vettebk

I had a similar experience on my S600 which has a 5 speed automatic. I asked the dealer to service the trans at 55K. They charged me $400. Only drained and refilled; not flushed at all. Also, they underfilled it on the refill which led to problems overheating and slipping within 5 months. Cost them a new transmission under warranty. My advice is after the dealer trans refill service, take it to an Indy and pay him to confirm the fluid level and color.

kevm14

I don't remember a pump step on my directions - maybe not used on W221. It should say when the step should be done or skipped (usually based on variant of transmission or chassis code in this case).

nath_h

I'm going to finally tackle this job later today or tomorrow. Regarding temperature to aim for, WIS confusingly lists 35c, 45c, and 90c for various models. I think I'm aiming for 45c for my plain vanilla 2008 M273 with 722.9. Can anyone verify?

BOTUS

I thought it was 80C

in many ways the best thing is drain fill, drive and do it all again, its all highly stupid to believe the 1 liter left in the box internals, pretending to push clean stuff though the cooler and indeed hoping it has a TC drain bung is anything like operating the entire unit with fresh fluid then do it again is anything like the same - and if you want to do it right pull all the solenoids and get the gunk off the gauze filter on each one

kevm14

It depends on whether you are doing the trans cooler, and which overflow tube/pan you are using. 90C for trans cooler replacement makes sense assuming it has a thermostat. I think I did 45C on mine based on my configuration. Don't get all crazy with temp sensors vs IR temp gun at bottom of pan. Apply common sense.

BOTUS

put the right fluid in
the early 7g boxes used blue stuff
later ones went red - red is NOT backwards compatible

same colour compatibility applies to antifreeze on these ones

nath_h

Thanks for the PDF's...those are very helpful. I have WIS, but don't have the ability to export nice PDF's out of the system. Based on comparing photos, I think I have the old style pan with a white tube, but I'll see once I open it up. It has been flushed before, so I can't rely 100% on whatever tube is in there. So I believe I'm in the 45c category. I don't think I have any additional transmission cooler, but honestly I don't entirely know what I'm looking at. Going to finish up replacing my tie rods after work today, and then start on the transmission.

konigstiger

https://operatingfluids.mercedes-ben...heet/236.14/en

lkchris

youve got that backwards.

early models transmission red

later models transmission blue

for coolant …

early models blue (G48)

later models pink (G40)

BOTUS

oh dear, must be getting old - but also confused over the old brand listed in konigstiger post

The early 7G boxes takes 236.14 - fuchs version = TITAN ATF 4134

Ultra High Performance ATF, specially developed to optimize shifting performance of Mercedes-Benz automatic transmissions. Product dyeing: red.

The later 7G boxes take 236.15 - fuchs version = TITAN ATF 7134 FE

Premium Performance ATF with reduced viscosity, especially developed to further optimize fuel-economy and gearbox efficiency of latest generation Mercedes-Benz 7-speed automatic transmissions. Not downwards compatible with previous MB-ATF-Specifications. Product dyeing: blue.


Productname
Mercedes-Benz Genuine ATF MB 236.14
MB 236.14 ATF NAG2VSport A 001 989 68 03-
MB 236.14 Genuine ATF A 000 989 68 05-
Aral Getriebeöl ATF M14
arexons ATF 236.14
ATF 6140
ATF 7-Speed
ATF 722.9R
ATF M14
Fuchs TITAN ATF 4134
IPIRANGA ATF 236.14
LETOF ATF 134
LIQUI MOLY TOP TEC ATF 1600
LIQUIMATIC DX14
LUKOIL ATF SYNTH M 14
MATIC 14
Mobil ATF 134
MOTUL ATF 236.14
Neste ATF M14
OEM AMB7
PENTOSIN ATF 134
Q8 AUTO 25
RAVENOL ATF M 9-Serie
Shell ATF134
Shell SPIRAX S6 ATF 134M
Sinopec Greatwall ATF-B14
Tim Eckart ATF 7 Performance 236.14
Total Fluidmatic 7S
Valvoline ATF Pro 236.14
ZIC ATF 914


Productname
Mercedes-Benz Genuine ATF FE MB 236.15-
MB 236.15 Genuine ATF FE A 000 989 69 05-
ATF 7150
ATF 722.9G
ATF 7GT-Speed
ATF M15
Fuchs TITAN ATF 7134 FE
LETOF ATF 134FE
LUKOIL ATF SYNTH M 15
MATIC 15
Mobil ATF 134 FE
MOTUL ATF 236.15
Neste ATF M15
OEM AMB7N
PENTOSIN ATF 134 FE
Q8 Auto M 15
RAVENOL ATF M 9-FE Serie
Shell ATF 134FE
Shell Spirax S6 ATF 134ME
Sinopec Greatwall ATF-B15
Valvoline ATF Pro 236.15
ZIC ATF 915

nath_h

Well crap, I was finishing buttoning up my project yesterday, when I broke off half one of the bolts I was torquing to the drain pan. Of course it was the driver side forward--toughest one to access. I had the torque wrench on it...really don't know what happened, or why it broke. Anyway, I've now got 1/2 a bolt broken off in the transmission housing. I can't get a needle nose pliers on it. Anyone have advice on how to extract this? To make matters my torque converter drain plug stripped as I was torquing that, so I really don't know how accurately that is screwed into the torque converter. I'm thinking my torque wrench must be off, to have these two things happen in such short order.

Can anyone advise on extracting the oil pan bolt? For the torque converter plug, I was planning to notch that with a dremmel, and hopefully screw that out. I don't think that will be as hard. Help! I was using German made Vaico parts, btw, so they shouldn't be junk.

BOTUS

AHH

that's normal - you MUST always use brand new bolts - or they snap off - they should be easy to come out its not normally the thread that's stuck

nath_h

Well, got the torque converter plug out, but the pan bolt is still stuck. Going to take it to the dealer and let them sort out the rest. It would have been easier had the bolt not been the one buried behind the front bracket and various wires. BTW, was using new bolts...just bad luck I guess.