I know there are a few things that need to be done that always go bad. Here's what i have already done.

Intercooler pump: i changed it myself, bought the bosch pump from ford racing. now supercharger stays engaged.

Power seat drain: rewired both seats: no more power drain and navi/comand fan stays off

Brakes: front rotors and pads. i changed them myself with oem parts ($220 for brand new rotors and pads instead of paying $500+ just for parts from MB)

And here's what i hear i have to replace:

1. Replace stock radiator with Behr radiator
2. Change alternator, i dont know if i should get the bosch or valeo one, can anyone help?
3. Purge valve (it ticks)
4. One valve cover is slightly leaking so im just gonna replace both


So i would like to have the car runnning perfect before i add the 185mm pulley kit and tune from eurocharged along with the heat exchanger, and i will also get an intake kit. So i will have the pulley, tune, HE, and intake kit before i install anything, i want to install all at the same time for cooling issues, etc.


Any suggestion sor help from you guys who have the c32's?


thanks

 

I would do a transmission flush, change the rear differential fluid, change the supercharger oil, brake fluid and upgrade to ss lines, and I would go over all your bolts and make sure they are all tight. I would see about getting an oil catch can as well.

 

looks like you've got most of your bases covered thus far.

how many miles are you your car? alternator should be good for 80-90k. i know people say you need to replace the whole alternator and not the voltage regulator because it is internal....but you can replace the internal voltage regulator....i've done it. should save you money (25-50 bucks depending on your model alternator vs like 100-250 for a refurb or new alternator) too

also, depending on your mileage, you may want to consider replacing the supercharger bearing....you'll know if it is going bad b/c you'll hear a grinding metallics sound coming from around the pulley.

maybe also changing your tranny fluid. it can get super nasty after a while. i just changed mine at 90k and it was bad.

if you are going to do the 185, i would also suggest using 1 step colder plugs gapped at about .034 to compensate for the additional power and boost.

also, i would suggest the Needswings Pulley Saver Kit (NW PSK) to install with the EC 185mm Pulley. essentially, this prevents overspinning all of your accessory pulleys and prevents premature bearing failure. includes a couple different pulleys, larger belt, bracket.

You can get the NW PSK and the S/C Bearing here and here: http://needswings.com/Pulley-Saver-K...gs-psk185.aspx
http://needswings.com/Supercharger-B...scBearing.aspx

hope that helps!

 

The car is about to hit 90k. its an 2002. Bought it at 87k, so i want to keep it in good shape as it should be since the car is rare I love this thing.

So besides what i have listed, i know i need a transmission flush, so that will be taken care of.

would an independant shop know how to change the supercharger bearing? and oil?

Also, changing the brake fluid sounds like a DIY, is it hard to change the brake fluid yourself?

I will be ordering needwings oil catch can kit+gasket set, and i think i will have the phenolic spacers installed while the intake manifold is already off. Couldnt hurt right?

As far as plugs go, i was going to get the NGK Iridium IX Spark plugs set (1 heat range colder) http://www.needswings.com/NGK-Iridiu...kr7eix-11.aspx

And will add the 8.5mm plug wires as well.

What are upgraded SS lines?

I have tried finding out what the pulley saver kit does and dont quite understand besides that it removes the use of an idler pulley. I was going to go with ASP since i hear they are better as far as pulleys go but they charge 1k for just the pulley kit while eurocharge is having the sale with the pulley kit and tune for 1k.

Another subject ive been debating about is the intake. I really dont see the point in spending 600-700 bucks on the dual intake kit (sl55 kit). is it really wirth it. i was going to just replace the stock air boxes with K&N's but then i feel like the emgine will be sucking in hot air since its not connecting to the inlets in front of the car thats getting cold air. Any suggestions?

Today when i started my car, i let it run for about 5-6 minutes, then drove it down the streeet and when i slowed down, it felt like the car was going to die, sputtered a little until i gave it gas. then a light popped on that said battery/alternator bring to workshop, etc. then i drove it down the street and parked. turned the car off and then back on, light went away and the car didnt do it again. i have a new battery in it so i know its not the battery, so i figuered it has to be the alternator. i have a folder with all receipts and maintenance done to the car and i dont remember seeing the alternator being replaced so i figured at 90k miles, its time for a new one. Everyone seems to be going with the bosch one since the valeo one isnt made in the US from what i hear. and its ahrd to find a real one, people say the outer shell is valeo but the internals arent.

