TomZVB

I read through some other reviews of this oil and found that it was a replacement for their "Sport" line of oils. Specs read well but I'd need to do more research before moving to it - the point of bringing the two MOTUL specs together was really to make light of the 229.5 spec's focus - Fuel Economy.

While I'd like to run a 50 weight oil, I think Driven's DI40 might be a better overall choice due to its anti bore-scoring focus (Porsche). I may just reach out to Mr. Speed and get his specific recommendation. I do know that after this interval, Mobil 1 0w-40 Euro is not going back in it.

TomZVB

I concur with that approach. The oil especially if it's MB's oil has probably thinned some and could produce a similar result. How many miles on the oil? Is it 7k miles (and if so, that's too much for these engines - I don't care what MB says).

For the record, I have not seen anything negative in terms of the MCT post unplugging though in my case I do not have the mileage post-unplugging that was mentioned above.

kevm14

My cold start MCT is still buttery smooth, unlike before unplugging. However when hot I still feel some unsmoothness which may not have been there when I first unplugged.

bentz69

I run liquimoly with 10-11k intervals and have always done blackstone analysis. Plenty of life left in that oil at 10k miles. At 7k with the unplugged solenoid l may or may not be due for an oil change. Either way, analysis will be done to see if unplugging has caused more wear on the oil.

PeterUbers

and the mct adaptation you recently did hasn't helped?

CaliBenzDriver

-- The best would be someone with a defective harness fault and MCT since 10,000.Mi ago.


-- CAN-C retransmits are very capable of introducing shift latencies between ECU <--> TCU.
Stealth no-code whatsoever !

kevm14

No because it's not an MCT issue. The adaptation did help the engagement response though.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

OK, guys, I couldn't wait any longer. With only 2000 miles since my last oil change using Mobil 1 0W-40 with a dash of CERA TEC and a pinch of 15W-50, I changed my oil this afternoon using Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 API SP rated. Immediately, the car hummed like a hornet's nest. (Not really.) It did sound as smooth as ever and I'm excited to put some miles on it. The only place I could find it is on Amazon. Any other sources you know about?

kevm14

I bought my Platinum Euro 0W-40 (for my S550) from Walmart.com, free shipping. Try that.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

What's the fun in waiting that long. You're missing out on a lot of quality time caressing your engine.

You may throw the BS flag on this guy, but he makes interesting points about oil change intervals. I like to keep my cars as long as they don't become a pain.

Rickman30

In my quest, and reading about those here wanting to use a thicker oil, there is a part where Lake answers a question and make an analogy about too thin, too thick oil. I have been trying to ensure I stay within what's good for my bearings. i.e keeping in the 40 weight range, the other part is the additive package required for my engine and why.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I saw that for 0W-40. But I am looking specifically for 5W-40. Walmart sells 5W-40 is single quart sizes, but it's cheaper on Amazon. Wish they carried the 5 liter size for $26 like they do for 0W-40.


By the way, I'm thinking my car likes the Pennzoil Platinum Euro Full Synthetic 5W-40 much more than the concoction I had before. Ran out to the Post Office this morning and the car felt smoother and stronger. I'm sure it was my imagination, but I'll take it.

Cifdig

Run 5w 50 and be done with it . Not a hard decision to make . Going on years now with clean walls minimal blow by on multiple cars all m157.

bentz69

Is there one particular brand you have been using?

Cifdig

personally I run amsoil signature series 5w50. On my m157 1k hp . My cousins cls63 big turbo 900hp. My boys renntech R3 setup , my shops rs7. And my boys big turbo cl63. We all drive very hard. These cars are doing mid to low 5's 60-130's. I'm changing my oil at 3500 miles. I noticed and instant! Improvement, the cls had also an instant improvement, while the others have also had improvements but ti what extent I do not know since I'm not hands on everyday with some of them other then a couple.

Rickman30

Another reason higher oil pressure to activate piston cooling is better than the low pressure strategy employed by the automakers, and this gives evidence why the EPA mandates is not for longevity. While this mainly talks about ring choice the principals expressed are relevant to engine temp and wear.

CaliBenzDriver

Lake Jr. really packed a lot context info in that video. He makes the case for his product: the thin low tension rings. Same type that our engine have to prevent friction. He saves 20HP on a V8....

What striked me is the delta between 170F coolant and 280F oil temps.

This identifies what engine part carries the heat... without a heat exchanger the oil picks-up far more heat than the coolant.

Now guess what happens when driving normally at 2000.RPM highway and the heat is not removed stock MOD-0....Heat accumulates in the core!


It would be interesting to see Lake Jr. run his engine test bench on dry-lube extreme heat


I bet TT have thicker rings to withstand the boost pressure famous for bending Benz rods. So TT may have less blow-by than NA with low-tension rings.

WRC-LVR

So should we all add additional oil cooling to our v6, v8.? And what temp oil thermostat to open the flow to the cooler? 190F?

You can still buy the inline thermostat housings that either recirculate the oil back to the sump or allow flow to the oil cooler. IIRC also the oil cooler should be a stacked plate type.

OTOH, where would the oil cooler go? Not much room in modern cars...

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...r-painful.html

W205C43PFL

Thanks again for all the advice! Sorry to let you down : ( I wonder if there are differences but I have the M276.823 engine.

I still wasn't able to do it from the top as suggested. I believe I did successfully reached behind the intercooler but that's it.

May I kindly ask what tools did you use for the job, I can't see a thing even if I park the car with the sun shining directly at it, I then parked back in the garage and then used my phone trying to shine a light in and after numerous attempts, it seems like I see a similar plug to the oil pump solenoid on camera but not sure if it is indeed it. The problem is, I am also not even sure where that is where my phone is pointing, how did you managed to unplug it without being able to see the plug at all?

Here are two images of what my camera picked up, it is a screenshot of a video of me guiding the phone down.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

I cannot see the connector directly, but knowing approximately where it is at, I visualize where it is. I use only my fingers to grab and pull it off. I have a bore scope camera that I will try and get a good picture of the plug.

Your M276 is the same as all the other M276.8xx engines.

W205C43PFL

Thank you for your response.

Wait, but isn't there supposed to be a white tab to unlock first, so the plug I pictured isn't the right one then?

After you unplug it, how did you managed to put the dummy connector in the solenoid side plug? As well as zip-tie it up on to the coolant line given how little room, is there a technique you used that you don't mind sharing.

Thanks again!

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Here's a couple of pics using my borescope camera. There is a little tab that you pull back and then press to unlatch the connector from the plug. The dummy solenoid just connects directly to the wiring harness. I tie wrapped mine to the coolant hose.







I used this to protect the connector to the actual inside solenoid. AliExpress. Get the 2-wire connector.

W205C43PFL

Very very helpful!!! Thank you so much! Time to tackle this project again : )
Hopefully it is a success this time : )

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

It is easier to reach from below, once you have the car raised and all the panels removed.