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My first misfire - 2019 AMG C63s Coupe

 
Old 06-15-2019, 08:34 PM
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2019 AMG C63S
My first misfire - 2019 AMG C63s Coupe

I was driving down the highway earlier this morning doing 65-75 mph until a Ferrari 458 (I think) sees me and starts down shifting to say Hi... and of course I had to say hi back so I downshift all the way down to 3rd gear while switching to S+ mode until I get a misfire and engine light come on (pretty embarrassing, isnít it?)
yes of course engine was in perfect temperature.
Car had ~ 2400 miles
Never been under any pressure/abusement/full potential drive due to my recent arm injury.
Iím a convert from BMW and had never had this issue before for a small thing like this. What are your expert thoughts here?
- had to stop and restart the car to get the car under normal operations and get rid of engine light btw.
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Old 06-15-2019, 08:39 PM
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Old 06-15-2019, 10:34 PM
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Let us know what the dealer says. I know seek3n here has also had misfire issues with his 19 cab.

At 4600mi, all Iíve encountered is an inoperative TPMS message that went away after dealer reset. No issues with wringing out my engine
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Old 06-16-2019, 04:35 AM
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No misfires here at a ~4100 miles. The only issue I'm having is an occasional false low oil warning. It started the day after I took delivery of the car, but then went away once I was driving the car hard on the German Autobahn, but it just came back the other day now that I'm back in Switzerland and have to drive at a slower pace. Oil is at max level, so I still think the oil sensor is faulty. Had it checked out at a dealer in Frankfurt, but they couldn't see any faults and it wasn't happening at that time. Something to look into once the car arrives in the US.
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Old 06-16-2019, 04:51 AM
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I m getting very nervous with so many issues with the facelifts.

i believe facelifts are the Best time to buy a car, because they can improve things. But so many issues, even if its only false alerts, its very annoying.

in a pretty expensive car.

Even more being a BMW guy, with thousands and thousands of miles on several models without any relevant issue in 14 years.
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:47 AM
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that's very odd indeed. to be honest unless they've changed bits in and around the engine, then I would understand it possibly happening but I'm very surprised. My pre facelift 2018 has never had any engine related issues. the engine does drink a bit of coolant which may need topping up with water around 6 or 7 k miles in but that's it. I do 90 percent of driving in sport plus and have 13k miles on the clock from new and never experienced any TPMS warning light or engine issues. revving high in lower gears is how I drive it every day.
please share what the dealer says / does to resolve this
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Old 06-16-2019, 03:10 PM
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Have there been misfire issues reported in the W205 C63 pre-facelift models? Do share how it goes with the diagnosis.
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Old 06-17-2019, 04:32 AM
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Please clarify how you concluded that you had a misfire?
im asking because you mention you turned the car off and on and that cleared the CEL.
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Old 06-17-2019, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by fjp63amg View Post
I m getting very nervous with so many issues with the facelifts.

i believe facelifts are the Best time to buy a car, because they can improve things. But so many issues, even if its only false alerts, its very annoying.

in a pretty expensive car.

Even more being a BMW guy, with thousands and thousands of miles on several models without any relevant issue in 14 years.
I don't think it's anything out of the ordinary. I concur with you that the facelifts are generally the best to buy. That's what I tend to do. I tend to buy the first year facelift, but being a first year there can still be some issues due to the changes they made to the cars. The engine is still the same, but the software has changed with the new transmission and the integration of the 9-stage traction control. A lot of the parts come from other suppliers and there can be bad batches and such. My previous car was a first year facelift Audi RS5, and I also had several issues that were taken care of during the warranty period. The worst issue I had was that the transmission oil filter seemed to be incorrectly mounted at the factory and got knocked loose sometime during the first 5000 miles. Stuff happens. I definitely think I got a bad oil level sensor. Yesterday it went all red error on me saying my oil level is low and to parked the car and turn off the engine. I did park, checked the oil after a while and all seemed fine. The error was gone after I started it again. It's rather annoying, though, I agree, and I'm taking it to a local dealership tomorrow morning to have them take a closer look and hopefully get the oil sensor replaced. I am dropping it off for shipment to the states on June 28, and if it doesn't get resolved before then I'll make the VPC aware of the issue and have them resolve it, or my dealership in the states.

