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Exhaust Rattle C63S coupe.

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Old Mar 13, 2022 | 11:41 AM
  #301  
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Originally Posted by Fordgt40
Apologies for not getting back to you, the centre valve actuator has been replaced and it looks to have fixed the problem although I’ve got the old one and there doesn’t seem to be anything wrong with it certainly not with the spring anyway, not used the estate much since it was done so time will tell.
Thanks. At least we know it was the actuator and it's fixed now.

Cheerio
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Old Aug 30, 2022 | 02:39 AM
  #302  
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Originally Posted by Jimmy_c63s
You'll need new exhaust actuators. I'd bet the spring has snapped on one which would have been the bang you heard.
Either way you'll need actuator motors and Mercedes aren't cheap (huge rip off).

If you're out of warranty get 2 x Audi ones they're a lot cheaper. I've got two Audi ones in my rears on my performance exhaust. The part no. 4H0133246J for the Audi actuator they are all the same oem Kuster brand actuator for a wide range of cars from Volvo, Ford, Audi VW, Mopar, AMG and all work (tested a few of them).

The Ford actuator is the cheapest of the lot. Part no for that one is FR3Z-5K245-A.

Hello,

Do you know where you can buy valves compatible with the oem actuator?

I want to make a custom catback and use the oem opening and closing system.

Regards
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Old Aug 30, 2022 | 06:48 PM
  #303  
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c63s coupe, bmw 335i coupe (winterbeater)
Originally Posted by Jimmy_c63s
You'll need new exhaust actuators. I'd bet the spring has snapped on one which would have been the bang you heard.
Either way you'll need actuator motors and Mercedes aren't cheap (huge rip off).

If you're out of warranty get 2 x Audi ones they're a lot cheaper. I've got two Audi ones in my rears on my performance exhaust. The part no. 4H0133246J for the Audi actuator they are all the same oem Kuster brand actuator for a wide range of cars from Volvo, Ford, Audi VW, Mopar, AMG and all work (tested a few of them).

The Ford actuator is the cheapest of the lot. Part no for that one is FR3Z-5K245-A.

hey jimmy , out of curiosity how much are the Mercedes ones?
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Old Aug 30, 2022 | 08:08 PM
  #304  
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****I'm not Jimmy but in my area the Benz ones are about $250-$300 ish new. Ford ones are the cheapest at about $130-$140 ish each. It's the same actuator but without the AMG and Benz markings


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Old Sep 1, 2022 | 04:34 PM
  #305  
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My valves are squeaking like crazy, how do you go about lubing up the valves? just wd40 right into the exhaust where the flappers are?
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Old Oct 11, 2022 | 03:49 AM
  #306  
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Originally Posted by untamedd
wrong.

The car loses its growl if you keep the valve open.

i know this because initially I thought keeping the valve open would equal max sound but like you said the car lost its growl.

welded a metal disc in between after and voila all the growl was back without the annoying rattle.

This H valve is just too faulty. Even the one I got with the AWE Track exhaust started rattling. Could have ordered a new pipe under warranty but wanted a more permanent solution so fixed it the same way
Sorry to bring up an old topic, but was looking at welding my H valve shut to enhance the sound (thanks @untamedd for experimenting) and then got into thinking in order to prevent limp mode, or modifying the valve or using simulators to trick the car. Would it have the same effect welding a disk on either side of the h valve? That way the h valve is still free to open/close as per programmed logic but no exhaust flow going through? Thoughts?
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Old Oct 15, 2022 | 09:11 AM
  #307  
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Originally Posted by mars c63s
Sorry to bring up an old topic, but was looking at welding my H valve shut to enhance the sound (thanks @untamedd for experimenting) and then got into thinking in order to prevent limp mode, or modifying the valve or using simulators to trick the car. Would it have the same effect welding a disk on either side of the h valve? That way the h valve is still free to open/close as per programmed logic but no exhaust flow going through? Thoughts?
initial steps taken were not to enhance the sound but to keep original sound without the rattles.. whether or not your experiment enhances the sound is something to be seen. maybe you can share your findings here if you do decide on trying it out.
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Old Jan 16, 2023 | 10:06 PM
  #308  
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[QUOTE=Jimmy_c63s;8475917]You'll need new exhaust actuators. I'd bet the spring has snapped on one which would have been the bang you heard.
Either way you'll need actuator motors and Mercedes aren't cheap (huge rip off).

