How many of you M275s running on original coilpacks?
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How many of you M275s running on original coilpacks?
Posted this on the CL65/SL65 sub-forum but thought more technical answers would be found here so cross-posting here:
So coilpacks are considered a maintenance item on the M275s but how many of you are still running your original coilpacks?
What are you driving habits, oil change intervals, and anything else you can think of that contributes to the longevity of your coilpacks.
So coilpacks are considered a maintenance item on the M275s but how many of you are still running your original coilpacks?
What are you driving habits, oil change intervals, and anything else you can think of that contributes to the longevity of your coilpacks.
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 84
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S65 GL320CDI GLS63 80 Series Landcruiser
Posted this on the CL65/SL65 sub-forum but thought more technical answers would be found here so cross-posting here:
So coilpacks are considered a maintenance item on the M275s but how many of you are still running your original coilpacks?
What are you driving habits, oil change intervals, and anything else you can think of that contributes to the longevity of your coilpacks.
So coilpacks are considered a maintenance item on the M275s but how many of you are still running your original coilpacks?
What are you driving habits, oil change intervals, and anything else you can think of that contributes to the longevity of your coilpacks.
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 84
Likes: 18
S65 GL320CDI GLS63 80 Series Landcruiser
Forgot - Also did motor mounts at 65K including transmission mount and unlike all the horror stories from everyone who doesn't really know what they're talking about, only paid $1,300 for the job at the local dealer all in.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 314
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From: Malibu, Ca
SL65, 427 COBRA (CSX-3127)73 911S, 246GTS (DINO SPYDER), CORNICHE,1962 PORSCHE TWIN GRILLE ROADSTER+
UNderdog... $1,300 for S65 mounts is too much...
MERCEDES S65 mounts are very easy compared to.... Pay attention.... "SL"65 mounts.
The SL65 engine compartment has much less room and requires removing the engine or dropping the subframe to get to the mounts.
The SL65 engine compartment has much less room and requires removing the engine or dropping the subframe to get to the mounts.
Last edited by EXECMALIBU; Jan 20, 2015 at 06:46 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Welwyn, Herts, UK
2006 S600
Hard to imagine having less space around the engine than in the S65.
One of the differences with the SL65 is that the engine is mounted further back.
In the S & CL, the engine mounts are just in front of the steering rack, but in the SL they're just behind.
Don't know if that makes much difference - its probably down to which type of mounts are fitted: up-facing or down-facing bolts.
Nick
One of the differences with the SL65 is that the engine is mounted further back.
In the S & CL, the engine mounts are just in front of the steering rack, but in the SL they're just behind.
Don't know if that makes much difference - its probably down to which type of mounts are fitted: up-facing or down-facing bolts.
Nick
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 314
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From: Malibu, Ca
SL65, 427 COBRA (CSX-3127)73 911S, 246GTS (DINO SPYDER), CORNICHE,1962 PORSCHE TWIN GRILLE ROADSTER+
Nick The engine is back further and the Turbos are blocking access!
Do your homework on the SL600/65. Read what everyone has posted including MBZ technical notes. I believe a few people have tried other methods without success???
MB Experts have repeatedly stated that in the R230 SL600/65 there is absolutely NO way to access and remove the top bolts on the Engine Mounts without making room.
The Turbos are blocking the access. There are apparently ONLY two ways to replace the engine mounts in the SL600/SL65.
1. Lift the engine up enough (8-10 inches) to have access to the bolts on the engine mounts. This requires removing and disconnecting virtually everything attached to the engine (electrical,cooling,vacuum etc) 12-15 hours for experienced MB techs with tools. Plus plan on breaking some of the dried out plastic fittings, hoses etc. that will need to be replaced.
2. Remove the the complete lower Sub-Frame while supporting the weight of the engine from above. Then remove the mounts from the bottom. They say this takes a little bit less time but because of the size and extreme weight of the Sub-Frame with suspension parts it is more difficult. Two people are required to support and lower/lift the parts.
If I have bad info and someone has figured out a better solution let me know??
MB Experts have repeatedly stated that in the R230 SL600/65 there is absolutely NO way to access and remove the top bolts on the Engine Mounts without making room.
The Turbos are blocking the access. There are apparently ONLY two ways to replace the engine mounts in the SL600/SL65.
