---> CALI's hands-on ... STABLE CHASSIS VOLTAGE !!!
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From: Bulgaria
C43 AMG '17 / Stage II
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Great drive today, outside temperature was 20c, been flooring the vehicle, came back in the garage, absolutely cold to the touch hood. Pretty sure that was because of the oil pump solenoid mod mainly but ALT-LIN might had played a role, at least the ECU didn't heat up as much as before multitasking I would think. 
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Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 512
Likes: 86
From: Bulgaria
C43 AMG '17 / Stage II
Great drive today, outside temperature was 20c, been flooring the vehicle, came back in the garage, absolutely cold to the touch hood. Pretty sure that was because of the oil pump solenoid mod mainly but ALT-LIN might had played a role, at least the ECU didn't heat up as much as before multitasking I would think.
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,957
Likes: 6,796
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
NORMAL ENGINE HEAT... PARADOXAL SOLUTIONS
Until not long ago... I did not think these engines could run with normally controlled heat. Now I can say: yes they can run fanless.
Of course, this doesn't mean you can redline in summer without getting high heat FAN:ON.
Yet it literally is amazing when you return home that the garage no longer gets steamy hot.
>> "Normal Heat" is the combined function of:
The first time I experienced "normal heat" level was with JCM recommendations of 5W-40 Motul. I was in disbelief!!! It lasted a while then heat resumed. I learned something essential then.
This is beyond the the IC-Display gauge registering any changes. Heat is not well tracked or captured because its transferred by the combustion blow-by gases - NO GAUGE ON THAT!! Only oil and water are somewhat measured.
When the whole aluminum engine block is streamed up, the fan gets turned on but hardly satisfies sensors.
This explains why big supersonic fan appears so ineffective even in winter... yes?
Once you understand FAN:ON hardly remove heat, you can go about finding solutions that effectively control heat.
That's where I'm at: driveability with normal heat.
+++ LOL ...
Realize the results of this highly sophisticated cooling system made ineffective by couple factors.
The clue is to CONTROL THE SOURCE.
Of course, this doesn't mean you can redline in summer without getting high heat FAN:ON.
Yet it literally is amazing when you return home that the garage no longer gets steamy hot.
>> "Normal Heat" is the combined function of:
- effective piston heat removal at driving Rpm
- stable engine timings
- minimal hot blow-by gases
The first time I experienced "normal heat" level was with JCM recommendations of 5W-40 Motul. I was in disbelief!!! It lasted a while then heat resumed. I learned something essential then.
This is beyond the the IC-Display gauge registering any changes. Heat is not well tracked or captured because its transferred by the combustion blow-by gases - NO GAUGE ON THAT!! Only oil and water are somewhat measured.
When the whole aluminum engine block is streamed up, the fan gets turned on but hardly satisfies sensors.
This explains why big supersonic fan appears so ineffective even in winter... yes?
Once you understand FAN:ON hardly remove heat, you can go about finding solutions that effectively control heat.
That's where I'm at: driveability with normal heat.
+++ LOL ...
Realize the results of this highly sophisticated cooling system made ineffective by couple factors.
The clue is to CONTROL THE SOURCE.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 24, 2025 at 04:29 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 512
Likes: 86
From: Bulgaria
C43 AMG '17 / Stage II
Until not long ago... I did not think these engines could run with normally controlled heat. Now I can say: yes they can run fanless.
Of course, this doesn't mean you can redline in summer without getting high heat FAN:ON.
Yet it literally is amazing when you return home that the garage no longer gets steamy hot.
"Normal Heat" is a function of:
The first time I experienced "normal heat" level was with JCM recommendations of 5W-40 Motul. I was in disbelief!!! It lasted a while then heat resumed. I learned something essential then.
This is beyond the the IC-Display gauge registering any changes. Heat is not well tracked or captured because its transferred by the combustion blow-by gases - NO GAUGE ON THAT!! Only oil and water are somewhat measured.
When the whole aluminum engine block is streamed up, the fan gets turned on but hardly satisfies sensors.
Of course, this doesn't mean you can redline in summer without getting high heat FAN:ON.
Yet it literally is amazing when you return home that the garage no longer gets steamy hot.
"Normal Heat" is a function of:
- effective piston heat removal at driving Rpm
- good engine timings reduced frictions
- minimal hot blow-by gases
The first time I experienced "normal heat" level was with JCM recommendations of 5W-40 Motul. I was in disbelief!!! It lasted a while then heat resumed. I learned something essential then.
This is beyond the the IC-Display gauge registering any changes. Heat is not well tracked or captured because its transferred by the combustion blow-by gases - NO GAUGE ON THAT!! Only oil and water are somewhat measured.
When the whole aluminum engine block is streamed up, the fan gets turned on but hardly satisfies sensors.
really hope to feel the diff in positive way from Motul Xcess 5w40 SN
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,957
Likes: 6,796
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
EXPECTATIONS -- TARGETS
You need to control that blow-by pressure of your. Master Suurya showed you the plastic check valves pipes in your TT PCV system.
That will get your ECU in the mood of much greater engine response. No need to push redline until your engine is normally balanced. You have a 25% penalty from lost compressions compensated by boost.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 24, 2025 at 04:24 PM.
