seems like you've been getting some weird issues man...hope all gets solved soon and make the most powerful C32 on the board

Remember, your system is seperate. Mine is still all in one. I doubt that anyone on the forum can pound their car 30 mins WOT in 107 heat and not get heat soak. My fluid has never gotten over 100, except for the one time I had an air pocket in the system a week or so ago. The car generally stays between 80 and 100...which is still hot.

Like I said before, the custom radiator is to remove the tranny fluid from the radiator and provide extra fluid in the system. If you think that plastic POS radiator in our car is the best there is, then you are mistaken. MB uses that same radiator on most of the W203 models and almost all of them have had issues...including yours.

Heat transfer comes from numerous sources on our car, including the engine coolant.

I still have not decided if I'm going to install the extra tank in the car. I think it's silly to have a tank in the trunk of the car for IC fluid. I also think that using the washer fluid tank for IC cooling is the last thing I want to do. The new radiator and billet expansion tank will add much more needed coolant to the system.

Now, ask yourself a question. Why pay $300 for another MB radiator that you have already replaced in less than 30k miles when you can buy a larger, all aluminum radiator with more rows, fins, and better cooling for $50 more? You can even pay $100 more and get one with a detached tranny cooler that would eliminate any chance of gycol contamination.

I don't know about you, but I don't want to bring my car to MB to have the tranny replaced when it could have been avoided.

Thanks man! It has been a little frustrating, but I'm learning more about the car everyday.

I have to get this issue worked out so I can move forward with the other mods.

Jerry -

When is your radiator supposed to arrive? Can you post the measurements on your rad & cooler? You have me thinking about following the same option you did with the seperate tranny cooler & rad.

Good luck with all your problems. I really hope RENNtech finds an easy solution. I know all of us on the board are rooting for you to get everything worked out and put down some monster numbers.

Jerry - Good Luck with your car buddy

I should know something by the end of next week.

Do you have a part number for your radiator? One of our part numbers is 2035002503. If they are the same, then all that is needed is to verify that the new unit will fit in your car.

What I am saying is that the car does not overheat in those conditions. The water temp stays below 100C. Normally in the 80-95 range. Yes, the IAT's suffer from heatsoak, but that will not be solved by a new radiator.

If you are not running colder plugs then you should switch to some IK-22's and it will drop the water temps another 5 degrees or so.

Anyway just trying to help with your fuel pressure issue. Good luck with the lean running condition, it has nothing to do with heat.

I think you guys misunderstood me. I never said that the radiator would lower IAT temps or that my issues are heat related. I'm not replacing the radiator to solve any heat issues that our car has. I'm replacing it to remove the tranny fluid so I never have to worry about that issue. Will the engine coolant be cooler because of this? It should, but only time will tell.

I'm replacing the stock IC Heat Exchanger to help keep IAT's in check. I ordered an extra tank for the IC coolant if I decide to seperate it.

Here is what I'm going to do:

1. Install new C&R radiator and tranny cooler
2. Install new IC Heat Exchanger
3. Install new Johnson Pump
4. Test IAT's

If IAT's are still high during multiple runs, then:

5. Install new IC reservoir and seperate the system
6. Move the battery to the trunk

If IAT's are still high during multiple runs, then:

7. Upgrade the Intercooler


Right now I'm running IK-20's and they seem to be working well. I also had my fuel pressure checked a few weeks ago and it's right where it should be.

Jerry -

I will look at the part number when I get a chance but I am pretty sure at least the first three numbers will be differnt.

Where did you get the fittings to make the Johnson pump work... Oh, that is right you have a new IC so don't have that issue. Never mind.

I am thinking about contacting Evosport about purcashing the windshield washer replacement tank. I never use the windshield washers and don't have the room in the engine bay or trunk you guys do.

I'm going to Houston in a few weeks and I'll measure everything for you. My dad has an SLK.

Thanks Jerry.

I checked and the part numbers are different.

The heat exchanger is much smaller on the SLK32 than the C32. In the past, the dealer ordered the SLK32 cooling system (heat exchanger, etc) by mistake, and when I compared it to the stock heat exchanger on the C32, it's about 20% smaller. Probably because the front end of the SLK32 is smaller and narrower.

Good information thanks!

The funny thing is that the SLK32 seems to suffer less from heat soak than the the other SC'd cars. I guess it has something to do with the lighter weight.

