As part of a 60K maintenance schedule for my car...

Please note I'm only concerned with MANUAL Trannys and those who've done this first hand aka DIY.

1) Anybody have a solid answer for which fluid should be used ????

I've now read...

Royal Purple Gear Max or Royal Purple Synthetic Transmission Fluid/Synchromax or 75w-90 or MB 001-989-26-03 (https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....2&postcount=15) or

MB 001-989-21-03-10 (https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....0&postcount=19).

75w-80 (https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....9&postcount=26)

All the above is found in this thread - https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ght=diff+fluid

2) The following brief DIY describes the process as...

Jack car up (must be even so use 4 jackstands)
Make sure you can loosen the fill plug FIRST otherwise if you drain the fluid out and cannot get that fill plug open, you're toast
Loosen drain plug and drain all the fluid out
Re-secure drain plug after all fluid is drained
Take out fill plug and use a suction gun (available at Autozone for about $10) to refill transmission with MB Synthetic Transmission fluid
Tighten fill plug
Lower car

Are there any other details missing from this simple overview, such as...

You will also need two allen wrenches, a 14mm and a 17mm.

The clearance between the fill plug (14mm) and the transmission tunnel is fairly tight, so use a short allen socket. A Hazet 985-14 socket will work; I am sure others are also available.

(https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....1&postcount=28)

Sounds simple enough but you never know!

3) Lastly, should I be concerned that this is not in fact a power "flush" that a qualified mechanic could provide as opposed to this rather basic drain and fill?

This is my first attempt at a transmission drain/"flush". Next-up: Rear Diff Fluid
Thanks for all your input!!!

 

Putting the year and model of your car in your sig or posts would be very helpful.
Assuming it's the same as a 2002 C230, the DVD says to fill 10 mm below the top of the fill plug, use 1.2 L of oil.
And thats a change from previous stated level of 1.5 or 1.8 it says to help with shifting when cold.

Tighten drain screw to 50nm and fill screw to 35nm.

I've heard from another member who put in Royal Purple it worked very well.
Easiest way to be certain you get the right stuff is to CALL.

I've used Redline in the past with good results, and again, CALL and ask for tech support. Once I put in the wrong stuff had to drain and refill and synth gear oil is expensive!
But it took a very grindy when cold tranny, and made smooth as buttuh!

Wrong oil make tranny go boom!!!!!
The call is FREE!

And I'm not sure in your case, but typically you don't use a suction gun to put oil in, just buy the little hand pumps they sell in the store.

Sometimes the bottles are the wrong shape and you have to cut the tops off to get the tube all the way to the bottom.

Put the oil bottles in a bucket of hot water to loosen it up, and make it easier to pump. But of course make sure the tops are sealed good before doing so.

 

MB 001-989-21-03-10 is AT fluid, not manual.
0019892603 is the MB pn for manny OIL.

You want gear OIL, not transmission FLUID, which is generally for AT.

I'd go with synth...after calling...to make sure.

And do the fuel filter while you're doing the DIFF....saves time, since you're in there anyway. New belts would be good too. Sizes are listed in your owners manual.
Actually doing the oil in the diff isn't called for until 100K.
I'm at 124K and it's never been done.

I'm in the same mode right now, but at 124K.
Gonna pull the alternator and have it tested and rebuilt before it breaks.
Maybe the SC too...we'll see.

Throw in new filters, and wiper blades and you'll be in for happy motoring.
And check the cam sensor to make sure it's not leaking as per recent thread.

Getting the 14 and 17mm hex sockets isn't easy, as I'm finding, since I managed to find only one store that sells them in this county, but lots of places online.
Doing my diff later today or tomorrow.

Manual trannies are drained and filled, not flushed!
Happy DIY'ing!

Lastly, I'd throw in new spark plugs, and if you really want reliability,
get new coil packs, (I'm assuming a 4 cylinder) as they tend to go bad sometime after 50K, and the longest I got was 80K.

They're about 35-40 each, and sit right on top of the spark plug.
They crap out due to heat and the car runs on 3 cylinders..or less if they go more than 1 at a time.

On the 6's I don't think they're so close to the heat source and may last longer.

 

just changed fluid in my o6 c350, easy to do, used roy purp and shifts great, took @ 1 1/2 qts. great easy mod.

 

C230 Sport Coup, thanks for the detailed reply!!!! Thats is why I love coming here!!!

Sorry about the sig missing. I could've sworn I had it there a year or two ago but it disappeared ???

