Rickman30

The crank was probably damaged in wreck or by the hack that did the original work. I've seen some really spectacular stuff being next door to a body shop and doing work for them.

The main thing is, a Mercedes Dealer did the same level of work as any Mexican VW repair...shop.

This is the level of people inhabiting MB service departments working on cars is beyond their capabilities and causing insult to injury at the customers expense.

And that's what scares me about my engine. "Take it to the dealer, they said, they know what they're doing, they said, it'll be great, they said". Making same exact noise $3700 later, as if they did nothing at all.

Want to know why Rick doesn't even consider owning an AMG, check them parts prices. My Base model is more than adequate.

CaliBenzDriver

​​​​​​
It looks like Chevy's new design decision is working out - Here is the burned pump solenoid.The amazing part is good ppl are fixing this lucky fault to regain original ( low) pressure.

Meanwhile MOD2.1 and 3.0 are being hatched.

Today for the very first time, I drove back home and MY ENGINE FAN WAS OFF !! - Never ever happened even once since new!
I have a pretty good idea what was causing that

I popped the engine hood to physically see big fan was not spinning after driving at operating temperature. Any one else would have guessed a fan problem.

Less electrical load is truly saving gasoline energy. "Regen 14.9V" is only useful on drained battery.

LUBRICATING PISTONS DOES CANCEL HOT FRICTIONS.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

@CaliBenzDriver you should get the AMG IC mod from @BenzNinja which will display the coolant, oil, and tranny temps simultaneously and you can view specific temps and not rely on anecdotal input.


AMG Instrument Cluster Display

S-Prihadi

This I been wondering. Is above IC photo from your SL400 Jet ? If so...........
Only AMG M157 engine has engine oil temperature data, because it uses the special oil level sensor which is also an engine oil temperature sensor, see post # 1,290

So , if an engine is not M157, where the hell does that engine oil temperature data come from ? Regardless the IC is converted AMG version, no sensor means no data, unless it is the
calculated data like how M276.8 or .9 ECM is doing for calculation, but then Xentry can't even see such data as no such sensor exist.

Tranny oil temp is easy, because there is a sensor for that in tranny.

BDC90

So is adding trans temp available for an older (2014) AMG ? . I am 200 miles into change from 0w-40 to 5w-40 and the time from fast idle to normal idle is about the same.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it’s from my SL400. I’m not home at the moment, but when I get back I will check for oil temp in the live data. I don’t know how it is determined, but the AMG section in the SL Operator’s Manual shows oil and tranny temp (I think). @BenzNinja is the best person to answer your questions.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

That’s a question for @BenzNinja

S-Prihadi

Oky doky, I will ask BenzNinja.

However, since I know every sensors on M276.8** , what you are seeing is a calculated data base on a temperature model made by MB

.


MB speaks of how important the oil temperature and pressure is for the VVT to work properly, yet those 2 sensors are UnObtainium grade for almost all MB engines of last 12 years.

.

BDC90

when I did the trans fluid awhile back I got the temp readout from an iCarsoft so there must be some way .

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

There probably is, I just can't confirm. I'm thinking of having the AMG menu added to my C350. If I do, I will confirm.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Very interesting. Since I can't access the Engine Module with my LAUNCH scanner other than to read and clear codes, I could not get to the live data for it. So, I used my iCarsoft scanner.





I took the picture of the iCarsoft temperature readings and immediately followed with the IC display.

105°C=221°F (coolant) and 96°C=204.8°F (oil). So, the oil temp reading matched (204.8°F vs. 205°F), while the coolant readings were off a bit. Hmmmm, wonder why?

CaliBenzDriver

We know the Coolant Temp display are doctored by the ECU.

Surya demonstrated the working of what he called the "liar gauge" or the idiot gauge because it tells stories instead of reality.

In fact this data translation is made to hide crazy stuff happening to coolant spikes with smoking oil.

So gauge display is not too useful between the calculated value and the translated one

Regardless these limitations are no problem... I use anecdotal inputs to bridge gaps. My logic is similar to the ECU firmware: I use what data are available!

extrapolated sensor data
Master Surya's WIS document above explains how the Bosch logic extrapolates numbers from limited sensor count.

You don't need to trust my word, MB firmware engineers say so themselves. Numbers are approximated and that's all right to understand the results we get.

>> Realize also that this Translation Logic Needs To Adapt To MOD Conditions... don't be surprised that everything is NOT "unplug and play".
The state of the art ECU firmware just need the right conditions to spin everything right.
​​​
I am one to say we've got what we need: coolant temp sensor. The best way to use this data.... is the way Papa Surya does it!


picture tells a thousand words: cold unsprayed oil at driving RPM... amazing?

