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I thinking I must have early onset or something but I can't find the upper mounts...
Can somebody give me some detailed guidance? The pictures in the active threads don't offer ME enough context.
The 2 shock bolts are definitely there! I replaced my leaky rear shocks in the past 6 months.
1) I removed the rear armrests very carefully, but still managed to break some of the tabs. I used clear silicon when reattaching and ended up without any rattles. I also aired out the car for a day to get that chemical odor out.
2) When I went inside the car to remove the top 2 shock bolts, remember to remove your watch, rings, etc. It is really tight in there. The top 2 shock bolts turn out to be more forward of where I thought they would be? Speaking for myself, I thought that they would be more centered on the hump, but they are more forward. So heads-up.
3) Purchase new locking nuts and buy some extras in case that you drop some in there as I did!
4) If you are working on the car with the wheels off the ground, recheck/retorque those 2 shock bolts with the car/wheels on the ground. I also drove the car around for a day, and re-checked the torque/tightness on those shock bolts before you re-attaching the arm rests.
Official Mercedes procedures—-WIS— specify removal of the entire interior side panel. You would sue your dealer or independent mechanic if they sliced it apart and glued it back together.
Of course, there are no “bolts” involved at the top mounting. Shocks have a threaded rod there and the unit is fastened with a nut.
FYI the nuts are special squashed lock nuts and Mercedes specifies they be replaced with new ones.
In the USA, manufacturers are legally required to provide service information to everyone, not just their dealers. You can subscribe to WIS at startekinfo,com. Independent shops pay Mercedes $20k per year to subscribe. You can subscribe for 24 hours for something like $100.
The special locking nuts are probably indicated because MB so cleverly hid the nuts inside the armrest. Whenever MB demands something, ask whether there is some magic pixie dust in the MB engineering, or they were just being persnickety.
Having removed my 3rd row seats, I am debating what to do with the shock nut covers (aka armrests). Probably just set them in place.
The special locking nuts are probably indicated because MB so cleverly hid the nuts inside the armrest. Whenever MB demands something, ask whether there is some magic pixie dust in the MB engineering, or they were just being persnickety.
A little reading from which you can learn about reusing lock nuts …
Firemist O5 CLK55 Cab Silver 05 CLK55 Coupe Tanzanite 06 CLK500 Coupe
I went with the hybrid approach-both arm rest covers and passenger panel.
Left the seat belt retaining bolt in and pushed the panel out enough to get a pretty vertical shot.
Foam body liner looking like fender made them initially hard to find.
The nuts I replaced (three handed job) were the nylocks included with the $155 shocks I got from Amazo#.
I used a floor jack and a quality wrench to generate the massive torque it took to break the lower nuts.
I don't understand why you removed the "passenger panel" as well as the armrests. It seems like you do one or the other.
The nuts look like they are pretty easy to access once you have the armrests off.
A decent impact wrench is a must-have in my opinion. I got this one XWT04Z for $150 from Amazon Warehouse. It was new. They claim 325 ft-lbs. 1/2" breaker bars aren't rated for all that much more. I need to do my shocks so I am looking forward to putting this thing to use.
Firemist O5 CLK55 Cab Silver 05 CLK55 Coupe Tanzanite 06 CLK500 Coupe
I merely displaced the passenger panel as the seat belt retaining bolt was enough to give up the idea which will ultimately yield better access and not damage the rear armrests.
Update us all on your success with that impact wrench on the lowers.
Get the Milwaukee M18 2767-20. It's rated at 1,400 lb/ft of torque. I love mine. I typically only go to the second setting if the first one doesn't bust the nuts/bolts free. You know it's legit when they use the tool on heavy equipment like dozers and excavators. It may be overkill but it's never let me down.
Get the Milwaukee M18 2767-20. It's rated at 1,400 lb/ft of torque. I love mine. I typically only go to the second setting if the first one doesn't bust the nuts/bolts free. You know it's legit when they use the tool on heavy equipment like dozers and excavators. It may be overkill but it's never let me down.
It is mind boggling battery powered stuff can deliver that much torque. I've got a 1/2' air powered IR that was considered high end when I got it 25 years ago, and I think it's only good for 600 ft/lbs.
It is mind boggling battery powered stuff can deliver that much torque. I've got a 1/2' air powered IR that was considered high end when I got it 25 years ago, and I think it's only good for 600 ft/lbs.
Check out Torque Test Channel on YT.
Air is not necessarily higher power than electric. Its benefits come in lighter weight and higher continuous power, i.e. higher free speed.
But your air compressor has to deliver the continuous power. I demolished a chimney with a little Campbell Hausfeld air chisel, connected to a nice Makita oil type compressor. I was impressed; it was able to maintain 40 psi continuous - but of course that pressure made it ineffectual at any of the harder mortar. An electric hammer would have been absolute murder on the shoulders.
It is mind boggling battery powered stuff can deliver that much torque. I've got a 1/2' air powered IR that was considered high end when I got it 25 years ago, and I think it's only good for 600 ft/lbs.
It is crazy. I have some old school impact tools and they don't hold a candle to the Milwaukee battery powered unit.
10-27-2022, 04:49 PM
