---> CALI's hands-on ... STABLE CHASSIS VOLTAGE !!!
MBWorld God!
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I'm late joining this discussion, and I haven't thoroughly read and comprehended every post (some tangential to the OP topic), but has anyone verified that this single alternator wire is indeed a LIN bus? LIN bus connections are 3-wire -- power, ground and low speed bidirectional data -- that have LIN transceiver devices at each end to coordinate the exchange of data. This single wire is more characteristic of a quasi-static bi-level switch. Similar to a brake pad wear sensor that switches between ground and open. What exactly is being signaled to the ECU with this single wire that causes the reported behaviours?
BTW, I had my battery sensor disconnected for about 3 years to disable the start/stop function until I was able to kill it for good with my Launch scanner. The exuberance I experienced being rid of *** overwhelmed any sensation of improved engine or transmission performance, so unfortunately I have nothing to comment about regarding its impact.
BTW, I had my battery sensor disconnected for about 3 years to disable the start/stop function until I was able to kill it for good with my Launch scanner. The exuberance I experienced being rid of *** overwhelmed any sensation of improved engine or transmission performance, so unfortunately I have nothing to comment about regarding its impact.
MBWorld God!
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That is the confusing part, if it was just like other forum members' I would know how to approach it, if it looks exactly like the CPS connectors, I would had been able to do it easily as I am familiar with that, I unplugged the oil pump solenoid sensor from the top. This one on the other hand is confusing.
MBWorld God!
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It also certainly doesn't help that the rear of the sensor is facing the back side of the engine, if I can at least see how it looks like, I might had been able to successfully do it.
Last edited by W205C43PFL; Jan 20, 2025 at 10:49 AM.
Member
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C450
No need to see this connector, moreso by feel, notch is definitely there. Unfortunately only way would be to jack it up and do from bottom.. which is annoying in this Ontario cold. Fingers may be too weak to pull this thing off that is why a screwdriver wedged in between will loosen it up from bottom in my case atleast..
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,495
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
I'm late joining this discussion, and I haven't thoroughly read and comprehended every post (some tangential to the OP topic), but has anyone verified that this single alternator wire is indeed a LIN bus? LIN bus connections are 3-wire -- power, ground and low speed bidirectional data -- that have LIN transceiver devices at each end to coordinate the exchange of data. This single wire is more characteristic of a quasi-static bi-level switch. Similar to a brake pad wear sensor that switches between ground and open. What exactly is being signaled to the ECU with this single wire that causes the reported behaviours?
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
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Likes: 6,275
No need to see this connector, moreso by feel, notch is definitely there. Unfortunately only way would be to jack it up and do from bottom.. which is annoying in this Ontario cold. Fingers may be too weak to pull this thing off that is why a screwdriver wedged in between will loosen it up from bottom in my case atleast..
MBWorld God!
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Not really sure what the signal is, but here is the schematic. You will get a DTC, but not a CEL.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...0f256894c2.png
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...4cb47b20df.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...0f256894c2.png
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...4cb47b20df.png
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Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,921
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
FORWARD PROGRESS
I'm late joining this discussion, and I haven't thoroughly read and comprehended every post (some tangential to the OP topic), but has anyone verified that this single alternator wire is indeed a LIN bus? LIN bus connections are 3-wire -- power, ground and low speed bidirectional data -- that have LIN transceiver devices at each end to coordinate the exchange of data. This single wire is more characteristic of a quasi-static bi-level switch. Similar to a brake pad wear sensor that switches between ground and open. What exactly is being signaled to the ECU with this single wire that causes the reported behaviours?
BTW, I had my battery sensor disconnected for about 3 years to disable the start/stop function until I was able to kill it for good with my Launch scanner. The exuberance I experienced being rid of *** overwhelmed any sensation of improved engine or transmission performance, so unfortunately I have nothing to comment about regarding its impact.
BTW, I had my battery sensor disconnected for about 3 years to disable the start/stop function until I was able to kill it for good with my Launch scanner. The exuberance I experienced being rid of *** overwhelmed any sensation of improved engine or transmission performance, so unfortunately I have nothing to comment about regarding its impact.
I am sure someone will eventually come across an entirely different setup. Every year model, chassis and engine brings differences.
We can only hope better ECU were made compatible with variable [12.6V to 14.9V] voltage without factory laggy engines/tranny throttle (**)
Thus you should confirm the issues you want fixed before experimenting.
Old basic LIN Bus is as described everywhere. It is used to interface ECU with W212 ALT such that voltage regulation is remotely controlled by the ECU. The bus itself works really well. What's done with ALT control calls for reliable engineering.
> What Does Not Work Well :
-1- the engine multi-shot GDI ignition under variable voltage causing limited driveability (**).
-2- the R-SAM CAN signaling to F-SAM>CGW>ECU that leads to deep drained by driving below 12v/11v and complimentary X-MasTree and LimpMode. The lack of failsafe voltage is dangerous.
Experimenting with automotive settings is not for everyone. An easy step is using a CTEK Battery tender or equivalent to help with stock battery drain.
(**) TASKFORCE GDI IGNITION TIMINGS:
Identifying the source of timing chaos calls for further fixing.
It's unfavorable to ignore side effects of this roller coaster.
We found the stock engine operating under touchy conditions.
Anything that affect timings impacts driveability performance. My engine now runs vibration free under load with even contributions.
Factors are ...:
- pistons oiling
- variable voltage << - !!! -
- (gasoline grade)
- coils specs << - ! -
- spark-plug under gapping << - ! -
- harness impedance << - !!! -
- cyl. compressions
- cyl. temperatures
- CAN-C timings << - ! -
- ECU Lambda fuel map
- TCU auto adaptations.
