So drove around and put some miles on it and real happy about the Hellcat never skipping a beat. Idles perfect and drives almost like a stock 74mm so anyone contemplating it….go for it.
My only issue at this point are my EGT numbers. Some are out of whack by 100 -150 degrees just driving around from cylinder to cylinder so will start swapping sensors just to make sure some are not “off” from the start,but they all read correct to each other before running engine.
Also a major home run with the oil pump whine as it is almost completely gone so the WPC treatment definitely helped on the scavenge gears in the pump so hopefully it stays that way when the synthetic all is put in after break in. It always changes depending on oil type.
So drove around and put some miles on it and real happy about the Hellcat never skipping a beat. Idles perfect and drives almost like a stock 74mm so anyone contemplating it….go for it.
My only issue at this point are my EGT numbers. Some are out of whack by 100 -150 degrees just driving around from cylinder to cylinder so will start swapping sensors just to make sure some are not “off” from the start,but they all read correct to each other before running engine.
Also a major home run with the oil pump whine as it is almost completely gone so the WPC treatment definitely helped on the scavenge gears in the pump so hopefully it stays that way when the synthetic all is put in after break in. It always changes depending on oil type.
That's a good question because you can't find an answer for what it stands for and there is only one place in the USA that does it and originally they are from Japan.
So it's like shot peening but they use microscopic little stel ***** that are fired out at thousands of psi and it completely changes the surface area by compressing it. Look up WPC on google and it will bring you to the site and You Tube has plenty of videos as well. I have done it on my connecting rods and they look like they where run through a lathe or something.
It was a long shot doing it on the scavange gears of the pump but I had nothing to lose since the whine was really loud since the day I bought it and even swapped oil pumps to no avail.
Got real tired of listening to it for sure but it will always be there a little like most are.
The EGT readings are great for determining stochiametric balance. Optimal stochiometry for gasoline engines is about 15:1 up to 17:1. The larger number is the air of course. At those ratios, the combustion is the most efficient, and the exhaust gases are environmentally more friendly. The way EGT determines the best combustion conditions is at peak EGT. Peak EGT isn’t really optimal for optimum lifespan. So the balance between engine lifespan, and optimal combustion is 50 degrees(F) less than peak. It doesn’t always matter if it’s lean of peak, or rich of peak. Rich of peak has more advantages though, because lean of peak can reduce margins for detonation.
I haven’t seen EGT indicators on any model of car I have ever come across. There are 2 primary types. Collector EGT that measures exhaust temperatures after the exhaust has entered the manifold. The other is individual cylinder EGT systems. Obviously the individual system is more precise.
I am sure that a lot of the modern engines have EGT sensors, that produce an input for an engine module.
About that peening process. The way I understand that is it’s a method of work hardening the surface of the component. Work hardening is best illustrated by bending an old fashioned metal coat hanger repeatedly back and forth until the bend area becomes hard and brittle. Once it’s brittle it is very apt to cracking catastrophically.
The benefit from work hardening is that the surface can be more rigid, and less susceptible to wear and tear. Meanwhile the portion of the component under the peened surface retains enough softness to absorb vibration, and allow flexibility, thus increasing the durability, and extending the lifespan of the component.
So I lost supercharger engagement and after chaseing everything odvious it turned out to be the AIT sensor giving an "Unreadable" reading. New sensor and back to normal.
Anyone that runs into this problem check your sensor readings and go from there. The ECU probably saw something way out of limits and shut it down until cleared or corrected.
So, this is awesome.... the headers are flaking .... again!! Was poking around the EGT sensors and noticed the coating was starting to come off in a couple places right near the flange, WTF. This is the third time and two different companies, and it is still happening. Maybe next time around I will go with Jet Hot, but I am not pulling this sheet apart again since it's only been a couple weeks and clearly this metal has something odd with it who knows. I may have to acid dip them before sending them out again someday.
And they looked so good too.............
And the icing on the cake is this 92 throttle body will trip an implausible code after 50 miles just like the 82 did. Has no effect on drivability but come emissions time next year I will have to swap on the stock throttle body. Glad I made the adapter plate for this reason just in case.
For what ever reason I can not get the idle down to 550 rpm and it likes to hang around 650,not bad but the ECU see's this and doesnt like it, same deal with the 82. My tuner has said he can not adjust idle for whatever reason.
Got the idle down finally.I did the reset in Star again and did the key on,unplug throttle,plug back in and reset throttle at closing point. My throttle closed at idle percentage is .62% and is way below acceptable so fingers crossed.
On a side note my adapter plate to go back to stock throttle body worked great and there is a definite difference in low mid range from 92mm to stock I but did not run it hard. I may do a back to back Dyno pull to see what the bigger throttle does since no one has done it but I will see.
So, this is awesome.... the headers are flaking .... again!! Was poking around the EGT sensors and noticed the coating was starting to come off in a couple places right near the flange, WTF. This is the third time and two different companies, and it is still happening. Maybe next time around I will go with Jet Hot, but I am not pulling this sheet apart again since it's only been a couple weeks and clearly this metal has something odd with it who knows. I may have to acid dip them before sending them out again someday.
