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W203/CL203 City Light Thread (LED, HID, bulbs) - All you want to know

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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 03:53 PM
  #751  
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Originally Posted by drexappeal
Piaa Xtreme White or Raybrig Hyper white.
i'll prolly go with these just b/c there cheaper anyone got any pics of them in their car on???
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 05:49 PM
  #752  
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Midnight Blue 2004.5 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan. 2002 w210 E320, 2009 w211 E350 Sport
Again, another ringing endorsement for STFF! I found a pre-existing thread discussing city/parking lights.

Please people STFF. Let's keep things organized in here. If you're too lazy to read through long threads, well then don't always expect to be spoon fed info.
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 08:12 PM
  #753  
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C3Twon AWD Jumpofffff
my bad peeps i was at work before
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 08:19 PM
  #754  
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Originally Posted by BlackLiquorish8
my bad peeps i was at work before
No worries. I even forgot this was here, so I've added it to the stickies. But yeah, I'm pretty sure there have been some good discussions on here on what people have used over the years.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 11:13 AM
  #755  
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how about this set?

"They also have a built in current limiting resistor and diode to protect the led from reversed polarity installation."

does that mean no other resistor needed or is that just for reverse plugging only? or will i still need this?

Last edited by sanf; Sep 26, 2007 at 11:15 AM.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #756  
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Originally Posted by sanf
how about this set?

"They also have a built in current limiting resistor and diode to protect the led from reversed polarity installation."

does that mean no other resistor needed or is that just for reverse plugging only? or will i still need this?
No, you will still need a ballast resistor to be connected in parallel. The limiting resistor mentioned in the bulb description is used to protect the LED itself from being fried by 12V.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 10:40 PM
  #757  
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Originally Posted by sanf
how about this set?

"They also have a built in current limiting resistor and diode to protect the led from reversed polarity installation."

does that mean no other resistor needed or is that just for reverse plugging only? or will i still need this?
when I installed these type LED lights in my sidemarkers it was nothing but trouble. it worked for about a month then the car's computer started randomly shutting it off even though nothing changed with the resistor or bulb. they looked cool as hell, the car just didn't like them. ended up taking them off and eating the price of the parts.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 11:19 PM
  #758  
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with the help of Advans.. my led city lights are up and running. hopefully they will last a bit longer. if not.. oh well. 7 bucks out the door.

they are very white in real life, not as blue as they seem in the pics





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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 11:55 PM
  #759  
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Originally Posted by sanf
with the help of Advans.. my led city lights are up and running. hopefully they will last a bit longer. if not.. oh well. 7 bucks out the door.

they are very white in real life, not as blue as they seem in the pics





looks good! glad it worked out for you!
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 05:07 PM
  #760  
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piaa tera led

i bought piaa tera leds several months ago but i finally took time out to start messing with the city lights just now. I tried installing the piaa tera leds but they just don't seem to want to work. I'm not very technically inclined when it comes to cars so I'm asking for help after reading and troubleshooting (this is the first car i'm modding).

i had the resistor in series, not in parallel, on the gray wire of the wiring harness since i had a difficult time reaching the city lights (this is the preferred method i think after reading through this thread). the brown should be the ground from what i understand. i used wire taps instead of cutting the lines. i figured it should be working.

of note, the led bulbs do not even flicker on with or without the resistor tapped in. i get no error from the car either. the halogen 194 bulbs still work and have currently been put back in.
the led's are also longer than the wedge halogen bulbs and it doesn't seem to fit as flush as the halogen bulbs.

i took a picture so if i did anything wrong, if someone could point it out i'd appreciate it.
[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 08:57 PM
  #761  
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I did the same way as you did, mine works fine, maybe the tape is not a good way of connecting it ? Here is the link

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=122867
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 09:21 PM
  #762  
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Something Slow
am guessing

Gery wire to socket connects Balast and connects to Gery wire again
---------------------> <--------OOOOO----> <------------->
like state in his post

Think it should be like this
RIGHT OR WRONG???

Last edited by WaveyKat; Oct 15, 2007 at 09:25 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 09:28 PM
  #763  
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How I see it is,... simple

The resistor comes with two wires. the city light has two wires, (one ground, one power)

tap one of the two wires from the resistor to either the ground or power. then the other to the other. simple

just have to mount the resistors by metal.

apparently I have my own wire... "Gary wire" lol
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 09:36 PM
  #764  
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WaveyKat, you are right....
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 09:42 PM
  #765  
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Originally Posted by advans
How I see it is,... simple

The resistor comes with two wires. the city light has two wires, (one ground, one power)

tap one of the two wires from the resistor to either the ground or power. then the other to the other. simple

just have to mount the resistors by metal.

apparently I have my own wire... "Gary wire" lol
lol my bad on the Gary wire!!! lol thats some funny *****.

so what about the ones that dont come with resistors likes these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PIAA-...spagenameZWDVW i wonder if they will work fine.

