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Back to this debate: Pentosin CHF S11 v. Febi 02615(0009899103)
Relative newbie here (owned r230 2004 SL500) for one year. Need to do a hydraulic suspension flush.
This Febi product is saying it it fine for a substitute for Pentosin CHF 11S, Pintosin 202 or original MB 000989910310. Is this true? Has anyone done it? I know the power steering require the same fluid and I am aware that the power top requires something entirely different.
I am asking because this Febi 02615(0009899103) is 10 bucks a liter v. $25ish for the 11S.
The short answer is that this fluid should not be used as a substitute for CHF 11S in a ABC system.
The longer answer:
-Febi ZH-M 02615 is the fluid used for MB's ADS system, which is the predecessor to ABC. Similar concept, but a different system, which is where I suspect the confusion in that parts site is coming from.
-Febi ZH-M 02615 also has a use case for the R230, but specifically for the retractable roof.
It meets MB's 343.0 spec, which is different from the 345.0 spec needed for ABC systems.
For the R230, however, it was never the spec for the fluid used in the ABC system.
MB includes hydraulic suspensions as a general category of use cases for 343.0 because it is still the current spec for the ADS suspension in the R129, W140, etc.
Per the factory, there is no backwards / cross compatibility, so:
-Any MB w/ ABC: 345.0 Only
-Any MB w/ ADS: 343.0 Only
I have no experience with AT-205, but a product called Full Throttle has a bit of a track record on here as a safe and effective seal conditioner for hydraulic fluids.
Used it on my W220 and it resolved some "sagging while sitting" I experienced on that car.
I am having to flush and replace the ABC fluid as the hoses to that system (the ones under the radiator) all got mangled. Any suggestions on how that iCarSoft MB II can help in that area? I have read many places that the temp and pressure of the "Rodeo Procedure" might be too much on this older system. One well posted and admired person here suggest just constantly raising and lowering the car during the flushing/adding procedure. Comments?
Personally I agree with them that if there is a weakness and pending failure in the ABC, it is better to have it during a Rodeo in your garage than having a failure out on the road. That doesn't mean you should perform a 5 minute rodeo, but a 30 second rodeo should circulate fluid well enough to drive the car and give you some confidence that the system is in good shape.
Follow up on the flush and fill of the ABC system. Great results.
I did get the proper Pentosin fluid and had all ready to go before starting the process. It was easy to fill without the reservoir running out of fluid. I drained the reservoir with a fluid extractor and filled with about 1.5 liters of new fluid. My oldest brother then cranked the engine and I added about about another liter as the level slowly went down. I had pre-mixed 2 liters with the seal conditioner AT-205 as many suggested. I added a liter of that mixture an then went back to the pure Pentosin for about a liter more. Then back to the AT-205 mixture for the final liter. The pumped out fluid ran clear slightly before the 1/2 way point of this process. Remember the damage and breaking of the hoses/pipes under the front of the engine/radiator had allowed the pump to pump out almost all of the fluid.
I did have my brother cycle thru the 3 height levels at about 20-30 sec intervals during the filling process. Finally I topped off the fluid and ran the car to cycle thru the 3 height levels. A couple of corners did "buck" once or twice and then settled down. (I wonder is this is just some air that was not cycled out yet as I did have to go back an add more to the reservoir.
Everything was tight and working 24 hours later with no leaks.
Thanks for all the comments and help from everybody.
Last edited by RCBr230; Jan 21, 2025 at 01:17 PM.
Reason: Clarification
Bleeder valves for the struts. But you shouldn't need to use them; the system is self-bleeding. Rodeo or drive the car and raise and lower it a few times then all the air is out of the system.
You should take all the pressure off the struts by letting the wheels hang, or crack the bleeders before working on the valve block or the rest of the system, to relieve fluid pressure. Ask me how I know that...
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You should take all the pressure off the struts by letting the wheels hang, or crack the bleeders before working on the valve block or the rest of the system, to relieve fluid pressure. Ask me how I know that...
Ha, its even more fun to open one when the engine is running. Resulted in a high pressure wide-cone spray which completely drenched me as I tightened it back up. I had a stubborn problem and hoped this would help, but it did not. As mentioned, the ABC system is self bleeding.
Quite simply the bleed valves are used when replacing components within that circuit. For bleed valves there’s one for each corner. If you have to takeoff or replace a shock or accumulator, lift the car and open the bleed valve and go from there. Same thing if you have to replace a section of pipe.
never ever open a bleed valve when the car is on when the pump is pumping because a 3000psi spray can really damage you by blinding you or ripping off skin.
I did get a brief buck again the following buck 2 days ago but very small. Yesterday I got a complete raising of the right rear (sort of like going over a speed bump at low speed). It stopped but then I got a warning that the car was too low and to stop. I took it home and then, after letting it sit over night, all they symptoms went away. Cranked fine and easily and smoothly ran thru all three level changes.
ok to use in the ABC system? It says it conforms to 345.0, but it's a fair bit cheaper than the Pentosin/Titan branded stuff (still not cheap cheap, mind!)
Relative newbie here (owned r230 2004 SL500) for one year. Need to do a hydraulic suspension flush.
This Febi product is saying it it fine for a substitute for Pentosin CHF 11S, Pintosin 202 or original MB 000989910310. Is this true? Has anyone done it? I know the power steering require the same fluid and I am aware that the power top requires something entirely different.
I am asking because this Febi 02615(0009899103) is 10 bucks a liter v. $25ish for the 11S.
Since the ABC system is so troublesome, difficult to diagnose problems and expensive to repair, I just don't understand any reason to save $4/quart on any fluid other than the universally recommended Pentosin CHF S11.
I notice that FCP Euro sells Febi 06161, but only includes it with PS repair kits. ABC repair kits include either Pentosin CHF S11 or Titan CHF S11.
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