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Hey man....
Tes that is what is on there right now and it comes right off after a while so the prep work must be wrong or the coating is no good for the heat.
I haven’t had any experience with it other than what I’ve heard. I thought about having a set of stainless headers done hoping it might help with heat.
It could have been the prep work that’s causing the problem.
Since I get a lot of questions on things if you guys want I was thinking of doing a short video of the car starting with the interior stuff,gauges and data loggers since I am taking my time doing the engine.
Since I get a lot of questions on things If you guys want I was thinking of doing a short video of the car starting with the interior stuff,gauges and data loggers since I am taking my time doing the engine.
Not sure if anyone really follows these posts but I will keep going until you guys had enough lol
So I have found that since running higher spring pressure that the rocker arm shaft saddles are showing a little more wear than wanted so I opened the feed holes and chamfered the holes which I had done before but went a little more this time. I think a WPC treatment would really help but then I have to send cams to California for the process and don’t really want to do that this time of year and the chance of damage to the cams.
Also found that the piston rings could not handle the pressures and where really worn out so cleaning up the bores and going with Tool Steel Nitrite upper rings and Napier 2nd rings and they should hold up to far more pressure/abuse……..I hope !!
Block will be back to me on Monday.
Sir, please keep going lol I’m invested on my daily reading with your threads
[QUOTE=SICAMG;9066208]Ok I will !
So the bores where not that bad so that’s great. Pistons are getting coated in PC-9 from Swain Tech Coating,and really good anti friction coating, and will be a little thicker to keep piston a tad tighter in the piston bore.
With the Tool Steel rings I should be able to spray it harder and make more power in the end and not hurt anything again,not that it wasnt running perfect before but would soon start showing signs of oil burning Im sure. Bearings also look like they came right out of the box.
Just to recap the cylinder walls again. It was really bugging me as what I was looking at and had some smart guys help me out but no definitive answers.So here is my best shot. If you look at the picture on top,closets cylinder to you looking at it,you can see that there is a "good" spot on the wall. So the piston was stoping at the top, rocking in the bore,then proceeding down Which is crazy to think of it that way. The very top of the stroke is call the "dwell" time and is how long the piston sit's there at TDC. FYI- A longer connecting rod will give you more "dwell" and technically more power from the compression stroke.If there is to much clearance the piston will rock a little to much and at the same time the rings will move slightly in and out of the piston and the wear process begins from there.So the lower scratch's are from the skirt and the upper the rings and piston ring lands.One of my theorys was warm up time before I would kill on it but I always,or so I thought ,warmed it up well but I guess not enough who knows.
Since I get a lot of questions on things if you guys want I was thinking of doing a short video of the car starting with the interior stuff,gauges and data loggers since I am taking my time doing the engine.
This would be interesting as I haven’t data logged info before. I’ve got another project that I will need to do this also.
OK guys ,finally got this uploaded. Couldn't do it with my ipad for whatever reason so used my camera. and then load it on to You Tube.Not the best and should have done a few test runs to see about glare and stuff since I suck at it LOL but it works so hope this helps with information.
Query:
-I'm assuming two wideband O2 sensors, one each mounted in your mid-length headers prior to the clamp connecting to the catalytic convertors?
-Each individual exhaust header has its own thermocouple. Was it difficult to orient them to prevent interference with each other or motor mounts? The leads would be bundled on each side of the engine but what size hole and where did you have to make in the firewall to bring all of the leads through? Through the passenger side? Driver side?
-Does the AEM Failsafe system tie into the Motor Electronics via the OBD2 port?
I'm just trying to picture how all of this equipment is wired into a system as a whole. Thermocouples are a great tool to tune air/fuel mixtures and I found them to be very useful. Beats the hell out of the bad old days of carburated engines and having to pull and "read" the spark plugs.
Two wide bands yes but mounted down stream of the cats.My readings are slightly leaner after the cats.
Easy to do orientation of sensors, some are on top of the header pipe and some on the bottom of pipes and then the wires go through fire wall on left and right side.
The AEM is stand alone and has no connection to the ECU.It just taps into the supercharger wire connector to break the signal to it. Should have been more clear and explained all that.
So the heads are on and fermenting over night lol. I torque them 25,50,to 60lbs,let them sit for the night, then next day loosen each stud to 50lbs then go to the final 85 lbs on one continuous swing of the torque wrench with the garage temperatures at 70 degrees. This has worked for years on any engine I built with up to 25lbs of boost so I stick to it.
