When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Another information, I parked the car so I use only the first gear and reverse but I did not notice any issue with the gearbox. Before remove another time the pan I will try to do a small ride and trying once again to fullfil the gearbox !
I ordered the transmission kit from FCP euro, it came with 7 liters. I drained the torque and transmission but not the oil cooler lines. Filled it with 7 liters. Should I drive to autozone and buy 2 more liters?
Put more fluid in and cap it quickly, don't tighten it all the way, just a few turns. Start the car, run through the gears, including reverse. Once temp is reached shut off engine, remove plug and re-cap when fluid doesn't flow freely anymore. Being at the EXACT temp is pretty important.
Sorry, you say, 'Once temp is reached shut off engine, remove plug and re-cap when fluid doesn't flow freely anymore'. I thought the engine must be running when you unplug. I seem to have the idea the engine MUST be running.
The engine must be running. With the engine running and your foot on brake, run the transmission through all gears few times. Then put transmission in park and keep the engine running until transmission temperature reaches 45°C/113°F. Then quickly remove the adapter and allow the excess fluid to drain out until a small quantity still drains out. Then reinstall the transmission pan drain plug and tighten to 22Nm.
This is how I did the transmission flush with filter change on my 2005 CLK500 convertible. Because my 722.9 doesn't have the TC drain, I flushed it through the upper radiator tran line. I used the garden sprayer ($5 from Walmart) to pump the ATF up. Using Mityvac MVA588 ATF Refill Adapter that I bought on Amazon for around $15. It worked great. Everything went smooth, just time consuming. After draining and removing the pan I got 4 L. Then I pumped 4 L in. Then flushed 3 times with 2 L out and pumped 2 L in each time. In the last 4th flush I flashed 1 L out (new fluid was already coming out) and pumped 2 L in. So I got total 11 L out and put 12 L in. And then at 45C I had the fluid coming out in constant flow. I used Fuchs Titan ATF 4134. To measure temperature I used both a digital multimeter with the temp probe taped to the pan and IR thermometer.
Then put transmission in park and keep the engine running until transmission temperature reaches 45°C/113°F. Then quickly remove the adapter and allow the excess fluid to drain out until a small quantity still drains out.
But in this case, the engine temperature is still ncreasing and level check sould not be good.
I just bought a garden sprayer,I will to try to fillfull the gearbox this evening, I watched a video, one advice is to push the new oil, engine running and gearbox on N position, what do you thing about it ?
Hello All,
It's now ok, in this kind of situation I have some regrets regarding all the english courses missed when i was a student
The solution was simple, the gearbox filling has to be done while engine is running.
Hello All,
It's now ok, in this kind of situation I have some regrets regarding all the english courses missed when i was a student
The solution was simple, the gearbox filling has to be done while engine is running.
Hi. You won't have gears because transmission also forms part of the set you changed, key data is also inside the transmission ecu. So now it's a mismatch.
Make the transmission ecu virgin and relearn drive authorization with xentry
This thread is way too helpful! Thanks again, just bought all the parts needed. Amazing DIY.
EDIT: after further reading, I've found out that WEISTEC builds a trans pan for that transmission. Considering a regular use (of my w204 C63), maybe three or four trackdays a year, what would you suggest? Is it worthy upgrade the trans pan? It is around 500usd more expensive.
Hi. You won't have gears because transmission also forms part of the set you changed, key data is also inside the transmission ecu. So now it's a mismatch.
Make the transmission ecu virgin and relearn drive authorization with xentry
Man thanks a lot for this information.
I will contact to the indicated person. thanks again.
Sorry I don't understand your question, but 75W 140 gear oil is nothing like ATF 134
This thread is all about servicing 722.9 7G-tronic automatic transmission, not the differential.
Yes, Yes, you are correct, I mixed information... A second after I've posted I realized I was talking about differential oil (75w140) and the picture I've posted was about transmission oil. I was 100% wrong...
Glad I found this thread. I am going to be doing this on our 09' w211. I'm not sure if the previous owner did it and I know I haven't done it in the last two years... so I am going to do this.
I have a lift in my garage so it won't be hard getting the car up and I also have STAR so I can monitor the temps.
Comes with a slightly deeper OEM MB transmission pan but I think more importantly it comes with supposedly a better/newer filter element. So that's fine. I checked the fluid and it's on the approved list above.
I almost bought the $200 pump on their site but then reading here, I will just buy the $10 garden sprayer and hook it up to the adaptor/filler port that I bought from them.