Now do you understand how oil gets burned into vapors by dry pistons?

I wish we had a "viscosity sensor" but since viscosity is affected by so many variables, a pressure sensors would be more useful.


> GAUGE READING...
Ppl who have true OIL TEMP displayed on MOD2.1 can see oil temp quickly climbing up to coolant temp then pushing coolant further up as pistons get spray-cooled above ~1500.RPM


This instrument cluster shows you A to Z...

• the piston heat being transferred
• into engine oil by pistons squirters
• then transfered into coolant by heat exchanger
• then out through the heated-Tstat
• into big radiator
• where supersonic fan no longer needs to spin.

-- On MOD1. Oil temp only goes up above 2500.RPM.... so I researched why and came up with $5 fix to provide normal heat management.

People have been looking at these gauges, blown up engines, melted pistons, cooked CPS, black oil... and did nothing about it until Papa Surya and I started kicking the tires - The rest is history as you know it

> Whole 9-yards:
What do these have in common:

• 8/6x Piston sprayers
• 4x VVT gears
• 3x Chain tensioners
• 1x Solenoid valve

These hydraulic components rely on normal oil VISCOSITY to perform well.

The advanced dry-lubing option can now be disabled with experimental MOD2.1x.

-- It saves energy by reducing frictions and not spinning powerful fan.

-- It allows ECU to dish out massive torque with GDI multi-shots injection from 900.RPM

-- It switches extreme trapped heat with regulated engine temperatures.

-- Oil sealed pistons reduce blow-by to better than new

​​​​​

> HOW TO MIX MOD2.1x:
Get ready to get your hands dirty....
Your mix formulation (forum link) is based on your own judgement.

I suggest to play with 3 or 4kMi old oil... if you screw up, dump clean and start fresh oil.

TIP: gradually increase viscosity by 100ml steps over 500.Mi distance until engine fan stops.
​​​​​ ✌️


Samsung screen capture of formulaMELTED PISTON CROWN (Solenoid on diesel ....)

Act early.... MOD can not help damaged engines.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Wish I could read the micro-text. But i did add about 500ml to my C350 after sucking that much out with an electric fluid pump. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet to detect any differences -- it's the wife's car.

CaliBenzDriver

JR: quick... pretend you go buy some milk or bread at the store !!!


What oil base do you have:

1. mileage/color ?
2. grade ?

500ml is a big shot. It a good medicine anyway. Tranny gonna be a little weird with sudden drastic improvement but ok.

​​​​​​The accelerator is so touchy wife complains I heart her neck peeling off the green light.

MOD2.1 swaps extreme heat for extreme brakes. Super strong touchy brake pedal !!
"brake HOLD" sensing more consistent too!!
Distronic Plus accelerator/brakes now smooth.

IT'S ALL CANDY

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Mobil 1 0W40 with Cera Tek added, with maybe 700 miles. The color is light brown, probably due to the Cera Tek. I added about ½ liter of the 15W-50. This is for my M276 NA engine.

CaliBenzDriver

Great! Your 700Mi oil is in low mileage condition.

-- Go drive 25Mi around town for now to train the new base RPM parameters. Freeway possible but not part of quick retraining.

-- Notice BIG torque showing up and becoming consistent as low as 900.RPM and above

-- You'll notice Gear 1 - 2 - 3 gradually getting extended into higher RPM like normal gears.

-- Witness engine developing new torque and tranny learning to use it.

-- Let's see how soon the big fan is no longer needed with good cooling...

-- Finally pay attention to idle sound switching over to sound like GDI diesel


> How old are Tensioners, what mileage?


+++ MP3 sound file of GDI idling +++
Smoooooth flat RPM from well regulated pressures.

No butterflying around idle RPM.
No rattlesnaking sound
(muted but noisy 1x HPFP lobes, well lubed)

Thanks for BOSCH unrivaled technology.

S-Prihadi

Cali,

I have a bit of un-happy news for your engine valve train by sound of it. It is much louder than mine.

TO NOTE :

AA. I know you have more mileage than mine. Mine now only 40,000KM.

BB. I believe you drive very polite and does not do much above 3,500 RPM.
So before oil solenoid defeat, a polite driver won't get much oil towards the valve train compared to guys like me doing higher RPM for gear change,
sometimes I force it to MANUAL mode so I can maintain 4,000 RPM.

I traced your engine sound clicking frequency.
I initially thought it was the 3 fuel lobes of HP pump camshaft's, but its frequency occurrence seems to indicate valve lifters, probably exhaust ones, the ones always working the hardest.


Approx 31 HZ, that is a fast one.



.