Can the center pipe actuator be disabled to remain fully open? If disconnected will it cause any engine codes? Talking to dealership tech department gets nowhere. Just endless conversations to nowhere about give us all your contact info so we can spam you with calls
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Old Jan 16, 2023 | 10:23 PM
  #309  
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Originally Posted by AMG Yipee
Can the center pipe actuator be disabled to remain fully open? If disconnected will it cause any engine codes? Talking to dealership tech department gets nowhere. Just endless conversations to nowhere about give us all your contact info so we can spam you with calls
If you disconnect the center pipe without a plug-in valve simulator or getting it "coded out", when driving it the car will go into soft limp mode and full boost won't be permitted.

Then you'll look smelly
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Old Jan 17, 2023 | 10:06 PM
  #310  
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Originally Posted by Jimmy_c63s
You'll need new exhaust actuators. I'd bet the spring has snapped on one which would have been the bang you heard.
Either way you'll need actuator motors and Mercedes aren't cheap (huge rip off).

If you're out of warranty get 2 x Audi ones they're a lot cheaper. I've got two Audi ones in my rears on my performance exhaust. The part no. 4H0133246J for the Audi actuator they are all the same oem Kuster brand actuator for a wide range of cars from Volvo, Ford, Audi VW, Mopar, AMG and all work (tested a few of them).

The Ford actuator is the cheapest of the lot. Part no for that one is FR3Z-5K245-A.

Lol this is literally the exact same part. Amazing, huge value right here.
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Old Mar 11, 2023 | 09:20 AM
  #311  
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2021 c63s

Hey guys I read through all the comments and what people did to remove that tattle coming from the middle actuator flap. I just bought a 2021 c63s and imideattly I had the rattle issue. The dealer even replaced all 3 actuators including the ones on both mufflers but the rattle was still there. I took it the car to a mechanic exhast shop I trust and have been going to for over a decade. They ended up removing the spring in the middle of the ahaust where that spring is and welding the flap closed. The rattle is completely gone but now the car is not as loud with the valve shut closed. I have two questions. If someone could shed some light.

1.Is removing the spring and welding the middle valve close create any issue? Or can? (Might be a stupid question I apologize)

2.How do I make the car louder? Do an x or h pipe and bypass the actuator by puting in a bypass plug? I am trying to avoid doing cattless downpipes.


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Old Mar 11, 2023 | 10:56 PM
  #312  
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Originally Posted by Kirill22
Hey guys I read through all the comments and what people did to remove that tattle coming from the middle actuator flap. I just bought a 2021 c63s and imideattly I had the rattle issue. The dealer even replaced all 3 actuators including the ones on both mufflers but the rattle was still there. I took it the car to a mechanic exhast shop I trust and have been going to for over a decade. They ended up removing the spring in the middle of the ahaust where that spring is and welding the flap closed. The rattle is completely gone but now the car is not as loud with the valve shut closed. I have two questions. If someone could shed some light.

1.Is removing the spring and welding the middle valve close create any issue? Or can? (Might be a stupid question I apologize)

2.How do I make the car louder? Do an x or h pipe and bypass the actuator by puting in a bypass plug? I am trying to avoid doing cattless downpipes.
Are you sure they welded it shut? Show us a photo?

When it's welded shut the car is DEFINITELY louder and more "boomy". I hated both as the boomy noise would sort of drone at times so I completely replaced the H-pipe section with a second hand one and reinstalled the valve and used the uprated spring. Every now and then I will lubricate with a bit of copper grease and I haven't had a rattle in 12 months nearly. Thank fuuck
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Old Apr 10, 2023 | 11:52 AM
  #313  
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Originally Posted by untamedd
Drove a bit more and ill share my final thoughts.. startups are more aggressive as the car seems to pop more. I do hear pops and crackles randomly even in C mode. The H valve would change the tone of the exhaust as you accelerated but as one would expect without the valve, the sound is constant as you now have a fully open H pipe. At least my car doesnt sound broken with all that annoying rattling!. Hope this solves some of your rattling issues!
how we doing what if someone was to cut the h pipe out and not fit the awe simulator what wood that do?
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Old Apr 16, 2023 | 03:21 PM
  #314  
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2017 Benz C63S Coupe
Hey guys/gals,

I’ve been having the same issue with my 2017 C63s coupe with AWE track exhaust - yes even the h-pipe from AWE has issues….

