SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: overZealous1's build thread
O...Z...you are my hero for doing this on your own! It makes your build epic!
what is amazing even me, is the fact i am doing all this stuff in a 3 car garage. sounds like enough room, but look at the pic. hahaa. i really only have enough room for just one stall. i have already almost maxed out all available storage space. my body panels i took off are now residing in a spare room that was empty. my chopper is displayed in my entranceway to make more room in the garage. lol. i need a big shop again!
crappy pic but you get the idea.
I have only "hang" on the parts and have not assembly/adjust them together.
The fender is bolted on at the "frame". I have test and push them together and I know they fit pretty well.
I have not decide yet if I'm gone bolt this parts or glue them together...
But al the lines and parts looks like this.
The hood is only with two bolts and it's to much up but it's easy to adjust it to the right level vs fender.
When I have adjust everything I'm gone take more pictures.
What do you think?
Juha
here is some of mine-
look at reveal around all of light. this is after over an hour of grinder work!! light is recessed at bottom, yet high at top. no easy fix.

note how bumper and fender come together. this is better than how the drivers side started out. again, this is after alot of time grinding. atleast the headlight is fitting mostly correct and a quick fix.

here is drivers side after lots of work. i am filling in the fender detail, i think smooth will look better. i am needing to fill in the area all around light with bondo. may even need to mount light in a non-stock fashion to have correct reveal to bumper on bottom.
i bolted it together, ground out high spots, then bondoed the whole intersection. with each layer of bondo, you take a razor blade and cut in the panel joint once bondo has gelled. lots of work, but i am now energized again that with the effort i can make it look perfect.
i am staying positive though. you are right, if i was paying someone to do it, i would be mad as hell. i am about 18 hours into it so far and not even close to seeing light at the end of the tunnel. luckily body filler is cheap, my labor is free, and this hobby is sort of a relaxation time for me from my job where **** really can go to hell quick! haha. i look at it as a sort of continuing education in body work.
i will call misha tomorrow though and atleast make sure he is aware of the troubles. i have closely inspected others pics, and seen areas that didn't fit exact. mine just seems to be a very exaggerated case.
everyone has seen the pics of a misha kit going on, but, i tell ya it is alot more impressive to see it in person on your car!
i am redoing the wing to sit about 3" up off the deck lid. this pic kind of shows the idea. didn't do much today, just set it on the wheel dollies, but had to post pic anyways!!

Great work so far, you're a motivated SOB!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
i have been in contact with misha and they are trying to get me in contact with the actual guys who are building from the molds. mostly just letting them know what is going on with what they are putting out the door. sounds as though it is an isolated incident, but i am probably the first to install the kit with the holiday special build run i assume. i know they were backed up with some orders, so maybe something as simple as pulled to quick from the molds, packaged up, and they set weird in the box during shipment.
pretty brutal work week so far but managed to get rear bumper on and cut drivers fender for the flare today. here i thought i would have all the panels swapped out in a day! ha! only half day tomorrow and saturday and sunday open for car stuff. hopefully good progress will be made. i have an estimate of 150 hours from this point to get to my liking before paint. not that the kit is that bad at all, but to try and make it appear as oem body panels with same thickness and reveals is very time consumming. it is one of those things, like if you have a small rock chip in front bumper that nobody else notices or cares, but bugs the hell out of you. if i don't get it perfect before paint, those little details will always stand out.

pretty brutal work week so far but managed to get rear bumper on and cut drivers fender for the flare today. here i thought i would have all the panels swapped out in a day! ha! only half day tomorrow and saturday and sunday open for car stuff. hopefully good progress will be made. i have an estimate of 150 hours from this point to get to my liking before paint. not that the kit is that bad at all, but to try and make it appear as oem body panels with same thickness and reveals is very time consumming. it is one of those things, like if you have a small rock chip in front bumper that nobody else notices or cares, but bugs the hell out of you. if i don't get it perfect before paint, those little details will always stand out.


. Can't work at al if it dirty.I have al parts at the car except the rear fender parts. I'm gone let the paint shop do it..... (I have no welding machine). I have cut the "air let holes" at the front fenders also.....

Your project looks great.....

BTW.... have you measure how much wider your car is going to be at the rear..? I have measure it and my car is going to be 67mm = 2,63" each side wider.
Juha
Last edited by Ekselent; Jan 11, 2013 at 05:16 AM.




