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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
My E55 DIY Coilover install With Step by step
#76
MBWorld Fanatic!
I just installed the BC coilovers, and adjustment is anything but easy!!!
Even the front is a b***h, the rear?? forget about it. Height adjustment is made on the spring and makes it almost impossible to adjust the height without removing one bolt on the rear control arms, dropping the rear exhaust then removing the spring and adjusting it out of the car. Unless I am missing something here but if easy mean all day to adjust the height, then yeah it might be
Even the front is a b***h, the rear?? forget about it. Height adjustment is made on the spring and makes it almost impossible to adjust the height without removing one bolt on the rear control arms, dropping the rear exhaust then removing the spring and adjusting it out of the car. Unless I am missing something here but if easy mean all day to adjust the height, then yeah it might be
#78
So far the adjustment troubles makes me hesitant in recommending them for the E55 platform
#79
Edit: I just realized I did not answer your question. I also just want stock height for the car with this setup. It is definitely capable of stock ride height and higher or lower. But the adjustments to get there is the *****. I will say based on my experiences and learning this system on this platform from scratch:
Front is 3 full turns to get 1/4" or 0.25" rise or drop
Rear is 1 full turn to get 1/4" or 0.25" rise or drop
Stock height is on average 26.5" on the front
And 26" even on the rear
(from ground through center of rim to fender edge on both)
On the rear you should have them set in the middle of the sleeve (height adjustment is made on the spring sleeve) to be somewhere near stock height before you install
On the front...not sure where you should start from but based on the pics from OP, you should give it another 20 turns on each side to raise it to stock height (from where it was set from factory)
Front is 3 full turns to get 1/4" or 0.25" rise or drop
Rear is 1 full turn to get 1/4" or 0.25" rise or drop
Stock height is on average 26.5" on the front
And 26" even on the rear
(from ground through center of rim to fender edge on both)
On the rear you should have them set in the middle of the sleeve (height adjustment is made on the spring sleeve) to be somewhere near stock height before you install
On the front...not sure where you should start from but based on the pics from OP, you should give it another 20 turns on each side to raise it to stock height (from where it was set from factory)
Last edited by kponti; 03-04-2014 at 10:10 AM.
#80
Sorry let me add to my above post and even correct some of it. It is damn near impossible to adjust the rear height while the spring is still mounted on the car. You could in theory lower the car, but raising it? Forget about it. So for ease of use, I would rate it at a 1 out of 10 for the rear.
My advice to aanyone who buys Bc and does not want to slam their cars to the ground.... Set the rear spring at about 4 to 6 turns from full extention. That would put you near stock height. I was wrong in my above post. This kit does not go much further than stock height maybe about half and inch above stock on full extension.
My advice to aanyone who buys Bc and does not want to slam their cars to the ground.... Set the rear spring at about 4 to 6 turns from full extention. That would put you near stock height. I was wrong in my above post. This kit does not go much further than stock height maybe about half and inch above stock on full extension.
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PNW_E63_AMG (01-29-2024)
#81
Out Of Control!!
Last week I actually started talking to ISC suspension in NH to get something for the W211 built. Customer service is amazing and they'll do custom spring rates if you want them. I'll work with them to set up an OEM like set up for us
#83
Senior Member
If the MB Arts rear links are already in place is there any other parts needed? I think I am close to this project
Ok, re-read the part I needed. The lower control arm provides the spring cup. Understood. Is that the only E320 part we need or do we need the full kit? (Thrust arm, Upper Control Arm , Track arm)?
Thanks!!
Really great install write up, but I still cant tell what else is needed.
The control arms on the site you referenced are $150 ea, plus all the other upper and lower arms come to about $700.. You stated you got the control arms (both) for $150. This makes me think I don't know what the F I am looking for.
It looks like a lot of people have done this kit in the last year. Does anyone want to post up the part numbers needed to install.
Ok, re-read the part I needed. The lower control arm provides the spring cup. Understood. Is that the only E320 part we need or do we need the full kit? (Thrust arm, Upper Control Arm , Track arm)?
Thanks!!
Really great install write up, but I still cant tell what else is needed.
The control arms on the site you referenced are $150 ea, plus all the other upper and lower arms come to about $700.. You stated you got the control arms (both) for $150. This makes me think I don't know what the F I am looking for.
It looks like a lot of people have done this kit in the last year. Does anyone want to post up the part numbers needed to install.
#84
MBWorld Fanatic!
The part number shows 2113501806 But, this part says: Left side. When I search for right side I get no results. Am I correct to assume same part fits both sides? This is the way it looks in the other DIY thread, but want to make sure before I order. Thanks!!!!
#85
Senior Member
The part number shows 2113501806 But, this part says: Left side. When I search for right side I get no results. Am I correct to assume same part fits both sides? This is the way it looks in the other DIY thread, but want to make sure before I order. Thanks!!!!