Last edited by superswiss; 06-17-2019 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 06-17-2019, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cyberorth View Post
Please clarify how you concluded that you had a misfire?
im asking because you mention you turned the car off and on and that cleared the CEL.
When this happened, I noticed I lost most of the power and when I came to a complete stop, engine was rattling...
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Old 06-17-2019, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben Khoshabeh View Post
I was driving down the highway earlier this morning doing 65-75 mph until a Ferrari 458 (I think) sees me and starts down shifting to say Hi... and of course I had to say hi back so I downshift all the way down to 3rd gear while switching to S+ mode until I get a misfire and engine light come on (pretty embarrassing, isnít it?)
yes of course engine was in perfect temperature.
Car had ~ 2400 miles
Never been under any pressure/abusement/full potential drive due to my recent arm injury.
Iím a convert from BMW and had never had this issue before for a small thing like this. What are your expert thoughts here?
- had to stop and restart the car to get the car under normal operations and get rid of engine light btw.
Check the break-in procedures. I'm pretty sure we are not supposed to do hard downshifts at high RPMs/speeds, if I remember right. The exact statement is on the "break-in sticker" and should also be in the manual.
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MBzW205 View Post
Check the break-in procedures. I'm pretty sure we are not supposed to do hard downshifts at high RPMs/speeds, if I remember right. The exact statement is on the "break-in sticker" and should also be in the manual.
This was way past the break-in period as I had around 2400 miles on the car when this happened. 65mph for 3rd gear isn't any hard and should be totally piece of cake for this car; even if not safe, computer won't let you down-shift to damage the transmission anyway...
Going to make an appointment with my dealer and will keep you posted on the outcome.

P.S. I even have this on video which shows I'm doing 65mph when this happened.
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben Khoshabeh View Post
When this happened, I noticed I lost most of the power and when I came to a complete stop, engine was rattling...
how exactly is that indicative to a misfire?
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Old 06-17-2019, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by alexasa View Post
how exactly is that indicative to a misfire?
Power was lacking while throttle was over the normal consumption usage and engine was vibrating during the ride and even more noticeable when stopped. I think I know what a misfire exactly is
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben Khoshabeh View Post
When this happened, I noticed I lost most of the power and when I came to a complete stop, engine was rattling...
Was it a solid CEL or a flashing CEL?

The reason I ask is that my '15 C63S did that once maybe a year or two ago. I was pushing it a bit on the highway and the CEL started flashing. I lost a noticeable amount of power and the engine was shaking. Not horribly, but it was very noticeable. I pulled off the highway, turned it off, let it sit for a minute, and then started it back up. The CEL never went back on, and it drove home perfectly normal. I brought it in to he dealer, and they found a misfire code. I never got the actual code(s) from them, but they said it was definitely a misfire code.

Also, some of the earlier cars like mine had a recall to replace the ignition coil packs. This misfire happened after that recall was performed, so that wasn't the cause of the misfire.

Last edited by msd3075; 06-17-2019 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 06-17-2019, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by msd3075 View Post
Was it a solid CEL or a flashing CEL?

The reason I ask is that my '15 C63S did that once maybe a year or two ago. I was pushing it a bit on the highway and the CEL started flashing. I lost a noticeable amount of power and the engine was shaking. Not horribly, but it was very noticeable. I pulled off the highway, turned it off, let it sit for a minute, and then started it back up. The CEL never went back on, and it drove home perfectly normal. I brought it in to he dealer, and they found a misfire code. I never got the actual code(s) from them, but they said it was definitely a misfire code.

Also, some of the earlier cars like mine had a recall to replace the ignition coil packs. This misfire happened after that recall was performed, so that wasn't the cause of the misfire.
It was a solid CEL. I'm dropping off the car tomorrow to have it checked...
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Ben Khoshabeh View Post
It was a solid CEL. I'm dropping off the car tomorrow to have it checked...
Good luck.
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Old 06-17-2019, 11:23 PM
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Had the same issue within 2 days of taking delivery. Faulty sensor.
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Old 06-18-2019, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Ben Khoshabeh View Post
Power was lacking while throttle was over the normal consumption usage and engine was vibrating during the ride and even more noticeable when stopped. I think I know what a misfire exactly is
I donít believe that a cel caused by misfire clears on its own.
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Old 06-18-2019, 03:38 AM
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In my experience from other brands and what you can read, a misfire would trigger a flashing CEL. I've had misfire issues on my Audi RS5, which eventually got tracked down to a failing high pressure fuel pump. CEL always flashed and either went away or stayed lit for a while and then eventually cleared itself after a day or so of no misfires or a certain mileage. I always had to capture the codes right away, so they didn't clear on their own. Misfires are considered one of the more serious issues that trigger a flashing CEL while it's happening.