I had my h-pipe replaced by AWE under their warranty back in April 2019 due to the valve making noise at idle…. Thought I would be done with this issue…

Fast forward to Spring 2023 - now the H-pipe is making a rattling noise = its coming from the h-pipe… Had it checked out and the valve is rattling - so bad at idle - makes me not want to drive the car and I love driving my car…. Reached out to AWE on Friday and waiting back for their response… I know it’s out of their warranty now but this is ridiculous…. Same issue 4 years later and now I see its not only me…

So it’s not just stock AMG performance exhaust - h-pipe having issues, but even aftermarket exhausts like AWE that are having H-pipe valve issues….

I might just do what everyone else is and have my h-pipe valve welded closed…. Going to see what AWE can do…..

I would post a video with the car idling and another video under my car when we were assessing the h-pipe valve but I’m not sure how to post videos ?????

I’ll keep you guys posted….


Last edited by 1 SIC DR; Apr 16, 2023 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Forgot to add something
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Old Apr 27, 2023 | 09:01 PM
  #315  
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I’ve been reading through these pages and I’m having a similar problem, but mine seems to be more of an exhaust leak (ticking at 1500-3000rpm under load. The odd thing is, it only happens when the exhaust button is on (H-pipe flap closed). There is no noise when the exhaust button is off (H-pipe open). Does anyone have any suggestions? Perhaps I have an exhaust leak at the valve?

Thanks in advance
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Old Apr 28, 2023 | 07:17 AM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by n0mad17
I’ve been reading through these pages and I’m having a similar problem, but mine seems to be more of an exhaust leak (ticking at 1500-3000rpm under load. The odd thing is, it only happens when the exhaust button is on (H-pipe flap closed). There is no noise when the exhaust button is off (H-pipe open). Does anyone have any suggestions? Perhaps I have an exhaust leak at the valve?

Thanks in advance
If you can, jack the car up and get under there with a spray bottle (mix a few drops of detergent with water) and turn the car on. Start spraying around the exhaust pipes and watch for bubbles. If you see some bubbles then there's your leak. You can mend leaks easily with JB Weld for exhaust. You can use the paste or the putty just roll it up in your hand and press it into the leaking areas and let it dry out.

Or you can get an exhaust place to weld the leaks for you. Check the H-Pipe section in particular


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Old Sep 28, 2023 | 11:49 AM
  #317  
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I seem to be having this strange rattle now as well. It happens under mild load from 2.5 RPM to 3.5/4 RPM. 2019 C63s with secondary cat delete. What seems to be the final fix for this? Thanks for the help.
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Old Sep 30, 2023 | 05:49 AM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by DamianK
I seem to be having this strange rattle now as well. It happens under mild load from 2.5 RPM to 3.5/4 RPM. 2019 C63s with secondary cat delete. What seems to be the final fix for this? Thanks for the help.
Easiest thing to do is just lubricate it with copper grease from the tub every 6 months. I use a small syringe and pump it through the holes it 100% works I've been rattle free for over 12 months now
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Old Oct 3, 2023 | 09:47 PM
  #319  
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Got it thank you I will give that a try.
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Old Oct 3, 2023 | 09:55 PM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by DamianK
Got it thank you I will give that a try.
I guarantee you it will work. The copper grease becomes a cushion and stops the flap from "clanging" on the cradle. That's what causes the rattle in the first place.

Mercedes lubricate it but their lube always turns hard after a few 100 miles and the rattle comes back. The copper grease won't go hard.

Please let us know how it goes. You only need to use 3x 5ml syringes worth and that rattle will be solved.

I use this syringe and poke it through the cradle holes to pump the grease in

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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 04:29 AM
  #321  
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Hi, are the cradle holes the 4 holes on top of the valve?
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 04:54 AM
  #322  
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Originally Posted by mokawop
Hi, are the cradle holes the 4 holes on top of the valve?
Yes they are. This is where Mercedes insert the nozzle of their grease to lube the flap without having to remove the black flap motor.

If you're under the car this is what the H-pipe will look like:

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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 05:47 AM
  #323  
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Thank you!
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 06:36 AM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by mokawop
Thank you!
Can you let us know how it goes with the copper grease? Thanks
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 07:14 AM
  #325  
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Yea, Ill try it tomorrow
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