 AM.
I heard a rumor they're doing checksum checks to catch tunes, which I'd fail. Even if they are not I'd still be better to use the oem, which is easy to load up.
Yes I do have a readiness check issue; Evap System - Incomplete
It appeared some four or so months ago and won't go away. My gas cap seems fine, but I cleaned and lubed it with fingers crossed., Still fails. I guess I'll get a new cap but I doubt it'll be that easy.I have an O2 Heater fail readiness as well, but with a little tweak in the tune, more stockish on cold start, I can make it go away.
My oil leak is apparently on the valve cover, which drips on the ex manifold. I dread it because I have to pull the fuel lines. If I didn't floor it then no leak, or at least I wouldn't smell it. Now I smell oil all the time and it's worse than ever.
I think I have too much ethanol in it now to load the oem tune, but I suppose I could try. Worst thing it'll do is not run.
Seigmann; good idea! Where is that elbow, and is the valve in the same spot? I had assumed the valve was in back. Plus I recall cycling it in Xentry and I could've swore I heard it in back? Anyway, I looked online and not much luck. One said it was behind the right rear tire, but it was not a 207. I can't find squat for a 207. I'd assume yours would be more or less similar and in the same general location, but just a guess.






