betrezra

OK guys shopping for Drag Radials to fit my stock rear wheels:
Stock rear tires are 245/40/17, and I don't want to roll my fenders, I just want to put on a set of DR tires on my stock rear wheels and run.

Anyone know what is the largest drag radial that will fit my rims/wheel wells on my 2004 clk55?

I see BFG DR 225/45/17......
275/40/17 nitto
205/40/17 mt et streets
275 / 40/17 bfg dr
315/35/17 hoosier quick time dr

225/45/17 bfg dr.... these are prob the ones I want?....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-225...ht_2731wt_1167

loudandheard

Check out these threads for some info on drag radials:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ts-w-rims.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ls-racing.html

2MCHCAR

Fantastic!
Blower Noise!

betrezra

My 3rd brake light is cracked, I think I read somewhere this happens on the W209 after you begin to make some tq?

Any ideas to keep this from happening on my replacement 3rd brake light?


have to find a cheaper tail light....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Merce...#ht_618wt_1167

Louie D

91.00 on parts.com New

Louie

betrezra

Louie - Thx broh. Just ordered it. I'll see if there is any mods required..... that will make this one last... perhaps some clear rtv under the lense to absorb the shock of slamming the trunk?

loudandheard

My cousin has a clk320 and his completely fell apart. I had no idea they were that fragile, I just figured it was defective. Wish I could help with that one.

Moedy

I replaced the third brake light on both my clk320 and clk55. The older brake light plastic looks to have become broken from getting old, dry and brittle. The newer brake light seems to hold a lot better. Ive never had any issues after replacing both of them

betrezra

Just scanned codes after 650 miles.... and everything ready status... so off to emissions test tomorrow. Then I will call this project done.

Still too darn hot for any serious track time. Come on fall!

betrezra

OK the project is finished!
She's all inspected and legit.
Thx all for the ideas, and support through this crazy journey.
Time to put some miles on her as my daily driver.

Once weather cools down I'll post up some times et's/trap.

Until then take care.

ecampbell

betrezra, good job.

FWIW I have ordered a set of CCW's (16 for the rear and 18 for the front) rims and MT rubber). The 16 rears will hit much stronger than 17/18/19's and I can still get them over the BS rotors.

betrezra

EC - werd on the 16's. Good to know you can make them fit the BIG rotors on your BS.
I'm in shock that I can actually go to my garage..... and open the big doors... and drive my clk-k.... it has been a figment of my imagination for 9mo's... time to go drive it.. later.

betrezra

Refund recieved from MW of Houston. They made it right in the end. Thx MW o-H.

Update:
The new HP/TQ numbers nuked my stock mm's.... so new E55K Motor Mounts all around, and this thing runs/rides sooo much better.

I've got 1300 miles post blown, and it's a great daily driver. No issues in 105 deg F heat wave.

betrezra

Found a pic of my 1st car...... circa 1986.
Not much has changed regarding my hunger for HP/TQ.

MarcusF

Nice car. Is that a 69? The endura bumper on a first gen means its a 69, right?. Is that a 400 hood?

betrezra

Marcus - Yup 1969 Firebird with the endura bumper. No 400 or 400 hood... just the 350.
It was alot of car for a 16 yr old!

Kevwood

betezra - I finally got around to reading your whole thread here, great info after a hell of a journey! I am a few weeks away from doing the Kleemann SC and cams on my 500 (paid, just waiting for it to be shipped) and some of the things you've posted about I will be keeping an eye on. Thanks mate, really appreciate members that share up info like you have

betrezra

Hopefully it's of use to you guys.
I tried to stay out of the sordid details, but I bet there's some value for people to read how NOT to do something.

I've logged 1600 miles on her since this work was complete.
Idles awesome (slight rumble)
20mpg on the highway
no heatsoak in 105 deg F weather with stock klee h/e - pump
car does not jerk during shifts in any mode under any circumstance... don't let an installer tell you to expect otherwise.

I just had to have new mm's installed all 3 after installed these parts... the stock 23K miles mounts failed and created a serious creaking sound and made the car ride/handle like a lumber wagon. I had the W113 E55K mm's installed which should better handle the hp/tq.

Cheers.


And a quick recap to help sum up my mods and where I ended up:
Kleemann S/C (new style Eaton)
Custom smaller pulley (dont know the size, but after p/p heads I'm back to stock psi)
Ported / Polished heads / ex ports matched to klee header flanges
Kleemann mid-length headers
300 cel 2ndary cats
Stock catback / stock AMG muff.
PTE Cams / Ti retainers
PTE 180 deg Thermostat
Quaife LSD
Fuel System - kleemann set up with fpreg near fuel tank, stock injectors
Tune - Kleemann

Brakes - stock 2004 CLK55AMG
Suspension - stock 2004 CLK55AMG

The car just runs/drives better and better with more and more miles. If you don't have a lead foot you really can't tell there was any work done. I drove 32mi ea way to/from work.

betrezra

Looking at threads about stock W113 harm dampers / cranks pulleys I can't help but wonder if you guys would be interested in a good after market SFI harm Damper for N/A applications and/or blown applications.

