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I'm using Motul 5W40 since the last change + Ceratec.
how old is your Motul 5w40... this is a great oil with true w40 viscosity BUT after a while it does require a viscosity boost.
The burnt oil smell is from dry-pistons vaporizing oil above 400°F back into your intake plenum.
Your observation is a call for MOD-2.1: a small viscosity bump.
Given enough pressure, your pistons will get spray cooled at normal driving RPM instead of dry-lubed.
The old-car smell is directly associated with oil consumption. When the engine quit drinking intake oil the lbda and cats clean up to work better.
I am not sure what burning Ceratec particles does to cats
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 04-25-2024 at 06:15 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by PekkaH
Im not sure is this all ready mention here, but tuner can take that silent code off after disconnecting the solenoid. My tuner did this today to my car. And also he did make sure that silent code is not trying to give alert also for some other issue, not only the solenoid. And it didn't. So now no code for me.
That is interesting. How did he do it? I had asked a couple of sources if it could be done and never got a definitive answer. I was thinking that in the ECU code, you might be able to set the deactivation speed to something like 50 rpm versus the 3500 rpm it is currently set for. Do you know his approach? What scanner did he use to confirm that it didn't return?
I know with my 2014 C350 I have a persistent ESP code (C221500) that never shows up using XENTRY, but always shows up using LAUNCH or iCarsoft. I think it's one of those codes to be ignored. Therefore, XENTRY has been "coded" not to report it.
That is interesting. How did he do it? I had asked a couple of sources if it could be done and never got a definitive answer. I was thinking that in the ECU code, you might be able to set the deactivation speed to something like 50 rpm versus the 3500 rpm it is currently set for. Do you know his approach? What scanner did he use to confirm that it didn't return?
I know with my 2014 C350 I have a persistent ESP code (C221500) that never shows up using XENTRY, but always shows up using LAUNCH or iCarsoft. I think it's one of those codes to be ignored. Therefore, XENTRY has been "coded" not to report it.
I don't know how he did it, can't help you with that, sorry. He did it at same time when he tuned my car.
-- How can so very little viscosity boost make any difference at all ?
We are talking about 100 to 3, 4 or 500ml according to current oil fresh/old/grade conditions. Use your favorite viscosity booster, go easy.
We are talking about nudging viscosity such that engine has just enough pressure to spray-cool pistons at driving RPM - "Nothing less, nothing more!" -Tasos
We want to cross the fine line between the two ranges (1500 ~ 2000) and (2000 ~ 2500) RPM's.
Earlier we saw what happens to viscosity as heat increases.
We saw that oil qualities are preserved only near 200°F.
-- On MOD-1 when pistons are cooled above 2500.RPM oil gets OVERHEATED and drops viscosity drops regardless of solenoid - That decreases pressure to raises spray RPM to trap MORE HEAT.
We need to be able to provide enough viscosity to hold spray-RPM near 1500.RPM so viscosity does not run-away on us.
More is not better - This does not mean we want to spray at idle either and open the "60Psi relief" at 2500Rpm... NOPE!
Stability is the key factor for the ECU control. Our ECU calculations are not compliant with multiple viscosities for one RPM. Not many things we can do about that limitation besides staying within controlled range.
The laggy stock design entirely IGNORES THAT with rollercoaster pressures...
With MOD-2.1 the ECU/TCU performance are not affected by heat. Gas pedal is no longer spongy/laggy at operating temperature. That why we want it.
> MORE FREE EASY FUN:
Go hookup your scanner...
Simply clear active faults.
This will trigger ECU relearn of something you're going to enjoy driving.
> TEMP Mgt is KEY:
I have been on the fence to replace my 60kMi coolant Tstat to smooth out temps.
We know the engine temp is mapped so it's not always what we've come to expect. In search for stable viscosity, I am interested in smooth manageable temp transitions... not jerky too hot then too cold reactions.
Coolant temp map
Temps are very well monitored by ECU to flag a stuck Tstat... much like Lambdas: LOL !!
> Failure mode:
I believe before Tstat gets terminally stuck, it gradually stops moving smoothly in relation to heat. I am seeing some of that.