Anyway, yeah its an '03 C230 so I assume it'll follow the same procedure you mentioned.

I think I'm gonna go with Redline MTL (a 70/80 synthetic gear oil as per this post - https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....9&postcount=26).

I changed the fuel filter, air filter, cabin filters, and spark plugs the other day In fact, I'm bringing the car into the dealership today because of a rusty film (https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/239755-rusty-paste-spark-plug.html) I found on the plug closest to the radiator. I suspect it might be residue left from a collision I was in that involved my front end and radiator essentially exploding and being replaced. I'm not sure about changing the coil packs. If one of them goes and you're only running 3 cyls would you get an error message?? I'm under a Mercedes extended warranty until the end of next year so I'd like to avoid replacement of any warranted parts on my dime (as a maintenance item). Maybe I'll hold off on the diff fluid change until 100k.

Which belts are you referring to? I'm familiar with the serpentine belt only. Sorry for not referring to my owner's manual but I don't have it available at this time.

 

2002 has 2 belts. Yours has 1. Owners manual has the belt routing.

Sounds like you're on the right track. I always like to start with used cars, dump all fluids, and start fresh.
One other thing is the brake fluid which has to be flushed every 2 years to prevent damage to the very fancy and expensive ABS and ESP systems.
If you're going to the dealer have them do it, it's worth just paying, as it's not that expensive.
Also, same for coolant, 2 years or ...was it 50 or 60K miles?
Thats an easy one, DIY, though you need Zerex G-05 coolant ONLY, or the stuff from Mercedes, which is the Zerex in a bottle with mercedes written on it.

 

So, the "Synthetic Manual Transmission Lubricants: MT-90 75W90" is safe to use for c230's? Anyone else use this fluid?

 

Finally got around to doing this over the past weekend.
Really easy to do. Used Redline MTL. The only difficulty really was getting the right amount of oil in with the suction gun. They're really a PITA to use.

Also, decided to check my brakes while I was at it. Forgot to take the lug bolt wheel lock key off before driving off. Went with the ol' size smaller socket and BFH to get em' off.

 

+1 - The confusion comes for older Benzheads - in that for many years MB recommended ATF Type A Suffix A for all of their manual transmissions & the 3 planetary set Auto.

This is no longer the case and is certainly wrong for the 6 speed. While I usually say stick to products on the approved list - this is not a critical application. You will soon know if the box does not like the chosen oil because the synchromesh cones won't lock up properly & give you poor shift quality. The only long term detrimental effects with use of an oil with too much EP additive in it or an inappropriate base fluid & formulation would be corrosive attack of the synchrocones or shortened seal life - both unlikely.

 

put royal purple in c350 6speed tranny as above, sweet mod, like butta, 1 pearl, tranny has a drain plug and a add fluid plug, they both look very similar ,BUT the drain plug has a magnet on it to collect small metal shreds in fluid, remember to replace this one in the drain position, i screwed up and did it backwards, and was too lazy to correct problem after i discovered my mistake AFTER refilling the tranny w fluid. oh welll, live and learn

 

reviving this thread just because i do not have any type of owners manual. It gets pretty cold here in New Jersey and winter is comming, shifting is becoming a PITA. Is it 1.2l or 1.8 l? also MB fluid or Red Line? Thanks.

 

i have the redline in my tranny and have had it in for about 50k. gonna do a change soon but i have been happy with the redline. when i did the change the shifts were super smooth and nice and tight. the shifts are getting a little less buttery as time has gone by but ill def stick with the redline. i put in 1.5L i believ as recommended by redline

 

OWNERS MANUAL! (click it foo)

 

File is damaged foo. lol

 

****! Sorry...hey, I try.

Fixed!
Click here

Foo....

 

Thank you. (foo)

 

Excuse my stupidity, is the manual tranny listed as rear axle? or its that the diff oil level , because under the fluids it does not say manual trans, anywhere.

 

Ha, I see what you mean. Oh well. No the rear axle = diff.

Have you bought the DVD yet? It has the quantities and procedures etc.
I think you call 1800formercedes is it 18004mercedes I forget.
60 bucks + shipping.
Sorry, attempts to copy it failed.

I do recall that they changed the amount of fluid from what was originally specified on the DVD. Remember reading it.

 

What does the DVD Specify?. 60+ bucks for a dvd. Christmas is comming that's a present for my son and my wife together lol.

 

son and "WIFE" lol you are not getting any next year

 

How much quarts of oil does the manual transmission need? I looked in the owners manual but only see for auto.

EDIT: After reading it looks like 1.5L