Hey gang, have my son's ML350 2005 we are trying to keep runnin. 2 questions for you please?
1) Is it possible to reset the maintenance alarm, since we are now -16 days from service interval, with a regular ODB scanning tool? I read the manual and the procedure to de-activate it seems to say you can do that up to the service time, but neg days don't reset by pushing the button on the speedo (right? I couldn't completely understand the manual).

2) We bought this auto used... very, very used. The previous owners don't look like they used the wiper spray much, and I replaced both pumps. Swear it then sprayed fine for a couple of weeks, but we don't use wipers much in Phx - and of course when I need'm a couple months later, no fluid. Pumps still furiously try, there's fluid in the tank, but when I disconnect hose from pump and lower it to try and drain, looks like there's a bunch of old fluid coagulated near the nozzles.

Both front and rear do not spray, even tho both pumps try.

I can't figure out quickly how to get to the other end of the hoses by the nozzles, so I can reverse spray them with an air compressor, can you guys give advice? I'd rather not tear apart the back liftgate or the plastic shroud by the wipers until I know what I'm doing, and can't find any other threads that describe the process - anyone done this before?

Thanks much in advance, you've helped me solve several other problems on this rig ourselves, hope I can do this one!

 

kanek,

some reading for you. try these options.


https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...ine-light.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...r-problem.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...-spraying.html

 

Thanks Khomer, Read thru first link, I had tried those steps from the user manual, but it didn’t reset. What jumped out at me is the casual post saying ‘works if all your doors are closed’. I will try that in the morn and report back!

The second and third I have read before, but reading again I guess I’m going to be finding and clearing check valves! What I can’t figure out yet is how to remove the plastic cowling under the wipers, cannot get to the nozzle end of he hose since it goes under this cowling. did do a couple forum searches but found nothing just yet. Any help on that?

 

Attached.
This should assist.
One initial issue you should be aware of at the onset is the removal of the wiper blades. The nut may be seized/fused on the wiper bolts (due to the difference of metals). You'll most likely need some penetrant sprayed into the joint - let it soak before attempting to loosen. And probably a hammer and chisel to "lightly" tap on the nut to break free the fused nut/bolt. Be patient on this.
The other issue is to make a note of where the clips holding the cowl piece are located (take plenty of photos) and HOW they clip into the windshield.
Raise the hood straight up when you do this for accessibility.
Lastly, you will need to finesse the one-piece cowel, if req'd, to move it out of the way to do your chores.

 

Khomer, i am again so very thankful of your and these forums ability and will to help us noobs, thank you so much!

Topic 1) Sure enough, having all 4 doors closed and following the reset procedure worked like a champ, maintenance interval reset. Turn key to 2, double press left dash button, see the warning, go to 0 press and hold button, key back to 2 and keep holding button until the bell sounds. done deal, sweeeet! closing all doors was not in the manual, only that casual tip in the thread i nearly missed.

Topic 2) Had a trip to Winslow Az in the snow yesterday, and just enough time to try the front hoses. woulda taken hours trying to figure out how to get that done. Took the nuts off the wipers, but could not get the wipers themselves off despite penetrating oil soak everywhere i could spray on them, not wd40 but real penetrating oil. tapped with both rubber mallet and hard plastic screwdriver, no deal. So took off the rubber firewall section from the barbed metal clips and got just enough space to wiggle the hose off the first nozzle. Back sprayed hose to clear a lot of gunk, found that back valve and trying to figure iut how to wiggle it apart, but didnt want to break it, so simply back cleared it as best i could, sprayed some contact cleaner in there and verified it allowed still limited flow from the pump. Attached it back to nozzle, and got enough spray to keep window clean for this trip, definitely needed that!

So still left to do: buy a new front washer valve if i can find one, or figure out how to fully clear the existing one (tiny square black plastic box an inch from first nozzle, which ideally will be done after i figure out how to unstick wiper arms from their post. Then figure out how to remove driver door cowling and get at the rear washer valve to clear that, and figure out how to get to hose from rear nozzle to valve, if i need to clear that also.

Along the way, learned not to use rainx fluid, and how to put the hood into service mode straight up (take off piston from one mount point and attach to the other knob). Thrilled with progress so far, Thank You Khomer!!

 

The wiper blade arm is definitely fused - just keep using penetrating spray on it and let it soak - if you can, rig up a small plastic or whatever, around the nut where it's fused and let that sucker soak/bath it the penetrant overnight. I recall that's what it did just on the DS nut to remove so I could get at cleaning out the cowl drain holes on both sides down below. A rubber mallet may not work - you need to shock the fusion a part.

Rear hatch door tailgate panel removal ?

https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...rim-hatch.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...-tailgate.html

 

Appreciate that info, khomer - have the wiper arms soaking in penetrating oil with some plumbers putty, and started tapping on them with hard plastic screwdriver handles - we'll see if they free up.

Starting to think I may have to live without rear wiper spray, I took a look at removing the c-pillar panel, (I'm guessing it's on the driver's side from where the hose routes?) but took 4 screws off so far and can't get it to loosen up, can't find pics of anyone doing this task yet. Looks like that's the only way to get to the filter for the rear.

I got a bit of a late start of it today and ran out of daylight, will look more later this week and report back.

 

These should help - my bad - World mechanics videos are well done for any DIY to understand.

 

Ahh, thank you so much those will definitely help when I get to the rear panel. I was going to go after the little filter under the c-pillar cover in this section first, as that's what was clogged on the fronts:
https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...-spraying.html

But so far, haven't found any good vids on how to remove that c-pillar cover yet, I'll comb thru the rest of the World Mechanics vids, I LOVE those - they've showed me how to replace all the light bulbs, how to find the antenna that I had to rebuild with JB Weld cuz the top had broken off, how to fix the drainage of the sunroof, and about a million other little things we've fixed on this bad boy so far. Even tho it had all the problems listed in the sticky of this forum, once I've gotten them fixed or dealt with, it's been a nice little scout/goat for when I run thru snow and ice in Arizona.

Thx for all the assistance, it has been very, very helpful!

 

attached.
Happy New Year, kanek.

 

A very late thank you so much, khomer for your help! I admit I ran out of time, and had to take our ml350 to the mechanic anyway, so asked him to look, he was able to find the filter piece clogged, I think he said on the passenger c pillar, after a hassle search. But he replaced it for $18 since I had other work done and keep him happy. Works like a champ again, this car is a real tank once you get all the things fixed I have, virtually everything in the faq that can go wrong be either fixed myself or had him fix, or just live with it.

appreciate very much all he assistance from this forum!