2018 GLC300 Battery Registration?

Kidding aside, I don't recall any type of programming for a Mercedes battery being necessary -- just replace with comparable battery, using all of the proper safety protocols and leave the registration to the blue/white team drivers...
That said, my experience with Mercedes is that most have too little space under the hood for my hands, so wear gloves to save yourself from scrapes, and most importantly, have a cold one nearby to open up AFTER the job is done.
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Last edited by spinalator; Feb 3, 2021 at 09:38 AM.
I just replaced Optima yellow top DH6 CCA 800A in the Advance Auto Parts to my 2016 GLC300, they use backup battery to plug in the ODB port to keep memory, battery $315 and received 20% off only $250. It took only 10 minutes to replace it very easy. Labor is free no charge.
BTW The Auto Start/Stop was not working after 2nd years I bought the GLC and went back to dealer many times and a lot of dealer excuses
and never fixed and I just leave the problem there till last week I replaced the battery and Auto Start/Stop back to normal. The Mercedes OEM battery quality is very bad, I have 3 friend bought GLC after me, 2 2017 and 1 2018 all 3 got the battery light on this winter. Very bad quality never buy OEM Mercedes Battery. At least Optima battery comes with 3 years warranty.Optima Yellow Top Deep Cycle Battery, Group Size H6, 800 CCA, 925 CA, 140 RC Link
I just replaced Optima yellow top DH6 CCA 800A in the Advance Auto Parts to my 2016 GLC300, they use backup battery to plug in the ODB port to keep memory, battery $315 and received 20% off only $250. It took only 10 minutes to replace it very easy. Labor is free no charge.
BTW The Auto Start/Stop was not working after 2nd years I bought the GLC and went back to dealer many times and a lot of dealer excuses
and never fixed and I just leave the problem there till last week I replaced the battery and Auto Start/Stop back to normal. The Mercedes OEM battery quality is very bad, I have 3 friend bought GLC after me, 2 2017 and 1 2018 all 3 got the battery light on this winter. Very bad quality never buy OEM Mercedes Battery. At least Optima battery comes with 3 years warranty.Optima Yellow Top Deep Cycle Battery, Group Size H6, 800 CCA, 925 CA, 140 RC Link
Cost was 450$ total.
GLC battery right up from with easy access, cost should be the same or less, as less labor and smaller battery.
How is your 2018 out of warranty already?
How is your 2018 out of warranty already?




Kidding aside, I don't recall any type of programming for a Mercedes battery being necessary -- just replace with comparable battery, using all of the proper safety protocols and leave the registration to the blue/white team drivers...
That said, my experience with Mercedes is that most have too little space under the hood for my hands, so wear gloves to save yourself from scrapes, and most importantly, have a cold one nearby to open up AFTER the job is done.




The ECU software tries to learn your MAIN battery to charge it well... just like ECU does for engine and TCM for gearbox.
Energy Mgt is done by sensors and computers hosted throughout the car from from ECU to Rear-SAM.
The one thing you can do is unplug the sensor control wire from the Battery (-) post. It will cause the engine computer to relearn its battery condition with more charging efforts in the 14.x ballpark instead of 12.6v float voltage. You can do that at anytime with both [Engine + KEY]= OFF, old or new battery.
Benz modern multi-stage dual battery charging is an amazing source of repeat service. Every Benz driver is bound to learn about it one way or another. The best thing you can do for your batteries is to float them with a CTEK or equivalent as often as practical... like once or twice a month. This easily helps lower 80Amp charge currents that end up damaging alternator, batteries, PreFuse and both SAM's... none of which come cheap with diagnostic fees: $2k.
This version is my no-brainer DIY to address this sticky mess.

The ECU software tries to learn your MAIN battery to charge it well... just like ECU does for engine and TCM for gearbox.
Energy Mgt is done by sensors and computers hosted throughout the car from from ECU to Rear-SAM.
The one thing you can do is unplug the sensor control wire from the Battery (-) post. It will cause the engine computer to relearn its battery condition with more charging efforts in the 14.x ballpark instead of 12.6v float voltage. You can do that at anytime with both [Engine + KEY]= OFF, old or new battery.
Benz modern multi-stage dual battery charging is an amazing source of repeat service. Every Benz driver is bound to learn about it one way or another. The best thing you can do for your batteries is to float them with a CTEK or equivalent as often as practical... like once or twice a month. This easily helps lower 80Amp charge currents that end up damaging alternator, batteries, PreFuse and both SAM's... none of which come cheap with diagnostic fees: $2k.
This version is my no-brainer DIY to address this sticky mess.

Reading them together, I think registration *is* required - unless someone can point to specific *documents* stating otherwise. Everything else is just hearsay and opinions.
Anybody know of any DYI-level OBDII device capable of updating SAM? That would be very helpful for this community to know.