In the blown domestic ford 302 motor world, it's a given that you install an SFI damper due to the loads of a blower pulley belt tension on the crank pulley.

I'm thinking two types would be popular:
1. stock diameter - for N/A applications (no overdrive of accy's).
2. XX% larger diameter - for s/c apps to over drive the blower and keep the stock blower snout pulley for better belt wrap.

I'm at 26K miles..... so I'll be keeping an eye on my damper for any wobble or rubber coming loose.

betrezra

The dreaded Crank Position Sensor crapped out today..... but lucky for me it cranked it's final crank in my driveway after a detail job...... and died in it's home in the garage

Autohaus to the rescue.... ordered 2.... 1 for the motor, and 1 for the trunk for when the next one dies.

Have a good weekend ALL>




CPS DIY tips:
1. MB quoted $200 for the Crank Pos Sensor
2. Ordered 2 spares from Autohaus for $48 each.
3. My local AutoZone had one in stock for $50. This one is on my car after about 1 hour (longer due to kleeman blower stuff).
4. I bought the E8 female torx socket for the bolt..... started to strip the tip of the head, so switched to my 8 pt craftsman 1/4" and hold it down firm and it came free.
5. I used elec tape on all the socket extensions to keep from dropping bits, and also elec tape the bolt onto the socket when re-install the bolt.
6. It's a little tricky lining up the bolt by feel.... so I used a small philips screw driver to line up the hole of the sensor to the hole in the block.
7. Be sure to prop the hood up to it's highest position (push in the red button on the drivers side strut to do this).
8. Place a towel of the drivers side fender.

I'm off for some mexican food.... will wrap up the install tomorrow in the wee morning when it's not 110 deg F in my shop!!!!!!!

It's hard to believe my entire amg motivation relies on a magnet to tell the ecu where the crank is....... or rather it's hard to believe this $70K car has a magnet sensor which dies at random causing a stranded situation ...... I miss points. But I'm old .

Kevwood

+1.

PTE

I replaced mine 2 years ago , It ohm out low as compared to the new one. I did the R&R from under the car . on jack stands Wrap my around the bell housing with my eyes closed It is still a pain in the A$$. Like you I put a new spare in the glove box. Cheers _PTEngineering

betrezra

PTE - my next crank pos sensor will go in with the reach-around-method from under as well.
Looks to be better access from down there.. I was thinking to myself as I was cutting up my hands on the hose clamps through the top!!!!! 99ARGH99!!!

Runs like a top today. But I have to admit I'm at 1 break-down per week at this rate..... so hopefully I'm done with breakdowns on this old lady.
* week 1 - leaking flange on fuel tank.
* week 2 - failed motor mounts
* week 3 - cps
I'm due for some troublefree mileage.>>>>>






+++++

was thinking about the crank pos sensor last night before falling asleep... (yeah I do that)..... and I recall the mustang cobra 4.6 liter has a crank pos sensor on the harm damper on the front of the car.... with the cps on the front of the engine with easy access.
Just curious how hard would it be to retrofit your cps to the front of the engine in a cooler more accessible place, and place the litte crank sensor on the harm damper and rebalance the damper?
I prob don't have the gumption to do this... but in theory is this workable??????? tia.

betrezra

A little go-pro camera fun.
http://youtu.be/do6raXIKd7E


My old blown mustang... interesting to a/b the two cars... same films spots..
http://youtu.be/qlBGjdq1W-M

Here's another old mustang coupe I used to own, coupe w/powerdyne blower, AOD automatic w/3000stall.
Easy to drive an auto.
http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x...90aodcoupe.mp4

1992 Mustang 5.0
Motor: Stock 120K Mile 5.0Liter 9.5:1 CR
Tune: My home tune... old school MSD BTM / Adj Fuel Press Reg / FMU
Cam: Stock FORD
Blower: Vortech S-Trim 12psi
Heads: AFR 185 AL
Intake: TFS
RWHP/TQ: 400HP / 400 TQ
WGT: 3150lb
1/4 mile: 12.5 @ 118 street tires
MPG: 24mpg @ 65mph

Mustang 1/4 mile vid..... hard to hook-up on street tires w/stick.
http://s186.photobucket.com/albums/x...t=P3120004.mp4


2004 CLK55
Motor: Stock 30K Mile 5.5Liter 11.1:1 CR
Tune: Kleemann Custom
Cams: PTE
Blower: Kleemann Eaton 7psi
Heads: P/P stock 3 valve AMG
Intake: Kleemann
RWHP/TQ: 471 / 482
WGT: 3600lb
1/4 mile: ???? TBD
MPG: 23mpg @ 70mph

AMGY

Looks fun to drive