MBWorld God!
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Since this is the first summer with ALT-LIN unplugged, I am not sure when my fan will kick in. However, the highest temperature it reached today was 102C at 20C ambient temperature. Well be interesting how it will be in 30c-40c temperatures.
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,336
Likes: 6,315
Until not long ago... I did not think these engines could run with normally controlled heat. Now I can say: yes they can run fanless.
Of course, this doesn't mean you can redline in summer without getting high heat FAN:ON.
Yet it literally is amazing when you return home that the garage no longer gets steamy hot.
>> "Normal Heat" is the combined function of:
The first time I experienced "normal heat" level was with JCM recommendations of 5W-40 Motul. I was in disbelief!!! It lasted a while then heat resumed. I learned something essential then.
This is beyond the the IC-Display gauge registering any changes. Heat is not well tracked or captured because its transferred by the combustion blow-by gases - NO GAUGE ON THAT!! Only oil and water are somewhat measured.
When the whole aluminum engine block is streamed up, the fan gets turned on but hardly satisfies sensors.
This explains why big supersonic fan appears so ineffective even in winter... yes?
Once you understand FAN:ON hardly remove heat, you can go about finding solutions that effectively control heat.
That's where I'm at: driveability with normal heat.
+++ LOL ...
Realize the results of this highly sophisticated cooling system made ineffective by couple factors.
The clue is to CONTROL THE SOURCE.
Of course, this doesn't mean you can redline in summer without getting high heat FAN:ON.
Yet it literally is amazing when you return home that the garage no longer gets steamy hot.
>> "Normal Heat" is the combined function of:
- effective piston heat removal at driving Rpm
- stable engine timings
- minimal hot blow-by gases
The first time I experienced "normal heat" level was with JCM recommendations of 5W-40 Motul. I was in disbelief!!! It lasted a while then heat resumed. I learned something essential then.
This is beyond the the IC-Display gauge registering any changes. Heat is not well tracked or captured because its transferred by the combustion blow-by gases - NO GAUGE ON THAT!! Only oil and water are somewhat measured.
When the whole aluminum engine block is streamed up, the fan gets turned on but hardly satisfies sensors.
This explains why big supersonic fan appears so ineffective even in winter... yes?
Once you understand FAN:ON hardly remove heat, you can go about finding solutions that effectively control heat.
That's where I'm at: driveability with normal heat.
+++ LOL ...
Realize the results of this highly sophisticated cooling system made ineffective by couple factors.
The clue is to CONTROL THE SOURCE.
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Super Member
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 512
Likes: 86
From: Bulgaria
C43 AMG '17 / Stage II
Kris: you know Motul 5w-40-SP results are not far apart from 5w-40-SN.
You need to control that blow-by pressure of your. Master Suurya showed you the plastic check valves pipes in your TT PCV system.
That will get your ECU in the mood of much greater engine response. No need to push redline until your engine is normally balanced. You have a 25% penalty from lost compressions compensated by boost.
You need to control that blow-by pressure of your. Master Suurya showed you the plastic check valves pipes in your TT PCV system.
That will get your ECU in the mood of much greater engine response. No need to push redline until your engine is normally balanced. You have a 25% penalty from lost compressions compensated by boost.
tomorrow will see if my friend who will service the car have this vacuum tester to do the test suggested from MS also will clean my x2 MAPs too, i do think they might be not so clean as it should as im with non stock intake and when i oil filters it might produce some contaminations too isnt it
(also im sitting already on 132k km.. :/)will keep my feedback in the respective thread for each mod too
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 512
Likes: 86
From: Bulgaria
C43 AMG '17 / Stage II
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,957
Likes: 6,796
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
NO SUPER HEAT... COOL!
- the firewall stayed cool
- engine response stayed consistent
- tranny shifts stayed perfectly seemless
- front struts not bouncy
- HL LED did not cool after stopping
Gotta remove piston heat at normal driving Rpm... not simply above 2500R'
Temp measure are hardly significant because blow-by heat is hardly captured. The best way to control heat is as mentioned earlier.
When FAN stops it's evidence ECU is satisfied by sensor/map computation.
+++ Heat accumulated at driving speed is still there after stopping.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 24, 2025 at 05:58 PM.
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in terms of getting heat and not burning too quick i think i should see some diff but let me test it out
tomorrow will see if my friend who will service the car have this vacuum tester to do the test suggested from MS also will clean my x2 MAPs too, i do think they might be not so clean as it should as im with non stock intake and when i oil filters it might produce some contaminations too isnt it (also im sitting already on 132k km.. :/)
will keep my feedback in the respective thread for each mod too
tomorrow will see if my friend who will service the car have this vacuum tester to do the test suggested from MS also will clean my x2 MAPs too, i do think they might be not so clean as it should as im with non stock intake and when i oil filters it might produce some contaminations too isnt it
(also im sitting already on 132k km.. :/)will keep my feedback in the respective thread for each mod too
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,336
Likes: 6,315
Summer/Winter has very little effect on busy fan... I was really pleased last summer when my fan was not running on one of the hostest 100°F weather.
