Wow Check engine light
09-07-2008, 11:28 PM
#76
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02 C320 Sedan
I agree! I'm glad Kris was able to follow trough and fix the problem. I think this is part of what these forums should be for. Today I help you, maybe tomorrow you can help me. ALL of us are MB enthusiasts so we got to keep em' on the road! Would give my best $.02 to anyone here anytime!
Keep rolling Bro and Thank You for the help as well!
Keep rolling Bro and Thank You for the help as well!
Thank you guys im so happy you guys made me love my baby again!!!
I told my girlfriend the truth today that i love my car more then her...
But i made it up 2 her.
09-08-2008, 12:39 AM
#77
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That's cuz cars dont fight back.
LOL.
Been in the same boat before, LOL. Be careful! I'm single for a reason.
hahaha.
09-08-2008, 04:20 PM
#78
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09-08-2008, 06:50 PM
#79
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09-08-2008, 08:45 PM
#80
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Now I have a question for you. What code scanner did you buy? Did you need to get a conversion cable for it to fit the MB round diagnostic plug?
09-08-2008, 09:25 PM
#81
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02 C320 Sedan
It fits perfectly in the slot under the dash. And if it worked for me. Then im sure it would work for others. I bought it at kragen Auto Parts
12-04-2008, 04:31 PM
#82
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C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan
If you just want to pull the codes, go to Autozone and rent a scanner. They will charge you full price to borrow it, then credit full price back to you when you return it. When they've been slow, I've also been able to talk them into letting me just use it in the parking lot (I live in a small town where everone knows everyone).
Cars are smart enough these days that if the engine starts to overheat or something else is going on, the computer will put the vehicle into 'limp mode'. You might start it up again after things have cooled down to see if there's still a CEL (if not, the code should still be stored). Of course, there had to be a problem to trigger this event in the first place ... but you could just be low on coolant or oil. Good Luck!!
Cars are smart enough these days that if the engine starts to overheat or something else is going on, the computer will put the vehicle into 'limp mode'. You might start it up again after things have cooled down to see if there's still a CEL (if not, the code should still be stored). Of course, there had to be a problem to trigger this event in the first place ... but you could just be low on coolant or oil. Good Luck!!
12-05-2008, 03:13 AM
#83
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03 W203, 13 E350, 13 W204, 14 C218
You guys can talk about Krisv420 on all the other threads all you want but i take my hat off to him on this one for following up and fixing the problem. i know i would have said FUKK it a long time ago haha. I cant beleive i read all these post...i learned something though.
02-27-2009, 02:44 AM
#84
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Just wanted to post an FYI for anyone who may read this. Autozone will no longer check codes for free in California. Apparently there was this big legal battle between a bunch of mechanics and the auto parts stores because people were getting their codes read then fixing the problems at home, thus costing the mechanics potential business.
02-27-2009, 07:10 AM
#85
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Everybody in Cali - off to Harbor Freight for a $39 one of these for you glove box. How ridiculous!
05-15-2009, 11:44 PM
#86
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2002 C240
Hello, I'm new to this forum.
I have a 2002 C240 with the following symtoms:
rough idle (lumpy) , it goes away after you engage drive AND accelerate.
1.- I replaced the spark plugs with Bosh Platinum +4 = no improvement.
2.- I replaced the spark plug wires with Bremi Made in Germany = no more lumpy idle, BUT:
When I accelerate the car hard/fast, from the beginning I get full power, then past 4 to 5k rpm's, then the check engine light comes on and the car starts to run on 3 cylinders (it feels that way)
I connected the OBDII reader, the following codes came up: P0302, P0305, and P0300 (ramdom cylinder misfire) and the other two makes a refference to cylinder 2 and 5.
Here's the wierd thing: I turn off the engine and restart and the car run perfect again...??? Almost like a Windows PC when restarting...
I've cleaned the MAF as well, but no help.
The pictures of the plugs posted on this thread look IDENTICAL to my spark plugs and wires - the rust, oil and all. However, the valve cover gasket was replaced a year ago so could oil from before. Aside from that oil, everywhere esle is dry and with no signs of any oil leaks.
I also pushed the wires hard in to the plugs to make sure they made full contact. I even added some electrical grease to make a better connection.
Anyway, that's the problem I'm having and I really don't have any answer for it.
Any help will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Auteck
I have a 2002 C240 with the following symtoms:
rough idle (lumpy) , it goes away after you engage drive AND accelerate.
