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what you describe is the ballpark of weak accelerations from LEAN MISFIRES. Some ppl complain about LAG...
Some engines have it more, some less... what few have is an engine that builds a strong fuel map below 2500Rpm.
Now your engine does, all by itself with a "normal" setup.
Did you also notice your first start had a jumpy idle after this mod? Mine has never done that , the car started then RPM needle bounced up and down then settled. Will it do this every cold startup I wonder?
Did you also notice your first start had a jumpy idle after this mod? Mine has never done that , the car started then RPM needle bounced up and down then settled. Will it do this every cold startup I wonder?
Cold start now rapidly progress down to idle since MOD-4. I dont think ALT-LIN has changed that.
The "Start - no Crank" when warm are still sort of whenever (not too hot, not too cold) Mostly after like 45mn stopped... engine ignites in only a quarter turn of flywheel. (if too hot, nope)
Now what's different with ALT-LIN are hot restarts.
Engine launches into Rpms then cuts back down to idle.
What's different also is the additional low rpm torque from the solid accelerator pedal.
This is better firing of richer mixtures that are approved by Lambda feedback.
Tranny got a little goofy selecting gears unlike prior so I have entire confidence of what that great gearbox is going to figure just like it did with MOD-4. ECU needs to be settled before TCU can learn stable matches.
Overall I am amazed at how the GDI and the gearbox launch that car weightlessly... very nice to drive a light responsive chassis with straight biased steering - Way different than the disfunctional new car I was sold.
Engine fan seems to still be learning better behavior, mainly du to lower engine heat production both mods helping that. As far as I know stock temperature control is flipping poor. Gone are the days of dry pistons steeming my garage during heatsoaks : MOD-4!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 17, 2025 at 11:57 PM.
Cold start now rapidly progress down to idle since MOD-4. I dont think ALT-LIN has changed that.
The "Start - no Crank" when warm are still sort of whenever (not to hot, not to cold) Mostly after like 45mn stopped... engine ignites in only a quarter turn of flywheel. (if too hot, nope)
Now what's different with ALT-LIN are hot restarts.
Engine launches into Rpms then cuts back down to idle.
What's different also is the additional low rpm torque from the solid accelerator pedal.
This is better firing of richer mixtures that approved by Lambda feedback.
Tranny got a little goofy picking gears unlike prior so I have entire confidence of what that great gearbox is going to figure just like it did with MOD-4.
Overall I am amazed at how the GDI and the gearbox launch that car weightlessly... very nice to drive a light responsive chasdis with straight biased steering - Way different than the hot disfunctional new car I was handed by the clueless dealer.
Engine fan seems to be learning better behavior, mainly du to lower engine heat production both mods help that).
flat head screwdriver will come from the bottom upwards, and put it against that tab and pull sort of like a crowbar out of the connector housing towards the wheel, you will notice which direction to pull connector .. Should wiggle out. Tab is used for leverage there is not really a grey type lock connector on it atleast not on our cars.
Last edited by Manny_c450; Jan 18, 2025 at 12:05 AM.
flat head screwdriver will come from the bottom upwards, and put it against that tab and pull sort of like a crowbar out of the connector housing towards the wheel, you will notice which direction to pull connector .. Should wiggle out. Tab is used for leverage there is not really a grey type lock connector on it atleast not on our cars.
Helpful, thank you! Notch away from ziptie or is the ziptie in the way of the notch?
Here's an extra reason to get engine heat under control:
you will notice the front end hugs the road when the 200°F engine heat doesn't drop the struts oil viscosity.
I don't think the single temp sensor on Bank-2 tracks the engine heat well nor allows the ECU to manage its Tstat well. A poor system from day 1.
Heat regulation is marginal but seems to be improving all by itself. Meaning runtime heat must be managed and stay consistent else adaptations are defeated.. oil viscosities and engine timings are linked to controlled set heat.
It's a chaos factor for blue ATF advertised as "ultra thin ATF" , VVT Gears and struts.
I see my engine heat trending towards "normal" as mpg efficiency climbs. We'll see how heat factor goes.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 18, 2025 at 03:48 AM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by CaliBenzDriver
Who likes his chariot bouncy ??
Here's an extra reason to get engine heat under control:
you will notice the front end hugs the road when the 200°F engine heat doesn't drop the struts oil viscosity.
I will have to check my C350, but the SL400 has heat shields between the engine (turbos) and wheel well. I also have the Bilstein Damptronic semi-active suspension on the SL. Not ABC, but still electrically controlled allowing switching between Comfort and Sport.
Also, with the AMG menu, I can observe the oil temperature and coolant temperature in the C350, and add the tranny temp in the SL. My temps have been fairly stable in both cars once reaching operating temperatures. The tranny temp stays the most consistent but will go as high as 180°F in the summer.
You want your AGM to act as a capacitor to smooth voltage ripples, not as an electric load.