I just got back from the local dealership who looked into my low oil warnings and they couldn't see any faults and confirmed the oil level to be perfect. However, they did check their portal and apparently this appears to be a known issue and AMG is currently analyzing data. They may have a software bug in the ECU or problematic sensors. My ECU will get reprogrammed anyway at the VPC for the US octane levels, and from what we are hearing there is a software update being installed on cars arriving at the port currently after several cars seemed to get held up for a while. I'll have to bring the oil warnings to the VPC's attention and hopefully it gets resolved there, or I have to take it up with my US dealer. I guess there are a few teething problems at the moment.
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by superswiss View Post
In my experience from other brands and what you can read, a misfire would trigger a flashing CEL. I've had misfire issues on my Audi RS5, which eventually got tracked down to a failing high pressure fuel pump. CEL always flashed and either went away or stayed lit for a while and then eventually cleared itself after a day or so of no misfires or a certain mileage. I always had to capture the codes right away, so they didn't clear on their own. Misfires are considered one of the more serious issues that trigger a flashing CEL while it's happening.

I just got back from the local dealership who looked into my low oil warnings and they couldn't see any faults and confirmed the oil level to be perfect. However, they did check their portal and apparently this appears to be a known issue and AMG is currently analyzing data. They may have a software bug in the ECU or problematic sensors. My ECU will get reprogrammed anyway at the VPC for the US octane levels, and from what we are hearing there is a software update being installed on cars arriving at the port currently after several cars seemed to get held up for a while. I'll have to bring the oil warnings to the VPC's attention and hopefully it gets resolved there, or I have to take it up with my US dealer. I guess there are a few teething problems at the moment.

I've had a few misfire codes (P0301 and P0308) that caused a solid CEL. So it does happen on our cars.
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Old 06-18-2019, 02:26 PM
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I've had 2 misfires on my 2018 at around 1700 mi - flashing cel, pulled car over, shut it down, turned it on and it was gone - and then 2500 mi - flashing cel, but then stayed solid after turning car on/off. I knew exactly what it was and told my SA to have my coil packs replaced. Tech checked and confirmed 2 coil packs on 2 different banks were bad; replaced and hasn't come on. It's a known german issue and happened exactly on my B8.5 s4.
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Old 06-18-2019, 05:07 PM
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I had a misfire last week on 1 '18 C63s coupe. CEL and no boost. gettting it chec
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Old 06-18-2019, 05:55 PM
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This has nothing to do with misfire in the "engine at fault sense" - and when you see your dealer they will certainly check out everything for you - and they will be polite..

Although I am a bit unclear on EXACTLY what you were doing at this magic moment - since there at least three separate controls you could have been playing with... and I suggest you pull out your AMG Manual addendum or download the pdf copy from the Owner's Section of mbusa.com

1. If you used the left paddle to downshift ..

2. whether or not you had also 1st used "Manual" console button to go to Manual mode - and then turned to the left paddle - or if you started with use a 3-sec pull left paddle which will automatically activate manual model and take you to power gear

Activating this Manual Mode either way - with or without Manual Console Switch - Manual Mode requires Manual Upshift approaching Red Line - best done as you have reached the peak of the torque curve before redline - the tranny will not upshift on it's own - and staying in that gear going into redline will start shutting off cylinder to protect on over rev.

3. If you activated Manual - then went to Sport+ - then went to a kickdown - the transmission will still be in manual mode and not auto downshift or auto upshift react to kickdown since Manual has priority - and you will still need to manually upshift approaching redline or engine will start shutting down cylinders again to prevent over rev

You have a AWESOME AMG - learn how it thinks without the ego challenge of another car/driver
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Old 06-19-2019, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by fabbrisd1 View Post
This has nothing to do with misfire in the "engine at fault sense" - and when you see your dealer they will certainly check out everything for you - and they will be polite..

Although I am a bit unclear on EXACTLY what you were doing at this magic moment - since there at least three separate controls you could have been playing with... and I suggest you pull out your AMG Manual addendum or download the pdf copy from the Owner's Section of mbusa.com

1. If you used the left paddle to downshift ..

2. whether or not you had also 1st used "Manual" console button to go to Manual mode - and then turned to the left paddle - or if you started with use a 3-sec pull left paddle which will automatically activate manual model and take you to power gear

Activating this Manual Mode either way - with or without Manual Console Switch - Manual Mode requires Manual Upshift approaching Red Line - best done as you have reached the peak of the torque curve before redline - the tranny will not upshift on it's own - and staying in that gear going into redline will start shutting off cylinder to protect on over rev.

3. If you activated Manual - then went to Sport+ - then went to a kickdown - the transmission will still be in manual mode and not auto downshift or auto upshift react to kickdown since Manual has priority - and you will still need to manually upshift approaching redline or engine will start shutting down cylinders again to prevent over rev

You have a AWESOME AMG - learn how it thinks without the ego challenge of another car/driver
FYI...I switched to S+ and then attempted the Downshift and never reached the red-line.
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