Gotta remove piston heat at normal driving Rpm... not simply above 2500R'
Temp measure are hardly significant because blow-by heat is hardly captured. The best way to control heat is as mentioned earlier.
When FAN stops it's evidence ECU is satisfied by sensor/map computation.
+++ Heat accumulated at driving speed is still there after stopping.
- the firewall stayed cool
- engine response stayed consistent
- tranny shifts stayed perfectly seemless
- front struts not bouncy
- HL LED did not cool after stopping
Gotta remove piston heat at normal driving Rpm... not simply above 2500R'
Temp measure are hardly significant because blow-by heat is hardly captured. The best way to control heat is as mentioned earlier.
When FAN stops it's evidence ECU is satisfied by sensor/map computation.
+++ Heat accumulated at driving speed is still there after stopping.
Super Member
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 512
Likes: 86
From: Bulgaria
C43 AMG '17 / Stage II
Summer/Winter has very little effect on busy fan... I was really pleased last summer when my fan was not running on one of the hostest 100°F weather.
Gotta remove piston heat at normal driving Rpm... not simply above 2500R'
Temp measure are hardly significant because blow-by heat is hardly captured. The best way to control heat is as mentioned earlier.
When FAN stops it's evidence ECU is satisfied by sensor/map computation.
+++ Heat accumulated at driving speed is still there after stopping.
- the firewall stayed cool
- engine response stayed consistent
- tranny shifts stayed perfectly seemless
- front struts not bouncy
- HL LED did not cool after stopping
Gotta remove piston heat at normal driving Rpm... not simply above 2500R'
Temp measure are hardly significant because blow-by heat is hardly captured. The best way to control heat is as mentioned earlier.
When FAN stops it's evidence ECU is satisfied by sensor/map computation.
+++ Heat accumulated at driving speed is still there after stopping.
btw recently i heard my HL to run the fan never heard them before, it was raining i think but can't remember and i thought maybe that's why
MBWorld God!
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Posts: 32,336
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My transmission temperature highest was 89 and usually stay at 82. Operating temperature is 50 and above I understand but it likes to get up to 82 and stay there, since I got the car so I think that is normal.
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,957
Likes: 6,796
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
TEXTBOOK decoy NUMBERS 😉
I forgot to mention just cruising, it quickly went back down to 96 and lowest was 94.
My transmission temperature highest was 89 and usually stay at 82. Operating temperature is 50 and above I understand but it likes to get up to 82 and stay there, since I got the car so I think that is normal.
My transmission temperature highest was 89 and usually stay at 82. Operating temperature is 50 and above I understand but it likes to get up to 82 and stay there, since I got the car so I think that is normal.
They don't actually measure the heat that cause FAN to run in winter.
That's why personally I do not trust numbers I believe are not linked to true engine heat.
The error margin is too wide.
+++ THE PARADOX:
Even though fan + winter driving certainly cool of the radiator it's still ineffective at cooling the engine.
So the fan stays ON ineffective even in winter.
Turn that problem around successfully:
No fan even in 100°F summer with better performance.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 24, 2025 at 09:56 PM.
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,957
Likes: 6,796
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
HEAT SOURCE
Throttle Lag and Heatsoaks damages are all one and the same topic.
Now we have options related to effective pistons spray cooling + sealing.
The one reason not to use 5W-50 is to redline unbalanced engines as-is. It should be safe around 4k.Rpm until rings cleans up.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 24, 2025 at 08:05 PM.
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Super Member
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 512
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From: Bulgaria
C43 AMG '17 / Stage II
@CaliBenzDriver quick question regarding the CTEK recharge
If you do long trip 2-400km is this the same as to charge with CTEK for 1h AGM setting?
If you do long trip 2-400km is this the same as to charge with CTEK for 1h AGM setting?
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,957
Likes: 6,796
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
battery charge data
@CaliBenzDriver quick question regarding the CTEK recharge
If you do long trip 2-400km is this the same as to charge with CTEK for 1h AGM setting?
If you do long trip 2-400km is this the same as to charge with CTEK for 1h AGM setting?
This should happen very easily with ALT-LIN after 15mn driving.
There are reasons this does not happen:
-- One is if the battery was discharged to begin with.
-- Two is if charge circuit is not in good shape.
-- Three a poor main GND strap!
So set your IC Display to show battery sensor info. Then you'll see exactly what is happening live.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Apr 29, 2025 at 02:01 PM.
MBWorld God!
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When the battery charge current is less than 1Amp at 14V the battery is fully charged up.
This should happen very easily with ALT-LIN after 15mn driving.
There are reasons this does not happen.
-- One is if the battery was discharged to begin with.
-- Two is if charge circuit is not in good shape.
-- Three a poor main GND strap!
So set the IC Display to show battery sensor info. Then you'll see exactly what is happening live.
This should happen very easily with ALT-LIN after 15mn driving.
There are reasons this does not happen.
-- One is if the battery was discharged to begin with.
-- Two is if charge circuit is not in good shape.
-- Three a poor main GND strap!
So set the IC Display to show battery sensor info. Then you'll see exactly what is happening live.
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,957
Likes: 6,796
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
