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So 2012 e63 has come past 100K now and as i mentioned in a previous post that ive noticed some coolant leak and have sent the car in for it to be addressed
Immediately the shop was able to identify the notorious turbo coolant lines as the culprit. He said that there is a lot of "while you in there" stuff to do also. Wanted to get opinions on this.
These included doing the water pump, he noted that the relationship of the belt over the bearing was was increased - meaning that the bearing starts to push out when it gets older.
He recommended doing from cam seals... I have not noticed any oil dripping but he pointed out some sludge accumulated below the covers, along with some around the oil filter holder.
He commented about all the different places where there are plastic connectors for coolant that eventually leak. And even considering a radiator swap.
so I was just wondering your guys opinions about all this. I dont have a problem doing all this work so i dont have to keep coming in every month for some thing else. I know there is no way to predict this but does this sound right when it comes to 100K cars
what is your driving style - FREEWAY - SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA - NOTHING EXCITING UNFORTUNATELY - what part of the US do you live? SO- CAL - drive it in winter? WHATS THAT - what maintenance style do you have? MOSTLY WITHIN 8-10K MILE OIL CHANGES - WILL NARROW THAT INTERVAL. - E63 or E63S? E63 WITH P30 STOCK - what major repairs have you had? - THERMOSTAT SWAPPED DUE TO NOT WARMING UP FAST ENOUGH, LEAKING FUEL SENDER UNDER REAR SEAT, REAR SUSPENSION BELLOWS LONG AGO, - if bought used - were there any significant issues in past ownership? NEW
My 2012 Wagon had a similar leak. I ended up replacing the water pump, thermostat housing, thermostat, turbocharger coolant feed lines and the serpentine belt at the same time. Be careful removing the turbo coolant lines, the ends are plastic and if they break off inside the turbo...
I also updated the intercooler system to the MY2013 and later "divorced" system. This made a HUGE difference in summer time. Also check all the sensor connections for oil and replace if necessary. I've replaced my camshaft position sensors twice now, now on the 3rd revision of the sensor.
I change oil/filter every 5-8k (Mobil 1 0W-40). Just did a borescope and my cylinders look new. Engine runs great. I check over the entire car every time I have it on the lift. It's to the point now where I'm replacing things that are worn out from use. Things like the cowl tray, the driver's lower seat cushion and the window switch on the drivers door. I try to keep my car as good as new if not better.
If everything is original; First: Belt, idler pulleys, water pump, thermostat, turbo lines, any other lines or fittings made with similar black plastic mounted or connected to the engine. By now these are all broken and leaking. Second: radiator (a pain to replace), overflow tank and all radiator/cooling hoses. These hoses are slightly more robust and arguably easer to replace. Third: Spark plugs, ignition coils and fuel injectors. Some go every 20k on plugs and the other two begin to fail at 100k. And by now all of the cam position and solenoid sensors are leaking oil into the engines wire harness. These are fairly easy to replace.
I have checked the ECU for oil . There is none. I did change the cam sensors, and will have the solenoid sensors done while car is it. I had already added sacrificial harnesses to those.
Sparks i did at around 50K. Have not since. No coils nor injectors.
tranmission did at 40K and then at 90K. At 90 K which was one yr ago it seems from 2/3 there is harder shifting even in C mode. I think i posted this once and some one said that the LM transmission oil can cause it. Others have told me dont do a trans fluild service because it washed away clutch disc material or something and can cause such. I m not sure .
as for electrical stuff the radio unit likes to restart it self here and there and for a few yrs ive had the cannot get into Park issue with the gear shift. I bought a replacement but havent bothered to put it in.
I recently had some coolant leaks, I replaced the heater hose by the firewall, thermostat, water pump, turbo coolant lines, oil cooler gasket, and resealed the timing covers. I believe the radiator is overkill.
Radiator plastic seams are right around the corner on schedule with expansion tank once you have replaced the leaky cap, pressure will build during heatsoaks.
