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Hi all, Brand new to this site. Appreciate in advance everyones feedback and guidance. I have a 2015 C400 55kmiles. I need front brakes and I'm looking to change myself. Just wondering if there is a way to tell ahead of dismantling everything if I would need to change the rotors as well. Would love to save some time/money and simply change the pads only but looking for guidance.. Thanks all!
From forum member BFGSLKMan. However as per the comments there his Brembo brakes and rotors lasted 10k miles and he had to replace with ATE brakes again later. He also says the brembos accelerated his Wheel Bearing failure (another vid in his playlist)
I’d say Stick with genuine MB or ATE for peace of mind. I’ve done genuine MB rotors and ATE pads on mine.
Hi all, Brand new to this site. Appreciate in advance everyones feedback and guidance. I have a 2015 C400 55kmiles. I need front brakes and I'm looking to change myself. Just wondering if there is a way to tell ahead of dismantling everything if I would need to change the rotors as well. Would love to save some time/money and simply change the pads only but looking for guidance.. Thanks all!
Rotors and pads should always be done together.
On the C400 fronts you will see a small dimple on the face (at the end of drilled holes, every other pattern), if that is worn to nearly flush, that is a good indicator the rotors are at their min life. I run EBC yellow pads and OE rotors and get consistently 20k out of them. Rotors are always at min when the pads are done.
Rotors and pads should always be done together.
On the C400 fronts you will see a small dimple on the face (at the end of drilled holes, every other pattern), if that is worn to nearly flush, that is a good indicator the rotors are at their min life. I run EBC yellow pads and OE rotors and get consistently 20k out of them. Rotors are always at min when the pads are done.
Rotors and pads should always be done together.
On the C400 fronts you will see a small dimple on the face (at the end of drilled holes, every other pattern), if that is worn to nearly flush, that is a good indicator the rotors are at their min life. I run EBC yellow pads and OE rotors and get consistently 20k out of them. Rotors are always at min when the pads are done.
Hey Matthew - again first time working on this car as it was always under warranty.. So do I need special jack pads to insert into the jack points below? Then, where can I jack the car in order to place jack stands at this point so I can work under the car?
Appreciate everyone's replies but want to learn the right way to do it.
Hey Matthew - again first time working on this car as it was always under warranty.. So do I need special jack pads to insert into the jack points below? Then, where can I jack the car in order to place jack stands at this point so I can work under the car?
Appreciate everyone's replies but want to learn the right way to do it.
I was intrigued about the jack pads, and a quick search led me to PowerFlex in The Netherlands (link is to their English version).
No idea about shipping to the UK however - I can say from multiple experiences that getting goods online from the UK is either no longer offered, or with additional charges and local taxes depending on the supplier. To Belgium anyway.
I was intrigued about the jack pads, and a quick search led me to PowerFlex in The Netherlands (link is to their English version).
No idea about shipping to the UK however - I can say from multiple experiences that getting goods online from the UK is either no longer offered, or with additional charges and local taxes depending on the supplier. To Belgium anyway.
Could also consider Redstuff, forum members like that stuff, low dust and not as soft as oem pads.
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