W203/CL203 City Light Thread (LED, HID, bulbs) - All you want to know
Please people STFF. Let's keep things organized in here. If you're too lazy to read through long threads, well then don't always expect to be spoon fed info.
ended up taking them off and eating the price of the parts.
they are very white in real life, not as blue as they seem in the pics


The Best of Mercedes & AMG
i had the resistor in series, not in parallel, on the gray wire of the wiring harness since i had a difficult time reaching the city lights (this is the preferred method i think after reading through this thread). the brown should be the ground from what i understand. i used wire taps instead of cutting the lines. i figured it should be working.
of note, the led bulbs do not even flicker on with or without the resistor tapped in. i get no error from the car either. the halogen 194 bulbs still work and have currently been put back in.
the led's are also longer than the wedge halogen bulbs and it doesn't seem to fit as flush as the halogen bulbs.
i took a picture so if i did anything wrong, if someone could point it out i'd appreciate it.
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https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=122867
The resistor comes with two wires. the city light has two wires, (one ground, one power)
tap one of the two wires from the resistor to either the ground or power. then the other to the other. simple
just have to mount the resistors by metal.
apparently I have my own wire... "Gary wire" lol
The resistor comes with two wires. the city light has two wires, (one ground, one power)
tap one of the two wires from the resistor to either the ground or power. then the other to the other. simple
just have to mount the resistors by metal.
apparently I have my own wire... "Gary wire" lol
so what about the ones that dont come with resistors likes these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PIAA-...spagenameZWDVW i wonder if they will work fine.
Last edited by WaveyKat; Oct 15, 2007 at 10:04 PM.
so what about the ones that dont come with resistors likes these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PIAA-...spagenameZWDVW i wonder if they will work fine.
i was hoping not to cut any wires so thats why i tried using the wire taps. also, i thought connecting to the gray wire on the wire harness was the same as connecting to the other gray wire.
did anybody actually tap into the wire harness? there was talk about it. the area behind the lights is pretty damn cramped (for me at least) hence tapping into the wire harness. i'll try tapping into the gery/gary/gray
wire right behind the 194 socket again. If that doesn't work, i'll cut the line. how did you guys connect the ballasts? just pig-tail the wires and electrical tape? wouldn't the tape melt? or did you use splice caps? ( i need to go solderless)
also, where would be the best place for attaching the ballast then? jtc320 had his ballasts outside the light enclosement tied with zip tie.
LMing, if the ballast is inside the light enclosement, you had stated the temp of 40C wasn't too hot for inside the headlights (right behind the 194 socket), did you just tape it there and close the cap?
-the newb that is me
It gets pretty hot during the summer time, I don't suggest you to use tape because it may melt. I just put mine right inside the hole, there is a small small platform where is just enough to hide the whole balast without using any tape. Hope this helps~
It gets pretty hot during the summer time, I don't suggest you to use tape because it may melt. I just put mine right inside the hole, there is a small small platform where is just enough to hide the whole balast without using any tape. Hope this helps~
Like I have always said, the resistor comes with two sides, (two wires/two splicers) all you have to do is, tap one to power one to ground, and your good to go.
as for mounting the resistors, mount them to the "metal part" above the headlights. and the wires...have em hangning in the engine bay, but make sure you DO drill a small hole thru the dust caps to feed the wires in.
I found the piaa instruction sheet on the net (i bought this set used in classified) and whether you wire-tap or use the red connectors, you have to cut the positive wire behind the bulb. i thought with wire-taps i wouldn't have to cut

anyways, even connecting correctly, it still wasn't working. i'm wondering if the led bulbs are busted. is there anyway to see if the led bulbs are working correctly? putting the original stock 194 bulb back gives a very weak light. i'm assuming its because of the resistor thats now connected.
I found the piaa instruction sheet on the net (i bought this set used in classified) and whether you wire-tap or use the red connectors, you have to cut the positive wire behind the bulb. i thought with wire-taps i wouldn't have to cut

anyways, even connecting correctly, it still wasn't working. i'm wondering if the led bulbs are busted. is there anyway to see if the led bulbs are working correctly? putting the original stock 194 bulb back gives a very weak light. i'm assuming its because of the resistor thats now connected.
thats why I believe wire splicing is the best, most efficient way.
I ordered low, high and fog bulb LEDs from super bright leds and I just put them in and watched them flash (b/c I don't have the resisitors yet) and they are not that bright when they flashed..like I don't think they would even light up the road at night..I was wondering if they're really just NOT that bright? or if it was because I don't have the resistors in yet...but Advans' city lights looked bright as crap!
I'm confused...
Last edited by EnkeiDynamics; Oct 23, 2007 at 08:59 AM.








