DIY 722.9 7G-tronic 7-speed automatic transmission service thread
Thread Starter
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From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Northeast PA-Poconos
2014 E350, 2006 C350 Sport(made it to 280k, loved it!), 1990 300E
It did not take 12 Liters, but 10 for me.
You pretty much have to replace what you take out, plus 1 Liter.
I took out 9 Liters. I added 1 Liter.
6 Liters is too little. Perhaps your tech was only draining the oil from the pan and not the torque converter. I took out 4 Liters from the torque converter and another 5 Liters from the pan.
You pretty much have to replace what you take out, plus 1 Liter.
I took out 9 Liters. I added 1 Liter.
6 Liters is too little. Perhaps your tech was only draining the oil from the pan and not the torque converter. I took out 4 Liters from the torque converter and another 5 Liters from the pan.
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
I see AMG is now using the 722.9 on the SL65.
See how that works out. They finally dumped the 5 speed.
Sadly.
But they only plan to build like 40.
See how that works out. They finally dumped the 5 speed.
Sadly.
But they only plan to build like 40.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
AMG have been using the 722.9 for quite a while now - suitably fettled. The SL65 will use the new 7GTronic Plus transmission. It's a complete redesign with it's own 236.15 fluid that is not backwards compatible.
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Great guide! I am about to attempt this but have a question... I see where the torque converter fluid needs to be drained out... but I don't see any instructions on filling the torque converter back with fluid. Is this just accomplished automatically when filling the transmission itself?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Great guide! I am about to attempt this but have a question... I see where the torque converter fluid needs to be drained out... but I don't see any instructions on filling the torque converter back with fluid. Is this just accomplished automatically when filling the transmission itself?
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From: San Jose, CA
2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
I think I have this right from reading the previous pages.
By the way, to the OP, good write up. I will use this reference at my next change (120kmi). I wonder if my 2007 has the TC drain plug.
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C350
Transmission Pan
Hey Guys,
Anyone have more info on the new redesigned pan? From the pdfs the new pan just has an angle on the side closer to the engine so I should be able to see it from underneath? What is the cost of the new pan and is it dealer only? Also if it costs a lot can I use the new fill tube in the old pan?
2008 C350 32K miles
Anyone have more info on the new redesigned pan? From the pdfs the new pan just has an angle on the side closer to the engine so I should be able to see it from underneath? What is the cost of the new pan and is it dealer only? Also if it costs a lot can I use the new fill tube in the old pan?
2008 C350 32K miles
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W164 ML 320
722.9 Error: P0717 - DIY fix idea...
Hi,
My 2007 ML320 is coming up with error P0717 and entering limp home mode quite regularly. This usually happens after around 60 miles driving, and appears to happen more often in the summer months.
I know that the correct solution is to have the dealer replace the conductor plate, and have a quote for this work which seems reasonable.
However, this doesn't explain what is actually going wrong at the electronics level, its just a straight forward this is broken so lets replace it way of thinking, which is fine...
From my DIY mindset however, I find myself wondering, could it be that these speed sensor errors are ultimately related to the circuitry overheating during driving - as this would explain why the mileage that triggers the error is always similar.
Does anyone know if this error is actually because the components are actually overheating, or if it is a different underlying problem?
I ask this, because if the problem is overheating circuitry, it should be fairly simple to overcome without replacing the conductor plate.
Many thanks,
Nathan
My 2007 ML320 is coming up with error P0717 and entering limp home mode quite regularly. This usually happens after around 60 miles driving, and appears to happen more often in the summer months.
I know that the correct solution is to have the dealer replace the conductor plate, and have a quote for this work which seems reasonable.
However, this doesn't explain what is actually going wrong at the electronics level, its just a straight forward this is broken so lets replace it way of thinking, which is fine...
From my DIY mindset however, I find myself wondering, could it be that these speed sensor errors are ultimately related to the circuitry overheating during driving - as this would explain why the mileage that triggers the error is always similar.
Does anyone know if this error is actually because the components are actually overheating, or if it is a different underlying problem?
I ask this, because if the problem is overheating circuitry, it should be fairly simple to overcome without replacing the conductor plate.
Many thanks,
Nathan
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Member
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Posts: 99
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
2008 c300 sport 4matic
I am on the fence about trying this myself. I just want to get a little more information about pumping the fluid back in. The PDF mentions something about using a ATF129 Drive Line filler adapter. Can this adapter be used with any "pump". Do I need to be worried about pumping any air into the system? After I pump all fluid into the transmission, do I stop the pressure?
