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Door Handle Replacement DIY

 
Old 07-13-2012, 01:03 PM
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16 E63 Wagon
Just did this.. Thanks for the write up.. Very easy install!!
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:15 PM
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just an update, after i paid almost $700 at the dealer to fix the issue, my handles stopped working again a day later. i took it back to the dealer and they said it was the module on the chassis that was malfunctioning and thats why it stopped working again. they tried to get me to pay another $700 just for that module, but i wouldn't hear it. they replaced the handles which weren't the issue which i paid for and now its was a different problem!!! they did it under warrantee in the end. but just so you know if your handles don't work its not necessarily the handles it might be the module.
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Old 07-13-2012, 04:03 PM
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So none of your handles worked at all? Or just your driver didn't work..

If none work i think that tells you there is a problem then just the handle..
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:20 PM
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it was just the driver door and rear driver side door.
the others worked fine.
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:39 PM
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Hi guys wonderful write up but iam little confuse my driver side door does not lock with the pust of the button on the hand ian currently locking it with the rear door. But it open. Due I replace the handle only? the stealership parts dept quote me $257 dollars for the part only WTF!
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Old 07-14-2012, 08:15 PM
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thanks again guys easy to remove the handle(front door) but i wanted to swap my handle from the rear door but i can not find the torx screw to loosen/remove the handle do i have to remove the rear door panel in order to reach the screw instead of the weather strip?
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:04 PM
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Great write-up/thread

Thanks for the great write-up and all of the recommendations throughout the thread! Both handles on the passenger side work and neither on the driver side work - probably based on usage. Anyway, I wanted to remove my driver side handle before purchasing a replacement just to try the procedure and to make sure a plug/un-plug on the connectors didn't fix things. Unfortunately, it did not, but now I am good to go to get a replacement and make the repair.

However, while most of the process went quick and flawlessly, I struggled for some time reinserting the handle portion. I'm sure part of the problem was that I didn't have enough lighting, but each time I tried to reinsert and push forward, the handle wasn't snug and secure and the portion nearest the lock assy wouldn't go in flush where it should - it stuck out a bit. I'm not sure how I finally got it in properly, but I think I was trying to "hook" the brass bar naturally with the "L" on the rear portion of the handle and finally used a small screwdriver to hold the brass bar toward the outside of the door while inserting the handle and moving forward.

Anyway, I got it, but am not 100% comfortable that I undertand exactly the "trick" to this. Any ideas or methods would be very appreciated!

Also, if you have the same issue, be patient and keep working on it as you will get it!
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Old 08-14-2012, 12:07 AM
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2008 E63, KTM990, 2012 CLS63, 1972 W108 280SE 4.5
thank you OP for the information.

It seems many of us have the problem. Mine went off a. Couple of days ago, it's been raining like crazy down here.

I'll try to take it off and spray some dielectric contact cleaner to see if that helps...
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:27 PM
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Update

Ordered a new handle, installed, and works perfectly! Note that, from my previous post, I do believe that you need to use a very thin small screwdriver or other tool to pull the brass bar forward as you install the handle to get it to completely seat properly.
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:34 PM
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After a week or so, the handle now does not retract completely. It is fully operational, unlocks the door, opens it, etc., but I have to "push it in" to make the handle flush where it should be even with the lock portion of the handle. Any ideas would be VERY APPRECIATED!
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Old 11-05-2012, 03:12 PM
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Bumping this thread to add a question for anyone who might know....

I looked up my original repair for this issue and found the following part numbers:

211 760 11 70 9040 <- Drivers door, Paint code "040" Black
211 760 13 70 9040 <- Left rear door, Paint code "040" Black

Seems weird that there are two different part numbers for the front and rear handles on the same side of the car? From the previous posts here it seems like people have had success swapping a rear handle to the front door.

At first, I thought it was due to the drivers door having a keyhole but that portion of the handle doesn't get replaced during this swap anyway...


BTW -> oediscountparts.com currently has this handle at $153.00


-G
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GregMB View Post
Bumping this thread to add a question for anyone who might know....

I looked up my original repair for this issue and found the following part numbers:

211 760 11 70 9040 <- Drivers door, Paint code "040" Black
211 760 13 70 9040 <- Left rear door, Paint code "040" Black

Seems weird that there are two different part numbers for the front and rear handles on the same side of the car? From the previous posts here it seems like people have had success swapping a rear handle to the front door.

At first, I thought it was due to the drivers door having a keyhole but that portion of the handle doesn't get replaced during this swap anyway...


BTW -> oediscountparts.com currently has this handle at $153.00


-G
I can't remember which of the two part numbers I ordered, but this is what my order status said from when I purchased it:

Collision Catalog - 2006 - Mercedes-Benz - E55 AMG
body hardware, front door, lock & hardware, handle, outside w/keyless, obsidian blck Left

Swapped right in, 10 minutes, everything works perfectly.
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:17 PM
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The final 4 digits are for the paint code, so your part number would certainly be different there....

Did your part come in a Mercedes package (with label) like SterlingE55's did further up in this thread?