Given what amazing abuse our cooling system had to endure under MOD-0, I am going to replace cheap part to see what a fresh Tstat does to hold hot/cold performance.
I am expecting a more responsive smooth heat control around operating temp.
Tranny benefit ALL of this temp control for the same viscosity reason. Thin ATF already
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 04-26-2024 at 06:05 PM.
Nice, did you unplug it from the top or the bottom, I am still struggling both ways, I understand you have a GLC 43 right? Do you mind sharing what tools and process you used to get this done?
The other forum members are very successful and helpful guiding me and suggesting me to try different things. I am planning to tackle this again this weekend or the following with the new pointers from them but I am all ears if you have other recommendations, thank you.
I have a sedan 2017 C 43 though so the ground clearance alone makes a difference, that I understand.
Nice, did you unplug it from the top or the bottom, I am still struggling both ways, I understand you have a GLC 43 right? Do you mind sharing what tools and process you used to get this done?
The other forum members are very successful and helpful guiding me and suggesting me to try different things. I am planning to tackle this again this weekend or the following with the new pointers from them but I am all ears if you have other recommendations, thank you.
I have a sedan 2017 C 43 though so the ground clearance alone makes a difference, that I understand.
I ended up going at it from underneath because I couldn’t get the clip to budge. I used a small flat headed screwdriver to release the clip and then used two hands: one to press the clip and the other to wiggle the connection off. It took a bit of effort initially. Hope that helps!
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by ninobrn99
I ended up going at it from underneath because I couldn’t get the clip to budge. I used a small flat headed screwdriver to release the clip and then used two hands: one to press the clip and the other to wiggle the connection off. It took a bit of effort initially. Hope that helps!
Nino
Thank you for your reply, that was my problem : (, from the top my arm was too short from the bottom my hand is too fat to fit in between the subframe then there are all those coolant hoses in the way, there was one for the turbo which is metal in silver that can't be bent, the coolant hoses at least you can bend it slightly, I can only get one hand in, I can't get another hand inside and what is worse is I broke the silver locking/pin so now I have to use a tool to lift the latch from the back of the connector. The latch as you can see in the middle of this picture: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...uloAWT0M4Teg&s and as you already know, the silver locking pin that you slide to release is what holds the latch in place from tilting.
Either way, I am happy for you and glad you got it unplugged, hope you enjoy the mod and the extra oiling and cooling and prolonged engine life it potentially brings. Not to mention the supposed to be smoother transmission and better power at low RPMs alongside with many many other benefits mentioned in the thread I can't remember off the top of my head. Looking forward to hearing about your impressions in this thread when you drive it more.
Last edited by W205C43PFL; 04-27-2024 at 09:19 AM.
Thank you for your reply, that was my problem : (, from the top my arm was too short from the bottom my hand is too fat to fit in between the subframe then there are all those coolant hoses in the way, there was one for the turbo which is metal in silver that can't be bent, the coolant hoses at least you can bend it slightly, I can only get one hand in, I can't get another hand inside and what is worse is I broke the silver locking/pin so now I have to use a tool to lift the latch from the back of the connector. The latch as you can see in the middle of this picture: https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...uloAWT0M4Teg&s and as you already know, the silver locking pin that you slide to release is what holds the latch in place from tilting.
Either way, I am happy for you and glad you got it unplugged, hope you enjoy the mod and the extra oiling and cooling and prolonged engine life it potentially brings. Not to mention the supposed to be smoother transmission and better power at low RPMs alongside with many many other benefits mentioned in the thread I can't remember off the top of my head. Looking forward to hearing about your impressions in this thread when you drive it more.
Maybe sliding a flat bit in there on its own and then pushing that to help get the plug off? Does that make sense? I figure that the hex shape will naturally create an angle when you put the bit in and give you some leverage to push it “down”.