I just want everything done right so im willing to spend a chunk of money to get the car in perfect condition before adding on mods, because i know it will create more problems if i just dump the money into mods wihtout changing the things i listed.

 

It sounds like you are fairly handy, so you could probably do the supercharger bearing and change the fluid yourself.

Here is the DIY for the supercharger oil http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...oil-change.pdf

Diy for Supercharger bearing: https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...r-bearing.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ics-video.html

What happens when you use a larger crank bearing, you will over rotate your accessory pulleys, on top of that some of the pulleys have a tendency to seize and cause a lot of damage. The pulley saver kit will relocate a pulley and use different sizes so that the pulleys run at stock rotation. It also includes a bar which will keep your pulley from becoming projectiles.

SS lines, stainless steel lines would be a nice upgrade when you are changing your brake fluid.

I'm not too sure on your other problem, maybe the battery, but I don't know.

 

you can try to make your own. i ordered all the parts like 2 yrs ago and it then only cost me like 280 to make. prices have gone up on those parts, IIRC. you can try posting up in the E55 or SL55 (m113k) sections and ask if anyone is selling their setups....save some cash there

if you are going 185, you need to upgrade your intake. you will be depriving the car of a lot of the power and won't see anywhere near it's potential because at that point, the intake becomes too much of a choke point

 

2 questions.

1. Are the brakes on the C32 and C55 the same?
2. If so, is there anything unique about the brake job or is it just like any other?

 

Actually Needswings recommends to not use the spacers. There is no proof of any gains, and they can creates issues!
I had this exact issue at one point, and it was due to a vacuum leak. Had nothing to do with the battery or alternator. My point of leakage was a line connecting to the rear of the supercharger. You can see this line if you look in the small open groove of the passenger side intake runner. Between the runner, and the supercharger. It's held in place with a rubber pressure gasket.
This is what I did for around $100 dollars. Top it off with a black paint job, and it doesn't look so bad. I wouldn't recommend PVC as I used. Find a metallic enclosure. Heat shield it all, and your good to go. Dyno results showed a 20WHP/20WTQ gain.

 

sounds like you got most of the major stuff covered. I would check your idler pulleys as well. You can buy the sl55 intake on parts.com for $350 shipped.

 

I was searching on parts.com, and couldn't find any of the part numbers. Could you provide links? $350 isn't bad at all for the full sl55 intake. Isn't it good for around 17WHP?

 

part numbers are listed on this link. I'm pretty happy with my purchase, but that Y pipe is a really tight fit. But i like how it keeps the oem look. The Butt dyno definitly pulls harder in the upper rpm.

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/...onversion.html

 

Thanks for the links bro. that should save me some money by doning it myself. Im assuming the radiator is a little more difficult huh? So you are suggesting me to buy the pulley saver kit to use along with the eurocharged 185mm pulley, and that kit removes the need for an idler puller correct?

Yes, bro, i will definitely upgrade the stock intake. I was thinking if the car is gonna be running more boost, it will definitely need more air. thanks
Simple job, just like any brake system ive vhanged. just dont forget to connect the sensors back in (one in front, 1 in the back)

Doesn't seem too stock or stylish, lol. But it looks like it does the job and keeps the incoming air cold. have you done a DIY?

The idler pulley has been changed in January byt the previous owner, i have the recipt from MB. But once i buy the pulley savers kit, that would eliminate the use of an idler pulley right?

Thank you all for the responses/ opinions and inputs, keep them coming

 

it removes the sc idler pulley and replaces some of the other idler pulleys and adds a alternator pulley. The pulley saver kit pulleys are larger so they spin slow so you don't have to replace them as often.

 

just go with the sl55 intake if you want the more oem look

 

here's my pulley saver kit review

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...it-review.html