rlee02135

nice brakes Nick!

C24owner

That sucks man.

Thanks Robert.

On your stoptechs, do the brake lines screw into the caliper in the same place as the C32 calipers?

MrMercedes

Im looking to buy some rotors. I saw these on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...spagenameZWDVW What do you think? Are they junk?

aolsen

Have you looked into putting C32 Rotors and Calipers? I highly recommend them.

Moviela

I am smelling the aroma of rice from these rotors. This company selling them is run by Paul Do from a condo in Anaheim.

OEM rotors will treat you much nicer than these knock-offs.

EV0LVE

in case you haven't checked, oem rotors are not too much more expensice than those, i think i paid $125 each for mine, plus tax.

yeuchau

i wouldn't try it, for rotors, i won't try anything that's not name brand like brembo..etc

WaveyKat

wait and save your money and get Stoptech or something!

C230 Sport Coup

I beleive the rear rotors on our cars are not ventilated, and drilling unventilated rotors, is not a good thing, or so I've heard.

sludge

Brembo makes an entry-level rotor for $180 for the front pair and $170 for the back pair. They are the "Sport Brake System" line. HOWEVER, for the 2003 C230k, they are only available if you have the sport brake package option. I had the same dilemma and replaced mine with OEM since I don't have the sport package. You can find details on brembo.com and pricing on buybrakes.com.

outaurleague

+2

gregr09

Not too expensive. But then again, I can get my calipers painted.

Mu9enx

are the c32 rotors and calipers drop in for all w203's? as in easily replaced and no hassle?

aolsen

you'll need enough clearance to put them on, I have the c32 AMG rims on my c230, they of course leave room to have the AMG calipers and rotors. I must say, the set-up makes the car look a WHOLE lot nicer...sorry if this wasn't the answer you were looking for, lol...

aolsen

lol...by the way, every time I read your name, I think of Mucinex and want to blow my nose...lol

Tangerine

When I was doing my AMG brake swap I found out that the rear bolts were different length while the fronts were the same. Boltless I ran to my local Mercedes parts department, dealer wanted $3+ dollar for one and didn't carry them in stock. Horray for Foreign Motor West and Westwood, your parts supply sucks... Went to try the BMW dealership and sure enough they had a bolt that fits perfectly (part #33-32-6-768-354 called Hex Screw with Collar) and costs $0.91. Another thing I noticed was that the keychains from Mercedes were ~$30 while BMW were ~$20. Talk about Mercedes charging up the *** for parts.

sikboy

Just wondering if anyone has done a FULL brake upgrade. By full, i mean not just brake pads.

what brands?
how big?
does it affect the size of the mag / alloy wheels?
price paid?

and most important ....

Does it really make a difference?

I am looking at either suspension work or a brake upgrade soon. I actually really want it for cosmetic reasons. But if they improve the drive .. then its a bonus.

If you have please post some pics.

amdeutsch

There are several posts on this subject matter. There even are DIY stickies for it. Start the New Year of right and read these first. You can always ask more detailed questions afterwards.

Tangerine

I just did a C32/55 brake upgrade, the braking feel is much better. It looks nice. Install is pretty straightforward and can't get any simpler.

sikboy

What car did you do the brake upgrade on? So you just bought the C32/55 brakes from Mercedes and got them to fit it as well?

Do you have any pics?

Prices?


thanks

C24owner

The C32 C55 brakes will fit any W203 C class. You must have 17" wheels with the right offset.

There are a bunch of threads about this. Doing a search will bring them up.

LINK

DIY

millerm77

Good Day Mates,

I have a 2006 C230 w/40K miles on it--mostly highway miles from my 100 mile a day comute. My rotor's are showing some signs of wear...i.e. grooves on the face and a small developing lip on the outer edge of the rotor. I did a visual inspection w/o taking the wheel off and was able to see brake pad available. Is there some sort of line or measurement that I need to clue into when inspecting the brake shoes? My question is how do I know when I need to replace my brakes/rotor's? (the light has not come on yet!) Any help with my question and also a DIY brake job would be so greatful! The S.F. dealerships just gouge your wallets for simple maintenace work.

Thanks!
Mike

Buellwinkle

I usually look in between the wheel spokes and look at the gap between the rotor and backing plate. I figure it's time to shop for parts when it reaches about 1/8".

To do brakes on a modern car properly with ABS/BAS/ESP, you have to be able to bleed the system with fresh fluid. This should be done every 2 years but I usually do it when I do brakes. The pad change is pretty simple, just remove the bolts holding the caliper to the caliper bracket, the pads will just fall out. Use an old pad to press the pistons in with a c-clamp. Attached a tube to the bleed screw and open it up before pushing in the pistons. Then remove the caliper mounting bracket screws. Remove the screw that holds the rotor in place, remove rotor, clean everything with wire brush and caliper cleaner, put the new rotors in, put caliper bracket back, put the new sensor in the one pad that needs it, put pads in caliper, grease slides where edge of pad backing plate touches the caliper brackets and caliper pins/bolts. Put it all together, torque spec (I wing it here) and bleed brakes starting from brake furthest from master cylinder, right rear, then left rear, then passenger front, then drivers front until it's clear and no bubbles. Piece of cake.

capt_paul

I'm in the process of changing my pads and rotors on the front and the pads on the rear. I cannot get the right front rotor off. Yes, I did remove the screw that secures the rotor to the hub. The exposed hub part is rusty, so I suppose that the rotor is rusted to the hub..

I have tried to beat it loose with a rubber mallet. Any other tricks to getting the rotor off?

Moviela

Squirt or spray penetrating oil around the hub. Don't be cheap with the stuff, but don't get it all over. Using a metal hammer tap gently on the face of the rotor where the bolt circle is, not the part touched by the pads. This will cause vibration allowing the oil to work better. After it comes off, you need to wire brush all that rust off the hub. Shiney new time. Then coat the hub and rotor mating surfaces with lanolin, and wipe it off. A microscopic film will remain on the hub and rotor. Then put the new rotor on.