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So in my overhaul of the front end of my car upon removal of the front control arm the stock bolt is solid bolt with flat washers. The replacement I got the arm is the same but the bolt has slots cut in it length wise and one perpendicular by the head, and the washers have knobs on them. I assume on some vehicles this is for alignment.
Question is there any issues with using these new bolts (and old washers), they are same dimensionally with only difference is the slots.
Not sure yet. Gotta look that up if I can. Just getting everything out together (swapped out) right now when I can find time.
It doesnt look like mine has the ability to adjust toe or atleast the original doesnt. Mine is a 4matic not sure if that makes a difference. The outer tie rod is adjustable. I saw on some E350 videos that there fwd control arms seem to be adjustable but mine not so much.
Yes the replacement i got looks like the pink one, the original i took off looks like the other set. Was looking the bolts are the same except the notches, not sure if can use them but with the original washers. Probably should order correct ones.
The new control arms looked the same as ones i took off. Dont think there is any difference there.
New arms must use STANDARD bolt set, otherwise the CAMBER or CASTER will not be as "zero" as MB designed it to be.
I use that Correction Bolt because I stress my arm a bit at the race track ( fun drive ).
I learnt of the correction bolts use, the hardway. MB WIS was not too clear
It started after the 20 ish laps at track , my CASTER then went bad, my front stabilizder link torn its boot for Left Side at the MacPhearson strut side.
Front tires bald-ded to the white cord, rear tires got so rough it made crazy noise. So all 4 tires replaced.
.
Took me 5 alignments to get it right, I meant I tried using the correction bolts at all 4 arms, 2 of Caster and 2 of Camber and finally I got it right ...the correction bolts needed to be at the CAMBER arms.
Weird, correcting a CASTER but the correction bolts needed to be at the CAMBER arm. Well, Camber and Caster are like Siamese twins, one effect the other.
But this Caster and Camber adventure is worth it for my own learning. MB WIS is only accurate for 1 side of the suspension and not the opposite side.
Full story is here..... https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...adventure.html
When you tighten the bolts, you must make sure the suspension arms are at the normal car RIDE HEIGHT . Otherwise you arm bushing will be short lived.
Depending on your garage equipment, please be careful as you need to load the front suspension system approx 500kg of force to make it ride height when and if your wheels are floating in the air.
I almost got my face whacked by my own jack "kicked-out" by suspension force....when trying to get the suspension to be at ride height, based on my limited experience & working gear/tool at that time in 2020.
Lucky I got this DIY wheel "support jacks" 4 units....for normal ride height.
Good luck......
Last edited by S-Prihadi; Apr 17, 2024 at 01:40 AM.
Good info, wasnt sure how those adjustments were made with the control arms bushing having a straight shot thru.
Do have a question, if ya use the standard washers does the camber bolt have any effect on alignment? Having a hard time finding the standard bolts here in US so far. Prefer not to use the old ones.
OK so read thru about 6 different threads and last one was Mud's thread as he had a 4matic so most similar.
From my new understanding these adjustment bolts only have two settings via the washer and bolt alignment correct? Since there are two tabs on the frame portion that the washers can sinc into this allows either left or right fixed distance. Unfortunately didnt get a alignment before doing this work and considering my tires wear pretty even that I should really be going with the standard setup.
My other assumption is cant use the slotted bolt with the regular washers because the slot would allow the bolt to potentially move small amount?
Yes today's models OEM / FACTORY - There is No adjustment. For Front Camber or Caster and No Rear Camber allowing to adjust tire contact angles, spread load more evenly.
All to do with cost cutting and ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines !
Now just one set Camber position - to suit showroom height. Onus now back on owners to fund costly premature tire replacement.
Yet Camber is essential to resolve excess edge tire wear experienced in day to day commuting with varying height or load conditions. High cambered roads with excess passenger side edge wear. Fitting wide profile tires. Having ongoing adjustment for curb knocks !
Or TRACK DAYS - Dialing in Extra Neg. Camber to reduce understeer allowing to hit those corner apexes every time and go deeper into the corners with increased traction and braking response. In the pursuit of front row of the grid lap times.
Yes you can purchase “offset correction bolts” - but inaccurate providing a miniscule 0.3 of one degree (⅛”) Camber change !