It's coming with 8L of fluid but from everything I am reading here, you are only pulling out around 4L when draining. So what is the best way to get the extra 3L into the system?
It's coming with 8L of fluid but from everything I am reading here, you are only pulling out around 4L when draining. So what is the best way to get the extra 3L into the system?
I got "most" of my stuff yesterday. Some items were missing from the order so I have to wait until later in the week to do this but I think this isn't going to be that bad now watching the videos and reading everything in all 14 pages here.
I DO have one last question as I fogot to order the Torque Converter bolt. It's a $2 item and with shipping it'll come to around $8..lol. Is this 100% needed to be replaced if I remove the old one? I looks like the bolt has a copper washer, and thread locker on it from the factory. My main concern would be the copper washer. I have thread locker but should I buy a new TC bolt to replace the one I remove to drain it? I saw in some posts people just put a dab of thread locker back on the bolt and put it back and used it again. I don't wan to do half solutions...etc. Just looking for input on that. It's paying more for shipping than the acatual item that is annoying to me..lol.
EDIT: I said screw it and ordered two more liters of fluid along with the TC bolt. Also ordered wipers to make it worth it for shipping...lol. Now I'll have 11 liters of fluid just in case. Prior to it I would have only 9 liters... 8 if you count what only comes in the FCP Euro kit.
Thanks again,
-Nigel
Last edited by NewShockerGuy; 05-25-2021 at 09:33 AM.
Anyone willing to read this whole thread and the links, will know all there is to regular maintenance of 722.9 G-Tronic.
I would suggest be careful & make sure the AT gasket area both sides are perfectly clean & oil free before re-installing the pan.
Your car may or may not already have the updated AT oil pan shown in the enclosure and yes, you may save $8 by reusing the old plug and the copper gasket but if it fails & leaks how much will that cost?
Welp I'm doing this tomorrow. I already have the car on the lift tonight waiting for the tranny fluid to cool slightly so I can begine draining. I do have a question as it doesn't phyically make sense to me.
According to the first document in this thread: Mercedes Benz 722.9 7Gtronic Automatic Transmission Service
In steps 24 when it says to pump ALL the fluid into the pan from what you gathered from draining the pan and torque converter, how is it possible for the pan to hold say 8qts? Phyically I mean.... I get that when you fill it up and turn the car on there will be a point when the torque converter pulls the fluid from the pan but I just want to make sure I am understanding it. That's the only thing that seems out of place to me. Wouldn't you fill the pan up to say 4qt that is pulled out, then start the car and as the car is started you fill up the remaining 4-5qts that were pulled from the torque converter? Run the through the gears...etc. Then wait until the temp is right to then unscrew the adaptor and watch it flow out until at the proper level...
Sorry if that is a silly questions but I wanted to ask as it doesn't seem 100% touched on or clear to me.
EDIT 1: Draiing fluid from the torque converter. What a stupid freaking place the drain plug is... damn thing was filling up that recessed area so I took a straw and put it in the hole to drain. MUCH cleaner that way. So far many qts slowly coming out. I WILL note that the fluid is not red! It's brown. Not burnt or smelly but I am glad I am changing it now! This will surely give me peace of mind once the new red stuff goes in. I'll post a picture of the fluid color in the morning. This is the straw I put into the TC hole. Made draining mucher cleaner and fluid wasn't collecting in the bell housing..lol Just a simple drink straw.
Here is the color of the fluid that I removed. It was brown.
Compare it to the new fluid on the right. (note it still looks dark but the white rag I was using wasn't spotless... I was wiping other stuff up with it.)
But overall a very good experience. The ONLY thing I forgot to do was put the car in natural when I was draining all the fluid.... :-( I realized this after the fact even though I read the directions multiple times. I am hoping that didn't/hasn't affected anything.
I pulled roughly 4.1qts of fluid from the oil pain. Draining the torque converter, I pulled out about 4.2qts of fluid. I put in about 9qts of fluid and then once it got to temp and I drained about .5 qts ... maybe less before I put back the drain plug. Shifting is very smooth. I used to have a small hardish clunk in 2nd going to and downshifting and now that appears to be completely gone. The $15 garden sprayer from Lowes worked great. I bought 3/8" ID tube to put over the wand and I bought a ball valve and put it inline before the drain plug adaptor so that way I could if needed shut the flow off so it wouldn't go back down the tube/hose.