Amazon.com: OES Genuine Suspension Control Arm: Automotive
Amazon.com: OES Genuine Suspension Control Arm: Automotive
#87
MBWorld Fanatic!
OUT OF STOCK... This is the message I get 3 days after placing my order and paid. Same ****ing ****, different company. As of right now, my recommendation is:
DON'T BUY BC RACING anything... Companies need to learn what customer service is. The way this happens: The ones that dont go out of business when we stop buying **** from them.
Don't advertise **** you don't have to sell
Today business methodology: Over-commit, under-deliver
DON'T BUY BC RACING anything... Companies need to learn what customer service is. The way this happens: The ones that dont go out of business when we stop buying **** from them.
Don't advertise **** you don't have to sell
Today business methodology: Over-commit, under-deliver
#90
Member
I had a slow leak in my Driver's rear and now I lost the left front. It's 2K to get Arnott stuff and even though it has a "lifetime warranty" that doesn't cover R&R of a failed component. The local shop said that they have had some defective ones. I am leaning coilovers as I was running my car in low mode with 19's and I don't want to go back to stock height with the Arnott conversion kit.
Two questions -
1) It's been roughly 18 mos since this thread started. Can the original poster comment on the status of his setup? Have the BC products held up? Still recommended?
2) Alternatives? I am looking for near-stock ride feel. I have a track car and I don't need to pretend on the street. I prefer the comfort of the airmatic ride and would like to stay near that. The original post indicated full soft was a pretty good ride with compression soft but more rebound. While I know what that does on a race car, how is more "rebound" felt in terms of ride quality?
OK, 3rd question -
3) Everything i read said that you have to drop the whole rear end ot change the rear bags. Seems that if you can make the swap by dropping the rear control arms for the conversion that you could also do that with a bag swapout. I am still leaning towards spring vs new bags but just in case, would like to hear opinions as that it a lot less labor.
Two questions -
1) It's been roughly 18 mos since this thread started. Can the original poster comment on the status of his setup? Have the BC products held up? Still recommended?
2) Alternatives? I am looking for near-stock ride feel. I have a track car and I don't need to pretend on the street. I prefer the comfort of the airmatic ride and would like to stay near that. The original post indicated full soft was a pretty good ride with compression soft but more rebound. While I know what that does on a race car, how is more "rebound" felt in terms of ride quality?
OK, 3rd question -
3) Everything i read said that you have to drop the whole rear end ot change the rear bags. Seems that if you can make the swap by dropping the rear control arms for the conversion that you could also do that with a bag swapout. I am still leaning towards spring vs new bags but just in case, would like to hear opinions as that it a lot less labor.
#91
MBWorld Fanatic!
I had a slow leak in my Driver's rear and now I lost the left front. It's 2K to get Arnott stuff and even though it has a "lifetime warranty" that doesn't cover R&R of a failed component. The local shop said that they have had some defective ones. I am leaning coilovers as I was running my car in low mode with 19's and I don't want to go back to stock height with the Arnott conversion kit.
Two questions -
1) It's been roughly 18 mos since this thread started. Can the original poster comment on the status of his setup? Have the BC products held up? Still recommended?
2) Alternatives? I am looking for near-stock ride feel. I have a track car and I don't need to pretend on the street. I prefer the comfort of the airmatic ride and would like to stay near that. The original post indicated full soft was a pretty good ride with compression soft but more rebound. While I know what that does on a race car, how is more "rebound" felt in terms of ride quality?
OK, 3rd question -
3) Everything i read said that you have to drop the whole rear end ot change the rear bags. Seems that if you can make the swap by dropping the rear control arms for the conversion that you could also do that with a bag swapout. I am still leaning towards spring vs new bags but just in case, would like to hear opinions as that it a lot less labor.
Two questions -
1) It's been roughly 18 mos since this thread started. Can the original poster comment on the status of his setup? Have the BC products held up? Still recommended?
2) Alternatives? I am looking for near-stock ride feel. I have a track car and I don't need to pretend on the street. I prefer the comfort of the airmatic ride and would like to stay near that. The original post indicated full soft was a pretty good ride with compression soft but more rebound. While I know what that does on a race car, how is more "rebound" felt in terms of ride quality?
OK, 3rd question -
3) Everything i read said that you have to drop the whole rear end ot change the rear bags. Seems that if you can make the swap by dropping the rear control arms for the conversion that you could also do that with a bag swapout. I am still leaning towards spring vs new bags but just in case, would like to hear opinions as that it a lot less labor.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...t-options.html
https://www.arnottindustries.com/par...4_gid1163.html
#92
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
Well I just had mine installed at my local indy. Too freaking high in the rear Two fingers between tire and fender in the front but the rear is about three fingers. Definitely higher than stock height. Not sure I want to try and adjust them myself after hearing what a PITA it is. I think my rear needs to drop about an inch. Doesnt look good. Almost like when you hit the raise button.