While K-MAC kits it is “SERIOUS ADJUSTMENT” (to Fix It Right The 1st. Time) and precise single wrench / accurately under load direct on alignment rack. “Up to 2 degrees” - extra Positive or Negative plus at same time replacing the 4 main highest wearing bushings.
The K-MAC Front thrust arm bushes (Caster adjustable) replace the OEM soft rubber oil filled bushes with “Mono ball / Self aligning”. Allowing arms to travel through their required suspension arcs without binding. SIGNIFICANTLY IMPROVING BRAKE AND STEERING RESPONSE !
SEE SPOILER
Spoiler
FRONT SUSPENSION
#502916K $480 (BOTH SIDES) CAMBER & CASTER
#502916-1i $345 (BOTH SIDES) CAMBER ONLY
(Less cost then 1 Hi-Performance tire)
NOTE: ALL K-MAC FRONT & REAR KITS SPECIALLY DESIGNED TO BE “BOLT-ON” - NO SPECIAL TOOLS OR TIME CONSUMING NEED FOR ARM REMOVAL AND USE OF BENCH PRESS !
ALSO MANUFACTURED:
REAR UPRATED BUSHINGS FOR THE ‘6’ MULTI LINK ARMS #502628K $480
Less twitch / flex loss of rear end traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtaking.
DHL EXPRESS DELIVERY WORLDWIDE $40 one kit, $20 each extra.
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
You must get standard bolt, because your arms will be new and we must assume your chassis and front subframe is good.
Even if say you do not use the Correction Washer but the BOLT only, it will "drift" overtime due to it having the valley B / slot.
.See how the bushing hole is unique shaped and not simple round.
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Quint wrote :
From my new understanding these adjustment bolts only have two settings via the washer and bolt alignment correct? Since there are two tabs on the frame portion that the washers can sinc into this allows either left or right fixed distance. Unfortunately didnt get a alignment before doing this work and considering my tires wear pretty even that I should really be going with the standard setup.
My other assumption is cant use the slotted bolt with the regular washers because the slot would allow the bolt to potentially move small amount? YES
You are correct, the MB Correction Bolt Kit is a West or East correction only and a fixed degree. But it is a good correction value, as long as your arm bushing's is still decent.
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You call your arm FRONT CONTROL arm.
You meant the CASTER arm right ? The Item B #200.
Sorry mine is not 4 Matic but the arms function will be the same.
A or 1 or item 300 = Cross Strut / Cross Member. I also call it Camber Arm, because that is what WIS describe it when mentioning Camber values.
If indeed your bushing hole is simple round like that, you can use the Correction Bolt, as it will not effect anything, .... probably the ring/washer to use is standard version.
But I do not know your subframe bolt-hole shape for the bolt.
The one in blue below :
Ha ha ha, now I realized how the EPC can screw us.
You can not choose #150 set, that is Correction Bolt Kit Only as a set.
You mush choose one by one the STANDARD bolt and washers and NUT, I marked red.
Yes thanks Prihadi, mine is the one with the round bushing hole and the dust covers. I gotta look again but I believe the frame mount is the same as yours with the tabs (except my frame portion is black I believe). Makes sense though as they probably punch the same hole in all of them then use whatever for different models.
As far as nomenclature places tend to call it either "upper control arm" or "forward control arm" part #100 on diagram above. On mine they are oriented forward and aft for the two control arms, the tie rod (inner outer) two piece is in the center lower, sway bar links fwd upper above.
More joy, the regular non adjustable bolt or bolt sets seem to be only available from Germany or other places close by. The adjustable sets are available everywhere it seems.
More joy, the regular non adjustable bolt or bolt sets seem to be only available from Germany or other places close by. The adjustable sets are available everywhere it seems.
I found this kit and looks like it is the bolt, nut and spacers in the non-adjustable/slotted version.
I have no trouble getting parts at my local MB parts dept and the prices are normal. But I have seen people quoted rip off prices from there local MB dealer, which I would seriously question them on why they are marking up prices so much. Recently picked up a cv axle boot with the clamps and circlip for $16 and everything was in stock.
For things like nuts, bolts, fasteners and other small stuff I find the MB dealer reasonable if not the best place sometimes. If its not in stock it only takes a day or two to get it in. And dont have to pay shipping costs.
The closest MB dealer near me doesnt have an online parts dept so I go on MB of Boston, find what I want, print out the page to bring with me and I have always gotten the parts for the listed price. https://mbparts.mbusa.com/oem-parts/...UtOTkwLTI0LTUw
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