Last edited by WaveyKat; Oct 15, 2007 at 10:04 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 10:05 PM
  #766  
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Originally Posted by WaveyKat
lol my bad on the Gary wire!!! lol thats some funny *****.

so what about the ones that dont come with resistors likes these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PIAA-...spagenameZWDVW i wonder if they will work fine.
mike, they WORK and is great, but I heard that they will eventually "not work"
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 12:10 AM
  #767  
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thanks for the reply guys.

i was hoping not to cut any wires so thats why i tried using the wire taps. also, i thought connecting to the gray wire on the wire harness was the same as connecting to the other gray wire. did anybody actually tap into the wire harness? there was talk about it. the area behind the lights is pretty damn cramped (for me at least) hence tapping into the wire harness.

i'll try tapping into the gery/gary/gray wire right behind the 194 socket again.
If that doesn't work, i'll cut the line. how did you guys connect the ballasts? just pig-tail the wires and electrical tape? wouldn't the tape melt? or did you use splice caps? ( i need to go solderless)
also, where would be the best place for attaching the ballast then? jtc320 had his ballasts outside the light enclosement tied with zip tie.

LMing, if the ballast is inside the light enclosement, you had stated the temp of 40C wasn't too hot for inside the headlights (right behind the 194 socket), did you just tape it there and close the cap?

-the newb that is me
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 01:32 AM
  #768  
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Doesn't it come with a red clip thing to connect to wire ?


It gets pretty hot during the summer time, I don't suggest you to use tape because it may melt. I just put mine right inside the hole, there is a small small platform where is just enough to hide the whole balast without using any tape. Hope this helps~
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 10:03 AM
  #769  
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Originally Posted by LMing
Doesn't it come with a red clip thing to connect to wire ?


It gets pretty hot during the summer time, I don't suggest you to use tape because it may melt. I just put mine right inside the hole, there is a small small platform where is just enough to hide the whole balast without using any tape. Hope this helps~
yeap, it indeed gets pretty dam hot!

Like I have always said, the resistor comes with two sides, (two wires/two splicers) all you have to do is, tap one to power one to ground, and your good to go.

as for mounting the resistors, mount them to the "metal part" above the headlights. and the wires...have em hangning in the engine bay, but make sure you DO drill a small hole thru the dust caps to feed the wires in.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 04:23 PM
  #770  
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So gary did you solder them I guess??

I guess using the twisty cap things won't work to well? lol
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 09:11 PM
  #771  
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Originally Posted by EnkeiDynamics
So gary did you solder them I guess??

I guess using the twisty cap things won't work to well? lol
I didnt do any soldering, I just did wire-splicing.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 09:44 PM
  #772  
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thanks for the help guys.
I found the piaa instruction sheet on the net (i bought this set used in classified) and whether you wire-tap or use the red connectors, you have to cut the positive wire behind the bulb. i thought with wire-taps i wouldn't have to cut
anyways, even connecting correctly, it still wasn't working. i'm wondering if the led bulbs are busted. is there anyway to see if the led bulbs are working correctly? putting the original stock 194 bulb back gives a very weak light. i'm assuming its because of the resistor thats now connected.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 09:52 PM
  #773  
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Originally Posted by benze-ply
thanks for the help guys.
I found the piaa instruction sheet on the net (i bought this set used in classified) and whether you wire-tap or use the red connectors, you have to cut the positive wire behind the bulb. i thought with wire-taps i wouldn't have to cut
anyways, even connecting correctly, it still wasn't working. i'm wondering if the led bulbs are busted. is there anyway to see if the led bulbs are working correctly? putting the original stock 194 bulb back gives a very weak light. i'm assuming its because of the resistor thats now connected.
Led is very sensitive about postive and negative, you connect wrong once, the bulb is gone... so..... I think it is busted, it does come with 1 year warranty tho...
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #774  
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Originally Posted by LMing
Led is very sensitive about postive and negative, you connect wrong once, the bulb is gone... so..... I think it is busted, it does come with 1 year warranty tho...
not necessarily, LEDs are not that easy to blow. it does not get blown easily like standard bulbs, I just think either he has the +/- feed wrong, or have not fully "tapped" the wires,

thats why I believe wire splicing is the best, most efficient way.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 08:56 AM
  #775  
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OK...

I ordered low, high and fog bulb LEDs from super bright leds and I just put them in and watched them flash (b/c I don't have the resisitors yet) and they are not that bright when they flashed..like I don't think they would even light up the road at night..I was wondering if they're really just NOT that bright? or if it was because I don't have the resistors in yet...but Advans' city lights looked bright as crap!

I'm confused...

Last edited by EnkeiDynamics; Oct 23, 2007 at 08:59 AM.
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