1.- I replaced the spark plugs with Bosh Platinum +4 = no improvement.
2.- I replaced the spark plug wires with Bremi Made in Germany = no more lumpy idle, BUT:
When I accelerate the car hard/fast, from the beginning I get full power, then past 4 to 5k rpm's, then the check engine light comes on and the car starts to run on 3 cylinders (it feels that way)
I connected the OBDII reader, the following codes came up: P0302, P0305, and P0300 (ramdom cylinder misfire) and the other two makes a refference to cylinder 2 and 5.
Here's the wierd thing: I turn off the engine and restart and the car run perfect again...??? Almost like a Windows PC when restarting...
I've cleaned the MAF as well, but no help.
The pictures of the plugs posted on this thread look IDENTICAL to my spark plugs and wires - the rust, oil and all. However, the valve cover gasket was replaced a year ago so could oil from before. Aside from that oil, everywhere esle is dry and with no signs of any oil leaks.
I also pushed the wires hard in to the plugs to make sure they made full contact. I even added some electrical grease to make a better connection.
Anyway, that's the problem I'm having and I really don't have any answer for it.
Any help will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Auteck
05-16-2009, 03:56 AM
#87
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02 C320 Sedan
Hello, I'm new to this forum.
I have a 2002 C240 with the following symtoms:
rough idle (lumpy) , it goes away after you engage drive AND accelerate.
1.- I replaced the spark plugs with Bosh Platinum +4 = no improvement.
2.- I replaced the spark plug wires with Bremi Made in Germany = no more lumpy idle, BUT:
When I accelerate the car hard/fast, from the beginning I get full power, then past 4 to 5k rpm's, then the check engine light comes on and the car starts to run on 3 cylinders (it feels that way)
I connected the OBDII reader, the following codes came up: P0302, P0305, and P0300 (ramdom cylinder misfire) and the other two makes a refference to cylinder 2 and 5.
Here's the wierd thing: I turn off the engine and restart and the car run perfect again...??? Almost like a Windows PC when restarting...
I've cleaned the MAF as well, but no help.
The pictures of the plugs posted on this thread look IDENTICAL to my spark plugs and wires - the rust, oil and all. However, the valve cover gasket was replaced a year ago so could oil from before. Aside from that oil, everywhere esle is dry and with no signs of any oil leaks.
I also pushed the wires hard in to the plugs to make sure they made full contact. I even added some electrical grease to make a better connection.
Anyway, that's the problem I'm having and I really don't have any answer for it.
Any help will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Auteck
I have a 2002 C240 with the following symtoms:
rough idle (lumpy) , it goes away after you engage drive AND accelerate.
1.- I replaced the spark plugs with Bosh Platinum +4 = no improvement.
2.- I replaced the spark plug wires with Bremi Made in Germany = no more lumpy idle, BUT:
When I accelerate the car hard/fast, from the beginning I get full power, then past 4 to 5k rpm's, then the check engine light comes on and the car starts to run on 3 cylinders (it feels that way)
I connected the OBDII reader, the following codes came up: P0302, P0305, and P0300 (ramdom cylinder misfire) and the other two makes a refference to cylinder 2 and 5.
Here's the wierd thing: I turn off the engine and restart and the car run perfect again...??? Almost like a Windows PC when restarting...
I've cleaned the MAF as well, but no help.
The pictures of the plugs posted on this thread look IDENTICAL to my spark plugs and wires - the rust, oil and all. However, the valve cover gasket was replaced a year ago so could oil from before. Aside from that oil, everywhere esle is dry and with no signs of any oil leaks.
I also pushed the wires hard in to the plugs to make sure they made full contact. I even added some electrical grease to make a better connection.
Anyway, that's the problem I'm having and I really don't have any answer for it.
Any help will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Auteck
P0305
P0300
Your getting almost the same codes as i was getting.. Now i replaced all my wires for 270 dollars.
What you can do is Cylinder 2 and 5 are misfiring so take the whole coil pack N wires from Cylinder 2 and swap it with NUMBER 1 // Take 1 and put it on number 2
Take your coil Pack N Wires from Cylinder 5 and swap it with cylinder 4 // Take your pack from 4 and put it on 5
Reset CODES!! make sure you reset twice just to be safe!
Start your car. let it idle for a min. so oil can go through the motor.. ( Don't rev the motor to hard when its cold )
Or you can take a 2 min drive your choice.