For example, a Mityvac MV6844 Pressure bleeder has a shut-off valve attached to the hose. Would it be possible to use a set up like this and simply stop the pressure before all the fluid is emptied? It seems if I didn't do that, I would either get air in the transmission, or fluid coming back into the pump after pressure is released?
Or if I'm on the wrong track completely, is there anybody who could enlighten me a bit with an effective technique?
Thank You,
Troy
For example, a Mityvac MV6844 Pressure bleeder has a shut-off valve attached to the hose. Would it be possible to use a set up like this and simply stop the pressure before all the fluid is emptied? It seems if I didn't do that, I would either get air in the transmission, or fluid coming back into the pump after pressure is released?
Or if I'm on the wrong track completely, is there anybody who could enlighten me a bit with an effective technique?
Thank You,
Troy
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2
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W211
torque converter
@Glyn M Ruck you worte that the drain plug of the torque converters has been removed since mid '99; does the:
-W211, 5 transmission (2002) has a drain plug on the torque converter?
-W221, 7G Tronic (2008) has a drain plug on the torque converter?
If not, is there a way to get all the oil out of the trans, also the one in the torque converter?
Thx in advance
-W211, 5 transmission (2002) has a drain plug on the torque converter?
-W221, 7G Tronic (2008) has a drain plug on the torque converter?
If not, is there a way to get all the oil out of the trans, also the one in the torque converter?
Thx in advance
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 7
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GLK 350
I am due a 39k service for my 2010 GLK 350 4MATIC.
I am trying to decipher from all of the WIS documents, etc, the proper way to get them to drain the TC.
I was quoted $400 from my MB dealer to have the service done, but was told that there would only be 6qts replaced as they cannot drain the TC. From my research, it looks like they may be able to access a plug by tapping the crank and accessing it through the housing?
Could someone clarify this for me and let me know what documents I need to present my dealer with to have the job completed properly?
Thanks in advance.
I am trying to decipher from all of the WIS documents, etc, the proper way to get them to drain the TC.
I was quoted $400 from my MB dealer to have the service done, but was told that there would only be 6qts replaced as they cannot drain the TC. From my research, it looks like they may be able to access a plug by tapping the crank and accessing it through the housing?
Could someone clarify this for me and let me know what documents I need to present my dealer with to have the job completed properly?
Thanks in advance.
Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 64
From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
I am due a 39k service for my 2010 GLK 350 4MATIC.
I am trying to decipher from all of the WIS documents, etc, the proper way to get them to drain the TC.
I was quoted $400 from my MB dealer to have the service done, but was told that there would only be 6qts replaced as they cannot drain the TC. From my research, it looks like they may be able to access a plug by tapping the crank and accessing it through the housing?
Could someone clarify this for me and let me know what documents I need to present my dealer with to have the job completed properly?
Thanks in advance.
I am trying to decipher from all of the WIS documents, etc, the proper way to get them to drain the TC.
I was quoted $400 from my MB dealer to have the service done, but was told that there would only be 6qts replaced as they cannot drain the TC. From my research, it looks like they may be able to access a plug by tapping the crank and accessing it through the housing?
Could someone clarify this for me and let me know what documents I need to present my dealer with to have the job completed properly?
Thanks in advance.
I would just print out the WIS and hand it to the dealer, and tell them you want them to follow the WIS instructions to the letter, including the torque converter drain.
Getting to the drain is as simple as rotating the crankshaft until the plug is seen through the access hole.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
John - We listed the minor update puely because some dealers on the W204 forum questioned the WIS date. There is no change of any consequence.
Thread Starter
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,403
Likes: 64
From: Camas, WA
2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
I am on the fence about trying this myself. I just want to get a little more information about pumping the fluid back in. The PDF mentions something about using a ATF129 Drive Line filler adapter. Can this adapter be used with any "pump". Do I need to be worried about pumping any air into the system? After I pump all fluid into the transmission, do I stop the pressure?
For example, a Mityvac MV6844 Pressure bleeder has a shut-off valve attached to the hose. Would it be possible to use a set up like this and simply stop the pressure before all the fluid is emptied? It seems if I didn't do that, I would either get air in the transmission, or fluid coming back into the pump after pressure is released?
Or if I'm on the wrong track completely, is there anybody who could enlighten me a bit with an effective technique?