Initially I did not float after disconnecting, I only rebooted because I was after sanitizing CAN Modules.
Once I realized, the chassis was voltage sensitive then I decided to float the battery on "AGM setting" while out of circuit.
This step delivered additional improvements ... then I knew the system was ultra sensitive.
Realizing this got me saying... "non compliant!'
> "ALT-LIN" Experimentally Cancels... :
-- "drained by driving yoyo" discharge below 12.0/11.0V with 90Amps "battery cooking" bug: the original Mercedes yoyo.
-- "voltage swings" from float:12.6V to burst:14.9V shown to be a waste of mpg efficiency by non-compliant chassis.
-- "Engine LAG" caused by lean fuel maps caused by poor firings
-- "Banging tranny" + "low gear slugging" caused by throttle lag effectively disabling TCU excellent self-adaptability.
-- "extreme heat" in addition to oiling MOD-4 5W50 piston spray cooling.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 18, 2025 at 02:37 PM.
You want your AGM to act as a capacitor to smooth voltage ripples, not as an electric load.
Initially I did not float after disconnecting, I only rebooted because I was after sanitizing CAN Modules.
Once I realized, the chassis was voltage sensitive then I decided to float the battery on AGM setting while out of circuit.
This step delivered additional improvements ... then I knew the system was ultra sensitive.
Realizing this got me saying... "non compliant!'
Do you mind posting the steps to how to properly float the AGM (your way?) so there are no confusions? Your reboot thread is helpful just confused about the float part : )
Do you mind posting the steps to how to properly float the AGM (your way?) so there are no confusions? Your reboot thread is helpful just confused about the float part : )
Ideally we want the most stable voltage with fewest amount of ripples. It's not mandatory but floating will help your bottom line as it did for me.
Best electricals come with the AGM acting as a large capacitor with its low internal impedance.
The 12VDC chassis electrical has dynamic caracteristics. It's not quite AC but charging ignition coils with current involves impedance and frequencies, no longer DC only. Some voltage spikes are our friends for ignition, while most other spikes are undesirables (this calls for taskforce study of ignition harness! MB left no stones up turned ).
The bottom line for a great power supply is you want the least resistance to get the lowest impedance.
You can float your main AGM battery "regular mode" in circuit or with "AGM Mode" out of circuit.
The chassis sound amplifier uses barebone 16V capacitors that are not too friendly with 15V. So personally I try not to AGM Float in circuit.
Floating a lead-acid battery equalizes cells voltage to lower internal resistance... it makes battery act new again!! I use a CTEK charger for this purpose.
description of charging modes and steps
"Regular float" mode in circuit
"AGM Float" while REBOOTING your chassis when batt is disconnected out.
A healthy battery takes 1-Hr only
An tired battery takes over night
Floating rejuvenates the battery so it will work better and take less time to absorb float charge.
If $170 AGM battery was ECO cycled and drained... its charging capacity will be reduced. I retired my main AGM at 10Yr mark (No ECO, No Yoyo!)
+++ QUICK STEPS ARE:
This procedure best combines [reboot + Floating]
-1- Disconnect main/aux batteries
-2- Float main "AGM settings" (AUX if you want as well)
-3- Reconnect batteries (using jumper cables if you care!)
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 18, 2025 at 02:34 PM.
Ideally we want the most stable voltage with fewest amount of ripples. It's not mandatory but floating will help your bottom line.
Best electricals come with the AGM acting as a large capacitor with its low internal impedance.
The 12VDC chassis electrical has dynamic caracteristics. It's not quite AC but charging ignition coils with current involves impedance and frequencies, no longer DC only. Some voltage spikes are our friends for ignition, while most other spikes are undesirables. (this calls for taskforce study of ignition harness).
The bottom line for a great power supply is you want the least resistance to get the lowest impedance.
You can float your main AGM battery "regular mode" in circuit or with "AGM Mode" out of circuit.
The chassis sound amplifier uses barebone 16V capacitors that are not too friendly with 15V. So personally I try not to AGM Float in circuit.
Floating a lead-acid battery equalizes cells voltage to lower internal resistance... it makes battery act new again!! I use a CTEK charger for this purpose.
description of charging modes and steps
"Regular float" mode in circuit
"AGM Float" while REBOOTING your chassis when batt is disconnected out.
A healthy battery takes 1-Hr only
An tired battery takes over night
Floating rejuvenates the battery so it will work better and take less time to absorb float charge.
If $170 AGM battery was ECO cycled and drained... its charging capacity will be reduced. I retired my main AGM at 10Yr mark (No ECO, No Yoyo!)
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Here's a short 2 minute video of my voltage and amperage after a cold start of my SL400. The voltage holds true at 14.0V-14.1V and the amperage drops in a controlled manner from 17.0A to 4.9A when I ended the video. Amperage continued to drop steadily. The car was idling, so next I will try to get a video while driving.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
(if too hot, nope)