Your cel should come back on but it could read
P0301
P0304
P0300
If it does your coil packs are bad because you already said you replaced all your wires. How many miles are on your whip
05-16-2009, 04:04 AM
#88
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Yes - I would suspect coil packs. If not coil packs then O2 sensors but you should get O2 codes.
Change coilpacks.
Change coilpacks.
05-16-2009, 11:13 AM
#89
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2002 C240
Guys, thank you for the taking the time to reply.
Before replacing the wires, the car was running fine with no check engine light, the only problem was a lumpy idle.
After replacing the wires, the lumpy idle is gone, but a new problem emerged. I'm thinking I might have conected one of 2 cables in the wrong coil pack...???
Last night I unplugged one of the spark plug cables and started the car. It idled perfect. I think what makes the diagnosis more complicated is the "twin spark" design because all cylinders are still getting a least 1 spark if the other one failed.
I'm going to swap the coils later to see what kind of readings I get, I'll let you know.
Thanks again.
Before replacing the wires, the car was running fine with no check engine light, the only problem was a lumpy idle.
After replacing the wires, the lumpy idle is gone, but a new problem emerged. I'm thinking I might have conected one of 2 cables in the wrong coil pack...???
Last night I unplugged one of the spark plug cables and started the car. It idled perfect. I think what makes the diagnosis more complicated is the "twin spark" design because all cylinders are still getting a least 1 spark if the other one failed.
I'm going to swap the coils later to see what kind of readings I get, I'll let you know.
Thanks again.
05-16-2009, 09:22 PM
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2002 C240
I havent' swap the coils yet, but I did find cylinder # 3 with inverted wires. I went ahead and placed A on coil with A on cylinder, and B on coil with B on cylinder.
I drove to Autozone and on the way there I accelerated to full speed and CEL came on again, but now is flashed a few times (maybe 6 or 7 times) and then it stayed on. When I got back home, I parked in the garage, turn it off, turn it on again, and the CEL is gone now...???
I'm going to check the other 3 cylinders to see if the wires match the letters on the coil packs. BTW, is that the correct order?
I drove to Autozone and on the way there I accelerated to full speed and CEL came on again, but now is flashed a few times (maybe 6 or 7 times) and then it stayed on. When I got back home, I parked in the garage, turn it off, turn it on again, and the CEL is gone now...???
I'm going to check the other 3 cylinders to see if the wires match the letters on the coil packs. BTW, is that the correct order?
05-17-2009, 12:07 AM
#93
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02 C320 Sedan
If you could take a picture of your setup.. Just so i can get an idea whats going on.. Ill take my car apart real quick and take some pictures.
What you need to do is take the whole coil pack / and the two wires that come off of it and switch it with a different cylinder.. It really shouldn't matter which order they are in.. I know there are some cables that are shorter then the others.. but those are made for cylinder 6 and 3 i believe
Let me go look at my car real quick and get back at yah
What you need to do is take the whole coil pack / and the two wires that come off of it and switch it with a different cylinder.. It really shouldn't matter which order they are in.. I know there are some cables that are shorter then the others.. but those are made for cylinder 6 and 3 i believe
Let me go look at my car real quick and get back at yah
05-17-2009, 08:16 PM
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2002 C240
Kris, thanks for the offer. I might take you up on that, but first let me share with you the latest findings:
I swaped the coils and here are the readings: P0302, P0305, and P0300.
Same as before, I think the coils are fine and something is wrong with the wires.
I'm going to put the old wires back to see what happens, if that fixes the problem then I have defective wires or maybe I'm not pushing the leads all the way in (it's hard to do due to limited space) and are not making good contact...???
I swaped the coils and here are the readings: P0302, P0305, and P0300.
Same as before, I think the coils are fine and something is wrong with the wires.
I'm going to put the old wires back to see what happens, if that fixes the problem then I have defective wires or maybe I'm not pushing the leads all the way in (it's hard to do due to limited space) and are not making good contact...???
05-18-2009, 11:15 PM
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2002 C240
Ok, I found the problem!!
The Bremi wires were defective. I put the old factory wires (Bosch MB) wires and wallah - no more engine light or hesitation.
I'm sending the Bremi wires back, and I've already ordered the Bosch replacement for $210.00 from Fine Line Europarts in Miami, FL. The local dealer (MB of Cary in NC) wanted $597.00 plus tax!!!