I took it out for a 25 minute drive. Temps got up to 104°C at their peak. Throttle response is feeling much better and smoother. Granted, yesterday I also swapped out a couple of other vacuum related parts because last week I noticed I wasn’t getting any boost regardless of being at speed or from a stop. Dynamic mode didn’t help either. All seems better now. Lots of variables.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
OK, here is another view. This is on my M276 3.5L NA engine. The coolant hose is what blocks easy access to the connector when plugged into the wiring harness to the solenoid. If you disconnect the coolant hose, you will lose all of your coolant, so you may want to drain it first from the radiator. This should give you clear access to the plug, even on the bi-turbo engine with the intercooler in place.
If you go this route, you will need to replace the coolant (duh!) and use a vacuum refill kit like this one. (You can shop around and find it a little cheaper.) It may seem like a frivolous expense since you will not use it often, but if you have more than one car, it will pay for itself in no time at all. Having the right tool for the job is always cheaper than it seems.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by ninobrn99
Maybe sliding a flat bit in there on its own and then pushing that to help get the plug off? Does that make sense? I figure that the hex shape will naturally create an angle when you put the bit in and give you some leverage to push it “down”.
I took it out for a 25 minute drive. Temps got up to 104°C at their peak. Throttle response is feeling much better and smoother. Granted, yesterday I also swapped out a couple of other vacuum related parts because last week I noticed I wasn’t getting any boost regardless of being at speed or from a stop. Dynamic mode didn’t help either. All seems better now. Lots of variables.
I hope you manage to get it sorted!
Thanks for your suggestion, I tried that as well but it doesn't work because there is no room at the back for the flat head to rotate to lift the latch, even if I use one with a thin handle one. That is when the hook tools comes in play but then it fails again because it kept catching on the clip but the moment I rotate, it slips. I tried several hook tools. I am all ears if you have other things to suggest : )
Very nice, I am glad you are enjoying the few of the many many benefits unplugging this annoying solenoid brings, there are many more benefits waiting for you to discover, as forum member CaliBenzDriver mentioned, once the TCU learns your driving habits in 2000 miles with proper oiling and the fact that the transmissions knows when to shift instead of guessing when to shift and finally talking correctly (in sync with) to the ECU (due to this mod) things will just improve further!
I been following this thread since it first created and the original thread (https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...en-passed.html) As for this thread, I wasn't able to read every post, I am taking my time to read again and half way in the thread out of 65 pages before I am caught up again) that was performed on our engines, the M276. I really really appreciate and words can't express how much I appreciate all the efforts of those forum members had contributed to this project. A big thank you to them! There were many research done from who contributed to this project, lots of graphs, calculations and measuring, hours and wrenching and statistics and even experimenting on their own car to prove that the benefits of this mod is well worth it. All that hard work for us forum members to enjoy the mod!
Thank you to you as well (the bolded part), I will try this again and certainly won't give up.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by JettaRed
OK, here is another view. This is on my M276 3.5L NA engine. The coolant hose is what blocks easy access to the connector when plugged into the wiring harness to the solenoid. If you disconnect the coolant hose, you will lose all of your coolant, so you may want to drain it first from the radiator. This should give you clear access to the plug, even on the bi-turbo engine with the intercooler in place.
If you go this route, you will need to replace the coolant (duh!) and use a vacuum refill kit like this one. (You can shop around and find it a little cheaper.) It may seem like a frivolous expense since you will not use it often, but if you have more than one car, it will pay for itself in no time at all. Having the right tool for the job is always cheaper than it seems.
Thank you thank you! This will have to do if I still can't get this off. I am weighing the options, either doing this or just cutting it from the ECU end like another forum member suggested if I still can't get it off as the last resort. I guess finding an excuse to changing coolant isn't a bad idea as well : )
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Here's a pic on my M276 bi-turbo. While the connector is not directly behind the coolant hose, removing or disconnecting the hose will give you easier access.
Went for a third drive (30 minutes) today to try on settling things out. While I noticed an improvement in throttle response, boost, and steady temps the shifts are still working themselves out. Where I noticed a massive difference was in Comfort. Normally, it’s sluggish AF after my tune. There was never any response until there was loads of throttle applied. Not the case anymore. It’s so much more responsive and the shifts are SMOOTH! I’m planning a transmission fluid change soon so I’m hoping that’ll only make things better.
04-25-2024, 04:36 PM
just ignore my post, nothing important 
