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The car feels great. Oil warms up way faster and so smooth. I did have an issue. It seams like the connector care out when I unplug it from the oil pressure solenoid.
Do I have anything to worry about?
You're on the right track for your journey of improvements: the smoother your engine gets, the more torque & power the ECU is going to allow.
I am not sure what connector part came out... how did that happened ?
Show us a picture when you have time.
What is your oil grade, engine type and current mileage?
Say goodbye to super heated dry cylinders that are now reliably oiled near 1500.RPM. Engine heads are going to get quieter too. As always keep an eye on that dipstick for level, color and viscosity.
Right now your tranny is as confused as ever... Give it time to relearn 1-2-3 gears while your engine cleans up.
Eventually ECU+TCU will match RPM for perfect strong shifts. Take it easy until then.
So it seem like the connector that you plug into also came out. When the regular connector is disconnect you guys have a lip still on the pump. Mine is not there. Its like a whole now
OUCH - DON'T DRIVE!
It sounds like your oil crankcase is now wide open where internal harness was attached.
Opening the engine bottom oil sump is a long tedious job...
Try to fish out the internal harness connector to seal your crankcase.
I would not let loose wiring inside the engine by simply sealing gaping hole with JB-Weld epoxy.
🤞
You're on the right track for your journey of improvements: the smoother your engine gets, the more torque & power the ECU is going to allow.
I am not sure what connector part came out... how did that happened ?
Show us a picture when you have time.
What is your oil grade, engine type and current mileage?
Say goodbye to super heated dry cylinders that are now reliably oiled near 1500.RPM. Engine heads are going to get quieter too. As always keep an eye on that dipstick for level, color and viscosity.
Right now your tranny is as confused as ever... Give it time to relearn 1-2-3 gears while your engine cleans up.
Eventually ECU+TCU will match RPM for perfect strong shifts. Take it easy until then.
I do not have this part.
Last edited by Jtaveras13; 03-13-2024 at 02:04 PM.
Keep in mind there may be a submerged harness from the block wall to the solenoid within the pump. In general, the common failure is the internal harness, not even the solenoid.
That what im thinking that maybe that piece just broke off. Im going to take my camera and get a better look at this. I drove the car today and no leaks. Thank you to everyone for helping me with this.
Hmmm. Not sure. I have to look into this. If so that would mean I have a hole there I hope that entire piece did not came out. I believe its just the part i circled.
That what im thinking that maybe that piece just broke off. Im going to take my camera and get a better look at this. I drove the car today and no leaks. Thank you to everyone for helping me with this.
Juan is spot on: the missing part is the internal harness connector - WHERE IS IT NOW ??
Show us WHAT IS OUTSIDE or WHAT PARTS came out if possible use flash light.
Make sure you don't drive without oil. The high blow-by is helping blow oil out of this open port.
[QUOTE=CaliBenzDriver;8939135]Juan is spot on: the missing part is the internal harness connector - WHERE IS IT NOW ??
Show us WHAT IS OUTSIDE or WHAT PARTS came out if possible use flash light.
Make sure you don't drive without oil. The high blow-by is helping blow oil out of this open port.[/QUOTE
I'm leaving work now to go home and check this out. fml
The Original part that have been installed and are breaking are black one. On new Cars 2023 have installed that buggy cable too. The fixed cable "grey" u have to replace and after installed you won't get code P06DA00 anymore. Mega Scammm from Mercedes
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by JettaRed
@Lotty Sorry, but my solenoid is cool as a cucumber (in the fridge) when running.
Well, I had a chance to check my dummy solenoid that I am using on my 2015 SL400 and it was too hot to touch. HOWEVER, I had been driving for 20 minutes or so and the coolant was at 199° F. My solenoid is tied to my coolant hose, which also was too hot to touch for long. I suspect the solenoid is getting heated by the coolant hose.
Juan is spot on: the missing part is the internal harness connector - WHERE IS IT NOW ??
Show us WHAT IS OUTSIDE or WHAT PARTS came out if possible use flash light.
Make sure you don't drive without oil. The high blow-by is helping blow oil out of this open port.[/QUOTE
I'm leaving work now to go home and check this out. fml
Im an idiot. When i took the clip off i didnt see the part. It looked like it was a hole there now. It looks like a small piece broke off the side. I was very uncomtable with only having a few inches to work
Well, I had a chance to check my dummy solenoid that I am using on my 2015 SL400 and it was too hot to touch. HOWEVER, I had been driving for 20 minutes or so and the coolant was at 199° F. My solenoid is tied to my coolant hose, which also was too hot to touch for long. I suspect the solenoid is getting heated by the coolant hose.
On Cooldown Car:
You don't need to drive, just turn the ignition on so the car gets power and wait few minutes.
Im an idiot. When i took the clip off i didnt see the part. It looked like it was a hole there now. It looks like a small piece broke off the side. I was very uncomtable with only having a few inches to work
Thankfully this does not look as described earlier. It looks like the engine side connector is still there, unarmed by unplugging. Good for you!
Monitor the area for active oil leaks.
Keep an eye on your engine oil dipstick, figuratively.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-13-2024 at 05:53 PM.
Well, I had a chance to check my dummy solenoid that I am using on my 2015 SL400 and it was too hot to touch. HOWEVER, I had been driving for 20 minutes or so and the coolant was at 199° F. My solenoid is tied to my coolant hose, which also was too hot to touch for long. I suspect the solenoid is getting heated by the coolant hose.
my solenoid is also zip tied to the coolant hose, are we good? Or do you think I should move it?
