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I'm very happy with my tune from OE Tuning on my SL600 (2004 with 22,000 miles). They say it adds about 100HP and 100 Ft/Lb torque and it is very noticeable. I also had them tune the TCU.
I'm very happy with my tune from OE Tuning on my SL600 (2004 with 22,000 miles). They say it adds about 100HP and 100 Ft/Lb torque and it is very noticeable. I also had them tune the TCU.
Have a stiff drink at hand when you price those brake discs, it looks like you've got the optional carbon/ceramic.......
Not doubting the talents of your mechanic, but if he's not a Mercedes specialist I'd say it's crucial to have a Xentry/DAS system available (if he is a M-B specialist, he'll have one). This system gives you all the computer diagnostic tools, workshop manuals, and parts catalog, just like the dealer has. I'm a fairly talented mechanic myself - 25+ years working in parts and service for GM, Toyota, Nissan, and Mitsubishi dealers, plus tons of DIY repairs/hot rodding - and I consider this an essential tool for working on these cars. Contact user BenzNinja on these forums for a rock-solid reliable system with ongoing support after the sale. You'll be able to find cheaper ways to acquire a Xentry/DAS system, but there's many users here that have had all kinds of problems with the cheaper system and end up going to BenzNinja to get it right. At absolute minimum, you'll want to get a Foxwell NT510 for OBDII diagnostics (there's a review thread for this tool at the top of this forum).
The only "must do right away" is to closely inspect all ABC lines and components for any signs of leaks. Especially pay attention to all rubber hose sections - they'll often start to "sweat" ABC fluid before they completely fail. A blown ABC line can leave the car sitting so low that it cannot be driven without damaging the car, and also so low that even getting it onto a tow truck will be a problem. Beyond this, my thoughts on ABC preventative maintenance are in post #22 of this thread.
Your coil packs and module aren't likely to completely fail and leave you stranded, so I wouldn't worry about being proactive here. If/when they start to go, you'll usually start getting misfire codes one or a few cylinders. It's possible for the voltage transformer module to fail such that you start getting misfires on one entire bank of cylinders, but still it'll most likely they won't go completely dead. When the time comes, I'd recommend you get your parts from www.v12icpack.com; they're cheaper than new, and they're rebuilt with higher quality electronic components than OEM.
The M275 intercooler system has a bit of a design flaw that causes it to get air pockets. A highly recommended upgrade for your intercooler system is to add an expansion tank. Read through this thread to see how it's done with genuine M-B parts from the later M279 version of the V12TT; it can also be done a bit cheaper with some aftermarket parts and a bit of fabrication as seen in this thread. Whichever way you choose, your intercooler system will need to be refilled using a vacuum pump to assure all air pockets are removed; here's a thread for a DIY vacuum fill tool where you can get an idea of how this is done using the intercooler bleeder valves.
There's lots of other great technical information in that forum for the M275 Bi-turbo Platform. Also, be sure check out the sticky at the top of the M275 forum for information on maximizing your intercooler system.
Last edited by brucewane; Dec 17, 2021 at 11:55 AM.
One more thing - this one you should do as soon as it's convenient.
The original lever in your shifter's park lock mechanism is made of plastic and will break sooner or later. When this happens, you can't get the car out of park. Also, since you can't get the car out of park, it's really difficult to remove the shift lever for repair. On top of that, you can't replace your shift lever with a used one; they have internal electronics that are coded to a specific VIN, so they have to be replaced with new and coded to your car by a dealer. So you really want to replace that park lock lever with an upgraded metal one -before- it fails.
brucewane: Although you were answering the OP, I want to thank you for your suggestions as I just bought a 2004 SL600 which is basically the same car. Mine only had 22,000 miles and a 2-owner Florida car without a spec of corrosion underneath. It was just driven to Michigan and then traded in for a AWD BMW. The BMW/Mercedes dealer I bought it from (Friends of mine) replaced the coil packs just my purchase as it had misfire codes.
I already bought BenzNinja's setup, although I haven't used it yet. It is a very impressive setup for the price. I also just bought the Foxwell NT510 as an easier-to-use scanner to keep in the car.
Since Michigan doesn't have inspections, I deleted the Cats and installed the Stage 2 tune from OE tuning. I also installed a new Head unit for Apple CarPlay; this required a crazy amount of disassembly of the inside area behind the seats as well as the console.
Based on your suggestions, I will look into the M275 intercooler upgrade; I had heard of that before. The suggestion about the delicate shifter mechanism was news to me.
Months before I bought the car, I started watching on the LegitStreetCars channel his progress, or lack of it, in fixing fixing various problems on his CL65 AMG. Since he was a Mercedes mechanic and has so many problems with the car, I concluded I would never buy one of these cars or engines. And yet, later I did, but only because it has so few miles, versus the 160K on his car.
After he finally figured out his problem with the ABC system (I don't want to spoil the suspense to those who might watch his videos), I may start replacing portions of it proactively. Currently my fluid is light-brown/green which isn't bad, but I will replace it anyway very soon.
These sure are fun cars, even in Michigan (when the roads are clean).
The only "must do right away" is to closely inspect all ABC lines and components for any signs of leaks. Especially pay attention to all rubber hose sections - they'll often start to "sweat" ABC fluid before they completely fail. A blown ABC line can leave the car sitting so low that it cannot be driven without damaging the car, and also so low that even getting it onto a tow truck will be a problem.
Regarding that blown line. I just have replaced both front lines. The left one blew up (fortunately in my driveway), so the left front corner was as low as it could be. I have a 20" wheels, but tire did not scrape against any of the body parts. I was able to get the car in the garage without any problems.
Regarding that blown line. I just have replaced both front lines. The left one blew up (fortunately in my driveway), so the left front corner was as low as it could be. I have a 20" wheels, but tire did not scrape against any of the body parts. I was able to get the car in the garage without any problems.
Did you have to steer your front wheels much? I know on my own car, I had a front fender lip get bent out just a bit when I drove a few miles home in a low state. My wheels/tires are stock sizes. The damage was minor, easily repairable, but still a couple hundred dollars at a shop.
Yes when it’s down driving straight isn’t an issue, turning is. And if the lower forward control arm bushings are worn in any way, it exacerbates the issue.
Only one fender on my car was damaged , but the front end components were absolutely shot at 107,000 miles. I would guess these components needed attention at 80,000 or so miles. The upper ball joints had 1/8” play and the lower control arm bushings were totally torn. Maybe a fresh suspension would fare better.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