LOL yea that's how I roll !! There are so many steps to this engine with bolt tightening and sequence that you can get lost real easy. Just the rocker arms alone are crazy with the torque,90 degrees the bolt order that every one has to be marked each time or you will get lost in it. And since these are all torque to yield there is no do overs !!! Bolts are crazy money now for sure !
So the heads are on and fermenting over night lol. I torque them 25,50,to 60lbs,let them sit for the night, then next day loosen each stud to 50lbs then go to the final 85 lbs on one continuous swing of the torque wrench with the garage temperatures at 70 degrees. This has worked for years on any engine I built with up to 25lbs of boost so I stick to it.
see, now that you say that and it's been so long I can't remember specially doing it right back then but I can't even remember it at all other than in pics. So I have to trust I was thinking properly 7 years ago.
oli pressure gauge in place of the pressure sender for the interior dummy light. So at first start up I will know I have good pressure. Spun the engine over by installing and jumping the starter on the engine stand to prime the oil and it has 30 psi.
My belt wrap kit with an extra support and a 100 mm idler pulley. I also moved the idler up 1/2” to get the very most of wrap around the pulley. When I get the blower on you will see just how close the pulley is to the blower pulley.the bracket on the left off the cross brace gives it an extra anchor to keep things from moving.
Forgot to show this earlier. This is what the rod bearings looked liked after 5,000 miles of severe nitrous and rpm abuse….literally brand new ! Swain Tech coatings rock for sure !! Wish the cylinder walls looked the same LOL
oli pressure gauge in place of the pressure sender for the interior dummy light. So at first start up I will know I have good pressure. Spun the engine over by installing and jumping the starter on the engine stand to prime the oil and it has 30 psi.
Originally Posted by SICAMG
My belt wrap kit with an extra support and a 100 mm idler pulley. I also moved the idler up 1/2” to get the very most of wrap around the pulley. When I get the blower on you will see just how close the pulley is to the blower pulley.the bracket on the left off the cross brace gives it an extra anchor to keep things from moving.
So what is normal oil pressure for these engines?
Was adding the oil pressure gauge pretty straight forward with the fittings?
And would it be the same as running an aftermarket gauge inside and by pass the factory gauge?
Where did you get the 100mm pulley? And how does it help? Just taking up more belt slack?
No problem with questions.
Oil pressure is around 100 psi cold and 10-15 at idle. around 65-70 when hot at higher rpm but I will check again when this rebuild is fired up.
There is no gauge in these cars.
I added the fitting on the side of the filter housing like this to keep things out of the way and not sticking out, but they sell an aluminum oil filter cover that is tapped for 1/8 npt thread to install a gauge if you wanted so very easy to do and they are around $35.00
Pulley came from UPR and the purpose was to get the belt wrapped around the pulley as much as possible.If you look at traditional belt wrap kits the idler pulley is way to low and gives very little wrap.This way with it raised up and a larger pulley is much better.When the blower is back on I will get a picture to show you.
Could be as my wife looks at the car all apart in the garage and says "There's something wrong with you" LOL
Clearly there is something wrong with you! You have that certain screw that is loose.
Many appreciate it. Myself included. I only wish I had the spare money and time to devote to my sickness.
Eager to see how she goes. Many modifications done at once will make it tough to gauge which helps how much.... but you are building a winner of a package. Money and time well spent.
It would have been cheaper and easyer to be at the bar every night for sure !! LOL
There really is only two major changes to the engine this year, better flowing heads and the 92mm throttle body so it will be a little hard to gauge boost changes since one mod increases more air flow in for boost and the better flowing heads reduces the back pressure for less boost readings so only the Dyno will know in the end....... for the better I hope !
Actually 5 years ago. And I handily took a pic and it looks like I was reading from the directions:
LOL For sure you have to mark every bolt because you can not keep track of where you left off on the torque number or the last 90 degree turn.
Good to hear from you !!
Decided that since the bearings in the blower case are original I should change them. Major pain in the *** to get them out for what ever reason. Normally they don’t fight so much but these did. Mercedes uses some crazy injected epoxy into the two holes you see left and right of the bearing sitting up top that requires constant heat to keep soft or it returns back to its hardness again. It’s a two monkey moment as we call it in the shop,you and a buddy,so they can keep the heat going. That stuff travels down around the bearing and holds it in place.
I also decided to really clean up the inlet section and port the runners out a little more since I have gone this far,figured it cant hurt.
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