Glad to hear the swap was easy... I just had this repair done under warranty last summer and the handle already failed again. I'd keep bringing it to the dealer but it's over an hour away, and the deductible on my warranty is $100. If I wasn't so spoiled by the Keyless-Go stuff I'd just give up on these stupid handles for good...


-G
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by GregMB View Post
The final 4 digits are for the paint code, so your part number would certainly be different there....

Did your part come in a Mercedes package (with label) like SterlingE55's did further up in this thread?

Glad to hear the swap was easy... I just had this repair done under warranty last summer and the handle already failed again. I'd keep bringing it to the dealer but it's over an hour away, and the deductible on my warranty is $100. If I wasn't so spoiled by the Keyless-Go stuff I'd just give up on these stupid handles for good...


-G
My car is paint code 040 was well, and my handle did come in official Mercedes package with label. Just not sure where it is now lol, but fixing this without warranty isn't much of a problem. You can do it right in your drive way and be done with it for $53 more than your deductible.. rather than taking your car in, getting a loaner, etc.
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Old 11-06-2012, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by efiftyfizzle View Post
My car is paint code 040 was well, and my handle did come in official Mercedes package with label. Just not sure where it is now lol, but fixing this without warranty isn't much of a problem. You can do it right in your drive way and be done with it for $53 more than your deductible.. rather than taking your car in, getting a loaner, etc.
Yep.

I ordered the part yesterday, so I'll give it a shot in the driveway in the next few days.

Interesting factoid: Today was the first morning below freezing around here, and both buttons on the drivers door handle were completely solid.... no movement on either the "lock" or "unlock" switches, like they are completely filled with water and frozen stiff.

When the new part arrives, I will definitely take a closer look to see if there is any opportunity to seal the handle from water to keep it from getting soaked again... dielectric grease will help on the connectors coming from the door, but there might be a way to protect the microswitches in the handle itself.


-G
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by GregMB View Post
Yep.

I ordered the part yesterday, so I'll give it a shot in the driveway in the next few days.

Interesting factoid: Today was the first morning below freezing around here, and both buttons on the drivers door handle were completely solid.... no movement on either the "lock" or "unlock" switches, like they are completely filled with water and frozen stiff.

When the new part arrives, I will definitely take a closer look to see if there is any opportunity to seal the handle from water to keep it from getting soaked again... dielectric grease will help on the connectors coming from the door, but there might be a way to protect the microswitches in the handle itself.


-G
Yeah, there was a guy who said he was trying to figure out exactly what was causing these to stop working... I think after a while the internals just become corroded. We just went through a hurricane over here and many other heavy rain storms and my handles work fine so I don't think it's just water getting in there.
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:09 AM
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I replaced mine and still didn't work
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Old 11-06-2012, 10:56 PM
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I replaced my driver door handle thanks to this DIY. I took apart the old handle to see how it's wired. There is a thin ribbon cable that runs from the connector in front of handle back to the thumb switch that locks the car and underneath switch that opens the car. Ribbon cable was dammaged and one of the lead wires was broke. There was green oxidation present. No way to salvadge the handle. The ribbon cable is covered with black potting compound to make it waterproof but eventually in my case water did get in.
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Old 11-07-2012, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DougZ View Post
I replaced my driver door handle thanks to this DIY. I took apart the old handle to see how it's wired. There is a thin ribbon cable that runs from the connector in front of handle back to the thumb switch that locks the car and underneath switch that opens the car. Ribbon cable was dammaged and one of the lead wires was broke. There was green oxidation present. No way to salvadge the handle. The ribbon cable is covered with black potting compound to make it waterproof but eventually in my case water did get in.
How'd you take it apart and can you put it back together once it is apart? Could you take some pics please?
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Old 11-07-2012, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by efiftyfizzle View Post
How'd you take it apart and can you put it back together once it is apart? Could you take some pics please?
I tried very carefully to seperate the chrome part from the painted part of the handle. Since both parts are plastic they vere snapped together but very tight. Due to all the potting inside I coudn't get the parts to seperate cleanly. I ended up deforming parts. I don't think there is a good way to seperate the parts. I don't have any photos.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bla55ir View Post
The driver door has the keyhole, the rear doesn't.
The handle itself doesn't have the keyhole. The keyhole is to the right of the handle (on drivers side) and doesn't get replaced in this process.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by efiftyfizzle View Post
The handle itself doesn't have the keyhole. The keyhole is to the right of the handle (on drivers side) and doesn't get replaced in this process.
Spammers don't care about your answers!!!


-G
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:26 AM
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Update:

Yesterday was a nice weather day, so I spent a couple minutes (literally) swapping out my drivers door handle.

Taped the torx driver to the door as suggested to avoid losing the screw inside the door. The rest of the swap was super easy.... Definitely worth trying yourself to save a few bucks.

Thanks to the OP for posting the procedure. I wouldn't have tried it otherwise.

-G
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:02 PM
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Connector

Does the connector need to be access from inside the door via panel removal?

I can get the handle out but the connector seems to be out of reach.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Fitbenz View Post
Does the connector need to be access from inside the door via panel removal?

I can get the handle out but the connector seems to be out of reach.
You can disconnect it from outside... use some needle nose pliers, but carefully to make sure you don't break any of the clips.
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