To give you an idea of what I am talking about at the drag strips I have run 4 back-to-back 1/4 mile runs all at 13.0x with no cool off time. Finish a run and maybe wait for 1 or 2 other cars to go. Also running a road course lap times are very consistent.

That's impressive. My dad has never mentioned anything about it either...then again, we have very different driving styles.

The SLK32 is a 12.8 1/4 mile car stock if you can hook up.

Remember when it was released the SLK32 was the fastest (street) car ever produced by AMG.

We had 5 SLK32's on the dyno the same day and were all within 6 HP of each other.

The ECU will be delivered back to me today. Renntech says when they read out the ECU, it showed that it was updated...but they did notice the modified map was still loaded.

They added more fuel to the map and I will try to get to the Dyno tomorrow to see if there was a difference. If there is no change, then there is something else wrong with the car.

Renntech also assures me that with a good tune, I should see a maximum of 45HP from my current numbers. This still puts me below my original numbers, so I guess I will have to wait and see.

OK, I'm finally making some progress with the car. With the help of a few forum members, I have eliminated the rough idle that I once had. The car now idles like it did when I bought it...smooth and no vibrations.

I'm not sure what fixed the problem, but here is what I did over the past week.

1. Replaced O2 Sensor (Bank 2 Sensor 1 - Bank 1 Sensor 1 was replaced about 1000 miles ago)
2. Replaced Aero resonator with new bottle resonator.
3. Replaced AMG exhaust with free flowing Remus.
4. I noticed an EGR line that was crimped between the valve cover and fuel rail. I removed the line and routed it differently.

It took about 150 miles, but the car now idles perfectly.

On a side note, I noticed that one of my ignition coils isn't firing on both plugs. I decided to do a compression check this weekend and after I was done, I decided to check the coils. I removed 1 plug wire from each coil and started the car. It ran perfectly for about 3 minutes, so I checked the next set. Cylinder 4 did not fire until I installed the second plug wire. So, I will check the plug wire today and if it's OK, I will order a new coil. I thought that the coil fired both plug wires simultaneously and that the circuit was the same.

The compression test was perfect. I randomly checked 3 cylinders and they were all 150 PSI, including Cyl. 1.

After I got the car back together, I hooked up my laptop to clear out the Cyl. 4 misfire code and I noticed that there was a pending DTC. It was P0105 - which is for the MAP sensor. Luckily, last week I ordered a new MAP sensor (a few people said a faulty MAP sensor would cause most of the problems I've been having), 2 new knock sensors, cam position sensor, and new EGR valves / gaskets.

I figured if I'm going to replace sensors, I might as well replace almost all of the important ones and start over fresh. I forgot to order the IAT temp sensor and will get that ordered this week.

The S/C clutch was giving me issues, but that problem is gone. It started out not engaging about 10% of the time. Before it went away, it was happening about 50% of the time. I think it was related to the crimped EGR hose.

OK, now I have a question for those of you that have removed your throttle body. On the bottom, there is the EGR line that connects both valve covers together with the TB. If you look inside that hose, what do you see? Mine was cut up and there was major blockage. It seemed like it went from a 1/2" line to something smaller, but it was damaged. I removed the damaged pieces and now it's a true 1/2".

I'm going to drive the car for a week to see if any old problems come back from the dead before I hit the Dyno again.

Jerry,

Pleased to see you have made even more progress. Chasing down those intermittent drivability problems can be a challenging ordeal.

The hoses/tubes from the valve covers to the throttle body are for PCV, not EGR. They should indeed be clear and leak free. Leaks can cause intermittent spurious MAP readings and signals even though it connects upstream of the throttle.

There is so much good knowledge and problem solving on this thread.

Good stuff. Hope everything works out.

E

WOW! HUGE THREAD READ SOME OF IT. YOU ARE CREATIVE AND WILL FIGURE IT OUT BUT LET ME KNOW WHEN YOU GO TO DYNO SO I CAN ALSO OK. CALL ME SOMETIME I AM MORE LEANING TO ADDING WAY MORE POWER TO AFTER MY SITUATION IS DONE.

CARS LOOKING AWESOME!

please do me a favor and take the caps lock off...caps lock = screaming/mad at someone usually...thanks!

Its not done purposely. I only have one hand and its alot easier to either caps on or off but to make you happy and not mess this thread up I will take the additional time to write ok.

Sorry Jerry.

Any updates on the project?

Supersprint offers a set but they are expensive...

I am pretty sure the supersprint headers are discontinued