JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Here is the plug on the M276 engine, both NA and bi-turbo. It should be similarly located on the M278.

CaliBenzDriver

If your engine does not handle well normal oilling you can search for a cause or easily exclude yourself from test pool.
>> Dont drive - Get the oil pressure checked asap to make sure valve is not stuck on low output.

Many of us will gladly help you find out what makes an engine cough when its cold:> Start by throwing scheduled tune up parts at it before tweaking ECU software maps.

Of course THE FUEL MIXTURE IS CRAZY WILD with a tune when you keep changing engine camshaft timings with normal oil pressure. Plugged in, plugged out.... equal chaos. This drives things more nuts than necessary - Experience from other tuned members are a valid reference that tune + mod = flies!

Remember the old rule No1: if you unplug stay unplugged. It takes time for ECU to relearn the engine timings.

You rob yourself from valuable knowledge by not reading the whole thread to understand ABC's.


> Choking Tuned Cold Engine:
Try to flash stock firmware and stock solenoid to see how the engine runs stock.

It is dangerous to mess with this killer solenoid: it can get jammed with aluminum glitter... one-way tow to junkyard : watch OP video by Master engine builder TASSOS who knows extremely well what he's doing.
He officially recommends against modifying solenoid - "Ok, nothing more, nothing less!"

S-Prihadi

I like it when one speak of engine hours too.
I am on 200HR max or 6 month or 5,000KM / 3,000ish miles, whichever comes first. Usually 6 months comes first always this past 3 years.
I hardly do 5,000KM a year now.

OldManAndHisCar

Okay - Cold Start (Florida Cold)....Oil Solenoid UN-plugged.

juanmor40

Sounds great. Sweet.

On the odd engine "hiccup" when coming to idle you mentioned, it is probably best to connect the scanner before starting and monitor live data as it is warming up and it comes back to idle to see if any particular cylinder, or else shows something. If it only happens when cold, there is one shot to catch anything per start/morning.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Sounds totally normal to me. I do not see or hear anything unexpected.

Maybe provide a video with the solenoid plugged in.

OldManAndHisCar

There is a blip that my ***-sensor tells me is there more than my ears. I do not need to start that car again for a few hours (as the video ended I shut the car down). I will plug in my tester thing, it is pretty basic however. The thing with plugging it back in is that apparently it will take a few days to be the "new normal".

juanmor40

There is something minute around the 0:48-0:52 min mark, and the RPM needle stabilizes. There is also visual feedback

AMGandS1K

I too am in Florida, albeit SWFL... My cold starts are outside, our engine oil temp displayed on the dash looks about my average from this week. Your RPM gauge looked normal for a cold start and the sound was what I'd expect (although I often forget how quiet stock cars are compared to mine haha). I'd venture to say if you're *feeling* something odd, you should warm the car up, then do some Neutral and Parked revs to see if you feel that same "blip" in your butt. It could be engine mounts starting to go and not liking that specific frequency of engine vibration. Frequency is a powerful thing.

And as other have said plug your scanner in before start up and watch for anything to show up. Or you can invest a little in an OBDII scanner that connects to your phone with a logging app, which comes in useful for a lot of issue (and friends & family's issues now lol).

OldManAndHisCar

Good thing I have brand new ignition coils and a couple of brand new spark plugs laying around I will replace number 6 and see what happens tomorrow

AMGandS1K

Awesome! Glad something came up. Just cylinder 6?

OldManAndHisCar

I wonder why no CEL. I thought a misfire thew a flashing CEL

PeterUbers

definitely not always ... I've had misfires without cel (blinking or solid)

Ive also had solid OR blinking cel's due to misfires - all were coil related

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/th...long%20enough.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Depends. An occasional misfire will not throw a CEL, though it may show as Pending. For some reason, the BlueDriver scan tool will show Pending and Permanent DTCs.

mbwillgrubs

My does the same thing and sounds the same as well. There is a roughness on cold start, not a dead miss but definitely smooths out after 30 seconds or so. I don't have any codes the last time I checked. But, damn you, now I will have to check again.

CaliBenzDriver

Pretty nice cold start: appreciate how unbelievably fast the engine now goes right into 600.RPM cold idle - GOOD SIGN!
Without MOD, engine holds high RPM for a bit longer.

The ECU had to learn the extended abilities of the engine. That's is the topic here. Your engine is going up the ladder

> What is the significance of quicker cold starts:
This means your engine has enough pressure to actuate VVT on a smooth engine.
​​​​

> Fish-bite!:
A quick stored misfire is felt and recorded.

Okay your engine needs a little something to work better - Lets make that happen for you. It's almost easy

A cylinder misfiring is definitely no engine's friend active or stored are both unwanted.
It is weak performance from less-contributing cylinder. Let's find the root cause.

This MISFIRING does not mean SPARKPLUG specially a "stored" transient is 90% unlikely a poor plug.
If you trust your ignition is within service life, don't bother disturbing parts for no reasons else tune-up all 8Cyl. then done for 50kMi.
Save your efforts.

> CHECK HOW LEAN YOUR ENGINE IS?
Fixing LTFT condition will enable your ECU to make more power with balanced mixtures. That's all you need!

Overall the ECU mixture is evolving to match the engine improving abilities. This is not overnight magic. Misfiring cylinder is likely still missing compression from dirty rings. Just give it time to clean itself.