Thanks everyone.
The Bremi wires were defective. I put the old factory wires (Bosch MB) wires and wallah - no more engine light or hesitation.
I'm sending the Bremi wires back, and I've already ordered the Bosch replacement for $210.00 from Fine Line Europarts in Miami, FL. The local dealer (MB of Cary in NC) wanted $597.00 plus tax!!!
Thanks everyone.
05-19-2009, 01:48 AM
#96
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02 C320 Sedan
Ok, I found the problem!!
The Bremi wires were defective. I put the old factory wires (Bosch MB) wires and wallah - no more engine light or hesitation.
I'm sending the Bremi wires back, and I've already ordered the Bosch replacement for $210.00 from Fine Line Europarts in Miami, FL. The local dealer (MB of Cary in NC) wanted $597.00 plus tax!!!
Thanks everyone.
The Bremi wires were defective. I put the old factory wires (Bosch MB) wires and wallah - no more engine light or hesitation.
I'm sending the Bremi wires back, and I've already ordered the Bosch replacement for $210.00 from Fine Line Europarts in Miami, FL. The local dealer (MB of Cary in NC) wanted $597.00 plus tax!!!
Thanks everyone.
Congrats man keep on rolling!
05-19-2009, 02:09 AM
#97
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm sorry, we're talking plug wires right?
I mean the last set I bought (Bosch) were like $20 for a 4 cyl.
wow...thats alot of change....
and if 210 wasn't bad enough the dealer wanted...
whhhhhaaaaattttt?
Another reason to love the M111 !!! No plug wires!
The coil packs sit directly on the top of the spark plugs at $40 each.
Unfortunately the heat kills them, and
when one goes out, usually around 50-70K miles. the car runs like a lawnmower.
Definitely keep one in the trunk.
Anyway, good lesson learned.
New parts aren't alway good.
I mean the last set I bought (Bosch) were like $20 for a 4 cyl.
wow...thats alot of change....
and if 210 wasn't bad enough the dealer wanted...
whhhhhaaaaattttt?
Another reason to love the M111 !!! No plug wires!
The coil packs sit directly on the top of the spark plugs at $40 each.
Unfortunately the heat kills them, and
when one goes out, usually around 50-70K miles. the car runs like a lawnmower.
Definitely keep one in the trunk.
Anyway, good lesson learned.
New parts aren't alway good.
Ok, I found the problem!!
The Bremi wires were defective. I put the old factory wires (Bosch MB) wires and wallah - no more engine light or hesitation.
I'm sending the Bremi wires back, and I've already ordered the Bosch replacement for $210.00 from Fine Line Europarts in Miami, FL. The local dealer (MB of Cary in NC) wanted $597.00 plus tax!!!
Thanks everyone.
The Bremi wires were defective. I put the old factory wires (Bosch MB) wires and wallah - no more engine light or hesitation.
I'm sending the Bremi wires back, and I've already ordered the Bosch replacement for $210.00 from Fine Line Europarts in Miami, FL. The local dealer (MB of Cary in NC) wanted $597.00 plus tax!!!
Thanks everyone.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 05-19-2009 at 02:18 AM.
05-19-2009, 08:10 AM
#99
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2002 C240
I paid $180.00 plus shipping for the Bremi wires (made in Germany) I wouldn't call them cheap exactly. However, I tend to trust almost any product that comes from Germany (not anymore)
The wires did not look cheap to me, actually the opposite, they look like good German quality. What really got me was that the new wires made the lumpy idle disappeared, so it didn't occur to me that they could be bad.
Lesson learned for sure.
The wires did not look cheap to me, actually the opposite, they look like good German quality. What really got me was that the new wires made the lumpy idle disappeared, so it didn't occur to me that they could be bad.
Lesson learned for sure.
05-27-2009, 07:01 AM
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c32
I'm actually having the same problem now with my car. It just happened 4 hours ago out of nowhere when i decided to go out. My Check engine light just came on and tHe car makes a "putt putt" sound when i put it into D and when i step on the gas the car barely accelerates. The power to my car is like half of what it is like what Kris stated in previous post. I'm gonna try to get the codes out tmrw but i'm not sure if I should drive to see my mechanic. I have no mechanical experience but hopefully someone can help me with that once i get the codes since I dont want to pay an arm and leg to bring it to the dealer. BTw my car is 02 c240 w/ 69,000kms