As far as ride it is very good. I put mine all the way soft for now. Takes bumps very much like stock IMO. Not a bumpy ride by any means anyway. Hit a hard turn and it stays much flatter. So far I like them. Will take some twisty mountain roads tomorrow and post a more detailed review.
As far as ride it is very good. I put mine all the way soft for now. Takes bumps very much like stock IMO. Not a bumpy ride by any means anyway. Hit a hard turn and it stays much flatter. So far I like them. Will take some twisty mountain roads tomorrow and post a more detailed review.
#93
Member
I cannot seem to get an answer in this thread or mine (Airmatic Service Time) about how to properly disable the computer from warning about the airmatic system being disabled.
There was something in this thread about pulling a fuse, another person who recently did the conversion said that didn't work for him and no one else (from the 4-5 posters who admit doing the conversion) has answered and I've asked numerous times. Is that because it's a downside and nobody wants to mention it? My car is getting towed to the shop tomorrow AM for the conversion and it's the last loose end that I cannot seem to tie up.
Thoughts? Help? Please?
Thanks
There was something in this thread about pulling a fuse, another person who recently did the conversion said that didn't work for him and no one else (from the 4-5 posters who admit doing the conversion) has answered and I've asked numerous times. Is that because it's a downside and nobody wants to mention it? My car is getting towed to the shop tomorrow AM for the conversion and it's the last loose end that I cannot seem to tie up.
Thoughts? Help? Please?
Thanks
#94
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2003
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bone stock E55 AMG
mine was properly disabled at the shop...
thus, i can't tell u "how to" disable airmatic properly...
thus, i can't tell u "how to" disable airmatic properly...
I cannot seem to get an answer in this thread or mine (Airmatic Service Time) about how to properly disable the computer from warning about the airmatic system being disabled.
There was something in this thread about pulling a fuse, another person who recently did the conversion said that didn't work for him and no one else (from the 4-5 posters who admit doing the conversion) has answered and I've asked numerous times. Is that because it's a downside and nobody wants to mention it? My car is getting towed to the shop tomorrow AM for the conversion and it's the last loose end that I cannot seem to tie up.
Thoughts? Help? Please?
Thanks
There was something in this thread about pulling a fuse, another person who recently did the conversion said that didn't work for him and no one else (from the 4-5 posters who admit doing the conversion) has answered and I've asked numerous times. Is that because it's a downside and nobody wants to mention it? My car is getting towed to the shop tomorrow AM for the conversion and it's the last loose end that I cannot seem to tie up.
Thoughts? Help? Please?
Thanks
#96
MBWorld Fanatic!
Well I just had mine installed at my local indy. Too freaking high in the rear Two fingers between tire and fender in the front but the rear is about three fingers. Definitely higher than stock height. Not sure I want to try and adjust them myself after hearing what a PITA it is. I think my rear needs to drop about an inch. Doesnt look good. Almost like when you hit the raise button.
As far as ride it is very good. I put mine all the way soft for now. Takes bumps very much like stock IMO. Not a bumpy ride by any means anyway. Hit a hard turn and it stays much flatter. So far I like them. Will take some twisty mountain roads tomorrow and post a more detailed review.
As far as ride it is very good. I put mine all the way soft for now. Takes bumps very much like stock IMO. Not a bumpy ride by any means anyway. Hit a hard turn and it stays much flatter. So far I like them. Will take some twisty mountain roads tomorrow and post a more detailed review.
It seems the major drawback for the BC's Is what a PIA it is to set the level.
#97
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2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
Well the fronts are super easy to adjust. Dont even need to remove the wheels. Rear passenger side is the only one that sucks. On a lift wheel removed you need to use two different sized wrenches and its a PAIN. once it gets loose enough it is much easier and faster to use a screw driver and hammer tapping it to adjust. The other three are very easy to do. Someone in this thread or another said to leave the rears only a few turns from full extension to get stock ride height. They were very wrong ! That leaves it 1.5 inches too high. Took me 2-3 hours to adjust then drive a few times to get the height I wanted on all four corners. I am at 25.5 inches ride height. Seems perfect. They did settle after a couple days almost a 1/4 inch too.
Last edited by dllhg; 07-19-2015 at 01:44 AM.
#99
Senior Member
i am just looking for some clarification on the rear lower control arms, do you use the existing bolts and hardware from the airmatic or do you need the LCA's and new bolts/bushings etc ? seems to be conflicting info -- but i am leaning this way when the time comes
#100
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2014 cls63 a amg. 2018 AMG GTR
I just gave the coilovers to my local indy and he tossed them in. All I bought was the coilovers and rear lower control arms.
FYI you NEED alignment ASAP after doing this. My rear was over 2 degrees or 2 inches Toe in After alignment it handled like a dream. Feels virtually stock to me but with less body roll and I have mine set to 20 clicks out of 32 firm. It will take me a while to not think about whether or not I can drive my car when I go out to the garage like before. It is such a huge relief to not have to worry about the airmatic failing anymore.