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
my solenoid is also zip tied to the coolant hose, are we good? Or do you think I should move it?
Yes, we are good. No, I don't think you should move it. The solenoid is usually submerged in the oil, which can exceed the coolant temperature. Normally, oil and coolant temperatures are within 10°F of each other once at normal operating temps. Often the oil temp will exceed the coolant temp.
One of the few commonly available oils in the US is Pennzoil that is API SP and 229.5. I haven't run it yet and was hoping the Molygen 5W-40 was good enough.
Kevm14, I am quite happy with the Molygen. Blackstone gave me a A on engine health, and continued use of this oil was highly recommended and I could up oil changes up to 7k if I desired. I am changing every six months, the mileage is less than 5k as I am retired and also have a Jeep WJ I enjoy too.
I did notice it is not API SP but API SN instead. But still has the MB 229.5 approval.
While we hear about heated solenoids... Do you wanna test a dual coil dummy-load to split the heat ?
Simply wire your test load in a serial circuit such that:
+12V PWM pigtail
enters into coil 1
then exit coil 1
to enter coil 2
then exit back out
to pigtail PWM return side.
(If wired in parallel, the coils would double the load current... read overload!) - You want to try serial for the purpose of splitting the 12V pulse voltage.
We don't exactly care each 12V coil is only going to see 6V and not open/close, as long as enough current load satisfies ECU threshold for "open circuit..." DTC.
Use temporary clip leads to quickly validate the ECU test results. If a solenoid code is triggered then you're back to single plus unused spare.
🤞
+++++ DIODE test for coil dummy-load users ++++
A diode is a one way short-circuit mounted backwards in parallel to prevent voltage spikes.
The car connectors are definitely polarized!
Check if your coil does include a diode or does not -
You don't want to short out pop the ECU output transistor: s'pensive mistake.
Check resistive value in both directions ... should be exactly equal without distinction ... means safe!
A significant difference would mean a diode protection need to be "reversed biased" to protect ECU instead of shorting it.
"Measure twice, cut once!":
ie. double-check polarity not to get screwed setback $$$$ by a 10˘ diode.
🤞
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 03-14-2024 at 12:06 AM.
For the pool of MOD'ers with engines that are progressing well towards "OMG condition'
I'd like to point out something for your test driving:
> Have you noticed your cold engine/tranny have more torque around 1500.RPM with COLD oil than when at operating temperature ?
The accelerator response is more solid and precise before thermostats open.
This is a PARADOX because best performance are at operating temp. It shows the engine benefits from thicker oil. In other words the engine is viscosity sensitive because the ECU is not. That's what the lack of "oil pressure sensor" does!!!
ECU works the VVT position is negatively affected by oil temperature.
Engine operating temperature is regulated closely by smart thermostat, the only control we have over our oil viscosity is the approved engine oil grade we use.
The engine responding differently hot/cold hurts a tiny bit the perfect shift points. Meaning it is our advantage to acknowledge that difference and test better oils.
Currently my engine has solid torque like a Diesel truck below 2k.RPM and power like gasoline above 3k.RPM. This squarely rest on solid timings from stiff B1 tensioner. I notice it's sloppier when hot.
+++ ROCK SOLID ACCEL +++
This is 100% from balanced mixtures based on good timings to build strong fuel maps.
Pedal is surprisingly direct at controlling output.
Separate Dissociate your appreciation of engine vs. tranny. Our target is to have the engine respond predictably so that tranny can adapt to it. Then they have a chance to synchronize for RPM MATCHED SHIFTS.
The stock ppl are missing a lot of freebee: the best-behavior of ECU-TCU: Coordinated seemless shifts.
MOD-3.0 may be needed.
"Nothing less, nothing more!" yum-yum
++++ DECONSTRUCTING SLOPPY SHIFTS +++
I want to share this because I now get amazing shifts without dealing with tranny at all.
Point being that fixing tweaking your engine right will help deliver great shifts as it did for me.
-- What are poor shifts?
Good shifts are difficult accomplishment.
Great shifts are miraculous, not so much anymore!
Poor shifts are the legacy before drive by wire.
-- ECU-TCU Relationship:
- Poor shifts are caused by ECU rendering the TCU job impossible.
- Shifting is a joint act of tango dancing of two partners. One working predictably with the other.
- Abused gearboxes are done. Don't overheat them if you can help it.
-- Poor shifts occur when :
tranny in the wrong gear range
up/down when unexpected
RPM are mismatched
(Never mind obvious... frictions, ATF viscosity, lost pressure all better be good!)
-- Why is this factory standard?
The German industry is extremely refined, having turned every stone in nearly every topic including true rocket science. The Bosch software has many ways to accomplish the same things and adapt itself. The same core code that runs Lexus like Swiss clocks also runs cars in many de-tuned modes with factory issues designed to test reliability under marginal conditions.
One thing we can hand to tranny is it can handle a lot before it has to limp-mode.
Way way back in this thread, I lost the plug on the inside of the engine cover. I made a plug for it from a 3/3-inch coolant expansion plug. No issues at all. If anyone runs into a similar issue (the plastic will not last ten years I can tell you that so expect a failure especially if you have age and miles) just search the thread and you’ll see what I did to fix. The fix is done and easily applied.
Oops! I just about had a coronary event over this one!
Boxed part from NAPA Auto Parts. About $8.
What it looks like - will not fit as delivered - the rubber and the keyed washer must be turned down to fit.
03-13-2024, 01:07 PM