PCV kit
HPFP 2x + rollers
In-tank gas filter
alternator + starter brush set
3X Mounts
suspension refresh
chain tensioners
sparkplugs + coils + boots
inspect "oil-in-harness" providers
vacuum pump check-valve
Replace all fluids (tranny, eng, brks, Coolt, Diff!!)
I recently got to replace my diff oil. I found the oil in great condition but loaded with XMas sparkles at only 50kMi... Get yourself the magnetic diff plug MB forgot to use or dump every 25kMi.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 29, 2023 at 01:52 AM.
coolant tank water pump pulley position cam sensors already replaced a yr ago. Dumb front oil sweat turbo coolant leak engine pulley crack small front flex rear flex rear shock seepage engine mount
I have a 2014 E63S Estate that I picked up 4 years ago with 30k miles. Now at 104k, I just completed as thorough a service that I could think of to do.
In addition to the water pump and tstat I fully flushed the entire cooling system. I replaced both main radiator hoses for good measure while there. Also replaced all turbo coolant lines, serp belt, tensioner and all pulleys.
I also completed a front diff service, since I had to replace the front intermediate shaft (bearing VERY noisy). That fluid looked like crap, fwiw.
Last related bit, there's a small coolant line from the expansion tank that attaches at the top front of the engine, small bit that gets Very brittle.
Also, suggest you service the rear diff if LSD...I do mine every 20k and it's Always filthy
No LSD on my car. I was offered the rear diff service but will wait on that.
I agreed to engine /trans mounts
- front covers reseal with all the various lines, coolant etc to be done
- water pump - not the radiator
- radiator reservoir yes. and associated lines
- things i can do myself are the dumb fabric air hoses- need to find a better option for those
- auxillary battery and main i can do myself
- spark plugs are probably due but I can DIY
Good point. I buy from them but never bother to use their warranty that sometimes it seems like dealing with the hassle of shipping back and the shipping price isn't always worth it plus a lot of the prices on products have gone up a lot
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
What does the maintenance manual say? you should be able to get a copy from www.mbusa.com. Just go through it and do what you think would be good. Services that would be done regardless are:
Tranny Service: 6-7 years (or more often based on your tranny)
Brake fluid change: every 2 years
Diff fluid change
Coolant change: 10-15 years
Check suspension bushings for cracks
Motor and tranny mounts leaking (if hydraulic)
got my car back
we did a reseal of front cam covers, turbo coolant lines, oil filter housing gasket, added new camshaft adjuster solenoids, reman water pump, belts, and whatever other plastics bits that break
. Also did expansion tank, engine mounts, trans mount- $5400 or so.
cam chain tensioner? Hmm I dont think so in the history of the car AFAIK. I still have the old style chain btw,
the pig tails are on the solenoids, the big rounder parts right. They dont fit on the little sensors do they?
cam chain tensioner? Hmm I dont think so in the history of the car AFAIK. I still have the old style chain btw,
the pig tails are on the solenoids, the big rounder parts right.
They dont fit on the little sensors do they?
The cam sensors and cam solenoids connectors are not compatible. 3 wires vs. 2.
The infamous leakers are the superheated cam sensors... replace them plus add disposable pigtails as cheap effective protection.
As far as chain and tensioners.
Old chain stretch is compensated by the VVT, no problem when HPFP are lubricated instead of dry: less efforts.
Your old tensioners are no longer effective at stopping the camshaft from picking up chain slack.
It's too bad whom replaced the timing cover sealant did not have 10mn to replace the limp tensioners.
+++ Its not an emergency...
Limp passenger tensioner detunes your engine performance.... it has plenty of power anyway
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 6, 2024 at 08:01 PM.
aarrggghh... it was not even mentioned by the shop
i did bring up the oil solenoid discussion to the shop out of curiosity if he had heard such... asked him if he had time to have a look at the videos and post and get his thoughts... Shop is fairly well respected here in so-cal/oc . They do tunes a;so.
for the cam sensors can you give me the part number for the pigtails for them, as the solenoid ones do not fit there
we actually changed the sensors a yr ago.. checked them now.. still have oil in them
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