jturkel

as promised, i have taken some pictures. i apologize for my inability to take good pictures, whether it was due to a lack of lighting or unsteady hands lol.

came out good for the most part and definitely picked up some decent power. notice in the 4th picture that just to the right of the light beings shined on the splitter, the splitter hose part is a little scrunched up. im not quite sure how i am going to fix that. there is literally no space to unscrunch it. im thinking about taking off the air box cover and filter, sticking my finger up into the splitter area, and trying to push it out a little bit. is it impeding flow? eh, maybe. but it could look a little cleaner ( i like symmetry). that was caused by the driver side extension of the splitter being a little too short.

jturkel

more pics

notice that i was able to fit the SL55 intake hoses into our radiator support air inlets without cutting or splicing (seen in 2,3,5,6 pic)

wawy

Interesting..
I have the VRP E55 V8 Kompressor Airboxes that hook up to my stock airtubes/inlets. I might see if I can make some bigger tubes although I'm not sure with what yet..

Koru_Kinshi

Where/who did you purchase the kit from?

jturkel

it didnt come as a kit. i order the 5 different parts from www.parts.com. Cheaper than that brendon guy that everyone recommends.

5.0seven

your a fish frog....

DarkXerox

Looks good! Might wanna lay off the coffee and use a flash haha. Did you have to cut the tabs on the boxes to make it fit?

jturkel

all the tabs had to be cut off on the driver side. this include the tabs on the bottom as well as the ones on the front end (side attaching to the intake hoses) on the passenger side, the rear tab had to be removed, but i was able to keep the front one on. i did have to trim the cam cover or the oil cap like others mentioned either. i did have to move one of the harnesses on the driver side by the splitter to next to the fuse box under the cover. there is a little hole that it can be pushed through to allow for more space.

and actually they dont need to be cut. they are clips that can be removed by applying pressure to them with a screwdriver. you can put them back in if you want this way.

TemjinX2

looks good..well sorta haha. I think you need to invest in a camera with optical stablization.

The mod looks good...i'll probably does this once i finish all my other performance mods.

jturkel

yah i like the way it looks. the s/c whine is certainly not as apparent as before, but this has a deeper air sound to it (idk how else to explain it). it might look better if i retrofit the SL55 cover on it as others have done, but im not sure i want to do that. i might just black out the boxes and the rest of that area except for the AMG letters and do those in red or something

and yah, its actually not my camera. mine was recently stolen from my car which was broken into at school in a parking garage. i have a bunch of dinks above my driver door now. totally lame.

MikeR

Good job. You guys really do not have much room in the C32. I put the SL55 in my SRT6 and it fit just fine and I can reach down behind it to the crankshaft position sensor with a little effort. I agree that you dont get the4 SC whine, but more of an air roar when you floor it. I didnt cut any thing off mine to fit. Just had to make some brackets to relocate all the clips forward 1.5 inches.

MikeR

c32used

I'll be joining you soon...

mdncn2762

Ive had this MOD for about a year now with no problems. Instead of using normal clamps I used turn key clamps because I was always taking it apart. Decent MOD. Keep an eye on the Y splitter near the fire wall. Some have had holes wear thru due to rubbing.

60n5pt1

How much total cost for the 5 different parts?
C3 is $150.00 and a simple install. It only took me 30 minutes max.
How long did it take to do the SL55 mod. Level of difficulty? How much alterations was necessary?

Question is: whose got the advantage product and performance (proven HP gain) wise?

razormb

So do you feel that this mod outperformed the C3P intake? if so by how much? I know real dyno #s would clear things up but butt dyno is ok for now.

DarkXerox

If you search the forum, there have been posts in the past as this mod has been around since like '03 and used to be part of the evosport kits. But it is way cheaper now as there are suppliers with the parts we can get directly. One of the SRT-6 guys dynoed it with his pullied car and picked up 25whp with the full intake (Splitter, airboxes, hoses).

Edit: here's the thread to save you some time --> https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...l55-setup.html

Gramma_Benz

From my understanding, it gains are more fully realized with a modded car, such as crank pulley or Code3 pulley.

razormb

Ive seen that post before but I didnt see any actual dyno numbers in there unless I need to register on the Crossfire forum. He is stating 25whp over stock which translates to 12whp gains over C3P+Pulley and 18whp w/o C3P pulley and 9whp over Let intake. Just wondering other than profit why both C3 and LET, lets throw in Needswings as well, would decide to create their own intakes instead of just doing the SL55 intake?

60n5pt1

So true, but the mentioned SRT-6 thread indicated stock dyno pull results before SL55 intake (292) and with SL55 intake only (317) no pulley. Amazing. 25 HP gain
Code3 maintains 6-8 RWHP.

razormb

Just saw your post below...

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...e3-intake.html

DarkXerox

Same with the code 3 intake, which picked up only 4-7whp on a stock car according to the website. However, one of the crossfire guys ran a 12.8 with only the SL 55 full intake, whereas the fastest stock ones run in the 13.0-13.1 range. The ones that get the needswings mod run in the 12.7 range. http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...ad.php?t=21449

TemjinX2

The code3 intake was developed when the sl55 intakes around going for $365. The code3 intake was $150...when you bought it when they had the 20% off sale it was more like $120.

jturkel

yah that is definitely how i would describe the noise

jturkel

i took off basically all the clips near the firewall that were projecting out. the part i am most concerned about with rubbing or causing wear is the pinch weld. i may put some kind of pad over it to make it less sharp. my splitter somewhat rubs against it

jturkel

um....my roommate and i did it. took like an hr to an hr and a half. just required some patience for putting in that splitter, a flat head screw driver (to remove the clips that could be replaced at a later time) and a dremmel to help remove the ones that weren't removable (and cannot not be replaced after being "cut" off)

as far as alterations, i just had to remove those clips on the underside of the airboxes: all on the driver air box, and the rear one on the passenger side. also had to dremmel off the front tabs on the driver side airbox.

gain wise: you can definitely tell the difference in the two intakes. the code3 definitely has more low end. you punch it and you can immediately feel the response. the sl55 doesnt necessarily lack low end, but it really flourishes top end. you really feel it pull harder than the code3 top end. the only thing i miss is the loud s/c whine of the code3.

price:
i ordered all five pieces from parts.com. With shipping, it came out to $278.xx. I also had to purchase four 3-4' clamps from Home Depot. That was like an addition $2 or something.