One thing I did notice is that from 114 degrees one the trans fluid was at that temp it went up pretty quick or I was too slow when finally getting everything back together. I think the trans temp was around 120 degrees F once I checked STAR again after I had drained and put the oil pan plug back in. I'm not sure how one would get that temp exactly and having it stay at 114 when draining. I think I'm fine though. I think I was dreading this for a little bit of time because I thought it was going to be much worse than what it was judging from my previous posts when I asked questions a couple years ago. Now I feel very confident in doing this again and it taking half the time and or helping other people...etc.
I love forums for this reason and everyone is able to help each other and or give feedback and tips/tricks.
Thanks much,
-Nigel
Last edited by NewShockerGuy; 06-30-2021 at 09:34 AM.
Welp I'm doing this tomorrow. I already have the car on the lift tonight waiting for the tranny fluid to cool slightly so I can begine draining. I do have a question as it doesn't phyically make sense to me.
According to the first document in this thread: Mercedes Benz 722.9 7Gtronic Automatic Transmission Service
In steps 24 when it says to pump ALL the fluid into the pan from what you gathered from draining the pan and torque converter, how is it possible for the pan to hold say 8qts? Phyically I mean.... I get that when you fill it up and turn the car on there will be a point when the torque converter pulls the fluid from the pan but I just want to make sure I am understanding it. That's the only thing that seems out of place to me. Wouldn't you fill the pan up to say 4qt that is pulled out, then start the car and as the car is started you fill up the remaining 4-5qts that were pulled from the torque converter? Run the through the gears...etc. Then wait until the temp is right to then unscrew the adaptor and watch it flow out until at the proper level...
Sorry if that is a silly questions but I wanted to ask as it doesn't seem 100% touched on or clear to me.
EDIT 1: Draiing fluid from the torque converter. What a stupid freaking place the drain plug is... damn thing was filling up that recessed area so I took a straw and put it in the hole to drain. MUCH cleaner that way. So far many qts slowly coming out. I WILL note that the fluid is not red! It's brown. Not burnt or smelly but I am glad I am changing it now! This will surely give me peace of mind once the new red stuff goes in. I'll post a picture of the fluid color in the morning. This is the straw I put into the TC hole. Made draining mucher cleaner and fluid wasn't collecting in the bell housing..lol Just a simple drink straw.
Here is the color of the fluid that I removed. It was brown.
Compare it to the new fluid on the right. (note it still looks dark but the white rag I was using wasn't spotless... I was wiping other stuff up with it.)
But overall a very good experience. The ONLY thing I forgot to do was put the car in natural when I was draining all the fluid.... :-( I realized this after the fact even though I read the directions multiple times. I am hoping that didn't/hasn't affected anything.
I pulled roughly 4.1qts of fluid from the oil pain. Draining the torque converter, I pulled out about 4.2qts of fluid. I put in about 9qts of fluid and then once it got to temp and I drained about .5 qts ... maybe less before I put back the drain plug. Shifting is very smooth. I used to have a small hardish clunk in 2nd going to and downshifting and now that appears to be completely gone. The $15 garden sprayer from Lowes worked great. I bought 3/8" ID tube to put over the wand and I bought a ball valve and put it inline before the drain plug adaptor so that way I could if needed shut the flow off so it wouldn't go back down the tube/hose.
One thing I did notice is that from 114 degrees one the trans fluid was at that temp it went up pretty quick or I was too slow when finally getting everything back together. I think the trans temp was around 120 degrees F once I checked STAR again after I had drained and put the oil pan plug back in. I'm not sure how one would get that temp exactly and having it stay at 114 when draining. I think I'm fine though. I think I was dreading this for a little bit of time because I thought it was going to be much worse than what it was judging from my previous posts when I asked questions a couple years ago. Now I feel very confident in doing this again and it taking half the time and or helping other people...etc.
I love forums for this reason and everyone is able to help each other and or give feedback and tips/tricks.
Thanks much,
-Nigel
How do we check with the VIN or Transmission Number if we have TC drain plug available or its only pan
How do we check with the VIN or Transmission Number if we have TC drain plug available or its only pan
Don't know about checking with VIN number, but the way I did it was while the car was on the ramps I had a helper slowly rotate the engine (the correct direction) with a socket wrench while I was watching the converter under the car.
Easy to spot it that way.
I realize you are trying to fugue it out ahead of time.....sorry can not help with that.
06-11-2019, 06:25 PM