1. Lift the engine up enough (8-10 inches) to have access to the bolts on the engine mounts. This requires removing and disconnecting virtually everything attached to the engine (electrical,cooling,vacuum etc) 12-15 hours for experienced MB techs with tools. Plus plan on breaking some of the dried out plastic fittings, hoses etc. that will need to be replaced.
2. Remove the the complete lower Sub-Frame while supporting the weight of the engine from above. Then remove the mounts from the bottom. They say this takes a little bit less time but because of the size and extreme weight of the Sub-Frame with suspension parts it is more difficult. Two people are required to support and lower/lift the parts.
If I have bad info and someone has figured out a better solution let me know??
Last edited by EXECMALIBU; Jan 23, 2015 at 07:03 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 343
From: Welwyn, Herts, UK
2006 S600
2. Remove the the complete lower Sub-Frame while supporting the weight of the engine from above. Then remove the mounts from the bottom. They say this takes a little bit less time but because of the size and extreme weight of the Sub-Frame with suspension parts it is more difficult. Two people are required to support and lower/lift the parts.
The subframe is actually very light - lighter than a single front brake rotor.
Removing the subframe makes access very much better, but its still a difficult job. The upper forward motor mount arm bolts are difficult to access.
Nick
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Newbie
Joined: Jan 2015
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From: Dallas, TX
2006 S65 AMG, 2011 Range Rover SC, 2003 F250 Superduty
Coil Packs died at 80k
My 06' S65 original packs died at 80k. No warning just check engine light on and then limp mode. Replaced with new 680/780 packs.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 80
From: Anchorage
05 CL65
My car had the right coil pack replaced before I bought it at 41,000 miles. I replaced the left 6 months after adding a tune. It was working fine, but I was taking it to the drag strip for the first time and didn't want to wait and see if it would fail there so I replaced it and put in new plugs with around 45,000 miles on it. Don't know how the previous owner drove the car. Most of the miles I put on the one original coil pack were over winter, daily driver, snow, sub zero temps, Alaska.
Last edited by Dr Matt; Jan 28, 2016 at 10:20 PM.
Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 136
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2015 S600, 2014 E550 4-Matic
I recently picked up an 03' S600 that appears to have had both original coil packs and plugs. The coil packs were the old part numbers and the spark plugs were all original. The service records also didn't have coil packs listed.
At 96K miles I lost cylinder #11 on the driver's coil pack. I replaced both individual coils on that cylinder, along with the plugs, then drove the car another 1,000 miles and lost ignition on all left bank cylinders. I then installed a brand new left side coil pack.
From what I can tell, I'm at 97K miles on the original right side coil pack. I've thought about changing it, but I might as well see how much longer it will hold together. Maybe the failure rate isn't actually 100%?
At 96K miles I lost cylinder #11 on the driver's coil pack. I replaced both individual coils on that cylinder, along with the plugs, then drove the car another 1,000 miles and lost ignition on all left bank cylinders. I then installed a brand new left side coil pack.
From what I can tell, I'm at 97K miles on the original right side coil pack. I've thought about changing it, but I might as well see how much longer it will hold together. Maybe the failure rate isn't actually 100%?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 4,037
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From: Miami, FL
2003 CL 600
They will all fail eventually, it seems that new stress is the killer, a car that was always babied and now gets used properly, or a car that was stock for many years and now gets tuned, they go out in short order. The extra heat they have to carry, longer dwell times, higher voltages, etc seems to be the finishing blow.
Member
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 136
Likes: 29
2015 S600, 2014 E550 4-Matic
They will all fail eventually, it seems that new stress is the killer, a car that was always babied and now gets used properly, or a car that was stock for many years and now gets tuned, they go out in short order. The extra heat they have to carry, longer dwell times, higher voltages, etc seems to be the finishing blow.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 425
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From: Eurocharged Orlando
10 C63, 06 S65, 14 ML350, 95 S500
My 06 s65 has 71k miles, bought it with 59k in December 2014. Mostly florida highway driving / "country" road driving, very little "stop and go" driving. Every now an then ill drive in a "spirited manner." Car was originally from Barrington Illinois a $$$ town. Always MB serviced. Records did not show any coil pack replacement. I only had misfires 3 times since I had the car, but they went away. This usually happened in really hot weather while I was stuck in traffic.