Maybe I missed this earlier, but what color will you be painting it (since you'll have to repaint the majority of the car anyways). Have you thought about having a little fun and doing something different? Metallic orange seems to be killer:
http://luxuryvice.com/blog/2009/07/2...shot-overload/
Maybe I missed this earlier, but what color will you be painting it (since you'll have to repaint the majority of the car anyways). Have you thought about having a little fun and doing something different? Metallic orange seems to be killer:
http://luxuryvice.com/blog/2009/07/2...shot-overload/
that looks pretty awesome. i am seriously leaning towards the new ford grabber blue. pretty sure i am doing the roof black (or atleast the center to blend in the pano roof) and black wheels with blacked out lights and other stuff. i like the idea of no metallics or pearls and just straight pigment on this car incase i need to touch it up in the future.
. Can't work at al if it dirty.I have al parts at the car except the rear fender parts. I'm gone let the paint shop do it..... (I have no welding machine). I have cut the "air let holes" at the front fenders also.....

Your project looks great.....

BTW.... have you measure how much wider your car is going to be at the rear..? I have measure it and my car is going to be 67mm = 2,63" each side wider.
Juha




https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ue-c63-bs.html
If you do the roof black, you may want to consider doing the windshield frame/ A pillar area as well. Sort of mimics the idea that the latest Ferraris and Lamborghinis have if you do the bi colore options.
http://www.gtspirit.com/wp-content/u...458_italia.jpg
http://www.thetorquereport.com/Lambo...4_Bicolore.jpg
Can't wait to see the finished product!
You certainly can't go wrong with a solid pigmented color as that can be really sharp as well. Another cool choice may be turquoise made famous by the LP670-SV and CCX in London.
http://www.shmeemobiles.co.uk/files/...ds/012/012.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_VIvDEx3B93..._6024782_n.jpg
Way to go .... gonna be very brutal you new car! and again the effort you put into it ..... you burn for this ....... just remember to enjoy your build - I know I do
)
40-45 rwhp & rwtq LESS (yes dyno proof, & why I'm switching to much smaller/lighter CCW'S)Adding 375's outback is just adding insult to injury.. The effects are even MORE noticeable on SL55's as they have 100 LESS rwtq & about 30-40 less rwhp stock vs stock, forget factory ratings I've seen umpteen 600/55 stock & modded Dyno's & I've driven both SL55 & SL600 before & after huge wheels w/widebody kits.
These huge 3-piece 20x13's weigh anywhere between 40-45 lbs ea add 35-40 lb 345-375 tire then add the 20x10 front wheels/tires & it just gets worse you'll soon see what I'm talking about if you go this route.. (Rotational mass murders perf, I never thought it'd be this much though) Now as far as looks go by ALL means they look stellar
but @ what point are you willing to suffer so much performance LOSS for beauty?If I'd known this before adding these Tonka wheels I'd of done it much differently (though the look is perfection, & I'll keep them for car meets/shows or occassional summer cruising) Was tempted to sell them to spring for the over priced lightweight HRE's but CCW's are slightly lighter & HALF the price + I can have both looks & switch whenever I want..
Just trying to impart my & (3) other Widebody kit owners experience who added these giant wheels etc (2) of the (3) other owners dumped the 20x13's etc & went to 19x11 or 20x11 rears & 19x8.5 or 20x8.5 fronts..
Edit: just looked it up 345/25/20 tires weigh 35-36 lbs ea 375's 39-40 lbs each.
Last edited by Thericker; Jan 13, 2013 at 06:42 PM.
i do have a set of 20x10 and 20x13 on piece forged adv wheels though. they are about as light as they get. heck, they are probably lighter than my current set up. going to wait till car is mostly together and pull it outside and set them up next to it.
either way i go, the wheel spacers are $400 for a set of 4 in the bp and size i need.
either way if you use spacers or have wheels custom built, your scrub radius will be retarded and the car will feel different. only way to get rid of that is longer control arms, which then will probably need the mounting points moved to bring geometry back into correct.
it can be used directly on a painted surface roughed up with 60-80 grit. this particular one is kind of a slow set, but a heat gun speeds it right up.

run a bead liberally on all the mounting flanges and contact areas, then whatever squeezes out, you run your finger along it. i try to make sure the adhesive fills the seam and that i feather edge it to the body and the part. this way the seam spans onto both parts further lessening any chance of a separation or stress crack. do a final smoothing over seam with a lightweight filler.
got headlights working, but, the high beams do not seem to work. i didn't try with ignition on though. maybe it needs to be on.