Thank You,
Troy
For example, a Mityvac MV6844 Pressure bleeder has a shut-off valve attached to the hose. Would it be possible to use a set up like this and simply stop the pressure before all the fluid is emptied? It seems if I didn't do that, I would either get air in the transmission, or fluid coming back into the pump after pressure is released?
Or if I'm on the wrong track completely, is there anybody who could enlighten me a bit with an effective technique?
Thank You,
Troy
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
GLK 350
I will update the 1st post with the latest WIS document today. It has been revised since I posted. Very minor difference, but the torque converter instructions are the same.
I would just print out the WIS and hand it to the dealer, and tell them you want them to follow the WIS instructions to the letter, including the torque converter drain.
Getting to the drain is as simple as rotating the crankshaft until the plug is seen through the access hole.
I would just print out the WIS and hand it to the dealer, and tell them you want them to follow the WIS instructions to the letter, including the torque converter drain.
Getting to the drain is as simple as rotating the crankshaft until the plug is seen through the access hole.
I'm actually heading in for service right now. We'll see how it goes! Hopefully my car isn't one that doesn't have a drain plug.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1
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2006 C230 Sport
Thanks for the great DIY, saved me some time for sure!
I wanted to say, for the filling procedure, I used a pesticide pump sprayer.
I cut the nozzle end off put the fluid in, pressurized it and walla. For ~$10 it is a great cheap option for filling the fluid, and it is not as much of a pain in the *** as the hand pump.
I also used a infrared thermometer to check fluid temp for topping off the fluid by taking readings of the bottom/sides of the pan. Worked great!
Thanks again!
I wanted to say, for the filling procedure, I used a pesticide pump sprayer.
I cut the nozzle end off put the fluid in, pressurized it and walla. For ~$10 it is a great cheap option for filling the fluid, and it is not as much of a pain in the *** as the hand pump.
I also used a infrared thermometer to check fluid temp for topping off the fluid by taking readings of the bottom/sides of the pan. Worked great!
Thanks again!
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 20
Likes: 2
2006 C230 Sedan
Hello. Thanks for the great write up. I have a 2005 E500 with the 722.901 transmission. I would like to get the new transmission oil pan. I've looked everywhere for the part number for that. Could you please post the part number for the new oil pan and what non-dealer places I can get one?
Thanks
Thanks
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 20
Likes: 2
2006 C230 Sedan
Hello all. I'm going to embark on thie project soon after the parts come. Just wanted to let you know that I used http://www.mil-specproducts.com/default.aspx to order the Shell ATF 134 for 67.00 + shipping for a 12 quart case. The oil wasn't on the website, so I had to call to order it and the lady said she's going to make sure it gets on the website, but if it isn't there then call them to order.
I ordered the rest of the parts from www.GetMercedesParts.com. I also called them because they are actually a Mercedes dealer in Annapolis. The parts guy there was awesome. I ordered the new oil pan (part # 220 270 12 12), oil filter, gasket, white fill tube, pan bolts and torque converter drain plug and seal for $88.00 + shipping.
I also ordered the Assenmacher Fill Adapter and will get a infared thermometer at my local Harbor Freight for 26.00 bucks.
Going forward, the cost to do the change will only be the oil and parts (minus the oil pan) which will cost me only $113 or so + shipping. that is way better than the 400 or so the dealer wants plus I know it is being done right. I guess I could also buy all the parts and oil and take the WIS doc to an indy and ask them what the cost for labor would be to do that procedure. That would probably be $200 or so so even that route would be $100 less than dealer and a superior service.
Wish me luck on my tranny oil change. Take care!
I ordered the rest of the parts from www.GetMercedesParts.com. I also called them because they are actually a Mercedes dealer in Annapolis. The parts guy there was awesome. I ordered the new oil pan (part # 220 270 12 12), oil filter, gasket, white fill tube, pan bolts and torque converter drain plug and seal for $88.00 + shipping.
I also ordered the Assenmacher Fill Adapter and will get a infared thermometer at my local Harbor Freight for 26.00 bucks.
Going forward, the cost to do the change will only be the oil and parts (minus the oil pan) which will cost me only $113 or so + shipping. that is way better than the 400 or so the dealer wants plus I know it is being done right. I guess I could also buy all the parts and oil and take the WIS doc to an indy and ask them what the cost for labor would be to do that procedure. That would probably be $200 or so so even that route would be $100 less than dealer and a superior service.
Wish me luck on my tranny oil change. Take care!