Do not expect the scanner faults to ever help you with a smart moves. Use it to read engine parameters.

To all ppl amazed by going back and forth: it's the wrong way to gain reliable performance. Being on the fence confuses the ECU learned adaptations. Don't do it.... nothing good by freaking out your ECU.


Simply fix the engine condition to resume moving up the ladder.


+++ INCENTIVES....++++
Where you're going after that is when ECU mutes the HPFP Rattlesnake.

​​​​​​This still has me seriously amazed since the first time injection played a different partition - Until then: you ain't seen nothing yet

You need to GIVE TIME to your ECU to smooth out your engine individual cylinder regimen. Once engine is smooth HPFP Valve can capture the smooth crankshaft frequency to open/close with each lobe

That's when the GDI Instant response will begins to really shine with power on lubed cool cylinders for longtime.



+++++ FACTORS INVOLVED ++++++
There are a collection of reasons working together to help or hurt the engine dynamic performance.

- This MOD is a journey made of progressive stages, once condition after another. No upgrade fees required.

(FYI: People who play with solenoid get STUCK in stage No1... go nowhere!)

- You can't skip forward:
No1 must have is sealed cylinders.

Each engine condition reaching a stage is a factor for next trek up the progress scale.

-- Ingredients are: time, viscosity, Lambda, Tensioners, ...

+++++++ OIL as a BIG FRESH TOPIC +++++++
What transitional oils are best to help seal these engines under MOD'ed conditions -

- Oil characteristics:
- I think a thiner oil helps getting passed the ring to clean all around them.
- A thicker oil is going to hold pressure better but not flow as well on both sides of rings.
- The oil detergent package is part of secret sauce, all we know is premium oils all have the best package. LOL.

This is super important and my primitive sealing method can use vast improvements.
I simply used oil recommendation JCM.
It helped lower the RPM necessary to dial my VVT.
I went from 950RPM to 750RPM. That allowed the engine to run strongly at lower RPM. Smooth predictability allows ECU to put out nore fuel on time that Lambda validate as good burns.

OldManAndHisCar

@CaliBenzDriver - Just a tad more info. I have had the solenoid disconnected for about three weeks. Since that time I also pulled the Mobile1 0-40 our and put in LiquidMoly 5-40 at the suggestion of a Mercedes Master Tech who said we do not need that light of weight in FL. I had felt that shimmy prior and did scan the car and no codes....this AM as you saw #6. My first inkling was to take a new ignition coil I have and stick it to six. The plugs are maybe maybe 5k on them (I put them in a while back). In the past I had a flashing CEL on 8 and a new coil resolved that a number of months ago.

CaliBenzDriver

Ok, I see... there's a chance your coils winding insulation has been compromised by extreme heat. Yet this is not acting out just now.
The ignition spark is practically proven good by the ECU.

Your new 5K plugs are already in great condition unless someone broke them during installation. Nothing is pointing us at bad spark.


The 5W-40 is a closer match than 0W-40 was
Wait till you see ehat it does then you're gonna want a 10 or 15w-40 to further seal rings and power up VVT actuation.

Have you seen that your clean oil stopped being burned into black tar as with stock super heat??

-- Refer to prior post to troubleshoot classic lean engine.

The long way is to change the plugs+coils because your engine needs better fuel. It already has good spark, almost guaranteed.

Your modest scanner should be perfectly capable of reading : LTFT, fuel pressures to troubleshoot your mixture.

++++ EASY PLAN B ++++

Your chassis may be qualified for a "Wait 'N See" pass because of what your engine transformations.

50% chance the lean penalty will improve as all cylinders seal up with better oiling. If not replace sensors ✌️

billvp218

this thread is now officially the one with the most replies in the history of the w212 AMG forum

PeterUbers

and the key elements can be summed up in ten critical posts, ultimately ... the journey, on the other hand, which I totally get, is all of the posts

OldManAndHisCar

Okay - Scanner on, no misfire on six - no changes what so ever to the car....

kevm14

Take a look at the misfire counter (smooth running) during that cold start. Also pull up the data PID for closed loop control. I still think it is also related to catalyst warmup.

Keep in mind stone cold starts don't have the same misfire detection criteria as other conditions.

BDC90

Cold start after sitting outside in 30 deg. for 2 hours. Apparently the oil didn't cool much from 50 deg temps inside garage. 3000ish miles since unplug.

S-Prihadi

Is this an M156 E63 or M157 E63 ?
M156 is not a Direct Injection, correct ?


Wow....Its COLD start management is very different to M276 3.0 Turbo, which is Direct Injection and MED177 ECU family, which is the same family as M278 and M157, same DI injection system too.
The higher RPM of 900, after the 1,300 RPM is non existent in the video... so I cam curious if that is a port injection cold start strategy ?

This is how long my engine maintains its higher than idle RPM at COLD start and I am at 30C / 86F

7.14 data points is 1 second worth. Below is 120 seconds worth of capture. This is from Xentry VVT logging test.


About 50 seconds is the time my engine keep its higher than idle RPM , at a COLD start.
Data points 70 to 417 approx

OldManAndHisCar

See, the problem is you are in PA and you have C as your temps....no wonder you have issues. Duh.