And they looked so good too.............
And the icing on the cake is this 92 throttle body will trip an implausible code after 50 miles just like the 82 did. Has no effect on drivability but come emissions time next year I will have to swap on the stock throttle body. Glad I made the adapter plate for this reason just in case.
For what ever reason I can not get the idle down to 550 rpm and it likes to hang around 650,not bad but the ECU see's this and doesnt like it, same deal with the 82. My tuner has said he can not adjust idle for whatever reason.
That does suck that the coating is flaking. It has to be because of prep. Maybe blast before coating? Acid dip might work also. But you would think the people doing them would know how to prep them.
Yeah I would hate to pull them off again so soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SICAMG
Got the idle down finally.I did the reset in Star again and did the key on,unplug throttle,plug back in and reset throttle at closing point. My throttle closed at idle percentage is .62% and is way below acceptable so fingers crossed.
On a side note my adapter plate to go back to stock throttle body worked great and there is a definite difference in low mid range from 92mm to stock I but did not run it hard. I may do a back to back Dyno pull to see what the bigger throttle does since no one has done it but I will see.
Cool deal on the throttle body plate and ease of swapping them out. Would love to see dyno results for sure to see what is gained from stock to 92.
I may not post a lot but I’m reading it all. Keep the posts up.
Thanks man. Yea I don't know what the deal is with the headers. They have been prepped 3 times now so you would think the stuff should stick by now with all the blasting done but who knows.
I think your right, acid dip might be the ticket so I may have to find some one at the end of the year.
Redoing the PCV system, which is a little elaborate right now and then need to do some very hard pulls to get the rings to seal up a little more. One more oil change with Driven 10w-40 break in oil and should be all set I hope. Tool steel rings are much tougher than the Plasma Moly I had so take a little longer. Plus its 25 degrees here so that's not helping my cause at all.LOL
It's odd that when you look at the part where it flaked off it is very smooth and you would think it shouldn't be.
10w-40 for break in and 10w-40 for every day. Might try the 5w-50 from Driven but have to talk to Robbin the tech guy there. He's real sharp when it comes to oil's.
Ring gap is at 25 top and 26 bottom and slight gap on top oil ring as to not flutter the oil rings when boost escapes through rings.
Oil Catch Can/Evac Set up. Air is pulled from valve covers into catch can then into intake tube. 3/4" fitting is cut on a 90 degree angle and also angled into the pipe. Far more elaborate than factory plus the Hellcat throttle body has no provision for vacuum like factory. This system has worked well for years for me and it’s amazing how much water and oil end up in the can. I just have to make better /permanent connections and she's good.
I have one, Catch Can, on my Expedition as well and same thing and have to empty it out every couple months.
Have you seen any leakage around the magnetic drain plug? What torque setting do you use to tighten it? I am probably not telling you anything new, but it is very easy to over torque a drain plug. Typically snugging the plug, and then adding no more than 1/4 turn is more than sufficient.
“Tight” has a variety of meanings. For instance, there is German torque, which is gutentite(good and tight). There is Jungle tight, which is Gorilla torque. Then there is exotic dancer tight, which is stripped.
“Tight” has a variety of meanings. For instance, there is German torque, which is gutentite(good and tight). There is Jungle tight, which is Gorilla torque. Then there is exotic dancer tight, which is stripped.
I have probably 1,000, at least ,oil changes in the last 15 years of dealer service and 20 years of small shop service and was doing so many changes I was sick of it. Never had a plug strip unless it was screwed up before I removed the plug and had to be retapped so my "Torque till tight feel" has always done right by me and I would consider that wrist tight I guess.
I always find it amazing that no matter how many times I change the oil, and it could be every 100 miles if racing, there will always be some sort of very slight magnetic dust on the magnet. Every engine I have had it's been there so they for sure do there job. Even my Crown Vic with 270,000 miles see's it. LOL
So finally got to start doing some hard red line pulls and looks like I will not be going to the dyno. My belt slip issue is the same if not worse than it was before. You can feel the car lay over when you stab the throttle and then struggles to come back. The boost line in the data log looks like crap and it peaks at 16lbs and instantly begins it's jagged downward spiral to 13 lb's with 48* outside temp. So I'm at a total loss at this point on what do so this sucks. Wish It was easy to do a 10 rib pulley set up.........
Finished up a new catch can set up. Decided to use a diesel Pro Vent 200 with the stainless filter. The hoses where a royal pain in the *** since they are 7/8” but this set up is far better at pulling any blow by that will head out the valve covers. I am pulling from three different places from the engine.
Also trying a new blower belt from a company called D&D Dura and is much different than the Gates. The groves are wider and deeper so I am hoping this is going to help being deeper into the pulley grooves for more bite.
Hoping to do a few hard runs and data logs tomorrow and get some good info to see where everything is at ,especially boost.
Rings should also be pretty well sealed up by now I hope.
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