The chassis is proven to works better given stable operational timings.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 20, 2025 at 03:22 PM.
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,921
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From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
NO CAN'T DO...
Focus on OPERATING THE LATCH
PLAN B: save time with 5mn surgery at ECU CON-M
Don't let that piece of plastic stop you.
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,921
Likes: 6,769
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,921
Likes: 6,769
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
GND HAS TO BE RELIABLE
There's nothing better than a schematic to frame things clearly.
LIN bus signaling is referenced to "common GND" meaning it needs a glitch-free GND to flow data with minimal glitches overhead.
So clean the painted posts + double-up the salty GND strap.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 20, 2025 at 06:26 PM.
MBWorld God!
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MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,217
Likes: 6,275
Install a CON-M toggle switch for when you can't have active ECU faults: ON/OFF
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...a8cc8ba057.jpg
toggle sw including pigtails
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...a8cc8ba057.jpg
toggle sw including pigtails
MBWorld God!
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As in how should I use the tool to my advantage, how should I point and rotate?
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,495
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Just to be clear, have you gotten under the car yet? That may be your only option. My alternator sits right above the steering rack, if that helps to locate it. Yours may be different, though.
MBWorld God!
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Why does this remind me of a lock-picking video I watched on YouTube? (Sorry! Not trying to be mean.)
Just to be clear, have you gotten under the car yet? That may be your only option. My alternator sits right above the steering rack, if that helps to locate it. Yours may be different, though.
Just to be clear, have you gotten under the car yet? That may be your only option. My alternator sits right above the steering rack, if that helps to locate it. Yours may be different, though.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._QL70_ML2_.jpg
no : ( I can't go under the car yet, might need a few weeks to a month or two. I might need postpone this if it doesn't work.
Thread Starter
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,921
Likes: 6,769
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
PLASTIC LATCH ...
I can not recommend to pick blindly with a tool. Picking requires line of sight to see what you are doing. Holding a flashight + mirror while picking the connector... that I cant do! 
Besides sliding the latch is only the first step.
Next you'll need to squeeze, that's a job for pliers
tinny plastic parts are brittle, handle gently !!
All in all it took me less than 30mm including airbox removal and re-install. I even remembered to capture a finished view.
Besides sliding the latch is only the first step.
Next you'll need to squeeze, that's a job for pliers
tinny plastic parts are brittle, handle gently !!
All in all it took me less than 30mm including airbox removal and re-install. I even remembered to capture a finished view.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jan 20, 2025 at 09:09 PM.
MBWorld God!
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The main post that should matter is the original post by forum member CaliBenzDriver, yes the rest is the discussion on this but what you need to read is really the original post of this thread. If you are not interested in the mod, that is perfectly fine. Sorry if I wasted your time.
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 32,217
Likes: 6,275
I can not recommend to pick blindly with a tool. Picking requires line of sight to see what you are doing. Holding a flashight + mirror while picking the connector that I cant do!
Besides sliding the latch is only the first step
next you'll need to squeeze, that's a job for pliers
tinny plastic parts are brittle
All in all it took me less than 30mm including airbox removal and install. I even remembered to take couple pics.
Besides sliding the latch is only the first step
next you'll need to squeeze, that's a job for pliers
tinny plastic parts are brittle
All in all it took me less than 30mm including airbox removal and install. I even remembered to take couple pics.
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,495
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
None of these "mods" is going to produce changes like a turbo tune with a 35% bump in output, but they do make subtle, yet noticeable changes in how the car drives. The problem is, we grow accustomed to these changes so quickly you begin to think the car is now driving normally.
Here's the thing, any of these mods is completely reversible. Just plug the wire back in.
Last edited by JettaRed; Jan 21, 2025 at 11:28 AM.
MBWorld God!
Joined: Dec 2019
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Time to question life... What was I doing this whole week from the top?
Only problem is now my back is seriously hurting might had pulled a muscle, took me less than a minute to unplug it underneath. There is no clip like forum member Manny_c450 mentioned and the flat head screw driver push and wiggle did it.
Happy to say ALT-LIN on my car is successfully defeated!
Can't test it out yet as can't drive today due to back pain but look forward to it.
Thank you all of you who helped me!
Only problem is now my back is seriously hurting might had pulled a muscle, took me less than a minute to unplug it underneath. There is no clip like forum member Manny_c450 mentioned and the flat head screw driver push and wiggle did it.
Happy to say ALT-LIN on my car is successfully defeated!
Can't test it out yet as can't drive today due to back pain but look forward to it.
Thank you all of you who helped me!
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 3,495
From: Maryland
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Time to question life... What was I doing this whole week from the top?
Only problem is now my back is seriously hurting might had pulled a muscle, took me less than a minute to unplug it underneath. There is no clip like forum member Manny_c450 mentioned and the flat head screw driver push and wiggle did it.
Happy to say ALT-LIN on my car is successfully defeated!
Can't test it out yet as can't drive today due to back pain but look forward to it.
Thank you all of you who helped me!
Only problem is now my back is seriously hurting might had pulled a muscle, took me less than a minute to unplug it underneath. There is no clip like forum member Manny_c450 mentioned and the flat head screw driver push and wiggle did it.
Happy to say ALT-LIN on my car is successfully defeated!
Can't test it out yet as can't drive today due to back pain but look forward to it.
Thank you all of you who helped me!
Last edited by JettaRed; Jan 21, 2025 at 11:32 AM.
