Thanks to @CaliBenzDriver for this valuable thread after the Oil mod, so after reboot the chassis we should expect the IB: X Amperage to be as low as possible which we benefit from more smooth tranny + more responsive throttle?

Today I've a look at my car what is shows and currently stays above 14V and the Amperage was floating between 7-11 while im waiting on street light and didn't pay attention when i drive how it behaves

Will try next week to see if I can unlpug this socket from the alternator

I want to bring something which i notice to happen for several times, 3 weeks ago my car behaves a bit strange the tranny wasn't so accurate when to downshift etc. i didn't drive the car for 2 days then I notice the car did more accurate downshifts and a bit more accurate when i accelerate

today: i didn't drive the car for 3 days and today the car behaves even better than the last time when i didn't drive for 2 days, which means even more precise and accurate when i accelerate OR when i stop the downshifts are more better (so i can't explain what might be the reason, some reset of the modules or what could be), so i can't imagine when i reboot the alternator how much better can be..?

Thanks again and will post when i do have any updates (will try to make photos for @W205C43PFL ) and for the members as well if i manage to find the cable that i have to unplug

P.S. @CaliBenzDriver i saw above that you mentioned after you unplug the alternator when you stop the car your tranny stays at 1st gear no matter of the engine mode (E, C, S), but isn't designed to be in 1st gear only in Sport mode and for the Economy/Comfort to stays at 2nd gear, so if this was the design then why appear after the MOD to stays at 1st gear (im just bit confused)

P.S. 2
I want to bring something that i made as kind of "improvement" as I get tired of changing my vacuum pump valve (with the famous stupid orange membrane) so i purchase a check valve (cost me 2$) I cut in the middle the vacuum line which goes into the pump valve and i plugged my valve so that way i will stop bothering with this membrane if it's gone

 

On a cold start like the first start of the day, the tranny will shift to 1st gear regardless of the mode. Is that because of the tranny fluid temperature or some other trigger?

I normally drive in S mode, so I will need to put the car in E and see if it goes all the way to 1st gear when warmed up and stopped at a light or something.

 

@kistiyanpetrov it's not you who's confused it's your tranny TCU having a hard time to adapt to engine throttle lag.

Stopping in D2 I believe to be only the "tip of the iceberg" materializing poor gear selection.

Does it work, it sure does ... wait until you see how tranny manages gears selection under "normal" conditions.

It will be a dream come through controlled by a rock solid gas pedal.

>> Factory banging will be transformed into transparent seemless shifts always in the right RPM range, ready to launch easily.

but until you get there... tranny work will get hell o' confused while engine is improving.
Patience required during interactive journey! No need to mess with adaptations when main issue resting on the ECU timings.

 

Only on start up no matter cold or not is at 1st gear regardless of the mode and afterwards for E, C mode stays and 2nd gear untill next start up

 

it make sense what you're saying, i just get confused why in E/C would be in 2nd gear always after you start drive and in S/S+ always brings to 1st gear at stop

 

That got me curious, I am starting to wonder if an aging battery will slowly alter the performance of the transmission shift (talking about the cars with the ALT-LIN still plugged in).

 

1st gear for better acceleration, 2nd gear start is usually for fuel economy reasons.

 

Well.. i remember when i changed my battery the only thing i notice was the car was a bit fast than before i change my battery, not sure if it was in some limp mode because of the msg that appears from time to time that i have to leave my car run on the cluster OR something else..

 

This actually started happening after a TCU update in 2018 or so. Before that, my 2017 used to cold start in 2nd gear in comfort mode. I would say it is normal and intended behaviour after the update for the car to start up at 1st gear.

 

Our cars are very sensitive to voltage changes, come to think of it, a new battery and a new aux battery will improve shifting response.

 

True but i don't drive in E/C anyway my individual mode is S for engine and C for suspension.. and in this case when you unplug the alternator you dismiss the fuel "economy" from the factory


I think i do notice this that my car before the updates was staying at 2nd gear and after the update of the ECU and TCU started at 1st..

 

It is part of a software change by MB I believe.

 

Very steady and healthy looking, almost like what it should had been from factory to be honest but MB chose a different route.

 

Ya, except unplugging the ALT-LIN actually improves fuel economy from what I had been reading : )

 

Yes normal behaviour after the update, MB deliberately changed it so it starts at 1st gear on cold start.

 

nice little mod, thanks for sharing : ) bookmarked in case I ever need it.

 

well.. i will be surprised if your one is still fine as this proved to fail pretty common, not sure for NA if that's the case but at least @JettaRed i think on his TT engine should have it as well so is a good MOD

 

Ah yes that is a good question, I will need to check it but I want to get this plug off first haha.

 

I forgot to state the obvious... if unstable voltage does not affect your chassis, don't do anything experimental to it.

My E-mode D2 gear transformed into D1 without any firmware update and without playing will paddle shifters to help train TCU.


overnight stay, 1mn after start at low idle: IB = 5Amp.

 

tmrw will when i do the cold start will take a pic what it will shows but for sure it will be a twice on your figures (A)

 

> A DROP IN THE OCEAN:
Up front I will say ECU voltage sensitivity is not really affected by aged battery compared to the ALT factory 2.3Volt swing [12.6v --14.9v].

Battery does not supply power the chassis, ALT supplies 100% of DC power at all time. Batt is by stander load .

You don't need to float your battery but its a very positive thing to do. You'll enjoy the difference... in that sense battery is in circuit for helping AC-Impedance but not for hurting DC-Resistance.


> BLEEDING EDGE:
This is not mandatory but "nice to have" cherry on your cake:

-- When you experiment with ALT-LIN to cancel the unstable voltage, the electric circuit can further benefit from floated battery characteristics.

-- Then salty "main GND Strap" drops something too. For me GND need to be pristine and 100% reliable. Bad GND connections can fry modules. Factory painted + salted GND need to be delt with.

So does also the PreFuse K2 MOSFET solid-state relay but will ignore it for now. I don't think we can improve on the FET R-D/S-ON drop.

 

Thanks for the clarification, makes sense.

 

>> TODAY AGAIN.... ZERO COOLING FAN
I am really begining to think the engine efficiency improvement translate in less engine heat.

I know this is "winter", my engine fan would normally be running to remove heat...regardless of mild 55°F weather.
knock on wood. 🤞

That would mean the engine lag is also its source of extreme heat.
More power from less gas with less heat that is EFFICIENCY...

Forget the "regenerative 14.9v bursts": it's only a chaos factor.

I am really starting to like this ALT unplug going in the right direction.

 

Here's my C350 post startup and at idle.

 

Here's my SL400 after warmup.