I am comparing yours to mine at video below :
I have reduced loudness level of your audio to get near the same by VU ( volume unit ) meter to mine.




I am sure your lifter is fine in terms of its current specification, but not as quiet as mine.
If you see video time 1:25 where my engine oil has gone hot at 94C, my engine valve train is actually more quiet than at cold oil 29.7C.


.

TomZVB

Guys, I’m not sure I’d start messing around with custom making your own oil viscosity. These oils are chemically blended - this is an areas where more harm than good can happen. Sure, if you were in a pinch and changing the oil soon, I wouldn’t worry about it, but as a long term solution, I wouldn’t do it.


I have an oil change coming up and I’m leaning toward Driven DI40 because it’s all-inclusive in terms of an additive package that will help support aluminum bores, Mobil 15w50 with Ceratec isn’t out of the question either (much less expensive) and would allow me to keep one oil type/viscosity on-hand versus many (I use Mobil 15w50 in my 509 boat engines as well as my 496 Suburban).

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

@TomZVB good point. I think the problem, from what I have read, is that mixing different BRANDS is not advised (see link below). However, I may have gone too much and think I will drain a quart and add 0W-40 back in until I do another oil change with 5W-40.

https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/a/60894

Cifdig

Been using 5w50 for over 6 years now on stock and fully built. Actually 8 years, the pendemic killed my time frame. 750 plus wheel hp on stock setup. And 1,k hp daily driven. Using 3500-4k miles intervals with oil changes. I do check walls every time I change plugs just to see if anything is standing out, or if a cylinder looks on the wet side with oil blow by. Happy to report neither.
Recently on my cousins cls 63 big turbo built engine, he was running 0-40 mobile. We noticed he would have oil consumption requiring a quart of oil between oil changes and when driven hard sometimes more. Compressor blades had some oil residue which is common with blow by from hot thin oil that breaks down easy flowing through the pcv. But since switching to 5w50. These issues have almost stopped. I say almost because it's slightly consuming oil but it's not showing other then slightly lower level. I think it's being used during hard WOT pulls. Also After cleaning compressor blades we now keep an eye on them and see no oil residue buildup, no cold start oil blow by, oil temps much more stable and so far it's been 4 oil changes since switching to 5w50 and no additional oil has been needed between oil changes. My point is you don't need to give it much thought to step away from 0w40.

CaliBenzDriver

Master Surya, thank you for analyzing the frequency distribution

My special diesel idle sounds pretty weird like something is knocking until the ECU switches in and out of this injection mode.

That's why I posted it because the new normal is radically different than usual. Not a problem, quite the opposite: hope your engine will switch into that mode. You'll recognize it.

At cold startup my engine sounds just like yours then switches after being fully warmed up. After that it can restart warm with this injection mode.

My ECU started allowing this after MOD2.0. I attribute this to tight tensioners allowing stable timings.

CaliBenzDriver

I see... it's your call to try and thin out your mix or to stick with it until ECU learns to work with it.

You added a single shot of 5% and now realize how transformative it is. Your ECU/TCU has no knowledge of engine oil pressure or viscosity.

From MOD1 to MOD2.1 I recommend multiple smaller shots such as: 200ml + 100ml then perhaps 100ml once or twice as needed.

I can not imagine 100% of 15w-50 being compatible with my MOD engines.

In stock limited pressure engines perhaps 15w50 works because the higher viscosity helps build at low RPM but when the stock pump switches pressure, the ECU is still going to freak out.

The pressure switching is not accounted by software and that's one thing MOD1 fixes: smooth pressure ramp without any switching step.


I don't know that Mob1. 15w50 has approved additive package for MB engines, so personally I boost "approved base oil" to be safe.

TomZVB

Would love for someone to explain the additive package and specifications of a 229.5 approved oil. I keep looking and find no real explanation.

For direct injection I know we want oils that will not create an easier ash. But what else? My boat doesn’t care. And neither does my Suburban. Neither did my Hellcat.

As I’ve said before my main concern is longevity especially if beat on hard. Don’t care about a warranty - and if it breaks, I’ll build another one (but I don’t see the oil spec contributing to damage).

TomZVB

And to note… everything that I have found an out 229.5 has to adhere to stringent standards of fuel economy. Funny thing is that 600 hp/700 lbs ft and fuel economy do not mix - at least to me (and as I said a page or two back, it is pretty amazing that MB was able to pull it off - but also at the expense of longevity).

juanmor40

Not sure if you have seen the following:
https://360.lubrizol.com/Specificati...20base%20oils.

The variant 229.51/52 are variations from there, but at least is an entry point for further research. MB229.5 -> European specifications + Daimler extensions (I guess that is where the unknown comes in)